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A75794 The ingenious and diverting letters of the Lady -- travels into Spain. Describing the devotions, nunneries, humours, customs, laws, militia, trade, diet, and recreations of that people. : intermixt with great variety of modern adventures, and surprising accidents: being the truest and best remarks extant on that court and countrey.; Relation du voyage d'Espagne. English Aulnoy, Madame d' (Marie-Catherine), 1650 or 51-1705. 1697 (1697) Wing A4217C; ESTC R223570 271,209 292

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People thought the Baiting fine they carried these two unfortunate Lovers to her unhappy Father's House they both desired to be in the same Chamber and though they had but a little time to live yet beg'd the Favour they might be married accordingly they were married and since they could not live together yet at least were they buried together in one and the same Grave The Story has mightily increased the Aversion I had already conceived against these sort of Feasts and I told Don Ferdinand so after I had thank'd him for his pains in relating it to me Hitherto I have said nothing to you concerning the Spanish Language in which I am endeavouring to make some Progress It pleases me extreamly it is expressive noble and grave Love finds it commodious for its work and can play the fool prettily enough in it The Courtiers speak more concisely than others they make use of such abstracted Comparisons and Metaphors that unless one is us'd to hear them half their meaning is lost I have learnt several Languages or at least understand the first Rudiments of them but yet in my mind it is only our own which exceeds the Spanish I come just now from seeing Ten Gallies which are arriv'd this is somewhat strange in a City that is Eighty Leagues from the Sea but these are Land Gallies for if there be Sea-horses and Dogs why not Land ones They are shap'd like a Chariot but four times longer and have six Wheels three on a side and do not go much slower than a Chariot the upper part is round and is very like a Gally they are covered with Canvas and may contain forty Persons there one sleeps and dresses victuals indeed 't is a Moving-house they put eighteen or twenty Horses to draw it the Machine is so long that it cannot be turn'd but in a field they come usually from Gallicia and Manca the country of the brave Don Quixot they set out eight ten or twelve in a Company to be helpful to one another in case of need For when one overturns it makes a great havock and the best that can happen is a broken Arm or Leg there must be above a hundred to raise it up again In it there is carried all sorts of Provisions for the Country through which they pass is so very barren that on Mountains which are fourscore Leagues broad the biggest tree one meets with is a little wild Tyme there 's in 't neither Inn nor Inn-keepers you sleep in the Gally and 't is a miserable Country for Travellers Monsieur Mollini the Popes Nuncio consecrated the Patriarch of the Indies on Trinity Sunday and the King was there I saw him come in he had a Black Suit and a gold coloured Silk Belt on and little Pearls were set round the flowers his hat was so broad which they never cock here that the Brims laid upon his shoulders and lookt ill I observed that during the Ceremony he eat of something which was held to him in a Paper they told me it was either Leeks or Shallots of which he eats very often I was too far off to see him well he did not return to Buenretiro because of Corpus Christi-day at which Ceremony he would assist In coming out of the Church I knew a French Gentleman whose Name is Juncas he is of Burdeaux where I saw him I ask'd him how long he had been here he told me but a little while and that his first Business had been to have seen me had he not been engag'd at Bayon not to lose a minute's time in the search of a very wicked Fellow which was supposed to be hid at Madrid That it was not the Curiosity to see the Patriarch of the Indies consecrated which drew him to the Hieronimites otherwise the Daughters of the Conception but that having desired to speak with one of the Nuns he was told that he could not see her till the King was gone He added that this was one of the handsomest Women in the World and hath been the cause of a great unhappiness in the Family of Monsieur De Lande I remember to have seen her as I have gone by and intreated him to tell me the matter It is says he too long and melancholy a Mischance to relate presently but if you will see the young Nun I speak of I am persuaded she 'll not be unpleasant to you I willingly accepted his Offer because I have so often been told that they have so much more wit in Monasteries then elsewhere in the world We went into a Parlour which had three such terrible Iron-doors with spikes as made me wonder How is this said I It has been told me that the Nuns in this Country are very amorous but I cannot be persuaded that Love is bold enough to venture over these long Spikes and through these little holes where one must undoubtedly perish You are deceived Madam cri'd Juncas at the Appearances of things if the Lady which is coming can spare me so much time I 'll presently tell you what I learnt of a friend of mine a Spaniard the first Journey I made hither But at the very instant Donna Isidora came into the Parlour I found her much handsomer than I had fancy'd her in my own Mind to be Monsieur De Juncas told her that I was a French Lady which had a great mind to be acquainted with her upon his report of her Merits She thankt me in a very modest manner and afterwards told us that it was very true that the Wretch after whom Enquiry was made had been lately at Madrid but that she was certain he was not now there and that he had even had the Impudence to write to her by the hands of a Man where he lodg'd that the Letter was brought to her after his Departure and that she would not receive it It seems to me said I interrupting of her that he could not be taken supposing he were yet here Sometimes says Donna Isidora Permission is obtain'd from the King There are certain Crimes for which there is no Sanctuary and that is one of them She fell a weeping notwithstanding all her endeavours to hinder her tears and added that thanks be to Heaven she could not reproach her self with any thing in the late Business but yet she could not forbear grieving extreamly that she had been the cause of it We talk'd together a good while longer and I was as much charm'd with her Wit as with her Beauty Afterwards I withdrew I am absolutly yours most dear Cousin be throughly persuaded of it From Madrid this 29 of May 1679. LETTER XI ONE must love you as mightily as I do Dear Cousin to resolve to write to you in a Season when the Weather is so excessive hot Whatever has been told me and whatever I could imagine of it is nothing in comparison to what I now feel To defend my self from the heat I leave open all my Windows all night long
for me yet Honour and Friendship with-hold me from making the least Advantage of it What shall I do then O Heavens What shall I do I flatter'd my self that Absence would Cure me Alas this is a Remedy which I have fruitlesly tried I have never cast mine Eyes on her Picture but have found my self more in Love and more Miserable than when I saw her every day I must obey her she commands my Return she desires to see me and she cannot be ignorant of my Passion When I took my Leave of her my Eyes declared to her the Secret of my Heart And when I call to mind what I saw in hers all my Reflections then are to no purpose for I resolve rather to die at her Feet than to live remote from her He parted without any delay and without taking leave of his Friends He left a Gentleman to Excuse him towards them and to order his Affairs He was in such great haste to see the Marchioness that he used such Diligence to be with her that no body but he could have done In arriving at Cagliary Capital of Sardagne he understood that the Marquess and his Wife were at a stately Country-house where the Vice-Roy was gone to give them a Visit with all his Court He learnt moreover that the Marquess de Barbaran prepared for him a great Feast where there were to be held Justs or Turnaments after the Ancient Manner of the Mores He was the Defendant and was to maintain That a Husband beloved is Happier than a Lover Several Gentlemen that were not of this Opinion were preparing themselves to go and dispute the Prize which the Marchioness at the Vice-Queen's Intreaty was to give to the Conquerour 'T was a Scarf embroidered with her own Hands wrought with Cyphers No one was to appear but maskt and disguised to the end all might be freer and more gallant Don Lewis had a secret Despight in comprehending the Marquess so well satisfied He is belov'd said he I cannot but look on him as my Rival and as an Happy Rival but we must endeavour to disturb his Happiness in triumphing over his vain Glory Having formed this Design he would not appear in Town he caus'd to be made a Suit of strip'd Green Satin embroidered with Gold and all his Liveries were of the same Colour to denote his new hopes When he entred into the Lists every body had their Eyes on him his Magnificence and his Air gave Emulation to the Cavaliers and great Curiosities to the Ladies The Marchioness felt a secret Emotion of which she could not discover the Cause He was placed very near the Balcony where she sate with the Vice-Queen but there was no Lady there which did not lose all her Lustre near that of the Marchioness her youthful Air which exceeded not eighteen Years her lovely white and red Cheeks her Eyes so sweet and graceful her Scarlet and little Mouth agreeable Smiles and her Shape which surpast the Fairest made her the Admiration of all the World Don Lewis was so ravish'd in seeing her so charming and to observe yet in her Countenance a languishing sorrowful Air that he flattered himself to have therein a part and this was the first Moment wherein he thought himself Happy When his turn came he ran against the Marquess and smote him so dexterously that he got the Advantage all along of him so that in a word he gain'd the Prize with a general Applause and with every one's good-liking He threw himself at the Marchioness's Feet to receive it at her Hands he altered the Tone of his Voice and speaking to her with his Mask on low enough not to be heard but only by her Divine Person said he to her be pleas'd to observe what Fortune decides in favour of Lovers He dar'd not say more to her and without knowing him she gave him the Prize with this natural Grace with which all her Actions were accompanied He suddenly withdrew himself for fear of being known for this might have been an occasion of Quarrel between the Marquess and him and without doubt he would not have easily pardon'd the Victory he obtain'd over him This oblig'd him to keep himself still conceal'd for some Days The Voice-Roy and his Lady return'd to Cagliary and the Marquess and Marchioness accompanied them thither with the whole Court Don Lewis then shew'd himself he pretended he just then arriv'd and made as if he knew not what had past in the Field The Marquess de Barbaran was transported with Joy in seeing him and Absence had not at all altered the Affection he had for this dear Relation He had no difficult task to find a favourable moment wherein to entertain his amiable Marchioness he had as much liberty in their Lodgings as in his own and you may well judge Madam that he forgot not to mention the Prize he had receiv'd from her fair Hands How wretched am I said he to her that you did not know me Alas Madam I flattered my self that by some secret Pre-sentiments you would learn that no one but I could sustain with such Passion the Cause of Lovers against Husbands No my Lord said she to him with an Angry and Disdainful Air to take away all Hope from him I could never have imagin'd that you could have been Patron of so foul a Cause and I could not have believ'd you could have taken such strong Engagements at Naples that you should come as far as Sardagne to Triumph over a Friend who maintain'd my Interests as well as his own I shall die with Regret Madam said Don Lewis if I have displeas'd you in what I have done and were you more favourably disposed and I might dare to make you my Confident it would be no hard matter for me to perswade you that it is not at Naples I have left the Object of my Vows The Marchioness apprehending lest he should speak more than she was willing to hear and appear livelily toucht with the Reproach she made him she put on a more pleasing Countenance and turning the Conversation into a Tone of Raillery answer'd him He took too seriously what she had said to him He dared not make use of this occasion to declare his Love to her for though he lov'd her above all things yet he respected her no less When he had left her he began to blame himself for his Fearfulness Shall I said he always suffer without seeking any Remedy It was some time before he could meet with a favourable occasion because the Marchioness studiously avoided him but being come one Night where she was he found her alone in an inward Room lying on a Bed in a most lovely manner and most becoming Vndress her Hair being fastned with Knots of Diamonds hung carelesly about her Breasts The Trouble she felt in seeing Don Lewis appear'd on her Countenance and rendred her yet more lovely He drew near her with an Awful and respectful Air fell down on his Knees by
obstinate humour he pretends that the King of Portugal has usurp'd the Crown from his Family and therefore when he speaks of him he never calls him any thing but Duke de Bragance in the mean while this Man has forty thousand Crowns a year in Portugal of which he does not enjoy a farthing because he will not submit to kiss the King's hand nor to do him homage The King of Portugal hath sent him word that he will dispense with his coming himself provided he will send in his stead one of his Sons either the eldest or the youngest which he will and that he will then let him receive his Rents and moreover will pay him all the Arrears which amount to an immense Sum. The Duke d'Avero will not so much as hear it mention'd He says that seeing he has lost the Crown it would be a shame for forty thousand Crowns a year to submit to the Usurper that the greater evil takes away the sense of the lesser that the Glory the King would receive from his Homage would exceed the profit he gets from his Revenue and that he would have cause to reproach him for having done an honour to him which was not his due The last I reserve for you is the Prince Destillano he hath Places and Commissions to dispose of at the Contratraction in Sevile to the value of fourscore thousand Livres a year He had rather lose them than so much as set his hand to the necessary dispatches saying It is not agreeble to the Generosity of such a Cavallero as he is to trouble himself to sign his Name for so small a matter for you must know that these fourscore thousand Livers are not in one Article it may be there is above thirty and when his Secretary presents to him a dispatch or grant of a Place worth four or five thousand Livres he will refuse to sign it and alledges his Quality always saying Esto es una Mineria that is it is but a Trifle The King however is not so nice in the matter for he fills up the Places for him and receives the profit to himself You 'll say now that the Spaniards are Fools with this their fantastick Grandeur and perhaps you are in the right but for my part and I think I know 'em pretty well I am not of that Opinion yet nevertheless I 'll own that whatever difference can be found in comparing the Spaniards and the French it must be to our advantage but it does not seem fit for me to meddle in determining the matter for my Interest is too much concern'd to let me judge impartially but yet I am perswaded that there are very few rational Persons who would not make the same Judgment There are fewer Strangers that come to Madrid than to any City in the World and they have reason for unless they have somebody to procure them Lodging in some private House they 'll run the hazard of being very ill lodg'd and the Spaniards are not very ready to offer their Houses to any body because of their Wives of whom they are extream jealous I do not know that in all this City there 's any more than two Inns whereof at one of them they eat after the French mode and when these are full which they are very quickly being very little one knows not what to do add to this That there 's no conveniency for passing too and fro in the Town Hackney or hyr'd Coaches are scarce enough but one may have as many Chairs as one will yet it is seldom that Men are carry'd in them unless they be very old or infirm But after all why should Strangers come to Madrid That which is finest and the most amiable is always hid I mean the Women there 's no conversing with them those Women that may be seen are such dangerous Creatures for a Man's Health that it must be a great Curiosity indeed that a Man can resolve to satisfie at so much risque yet in spight of all this the only Pleasure and the sole Enjoyment of the Spaniards is to contract some League even Youths of Quality that are rich begin at the Age of twelve or thirteen years to entertain a Concubine-Mistress which they call Amancebade for whom they neglect their Studies and make away with whatever they can catch up in their Father's House but 't is not long before those Creatures give them cause to repent of their Folly But that which is terrible is That there are few Persons in this Country either of one or t'other Sex and even of those whose Quality distinguishes them that are free from that cursed Disease their Children either bring it into the World with them from their Mother's Womb or suck it from the Nurse a Virgin may justly be suspected to have it and they are hardly perswaded to be cur'd of it they are so certain of falling again into the same Condition But doubtless this Disease is not so dangerous in Spain as in other Countries for they still preserve their Hair very fine and their Teeth very good At Court and amongst the Women of the highest Quality they discourse of it as they do of a Fever or the Meagrim and they all bear the Distemper patiently without so much as troubling themselves one minute about it As they know not but that the most vertuous Women and the youngest Child may have it so they never let blood in the Arm but always in the Foot they 'll let a Child three Weeks old blood in the Foot and this is so constant a Custom amongst them that unless it be some very able Surgeon they know not how to let blood in the Arm. I was indispos'd and was forc'd to make use of the French Ambassador's valet de Chambre to let me blood in the Arm. By all that I have told you it is easie to judge that this is the Nuptial present which a Spaniard makes to his Wife and that though they marry they do not quit their Mistresses be they never so dangerous Every time these Mistresses are let blood their Gallants are oblig'd to give them a compleat new suit of Apparel and yet you must observe they wear ten or twelve Petticoats at a time so that this causes no ordinary Expence The Marquess de Liche understanding that his Mistress was just let blood and so could not tarry till the Tailor made her a suit which he intended for her he sent her one that was just brought home for the Marchioness his Lady who is extream beautiful It is a common saying with him That to be the happiest Man he would only wish a Mistress as handsom as his Wife The great Lords which return very rich from their Governments whether for the most part they go poor enough and where they pillage and extort all they can because they are but for five years time do not lay out their Money when they come home in the purchase of Lands they keep it in
Events of things although they may seem to be alike and in the same Circumstances and that what without the imputation of rashness might have been undertaken 120 years ago under a flourishing Reign would be impudent to practise now under a Reign that is far less so but a vanity that is natural to them hinders them from seeing that Providence sometimes permits Empires as well as particular Families to have their Revolutions and Periods The Spaniards believe themselves to be just the same People and in the same Circumstances they ever were but though I never knew their Ancestors yet I dare say they deceive themselves But not to make any farther Reflexions which perhaps are too serious and high for me I will tell you that here 's a general rejoycing at Madrid for the arrival of the Flota from the Indies As 't is not their humour here to treasure up Wealth so this prodigious quantity of Silver which comes all at a lump is spread over all the World One would think that these immense Summs cost nothing and that it is Money which chance sent them Hereupon the great Lords summon their Creditors and pay them with a profuseness which yet without lying has something in 't that is both noble and very generous for there are but few Countries where Liberality is so natural as 't is in this and I must also add that they are patient even to admiration They have been known to endure most long and toilsome Sieges in which besides the Fatigues of War they had nothing to support them but Bread made of rotten Corn and stinking Water for their Drink and yet there are no Men in the World more nice about good Water I say notwithstanding all this and that they have been expos'd to the Severities of the Weather were half naked and had hard Lodging yet in spight of all these things they have been found more brave and couragious than when they enjoy'd Plenty and Prosperity It is true that that Temperance which is so natural to them is a mighty help to them to endure hunger when they are forc'd to it they eat very little and scarcely will they drink any Wine The Custom they have of eating all alone contributes something to make them so frugal for indeed neither their Wives nor their Children ever eat with them The Master has his Table to himself and the Mistress with her Children sit on the Floor upon a Carpet after the Turkish and Moorish way They seldom or never invite their Friends to feast together so that they are not guilty of any excess Upon this account it is their saying That they only eat to live whereas there are People which only live to eat Nevertheless there are some rational People which find this affectation too great and as they admit of little familiarity in Conversation so they perpetually live at a distance and as 't were in Ceremony with one another without enjoying that freedom which makes that true Union and produces that desirable openness of Heart This great Retirement gives them up to a thousand Illusions which they call Philosophy it makes them singular dull fantastick melancholy and jealous whereas if they govern'd themselves otherwise there 's nothing they would not be capable of since they have a wonderful vigour of Mind an excellent Memory good Sense a solid Judgment and great Patience than which there needs no more to make a Man wise to grow in Perfection to be agreeable in Conversation and to distinguish himself from the most polite Nation But they are so far from being what naturally they might be though at never so little pains that they affect a certain Indolency which they call greatness of Mind they neglect their most important business and the advancement of their Fortunes Provision for the future gives them not the least disturbance the only matter they are not indifferent in is Jealousie they improve that to the utmost the bare suspicion is enough to make them stab their Wife or their Mistress Their Passion of Love is always furious and yet the Women please themselves in it they say they would not for all the mischief that may befall them have them less sensible of their unfaithfulness that their desperate Temper is a certain proof of a true Passion and that they themselves are not more moderate when they are in Love They leave nothing unattempted to be reveng'd of those they love if they forsake them without cause so that these sort of amorous Engagements have commonly a fatal end For instance not long since a Woman of Quality who had cause to complain of her Gallant contriv'd to get him into a House where she commanded and after she had sufficiently reproach'd him against which he did but weakly defend himself for he was guilty she presented to him a Ponyard and a Cup of poyson'd Chocolate leaving him only the liberty which sort of Death he would choose He did not waste one minute to move her pitty he very well saw that in this Place she was the strongest so that he tamely drank off the Chocolate without leaving a drop After he had drunk it says he to her it had been better if you had put a little more Sugar in 't for the Poyson made it very bitter remember to do so the next time you prepare another He was immediately seiz'd with Convulsions it was very violent Poyson and kill'd him in an hours time and for all this Lady still lov'd him passionately yet she had the barbarity not to stir from him till he was dead The Venetian Ambassador who is a very well accomplish'd Man being lately at home they brought him word that a Lady cover'd with a Mantle desir'd to speak with him and that she hid her self so close they could not possibly see what she was she had with her two Gentlemen Ushers and a considerable Attendance He invited her to his Chamber of Audience and she desir'd he would cause every body to go out When she was alone with him she unveil'd her self and appear'd to him extream handsom I am of an Illustrious Family says she to him my Name is Donna Blanca de Gusman I have despis'd all the Laws of Decency in Favour of that Passion I have for you I came to declare it to you my Lord and to tell you that I must needs remain here this Night From such an impudent Speech the Ambassador could not in the least doubt that this was some Tilt that had borrow'd a great Name to draw him into some Snare but yet with abundance of kindness he told her that till now he had never thought himself unhappy in the Service of the Republick that he could wish he were not an Ambassador that so he might embrace the Favour she offer'd him but that being in such a Station there was little likelihood that he could give Entertainment to a Person of her Eminent Quality that this might bring him into great trouble and therefore
shall be fixt upon the Altar and the Dominicans only shall remain upon the Theater and spend part of the Night in Singing Psalms and as soon as day breaks they shall celebrate several Masses upon the Altar The King the Queen and the Queen-Mother and all the Ladies must be in their Balconies about seven a Clock in the Morning at eight the Procession shall begin to march as it did the day before by the company of Charcoal-men who shall place themselves on the left hand of the King's Balcony the right shall be for his Guards Afterwards several Men shall bear certain Past-board Effigies as big as Life some of them representing those that dy'd in Prison whose Bones shall also be carry'd in Coffers with Flames painted round them and the rest shall represent those who have escap'd and who have been condemn'd for Contumacy These Figures shall be placed at one end of the Theater After that their Sentance shall be read and they shall be executed But I should tell ye added he That the Supream Council of the Inquisition is more absolute than all the others It is believ'd that the King himself has not Power to release those which shall be accus'd before it because this Tribunal acknowledges the Pope only to be above it and that there has been a time when upon some occasions the King's Power was found too weak to contend with that of the Inquisition Don Diego Sarmiento is Inquisitor General He is a mighty honest and good Man and is about threescore Years of age The King nominates the President of the Inquisition and his Holiness confirms him But as for the Inquisitors the President proposes them to the King and after he has approv'd of them he then puts them in their Places This Tribunal takes Cognizance of every thing concerning the Faith and it is absolutely invested both with the Pope's and and the King's Authority there 's no appealing from its Judgment and the two and twenty Tribunals of the Inquisition which are in all the Estates of Spain and which depend upon this at Madrid every Month render an Account to it of their Finances and Revenues and every Year of their Causes and Criminals But those of the Indies and the other distant Places only give an Account at the end of every Year As to the Places of these inferior Tribunals they are fill'd by the General Inquisitors with the Approbation of the Counsellors It would be pretty difficult to be able precisely to reckon up the number of the Officers which belong to the Inquisition for in Spain alone there 's above two and twenty thousand Familiars of the Holy Office They are call'd by this Name because they are as 't were Spies scatter'd up and down every where which are continually giving true or false Informations to the Inquisition upon which those are seiz'd and taken up which they accuse Whilst with the greatest Attention I was listening to Don Fernand the Marchioness De Palacios interrupted us to let us know that we were come near Tolleda and that certain old Ruines of an ancient Castle which we saw upon our left hand were those of an enchanted Palace I seem'd to Don Fernand to doubt of what she affirm'd upon which he said you may think what you please but certain it is that there 's for it a very ancient Tradition in this Country and moreover they pretend that there is a Cave shut up and a Prophesie which threaten'd Spain with the greatest Miseries when ever this Cave was open'd Every body terrify'd with this threat had no mind to draw upon themselves the sad Effects so that this place did for several Ages remain very close But Don-Rodrigue the King less credulous or more curious caus'd it to be open'd upon which there were heard most terrible Noises every body thought that the very Elements themselves were going into confusion there was so violent a Tempest This did not hinder him from going into it where by light of several Elamboys he saw the Figures of divers Men whose Cloaths and Arms were very strange There was one held a Copper Blade in his hand and upon it was writ in Arabick that the Time drew near for the Dissolation of Spain and that the Persons whose Statues were there would ere long come I never was in any place said I smiling where they rely'd so much on fabulous Tales as they do in Spain Say rather replied he that there never was any Woman so incredulous as you and in telling you this Story I did not think I should alter your Judgment But as much as one can be assur'd of a thing by the Testimony of Men this Story is credible It was now light enough very plainly to observe all the Charms of the Country We past the Tagus over a very great and fine Bridge of which I had heard and a little after discover'd Tolleda all surrounded with Hills and Rocks which command it There are very neat Houses built amongst those Hills design'd for the pleasure of Solitude The Arch-bishop of Tolleda has one there whether he goes often The City stands upon the Rock the unevenness of which in divers places contributes to make it high and low the Streets are narrow ill pav'd and troublesome which is the reason that all the People of Quality go there either in Chairs or Litters And as we were in a Coach we took up our Quarters in the Placa Mayor because that is only the part to which one can pass with a Coach as soon as we were arriv'd we alight at the Hospital of Foira which stands in the Suburbs whose Building consists of three Sides within which is a great square Court and the Church makes up the fourth side and there we heard Mass This Hospital was built by an Arch-bishop of Tolleda whose Monument and Statue in Marble are in the midst of the body of the Church The Walls of the City were rebuilt by the Moors on the Sides stands a great many little Towers which heretofore serv'd to defend it And it would be astrong Place being almost encompast with the Tagus and having extream deep Ditches did not the adjacent Hills command it from whence it were easie to batter it down It was not eight a Clock when we got thither and we would spend the rest of the Morning in seeing the Church which as 't is said is the finest in Europe The Spaniards call it Holy whether 't is upon the Account of the Relicks which are there or for some other reason which they did not tell me I know not If it was as long and as high as 't is broad it would be much better It is beautify'd with divers Chappels as big as Churches they all shine with Gold and Paintings the chief of which are those of the Virgin St. James St. Martin Cardinal Sandoual and the Connestable De Luna In the Quire I saw a Niche or hollow place from whence 't is pretended there issued out