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A51007 A new voyage to Italy with a description of the chief towns, churches, tombs, libraries, palaces, statues, and antiquities of that country : together with useful instructions for those who shall travel thither / by Maximilian Mission ; done into English and adorned with figures.; Nouveau voyage d'Italie. English Misson, Maximilien, 1650?-1722. 1695 (1695) Wing M2253; ESTC R28829 405,658 759

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went also to the Church of the Holy Cross principally to see the Tomb of Michael Angelo which is certainly a very considerable Monument tho' in my opinion not altogether suitable to the Merit of so great a person In the Chapel belonging to the Family of the Zanchini in the same Church we observ'd on the Altar a Picture by Angelo Bronzini in which Christ is represented delivering the Souls of the Fathers among whom there are many Female Spirits that appear too gay and airy for an Altar-piece And even some say That she who bears the Name of Eve is the true Resemblance of the Painter's Mistriss They add also that the Figure of a Man at the right corner of the Picture below looking stedfastly on the pretended Eve is Bronzini's own Phiz This puts me in mind of Pinturicchio who in the Vatican painted Pope Alexander the Sixth prostrate at the Feet of Julia Farnese under pretext of making him adore the Virgin Among the holy Rarities we observ'd in the Churches besides the Rods of Moses and Aaron which I mention'd before I shall only name the Hood St. Francis wore when he was stigmatiz'd which is to be seen in the Church of All-Saints Two of Judas's thirty pieces of Silver which are preserv'd in the Annunei●●● and the Crucifix that spoke to St. Andrew●●Vrsina which is in the Church of the Carmelites The Monks of St. Mark make excellent Balsams and prepare all manner of Perfumes we bought some of 'em and had sometimes the pleasure to walk in their Cloysters and odoriferous Gardens where we breath'd nothing but Oranges and Jesmins But the truth is there is not any part about Florence that is not altogether charming The Great Duke has several fine Houses of which we only saw Poggio Imperiale and Pratinola These are very pleasant places and I may even venture to say they have Beauties that are not common But the magnificency of Gardens and Waterworks is advanc'd to such a heighth in France that the best way to save the Credit of Frescati and Pratinola is to pass over in silence all their petty Wonders that were formerly so highly extoll'd We visited also the Arsenal and the Citadel of St. John Baptist which is a strong place and kept in good order But the two Forts of Belvedere and St. Miniato are in a manner wholly neglected The Great Duke has diverse Nurseries for several sorts of Animals Villani relates In the Hospital ad Scalas there is the Tomb and Epitaph of a human Monster who had two Heads and four Hands on one Body This double man nam'd Peter and Paul had different Affections One of the Heads wept while the other laugh'd and slept while his Companion was awake This Monster liv'd Twenty years and Twenty days Schrader That in the year 1331 two young Lions were cubb'd at Florence who liv'd to grow great The same Author writes That at another time a Lion made his escape out of his Hole and terrified the whole City that having met a young Child whom he lifted up between his Paws without hurting it the astonish'd Mother ran with Cries and Tears to the ravenous Animal who looking stedfastly upon her restor'd the Child without offering the least Violence to either of ' em I must not conclude this Letter without mentioning those Stones found on the Mountains near Florence which being saw'd thro' the middle and afterwards polish'd some of 'em represent several sorts of Trees and others are mark'd with the Figures of Towns and ruin'd Castles Kircher calls the former Dendrites from the Images of Trees that appear on 'em and the same Author makes several curious Remarks on this occasion which I will not insist upon in this place since doubtless you remember 'em as well as I. There is one thing more which I must not forget to tell you for tho' Florence is certainly one of the finest Cities in the World and has the advantage of a most delicious situation yet it must appear a very sad and melancholy place to those who are accustom'd to enjoy the Pleasures of Society Sir D. who you know has resided here for several years is not able to express his uneasiness under the intolerable Constraint and eternal Ceremonies of this place and particularly exclaims against the Invisibility of the beautiful Sex and indeed these Customs can never be endur'd by any but such as are accustom'd to 'em from their Infancy I am SIR Your c. Florence May 23 16●● LETTER XXVIII SIR WE could not find one Litter at Florence to carry us to Bologna I know not by what Accident the whole Country was cover'd with a Deluge of Monks who took up all the easie Carriages We had two days Journey to make thro' a very rough and mountainous Country 't is true 't is not impassable in a Calash but we should have been oftentimes forc'd to alight and walk afoot and therefore we resolv'd to make use of Horses The Way between Florence and Bologna is a perpetual Chain of the Apennin Mountains the highest we met with in our passage is call'd Monte Juovo The Country generally speaking is barren and desart only the Valleys of * On the third of July 1642 this little Town was destroy'd by an Earthquake Schrad Scarperia and † Fiorenzola was built by the Florentins An. 1332. Villani writes That they laid the Foundations of it under the Ascendant of the Sign Leo that it might become a potent and durable City But he adds That these Precautions were very unsuccessful Some think this is the Fidentia of the Ancients Fiorenzola deserve a somewhat better character the first of these places is famous for Cutler's Work where for five or six pence you may buy a Knife with a dozen of Blades to one Handle and you may have some of all prices 'T is observ'd that towards the Village of Pietra-mala the Air sparkles sometimes during the night A little on this side between Pietra-mala and Loyano at the Village of Scari calassino are the limits of Tuscany the Great Duke of Tuscany's Arms are on one side of a Post and the Pope's on the other From the top of the last Hills which end at Bologna we discover'd the Sea on our right hand and directly opposite to us we had a full view of the vast and admirable Plain of Lombardy which spreads its self along the Po between the Alps and Apennine Hills the surface of the Sea is every where spherical and therefore we can see but a little part of it at once but Lombardy being exactly level discovers a prodigious extent of Land especially if it be view'd from a rising Ground The Apennin sinks by degrees into little fertile Hills BOLOGNA the Fat. as it approaches Bologna which is * On the Via Aemilia seated at the foot of the Hills and opening of the plain Country to take a full prospect of it you must go up to the Convent of St. Michael
name of Wolf which it still retains John Pic de Mirandole II. hath written that a Woman of his Country named Dorothy brought twenty Children into the World at two Births nine at one and eleven at the other Albert the Great speaks of a German Woman who was brought to Bed of one hundred and fifty Children It would be no hard matter to produce a number of the like Examples the Fourth Earl of Holland You have heard what hath been said of this Lady that having reproached a Beggar-Woman for having too many Children the poor Creature in answer wished her as many as there were days in the Year which that Year accordingly happened for the Countess was brought to Bed of three hundred sixty five Children who were all Christned and the same day buried in the Church of Losdun This History is to be seen a little more at large in a great Picture on the sides whereof the two Basins are fixed We must not forget that the Boys were named John and the Girls Elizabeth Mark Cremer relates of a Polonian Lady the Wife of Count Virboslaus who in sequel of such an Imprecation was brought to Bed of thirty six Children I am loath so soon to part with the Hague which without contradiction is one of the most pleasant Places in the World but I must say something of Leyden and Haerlem before I finish my Letter But think not that when you leave the Hague and come to Leyden you fall into a desart Country Every thing hath its value and that of Leyden is not small it is true all the Cities of Holland are fair to amazement And we cannot praise one enough without saying so much as must leave us no expressions for the other Nevertheless I should be glad to be able to give you some new Idea of the Beauties of Leyden LEYDEN This City hath not so great a number of Coaches as are seen at the Hague nor so much noisie business as Rotterdam But perhaps its quiet is far more charming It is a great City but repose Rules there and in it you enjoy all the sweets of a Country Life It s little disturbance allows it an extraordinary Neatness Nothing comes near that of its Houses and we may compare the Streets to so many Alleys of a well-adorned Garden Yet we must freely confess that the Inhabitants of Leyden would willingly consent that their Pavement should be less clean and that they endured a little more trouble on condition they could be Masters of a good Haven I have heard Projects have been contrived about it But it 's said that their Land lies so low that they dare not give the Sea a Passage So that the Woollen-Manufacture makes the greatest Trade of this City You know Leyden is very * Some believe that the Town is a work of the Romons Others attribute it to the Saxons but Jo. Scaliger pretends it was made by the Earls not above four or five hundred Years ago ancient and there are still found some Marks of her Antiquity But that which renders it most Famous is her † The number of Scholars is fifteen hundred or thereabouts The Vniversity hath divers Privileges University They commonly lead the Strangers to the Physick-School and in the Anatomy-Hall you may see a great number of Skeletons of Men and Beasts Many natural Rareties and other Curiosities as of Plants Fruits Animals Arms strange Habits Pictures Mummies curious Works Urns Images c. I fear you would incline to be incredulous of the Story of a Prussian Peasant which is there Painted He had swallowed a very large Knife So that they were forced to cut open his Stomach to get it out after which as is said he lived eight Years In the midst of the Hall is an unfortunate Thief whom they derided to extremity after they had Hanged him They fixed his Skeleton to a Gibbet upon that of an Oxe because he had been a Cow-stealer they made another Shoes of his own Skin and a Shirt to another of his own Bowels The Physick-Garden is not far from hence A great number of Rareties are still to be seen in the Gallery of this Garden and in the Cabinet called the Indian-Cabinet to which this Gallery leads I remember I observed amongst other things an Ape and a Cat which were produced with * There are many flying Cats in the Province of Malabar Tassoni Wings The hand of a Mermaid A Stare with long Ears a Vegetable Priapus which is a most curious Plant A Monster which issued out of a Hens Egg. A Piece of Money of Card or Paper made at Leyden when it was Besieged by the Spaniards in 1574. And a Serpent brought from Surinam on whose Skin are several natural Figures which much resemble some Arabick Characters I make you this last Observation because your Tutor very much admires this little wonder of Nature But indeed to speak freely I find nothing singular in this no more than in the Greek Letters which form as some thought the turnings and windings of a Maze There is so universal a diversity in all things in the World that it is easie to find the like of the first Figure which presents it self if we would give our selves the trouble of a search The greatest part of Animals Insects and other things are hanged up in Vials fill'd with Spirits of Wine whereby they are preserved from Corruption Going out hence we were to see the great Church which is a vast Pile and afterwards we took Boat for Haerlem But before we proceed on our Voyage I must needs give you some account of the unfortunate destiny of the Rhine of which there are some small remains at Leyden Other Rivers increase their course and their glory at the rate they proceed but this so great and famous River becomes nothing and is utterly lost in the Harbour After it hath been constrained to divide it self at Meeting with the Skenk Fort where one half of its Waters take the name of Wahal the Yssel robs it * It is to be observed that the branch of the Rhine which takes to the right a little above Arnheim and carries the name of the Yssel is not properly the Yssel It is a Channel which Drusus digg'd and brought near to a place now called Doesbourg to make a communication at this place between the Waters of the Rhine and the Yssel of the other half a little above Arnheim Yet it goes on to that City though much weakned and at seven or eight Leagues from thence is again oblig'd to separate at the little City of Dorstadt It s principal Branch there takes a new Name and is called the Leck and the poor little stripp'd Rivulet which escaped and turns to the Right retains still its name of Rhine and passeth on to Utrecht where it hath a fourth Division The Vecht breaks off at that place and takes its course to the North And the little thred of Water which is