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A05597 The totall discourse, of the rare adventures, and painefull peregrinations of long nineteene yeares travailes from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia, and Affrica Perfited by three deare bought voyages, in surveying of forty eight kingdomes ancient and modern; twenty one rei-publicks, ten absolute principalities, with two hundred islands. ... divided into three bookes: being newly corrected, and augmented in many severall places, with the addition of a table thereunto annexed of all the chiefe heads. Wherein is contayed an exact relation of the lawes, religions, policies and governments of all their princes, potentates and people. Together with the grievous tortures he suffered by the Inquisition of Malaga in Spaine ... And of his last and late returne from the Northern Isles, and other places adjacent. By William Lithgow.; Most delectable, and true discourse, of an admired and painefull peregrination from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia and Affricke Lithgow, William, 1582-1645? 1640 (1640) STC 15714; ESTC S108592 306,423 530

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stock Is extant yet though in the Descent broke On the South-west side of Troy standeth the Hill Ida having three heads On which Paris out of a sensuall delight rejecting Iuno and Pallas judged the golden Ball to Venus fatall in the end to the whole Country The ruines of which are come to that Poeticall Proverb Nunc seges est ubi Troja fuit Now corn doth grow where once faire Troy stood And soil made fat with streams of Phrygian blood Leaving the fields of noble Ilium we crossed the River of Simois dined at a Village named Extetash I remember in discharging our covenant with the Ianizary who was not contented with the former condition the French men making obstacle to pay that which I had given the wrathfull Ianizary belaboured them both with a cudgell till the blood sprung from their heads and compelled them to double his wages This is one true note to a Traveller whereof I had the full experience afterward that if hee cannot make his owne part good hee must alwayes at the first motion content these Rascals otherwise hee will be constrained doubtlesse with stroakes to pay twice as much for they make no account of conscience nor ruled by the Law of compassion neither regard they a Christian more than a Dog but whatsoever extortion or injury they use against him hee must be French-like contented bowing his head and making a counterfeit shew of thanks and happy too oftentimes if so hee escape Hence we arrived at the Castles called of old Sestos and Abydos in a small Frigot which are two Fortresses opposite to other Sestos in Europe where Thracia beginneth and Abidos in Asia where Bythinia likewise commenceth being a short mile distant and both of them foure leagues from Troy They stand at the beginning of Hellespont and were also cognominate the Castles of Hero and Leander which were erected in a commemoration of their admirable fidelity in love Which curling tops Leander cut in two And through proud billows made his passage go To court his Mistris O Hero the fair Whom Hellespon to stop was forc'd to dare Sweet was their sight to other short their stay For still Leander was recald by day At last stern Ae●le puft on Neptunes pride And gloomy Hellespont their loves divide He swims and sinks and in that glutting down The angry Fates did kinde Leander drown Of which when Hero heard judge you her part She smote her self and rent in two her heart But now they are commonly called the Castles of Gallipoly yea or rather the strength of Constantinople between which no Ships may enter without knowledge of the Captains and are by them strictly and warily searched lest the Christians should carry in Men Munition or Furniture of Armes for they stand in feare of surprising the Town And at their return they must stay three days before they are permitted to go through because of transporting away any Christian slaves or if they have committed any offence in the Citie the knowledge there●f may come in that time At that same instant of my abode at Abidos there were fourescore Christian Slaves who having cut their Captaines throat with the rest of the Turks run away from Constantinople with the Galley And passing here the second day thereafter at midnight were discovered by the Watch of both Castles where the Cannon never left thundring for two houres yet they escaped with small hurt and at last arrived in the Road of Zante desiring landing and succour for th●ir victuals were done victuals they sent them but the Governour would not suffer them to come on Land In end the Sea growing somewhat boysterous the slaves for an excuse cut their Cables and runne the Galley a shoare Upon this they were entertained in service but the Providitor caused to burne the Galley fearing least the Turks should thereby forge some quarrell The yeare following an other Galley attempted the same but the poore slaves having past the Castles had been so wounded and killed with the great shot and the Galley ready to sinke they were enforced to runne a shoare where the next morning being apprehended they were miserably put to death Betwixt the Castles and Constantinople is about fortie leagues Over this straight Xerxes did make a bridge of Boats to passe into Greece which when a sudden tempest had shrewdly battered hee caused the Sea to be beaten with 300 stripes And at that same time Xerxes passing over the Hellespont and seeing all the Sea clad with his Army his Horses Chariots and Ships the teares burst from his eyes and being demanded the cause of his griefe answered O said hee I weep because within a hundred yeares all this great and glorious sight shall be dissolved to nothing and neither man nor beast shall be alive nor Chariot nor Engine of War but shall be turn'd to dust and so I sorrow to see the short mortality of Nature Indeed it was a worthy saying from such a Heathenish Monarch who saw no further than the present misery of this life Here I left the two French men with a Greeke Barber and imbarked for Constantinople in a Turkish Frigate The first place of any note I saw within these narrow Seas was the ancient Citie of Gallipolis the second seat of Thracia which was first builded by Cajus Caligula and somtimes had beene inhabited by the Gaules It was the first Towne in Europe that the Turks conquered and was taken by Solyman sonne to Orchanes Anno 1438. North from Thracia lyeth the Province of Bulgaria commonly Volgaria and was called so of certaine people that came from a Country neere to the River Volgo in Russia about the yeare 666. It lyeth betweene Servia Thracia and Danubio and by the Ancients it was thought to be the lower Misia but more iustly the Region of Dacia The chife Town is Sophia which some hold to be that Towne which Ptolomeus named Tebisca Here in Thracia lived the Tyrant Polymnestor who treacherously murthered Polidorus a yonger sonne of Priamus for which fact He●uba the young Princes mother scratched him to death Here also reigned the wortthy King Cotis whom I propose as a paterne of rare temper in mastring and preventing passion To whom when a neighbour Prince had sent him an exquisite present of accurately wrought glasse he having dispatched the messenger with all due complements and gratitude of Maiestie broke them all to pieces lest by mishap any of his Servants doing the like might stir or move him to an intemperate choler The Greekes here and generally through all Greece beare as much reverence and respect to Mount Athos as the Papists beare to Rome All of which Religious Coliers or Friers must toile and labour for their living some in the Vines some in the Corn-fields and others at home in their Monasteries or else where abroad are alwayes occupied for the maintaining of their Families they are but poorely clad yet wonderfull kinde to all Viadants
of the reformed Order 〈◊〉 S. Francis for begetting fifteene young Noble Nunnes ●ith child and all within one yeare he being also their ●●ther Confessor Whereat I sprung forward through 〈◊〉 throng and my friend followed me and came just to 〈◊〉 pillar as the halfe of his body and right arme fell flat●●gs in the fire the Frier was forty sixe yeares old and had bin Confessor of th●t 〈◊〉 of 〈…〉 yeares Most of th●se young Nunnes were Senators daughters and two of them were onely come in to learne vertue and yet fell in the midst of vice These fifteene with Child were all recald 〈…〉 their fathers Pallaces the Lady Prioresse and the rest of her 〈◊〉 crew were banished for ever from the precincts of Venice The Monastery was razed to the ground their Rents were allowed to be bestowed upon poore families and distressed age and their Church 〈◊〉 bee converted to an Hospitall Most part of all which M. 〈◊〉 and I saw before ever we either eate dranke or ●ooke our lodging in Venice And I cannot forget how after all this wee being in hungred and also 〈◊〉 tumbled in by chance All 〈…〉 the greatest 〈◊〉 in all Venice neere to which the Friars bones were 〈◊〉 burning And calling for a Chamber wee were nobly and richly served After dinner they laid up our budgets and our burthens and abroad went we to see the 〈◊〉 Night come wee sup'd and sup'd alone the 〈…〉 I begun to remarke the grandeur of the Inne and 〈◊〉 was time that we were gone I demanded our 〈◊〉 what was to pay hee answered Vn s●udo all 〈◊〉 par 〈◊〉 ripasto a Crowne the dyet for each of us being ten Iule●s or five shillings 〈◊〉 Mr. Arthur looked uppon me and I laugh'd 〈…〉 a word our dinner 〈…〉 foure Crownes whereat my companion being discontented ●ad the Divell be in the Friars ballocks for wee had paid soundly for his Leachery many like deaths 〈…〉 causes and worser have I seene in all my three 〈◊〉 if time could permit me to 〈◊〉 them But from this thou mayst play the learned Geometrician till 〈◊〉 findest more and opportunity give thee occasion Cingitur urbs Venetum pelago ditissima nummis This Towne most rich to dare the Maine is shut In Neptunes bosome and sea-streeted cu● Venice is a Garden of riches and wordly pleasures the chiefe flowre of Common-weales and the perfect mirr●ur of civill and politicke Governement This sequestrat City is situate in the bosome of Neptune and divided from the world with a part of his maine body which invironeth the Iland The Common-we●lth of Venice containeth Marcha del Trevisa which lyeth in Lombardy containing these Cities Trevisa Padua Vincenza Verona Brisc●a the second City for bignesse and beauty in all Lombardy Ber●●mo Chizza and Rovigno Friuli formerly called Fo●●m Iulij lyeth in the straight betweene the East end of the ●lpes and the sea Adriaticke in length fifty in breadth forty miles It hath beene often subject to the vicissitude of ●ortune The chiefe towne is Treista in the bottome of 〈◊〉 gulfe and Palma lately built by the Venetians 158● ●eing the most impregnable and best fortified towne in ●●aly Furili was a Dukedome founded by the Lombards 〈◊〉 the beginning of the Venetian Common-wealth After●ard Luitprandus one of the Dukes envying the encrease of the dominion of Venice made war against them which ended in the losse of his owne country The rest bee Istria a part of Dalmatia the Ilands of Candy Corfue Zante ●ephalonia Serigo Tino Valdi Campare Lesina and o●her of lesser note The Venetians howsoever of old they have bin great ●arriers they are now more desirous to keepe then in●arge their Dominions and that by presents and money rather than by the sword of true valour so that whatsoever they loose by battell it is observed they recover againe by treaties The Venetians are said to have discended of the Hennets in Asia lesser who assisting the Trojans and Troy being lost their King Pterilimene slaine they fled away with Antenor and ariving in this part of Italy seated themselves till the report of the Hunnes designe against Italy made them avoyding the storme before it fell to draw into these Ilands and Marishes where now it standeth It was first founded and begun Anno. 411. March 25. being distant from the maine land five miles and defended against the fury of the sea by the banke extending to fifty miles in length through which in eight places there is passage broken for small boates but no way for vessels of any burthen save at Malamucco and the Castle of Lio Yea and so dangerous that there is neither out-going nor in-comming without a Pylot which maketh the City unconquerable This City is seven miles in compasse and from so base an abject beginning it is growne as it were to bee the chiefe bulwarke of Europe The Duke of this Adriaticke Queene espouseth the sea every Ascension day by casting a golden ring into it Which stu●titious ceremony by Pope Alexander the third was granted when hee fled to Venice for succour being persecuted by Fredericke Barbarossa And the Venetians vanquishing Otho the Emperours sonne restored the Pope and for a reward was honoured with this espousall The length of the Territory of Venice in Lombardy lying along the foote and South side of the Alpes amounteth to sixe score five miles the breadth whereof in the plan●re is narrow but stripeth larger among the hills and lakes and very populous The applauding Italian saith that Europe is the head of the World Italy the face of Europe and Venice the eye of Italy and indeed it is the strongest and most active part of that powerfull body Whereby it would appeare that in the last subversion of the latter Monarchy the Romane Genius made a Pythagoricall transmigration into Venic● whose peace hath procured the plenty and whose Warres the peace of Christendome The Lawes of this City permit not the younger sonnes of the best Gentry to marry least the number increasing should deminish the dignity yet neverthelesse they permit them unlawfull pleasures and for their sakes allow publicke stewes The Iewes here and in Rome weare red and yellow hats for notice sake to distinguish them from others which necessary custome would to God were enjoyned to all the Papists here in England so should we easily discerne them from the true Christians And finally to discourse upon the provision of their magnificent Arsenall Artillery Munition and Armor the devision of streetes with channels the innumerable bridges of stone and timber their accustomable kind of living apparrell curtesies and conventions and finally the glory of Gallants Gal●eries Gallies Galleasses and Galliouns were a thing impossible for me briefly to relate Wherefore since the situation thereof and the decorements of their beautifull Palaces are so well knowne and their generall Customes by the better sort I desist concluding thus this incomparable mansion is the onely Paragon of all Cities in
I left the turmoyling dangers of the intricated Iles of the Ionean and Adriaticall seas and advised to travell in the firme land of Greece with a Caravan of Greekes that were bound for Athens Peterasso is a large and spacious City full of Merchandise and greatly beautified with all kind of C●mmercers Their chiefe commodities are raw Silkes Cloth of gold and silver Silken grow-grams Rich-Damask Velvets of all kinds with Sattins and Taffaties and especially a store-house for graine The Venetians Ragusans and Marseillians have great trading with them Here I remember there was an English Factor lying whom the Subbassa or Governour of the Towne a Turke caused privately afterward upon malice to be poysoned even when I was wintring at Constantinople for whose death the worthy and generous Ambassadour Sir Thomas Glover my Patron and Protector was so highly incensed that he went hither himselfe to Peterasso with two Ianizaries and a Warrant sent with him from the Emperour who in the midst of the Market-place of Peterasso caused one of these two Ianizaries strike off the head from the shoulders of that Sanzack and put to death divers others also that had beene accessary to the poysoning of the English Consull And the Ambassadour returning againe to Constantinople was held in singular reputation even with the Turkes for prosecuting so powerfully the sword of Justice and would not shrinke for no respect I being domesticke with him the selfe same time Pelop●nnesus now called Morea a Peninsula is all invironed with the sea save onely a narrow straight where it is tyed to the continent by an Istmus of five miles in breadth which the Venetian then Lord of it fortified with five Castles and a strong wall from creeke to creek which easily were subverted by the Turkish batteries the defect onely remaining in the defendants weaknesse and want of men Corinth and its gulfe lyeth at the East end of this Istmus and the Gulfe Lepanto on the West dividing Aetolia and Epyre The wall which traversed this strait of Morea was called Hexamite five miles long Truely it is one of the most famous destroit du terre en Europe Morea it selfe is in length 168. and in compasse 546. Miles and is at this day the most fertile and best inhabited Province of all the Empire of Greece The chiefe Rivers here are Arbona and Ropheos Argos here also is watered with the River Planizza neare which standeth the Towne of Epidaure wherein the Temple of Esculapius was so renowned for restoring of health to diseased persons It was anciently cognominate Agalia from Agalius the first King An. Mun. 1574. and also intituled from two Kings Sicionia and Apia then Peloponesus from Pelops and now Moreah It is divided in five territories or petty Provinces Laconia Arcadia Argolis Miseni● Eliso the proper territory of Corinth Of which City it was said Hor. Let men take heed of Lais Corinths whore Who earn'd ten thousand Drachmas in an houre It is said by Aeneas Silvius in his Cosmographicall treatise of Europe that divers Kings went about to dig through this Istmus to make it an Iland namely King Demetrius Iulius Caesar Caius Calig●la Domitius Nero of all whom he doth note that they not onely failed of their purpose but that they came to violent and unnaturall deaths But before the aforesaid Caravan at Paterasso admitted me into his company hee was wonderfull inquisitive to know for what cause I travailed alone and of what Nation I was To whom I soberly excused and discovered my self with modest answers which pacified his curiosity but not his avaritious mind for under a pretended protection he had of me hee extorted the most part of my money from my purse without any regard of Conscience In the first second and third dayes journeying we had faire way hard lodging but good cheare and kind entertainment for our money which was the Country Laconia But on the fourth day when we entred in the hilly and barren Country of Arcadia where for a daies journey we had no Village but saw abundance of Cattell without keepers and in that place it is thought the great battell of Pharsalia was fought between Iulius Caesar and Pompey the great Arcadia is bounded on the East with Eliso on the West with Misenia on the North with Achaia inferiour and on the South with a part of Laconia and the sea It was formerly termed Pelasgia and lastly it tooke the name from Arcas the sonne of Iupiter and Calisto the people whereof did long imagine they were more ancient than the Moon This soyle of whom Arcas great Patron was In age the Moone excell'd in wit the Asse But because it is a tradition of more antiquity than credit I doe rather note it than affirme it And as men should dread the thunder-bolt when they see the lightning so ignorance and Idolatry placed amongst us and round about us may be a warning to the professours of the truth to take heed of the venome lest by their Arcadian antiquity surpassing the Moone they become novices to some new intended Massacre for as powder faild them but alas not poison so now with policy they prevaile in all things how long the holy one of Israel knoweth but certainly our sins are the causes of their domineering our careles drooping In this desart way I beheld many singular Monuments and ruinous Castles whose names I know not because I had an ignorant guide But this I remember amongst these Rocks my belly was pinched and wearied was my body with the climbing of fastidious mountaines which bred no small griefe to my breast Yet notwithstanding of my distresse the remembrance of those sweet seasoned Songs of Arcadian Shepheards which pregnant Poets have so well penned did recreate my fatigated corps with many sugred suppositions These sterile bounds being past wee entred in the Easterne plaine of Morea called anciently Sparta where that sometimes famous City of Lacedemon flourished but now sacked and the lumpes of ruines and memory onely remains Marching thus we left Modena and Napoli on our right hand toward the sea side and on the sixt day at night we pitched our Tents in the dis-inhabited villages of Argo and Micene from the which unhappy Hellen was ravished This cursed custome of base prostitution is become so frequent that the greater sort of her mercinary sexe following her footsteps have out-gone her in their loathsom journeys of libidinous wayes shee being of such an infinite and voluptuous crew the arch-Mistresse and ring-leader to destruction did invite my Muse to inveigh against her lascivious immodesty as the inordinate patterne of all willing and licentious rapts I would thy beauty fairest of all Dames Had never caus'd the jealous Greekes to move Thy eyes from Greece to Illion cast flames And burnt that Trojan with adulterate love He captive like thy mercy came to prove And thou divorc'd was ravish'd with a toy He swore faire Helen was his dearest dove And
for what you Gulls Suspect After this their sequell answere being mortified and I set at liberty by a just favour of the Privy Councell my formalists durst never attempt any further dispute with me neither any passing countenance in our rancounters But what shall I say concerning my grievances Sed qui Patitur vincit Since there is no helpe or Redresse to bee had for wrongs past no neither alasse for any present in either meane or mighty falls for when the Starres of great states decline under the selfe-same constellation of my sorrowes and made the deplored for spectacles of the inconstancy of fortune what shall I then in a priuate life and publicke pilgrimage expect but the common calamity of this age and the irrevocable redresse of my miseries sustained for this Crowne and Kingdom of England which shall be presently cleared yet would to God I might do as Xerxes the Persian King did that when the Greekes had taken Sardis the Metropole of Lydia he commanded one of his servants to stand before him every day at dinner and cry aloud saying the Grecians have taken Sardis whereby he was never at quiet till it was recovered So would I oppressed I by mighty powers though not a King yet the faythfull subiect of a King cry dayly from the heart broken sorrow of my incompatible injuries O barbarous and inhumane Malaga when shall my soule be revenged on thy cruell murther and when shall mine eyes see thy mercilesse destruction but tush what dreame I now a dayes griefe can finde no reliefe far lesse compassion and meaner revenge and so farewell satisfaction when flattering feare dare challeng obsequiousnesse to the alteration of any thing But afterward when death Heavens fatal messenger and enemy to nature had darted King Iames of matchlesse memory who somtimes besides my soveraigne in some respects and for the former cause was a father to me then was I forcibly I say constrayned to preferre a bill of grievance to the upper house of Parliament Anno 1626. which I dayly followed 17. weekes well my grievances were heard and considered and thereupon an order granted me bearing the Lords reference pleasure concerning my suite vnto Sir Thomas Coventrey Lord keeper of Englands great Seale and through whose office my businesse should have passed which order was delivered unto him by Mr. Iames Maxwell Knight of the blacke Rod and one of his Majesties Bed chamber in behalfe of the Lords of the upper house the order thus being reserved then with the Lord Keeper for a moneth he appointed me to fetch him because of a Warrant to his State office the Certificats of Sir Walter Aston Sir Robert Maunsell and Sir Thomas Button to cleare my sufferings and the causes wherefore which I gladly obeyed and brought all their three Certificates unto him yea and Sir Walter Aston besides his hand writ spoke seriously face to face with him there anent Meane while the house breaking up abruptly because of soveraigne disliking their order for my suite could take none effect as then nor yet since in regard it was no Session of Parliament and so my order and relief lyeth suspended till some happy time But now to confound the calumnious and vituperious Papists the miscreant and miserable Atheists the Peevish and selfe opinionating Puritans the faithles misbeleeving Mungrells of true Religion and of this trueth And the very obiections have beene sayd sometimes in my face by irreligious and disdainfull Nullifidians who have said and thought that I could neither be so constant nor they so cruell I thinke it not amisse to set downe verbally one of their Certificates here being all o● one stile and to one purpose and thus it followeth To the Right Honorable Sir Thomas Coventry Knight Lord Keeper of the great Seale of England c. MAy it please your Honour I have taken boldnesse to certifie your good Lordship of the trueth concerning the grievous sufferings of this heavily injured man William Lithgow true it is that this bearer being bound for Alexandria in Egypt having with him Letters of safe conduct under the Hand and Seale of his late Majesty King James of blessed memory rancountred with us and our Fleete at Malaga Whereof I was imployed as Vice-Admirall against the Pyrats of Algier where he repayring a Boord of us and frequenting our Company ashoore was presently after we had set Sayle apprehended by command of the Governor and Magistrates there as a Spie whom they suspected had of purpose beene left behind by our Generall and us of the Counsell of Warre for the Discovery of that place and other adjacent parts Whereupon being secretly imprisoned in the Governours Palace and after serious examination of our intention he was without any cause done or offered by him most uniustly put to the cruell Racke and tortures besides all other his vnspeakable miseries which for a long time he sustained thereafter whereof I was credibly and infallibly informed by Mr Richard Wilds to whom he was first discovered and by other English Factors of good note then resid●nt there In my repayring diverse times to the Roade of that towne with my Squadron of shippes during the time of his long imprisonment and after his deliverance And afterward the Governour there beeing better informed of our loyall proceedings in those parts and to colour their former cruelties and suspition had of us hee did wrest the Inquisition vpon him where being condemned to Death he had doubtlesse vndergone as I was likewise truely informed by the afore-said Merchants the finall Sentence of their Inquisition if it had not beene for the Religious care and speedy prevention of Sir Walter Aston then Leiger Ambassadour there By whose earnest mediation he being delivered and afterwards sent home by direction of Sir Robert Maunsell Generall I now commend his grieuous and lamentable cause vnto your Lordshipps tender and Religious Consideration Resting From Fulham this tenth of Iuly 1626. Your Lordships Command to serve You Thomas Button Knight and Vice-Admirall And now to conclude this Tragical discourse the Religious eye may perceive Gods compassionate love foure wayes here extended First his powerfull providence in my long and admirable preservation in Prison hunger Vermine and Tortures being my comfortlesse Companions Secondly the pittifull kindnes of his All●seeing Eye in the miraculous Wonder of my Discovery when the perverted policy of subtile Serpents had sceleratly suggested my concealement Thirdly his vnspeakable mercy in my vnlooked-for deliverance beeing by hopelesse me not thought nor sought and yet by his munificence was wrought And lastly his gracious goodnesse in the recovery after some large measure of my health and vse of my body againe all praise and glory be to his infinite Majesty therefore ANd finally merit beeing masked with the darkenesse of ingratitude and the morning Spring-tide of 1627 come I set face from Court for Scotland suiting my discontents with a pedestriall Progresse and my feete with the palludiat way where fixing mine eyes