stands upon his Honour and Reputation marches with his great Company in the same Street This happen'd to these Persons I have now mentioned Each of them would have the upper hand and neither would yield it The Footmen with their Flamboys began to lay one another over the Faces and burn their Whiskers and Hair the Friends of each Party drew their Swords against one another Our two Heroes who were only Arm'd with this Instrument of Penance search for each other and being met being a most terrible Battel After they have us'd a little Discipline about one anothers Ears and cover'd the Ground with the ends of their Whip-cords they fall to down-right Fifty-cuffs like any Porters Though after all there 's but little matter to laugh at in this piece of Mummery for they beat one another well-favouredly they wound and often kill and here old Enmities revive and are reveng'd But at last the Duke de Vejar yielded to the Marquess De Villa Hermosa they gather'd up their broken Whips and mended them as well as they could The great Cap which was thrown into the Canal was wip'd and put upon the Penitent's Head again the wounded were carried home and the Procession began again and they walk'd more gravely than ever through a great part of the City The Duke had a great mind the next Morning to be reveng'd but the King commanded both him and the Marquess not to stir out of their Houses But to come to what they do upon these Occasions You must know that after these Servants of God are return'd home there 's a magnificent Supper prepar'd of all sorts of Meats and observe that this is on the last day of Passion-Week But after so good a Work they think they may do a little Evil. Immediately the Penitent causes his shoulders to be a long time rub'd with Sponges dipt in Vinegar and Salt lest there should remain any bruised Blood after that he sets himself at the Table with his Friends and receives from them the Elogies and Applauses which he believes he has merited Every one in his turn tells him that in the Memory of Man none was ever seen to to receive the Discipline with so good a grace They magnifie all his Actions but above all the Happiness of that Lady for whose sake all this Bravery was perform'd The whole Night is spent in such kind of Discourse and sometimes he that has been so well flog'd is so sick that he cannot go to Mass on Easter-day Do not think that I use any Art to set out the History of this matter to make you merry it is all literally true and I tell you nothing which you may not be satisfied in from every body that has been at Madrid But there are also true Penitents which indeed troubles one extreamly to look on them they are drest just as those who gives themselves the Discipline except that they are naked from the shoulders to the middle and with a kind of a narrow Matt are swadled and bound so very hard that all the Flesh which appears is black and blew their Arms stretch'd out are wrapt about with the same Matt. They carry to the number of seven Swords sticking in their Backs and Arms which hurt them grievously when they stir too much or happen to fall which they often do for they going bare-foot and the stones in the Streets being sharp and cutting their Feet they cannot possibly always keep themselves up There are others who instead of these Swords carry Crosses so very heavy that they are even born down with them neither would I have you think that these are of the ordinary People some of them are of the highest Quality They are forc'd to have several of their Servants to accompany them but they are disguised and their Faces covered lest they should be known These carry Wine Vinegar and other things to give their Master from time to time who very frequently drop down dead with the extream pain and toil they endure Generally these Penances are enjoyn'd by their Confessors and they are so very severe that he which undergoes them seldom out-lives the Year The Pope's Nuncio told me that he had forbid all Confessors to impose them yet I have seen divers though in likelihood it proceeded from their own Devotion From the beginning of Passion-Week to Low-Sunday one cannot stir out of Door without seeing an infinite number of Penitents of all sorts and on Good-Friday they all come to the Procession which is but one general one for all the City and is composed of all the Parishes and Convents Upon this day the Ladies are more finely dress'd than on their Wedding-days they place themselves in their Balconies which are set out with rich Carpets and Cushions Sometimes there 's above a hundred Women together The Procession begins about four a Clock and is not ended till past eight for I cannot express to you the numberless Number of People I have seen counting from the King Don John the Cardinals Embassadors the Grandees the Courtezans to all sorts of Folks both of the Court and City Every one holds a Wax-Candle in his Hand and all their Servants which are numerous carry Torches and Flamboys In the Procession all their Banners and Crosses are covered with Crape and there 's a vast number of Drums covered with the same and they beat as at the Death of a General The Trumpets sound some Melancholy Tune The King's Guards which are four Companies of different Nations to wit Burgundians Spaniards Germans and L'Ancillians have their Arms covered with Mourning and trail them upon the ground There are certain Machines set upon Theatres which represent the Mysteries of the Life and Death of our Lord the Figures are as big as Life but very ill made and drest There are some so heavy that a hundred Men can but lift them of which there 's a vast number for every Parish has some I observ'd that of the Blessed Virgin flying into Egypt she was upon an Ass which had good Furniture the Housing was all over embroider'd with fine Pearls the Figure was very great and heavy Here they are afraid lest sometimes the People should fail in their Devotion at Easter and therefore for that reason each Parish-Priest goes to every House and enquires of the Master how many Communicants he has Being informed he notes the Number in his Book To every one that has receiv'd the Communion they give a Printed Certificate After Low-Sunday they visit all the Houses again and demand to see the Certificates which they ought to have according to the first Account taken of them and if they can shew none there 's a strict enquiry made after him or her who has not Communicated At this time the Poor who are sick hang out a Carpet at their Door and the Sacrament is brought to them in a very fine and Devout Procession Since my being at Madrid I have seen very few stately Funerals except one
Heads and Ears which made me send them a great many to which I added several Fans and they by way of Return presented me with Gloves and Thread-Stockins most delicately knit In sending them to me they desired me to go to the next Chappel which was not far from my Quarters where they intended to Regale me with the best Musick the Town would afford but though there were very good Voices yet there is no great pleasure in hearing them because they want both Air and Skill The Litters which I expected from Spain being come I prepared for my Departure but I never met any thing dearer than these sort of Equipages for each Litter has a Master that accompanies it who keeps the Gravity of a Roman Senator being mounted on a Mule and his Man on another with which they release ever and anon those that carry the Litter I had two I took the greatest for my self and my Child and had besides four Mules for my Servants and two others for my Baggage to conduct them there were other two Masters and two Men. You see what Charge one is at to go to Madrid seeing you must pay not only for their Attendance on you forwards but the same Price for their return back However we must submit to their Customs and suffer our selves to be peel'd by them I found at Bayonne several Turks and Mores and I think a worse sort of People and these are Custom-House-Men I had caused my Trunks to be weigh'd at Paris that I might have the less to do with these sort of People but they were more subtle or to speak better more obstinate than I so that I was forc'd to give them whatsoever they demanded Scarcely was I got clear from them when the Drums Trumpets Pipes and Violins of the Town came thundring upon me they follow'd me farther than St. Anthony's Gate through which you pass for Spain through Biscaye they play'd each of them in their way and all together without any Harmony which was enough to drive any one out of their Senses I ordered some Money to be given them upon which they left persecuting me As soon as we had left Bayonne we enter'd into a large barren Heath where we saw nothing but Chesnut-Trees but we afterwards past along by the Sea whose Sand makes a delightful way and a pleasant Prospect We arriv'd in good time at St. John de Luz nothing can be pleasanter than this Borough which is the greatest in France and the best built there are several smaller Cities its Port lies between two Mountains which Nature seems to have expresly placed to defend it from Storms the River Nivelle disgorges it self therein the Sea comes up very high in it and the greatest Barks come up commodiously to the Key The Seamen here are very skilful at catching Whales and other large Fish We were here very well entertain'd so that our Tables were covered with all sorts of Wild Fowl but our Beds were not answerable being stuck with Feathers whose Pinions ran into our sides and we wanted Quilts to lay on the top of them I thought when we were to pay that I should have had a large Reckoning but they only demanded of me half a Lewis Dor when they would have cost more than five Pistoles at Paris The Situation of St. John de Luz is extreamly agreeable In the most spacious part of the Town you see here a very fine Church built after the Modern Fashion and here is a Passage over the River Nivelle on a Wooden Bridge of great length Here are Toll-Gatherers who make you pay for every thing you carry with you not excepting your Cloaths This Tax is demanded at their Pleasure and it is excessive on Strangers I was weary with speaking French to 'em and protesting I was no Spaniard they feigning not to understand me sneering in my Face and wrapping up their Heads in their Hooded-Gowns they seem'd to me to be Thieves disguised in Capuchins In short they tax'd me eighteen Crowns and would perswade me they used me well tho' I found the contrary But I have already told you dear Cosin that when you travel this Country you must stock your self with Patience and good store of Money I saw the Castle of Artois which seems a strong place and a little farther Orognes where the Biscaye is spoken without either French or Spanish I design'd to lye at Iron which is but three Leagues distant from St. John de Luz and I had set out that after Noon but the Dispute which we had with the Watch on the Bridge the Difficulty we had in passing the Mountains of Beotia and the ill Weather joyned to other little Difficulties which hapned were the Cause that it was Night before we arriv'd on the Borders of the River Bidassoa which separates France from Spain I observ'd along the way from Bayonne thither little Carriages on which they transport every thing which have only two Iron Wheels and the Noise they make is so great that they are heard a mile off when there are many of them together which often happen for you often meet with Sixty or Seventy at a time they are drawn by Oxen. I have seen the same in the Villages of Bourdeaux and especially on the side of Axe The River of Bidassoa is usually very small but the Snows melting had increas'd it to such a degree that we had no small trouble to pass it some in a Boat and others swimming on their Mules The Moon shined very bright by means of which I was shew'd on the right Hand the Isle of Conference where the Marriage of our King was made with Maria Therese Infanta of Spain I saw a while after the Fort of Fontarabia which belongs to the King of Spain standing on the Mouth of this small River the Flux and Reflux of the Sea arrives here Our Kings heretofore pretended it belong'd to them there have been such great Contests hereupon especially by the Inhabitants of Fontarabia and those of Andaye that they have several times come to Blows This oblig'd Lewis the Twelfth and Ferdinand to agree That it should be common to both Nations the French and the Spaniards take Toll equally these last making those pay who pass into Spain and the former doing the like in relation to those who pass over to France War does not hinder Commerce on this Frontier it 's true they cannot subsist without it seeing they must perish through Want did they not assist one another This Country call'd Biscaye is full of high Mountains where are several Iron Mines The Biscays climb up the Rocks as easily and with as great swiftness as Stags Their Language if one may call such Jargon Language is very poor seeing one Word signifies abundance of Things There are none but those born in the Country that can understand it and I am told that to the end it may be more particularly theirs they make no use of it in Writing they make their
Fountains in the midst Several Knights of St. James live in this Town and the Metropolis which is dedicated to this Saint keeps his Body It is extream stately and prodigiously rich It is pretended you hear a kind of Clattering at his Tomb as if Arms were struck one against another and this noise is only heard when the Spaniards are to undergo any great Loss His Figure is represented on the Altar and the Pilgrims thrice kiss it and put their Hats on his Head for this is the chief part of the Ceremony they have also another very singular one they ascend the top of the Church which is covered with great flat Stones In this place stands a Cross of Iron whereon the Pilgrims ever fasten some Rag or Scrap of what they wear They pass under this Cross by so strait a Passage that they are forced to crawl on their Bellies through it and those who are not slender are in danger of being bursten And there have been some so ridiculous and superstitious that having omitted to do this they have expresly return'd back again three or four hundred Leagues for you see here Pilgrims of all Nations Here is a French Chappel of which great Care is taken It is said the Kings of France have been always great Benefactors to it The Church which is under ground is a better than that above there are stately Tombs and Epitaphs of great Antiquity which exercise the Wits of Travellers The Archiepiscopal Palace is a vast Pile and its Antiquity adds to its Beauty instead of diminishing it A Man of my Acquaintance a great Searcher into Etymologies assured me the Town of Compostella was so called because St. James was to suffer Martyrdom in the place where he should see a Star appear at Compestella It is true continued he that some People pretend it to be thus but the Peoples Credulity and Superstition carries 'em further for you are shew'd at Padron near Compostella an hollow Stone and it is pretended this was the little Boat in which St. James arriv'd after he had past so many Seas in it which being of Stone must have without a signal Miracle sunk to the bottom I suppose said I to him you believe this to be most true He smiled and continued his Discourse I cannot but give you the Description of our Militia They are called together every Year in the Month of October and all the Young Men from the Age of Fifteen are oblig'd to march for should it happen that a Father or any other Relation should conceal his Son or Kinsman and those who are Officers should come to know it they would condemn him who has so offended to perpetual Imprisonment There have been some Examples of this but they are rare for the Peasants are so infinitely pleas'd to see themselves Arm'd and treated as Cavalieros de Nobles Saldados del Rey that they would not for any Consideration be wanting to shew themselves on this occasion You shall seldom see in an whole Regiment any Souldier that has more Shirts than that on his Back and the Stuff they wear seems for its Coarseness to be made of Pack-thread their Shooes are made of Cord they wear no Stockins yet every Man has his Peacock or Dunghil-Cock's Feather in his Cap which is tied up behind with a Rag about his Neck in form of a Ruff their Sword oftentimes hangs by their side tied with a bit of Cord and ordinary without a Scabbard the rest of their Arms is seldom in better Order And in this Equipage they march gravely to Tuy where is the General Rendezvouz it being a Frontier place to Portugal There are three which lie thus the above-mention'd Cindud-Rodrigo and Badajor but Tuy is the best guarded because it is over-against Valentia a considerable Town belonging to the King of Portugal and which has been carefully fortifi'd These two Towns are so near that their Cannon will reach each other and if the Portuguises have omitted nothing to put Valentia out of danger of being insulted over the Spaniards pretend Tuy is in as good a Condition to defend it self It stands on an Hill whose lower part is wash'd by the River Minhio it has good Ramparts strong Walls and good store of Artillery It is here I say where these our Champions bid Defiance to the King's Enemies and in a strutting Bravery declare they do not fear ' em Perhaps something of this may happen in time for here are form'd as good Troops as in any other part of Spain However this is a great loss to the Kingdom the whole Youth being thus taken up for the Lands for the most part lye untill'd and on the side of St. James de Compostella you wou'd think you saw a Wilderness on that of the Ocean the Country being better and more peopled yields greater Profit and all things necessary and convenient as Oranges Lemmons and Pomgranates several sorts of Fruits and excellent Fish especially Pilchards more delicate than those which come from Royan to Bordeaux One of the most remarkable things in my mind in this Kingdom is the Town of Doiense one part of which always enjoys the Sweetness of the Spring and the Fruits of Autumn by reason of several Springs of boiling Water which warm the Air by their Exhalations whil'st the other part of this same Town suffers the Rigors of the longest Winters standing as it does at the Foot of a very cold Mountain so that you find in the space of one only Season all those which compose the course of the Year You say nothing replied I to him of the marvellous Fountain call'd Louzano Who have told you of it Madam answer'd he Persons that have seen it added I. You have been then told continu'd he that on the top of the Mountain of Cerbret you find this Fountain at the Source of the River Lours which has Flux and Reflux as the Sea tho' it be at twenty Leagues distance from it that the greater the Heats are the more Water it casts that this Water is sometimes cold as Ice and sometimes as hot as if it boil'd there being no Natural Cause to be giv'n for it You learn me Particulars I was ignorant of said I to him and this is doing me a great Pleasure for I want not for Curiosity in relation to things uncommon I wish replied he 't was not so late I would give you an account of several Rarities in Spain and which perhaps you would gladly learn I leave you for to Night said I to him but I hope before we come to Madrid we shall have an opportunity of discoursing of them He very civilly made me a Promise and the Play being ended we bad one another good night When I would go to rest I was led into a Gallery full of Beds as you see in Hospitals I said this was ridiculous and that needing only four what occasion was there for shewing me forty and to put me into such an open place to starve
a fair and just Pretence he would break ofs with Mendez to whom he had engaged his Word That should this happen he promist him solemnly I should be no Body's but his He receiv'd this Assurance in the same manner as if he had receiv'd his perfect Felicity but he knew well the Dolor I conceiv'd thereat I became Pale my Eyes were covered with Tears and when we were about leaving him he desired me to draw near to him he told me with a languishing Tone fear nothing Mariana I love you too well to displease you you shall have Mendez seeing your Affections are engaged to him I answer'd him I had no particular Inclination for him but being commanded to respect him as a Man who was to be my Husband I could do no otherwise however I intreated him to be well This seem'd to me the least step I could take towards a Person to whom I had so great Obligations He appear'd thereat sufficiently satisfy'd attempting to take my Hand and kiss it Remember said he to me you enjoyn me to live and that my Life being your Work you will be oblig'd to conserve it We return'd at Night and the Impatient Mendez waited for us to make me new Reproaches I took 'em as I was wont as Proofs of his Passion and having justified my self I askt him What News there was of the Fleet Alas said he to me my Father has receiv'd such as drives me to Despair I dare not inform you Have you any thing separate from me said I to him looking tenderly on him Would you have me to be reserv'd to you I am too Happy replied he in that you have such favourable Dispositions and being not able to keep any Secret from you I must plainly tell you That the Galion in which is is our whole Estate is split and lost running against a Rock But I should be less sensible how greatly soever I am Interest did I not look on the Vnhappy Consequences of this Loss Your Presence will restore the Marquess de Los Rios to his Health his Sentiments for you are known in your Family he is Rich and a great Lord I become Miserable and if you forsake me my dear Mariana I shall have no more Hope but in a speedy Death I was pierced with Sorrow at this sad News I took one of his Hands and closing it with mine I said to him My dear Mendez do not think me capable of loving you and yet leaving you by the Effects of your good or bad Fortune if you be able to bear up against it believe me so too I call Heaven to witness continued I provided you love me and be faithful to me that I will never forsake you and let it punish me if ever I prove Inconstant He testified all the Acknowledgements he ought me for such affectionate Assurances and we resolved not to divulge this Accident I withdrew very melancholly and shut my self up in my Closet ruminating on the Consequences of this sad Disaster I was still there when I heard some Body knocking softly at the Shutters of my Window I drew near and saw Mendez by the Light of the Moon What do you here said I to him at this time of the Night Alas answer'd he to me I was trying whether I could speak with you before I departed My Father has again lately received News of the Galion and will have me immediately go where she is run a-ground to endeavour to save something It is a great way thither and I shall be a great while without seeing you Ah dear Mariana during all this time will you be as good as your Word to me May I hope my dear Mistress will be faithful to me What Reason have I given you Mendez said I interrupting him to doubt it Yes continued I I will love you were you the most Vnfortunate Man in the World It would be to abuse your Patience Madam to relate to you whatsoever we said in this doleful Separation and though there appear'd no Danger yet our Hearts had a foreboding of what was afterwards to happen to us The Day began to appear and we must bid Adieu I saw him shed Tears which were accompanied with mine I threw my self on my Bed rowling a thousand sad Thoughts in my Mind and I appear'd the next Morning so out of Order that my Father and Mother were afraid I was falling into some dangerous fit of Sickness Mendez his Father came to make them a Visit to excuse his Son 's parting without taking his Leave of them He added He had a Business which required such haste as would not suffer him a Minute's time at his disposal As to my self Madam I was comfortless being insensible to every thing And if any thing could ease me 't was some hours Conversation with my dear Henrietta with whom I freely vented my Thoughts touching the long Absence of Mendez In the mean time the Marquess de Los Rios was out of Danger and my Father went often to see him I observ'd one day great Alteration on my Mother's Countenance she and my Father having been long shut up with Religioses who came to give 'em a Visit and after a Conference of some time they call'd me without my being able to divine the Cause I entred into their Apartment in such Disorder that I knew not what I did One of these good Fathers Venerable by his Age and Habit spake much to me about the Resignation we owe to the Divine Will on his Providence in every thing which relates to us and the Close of his Discourse was That Mendez was taken by the Algerines that he was a Slave and by his Misfortunes these Pyrates had learnt he was a rich Merchant's Son which had occasion'd the setting him at an extraordinary Ransom That they were at Algiers in the time he arriv'd would have willingly brought him along with 'em but the Money which they had for all was not sufficient for him alone That at their Return they had been at his Father 's to inform him of this vexatious Disaster but found he had absented himself and that the loss of a Galion on which was embarkt all his Effects without being able to save any thing had induced him to avoid his Creditors who sought him every-where to throw him in Prison That things being in this Condition they saw no Remedy to poor Mendez his Misfortunes being in the hands of Meluza the most famous and covetous of all the Corsaries and that if I would follow their Advice and that of my Parents I would think of taking another Party I had so far heard this dreadful News in so ecstatic a Condition that I could only interrupt them by sad Sighs but when he told me I must think of another Party I burst out with Tears and Shrieks as made both my Father and Mother and these Religioses compassionate me I was carried into my Chamber as one nearer death than life and Donna Henrietta was sent for
the Lord and his Creditors All Law-paper is mark'd and costs more than the other There 's a certain time when they make a distribution of Law-Suits they give the Instructions at Madrid but there are few judg'd there all the Papers of one side are put into a Bag and those of the other into another Bag and the Instructions into a third and when the time to distribute the Law-Suits is come they send them to some distant Parliaments so that very often one's Cause is try'd and judg'd without knowing any thing of it It is writ in a Register whether the Cause was sent which is kept very secret When Judgment is given it is sent back to Madrid and is signify'd to the Parties This Method saves a great deal of Trouble and Sollicitations which in my Opinion ought always to be forbidden As to business here it is excessive tedious whether it be at Court or in the City and ruines one in a little time The Spanish Practitioners are great Knaves in their Trade There are several different Councils all compos'd of Persons of Quality and the greatest part are Counsellors of the Sword The first is the Council of State the others are call'd the supream Council of War the Royal Council of Castille the Alcaides of Court the Council of the Holy Inquisition the Council of Orders the Sacred Supream and Royal Council of Arragon the Royal Council of the Indies the Council of the Chamber of Castille the Council of Italy the Council of the Finances the Council of the Croisado the Council of Flanders the Court for the Duty of Horse the Court for his Majesty's Woods and the Courts of the Millions They understand so little how to manage things to the best advantage that when a Father dyes and leaves ready Money and some Children under Age that they lock the Money up in a Chest and never put it out to be improv'd For Example The Duke de Frias whose Widow is marry'd to the Constable of Castille left three Daughters and six hundred thousand Crowns in ready Money they put it into three Chests with with the Name of each Daughter The Eldest was not seven years old she is now marry'd in Flanders to the Prince de Ligne The Guardians constantly kept the Keys of these Chests and never open'd that of the Eldest but to compt it to her Husband Observe what a loss there is of Interest But they tell you it would be much worse if the Principal happen'd to be lost that sometimes when one thinks they have put it securely out it proves quite otherwise That a Bankrupt makes one lose all so that it is better to gain nothing than to hazard the Pupil's Estate It is time to come to an end Dear Cousin I shall be afraid to tire you with a longer Letter I beseech you cause all those I send you to be deliver'd and pardon the freedom I take Adieu I embrace and constantly love you with all my Heart From Madrid this 27th of April 1679. The end of the Second Volume A RELATION OF A Voyage to SPAIN IN Several Letters The Last PART LETTER X. YOU did me a particular Kindness in letting me know that all my Letters come to your hands for I was a little concern'd for the Two last And since you still desire it dear Cousin I shall continue to inform you of every thing that passes and of all that I observe in this Countrey The Royal Palace is built upon a Hill which insensibly descends to the very Banks of the River call'd Mansanarez It looks several ways upon the Country which is very pleasant there One goes to it through the Callemayor that is to say the Great Street which indeed is both very long and broad several considerable Houses add to its Beauty There 's a large open place before the Palace no body of what Quality soever is allow'd to come with a Coach into the Court but they stop under the great Arch of the Porch except it be when Bonefires are made there or when there are Masquerades and then Coaches go in a very small number of Halbardeers stand at the Gate upon my asking why so great a King had so small a Guard why Madam says a Spaniard to me Are not we all his Guards He reigns too absolutely in the Hearts of his Subjects either to fear any thing or distrust them The Palace stands at the end of the City towards the South it is built of very white Stone Two Pavillions compleat the Front the rest is not regular Behind it there are two square Courts each consisting of four sides the first is adorn'd with two great Terrass-walks which run quite through they are rais'd upon high Arches and are beautified with Ballisters and Statues That which I observ'd very singular was that the Womens Statues had Red upon their Cheeks and Shoulders you go through fine Porches which bring you to the Stair-case which is extream large the Apartments are furnisht with excellent Pictures admirable Tapistry most rare Statues stately Houshold Goods and in a word with every thing suitable to a Royal Palace But there are divers of the Rooms dark I saw some which had no Window and receiv'd Light only when the Door open'd those which have Windows are but little lighter because of their smallness they alledge that the Heat is so excessive that they are willing to hinder the Sun from coming in as much as they can But there 's yet another Reason for Glass is very scarce and dear and as to other Houses there are many which have Windows without any Glass and when they would describe a compleat House they 'll tell you in one word that 't is Glaz'd This want of Glass does not appear without because of the Latices The Palace is addorn d with divers gilt Balconies which indeed look very fine All the Councils sit there and when the King has a mind to be present he passes through certain Galleries and little Entries unperceiv'd There 's a great many People perswaded that the Castle of Madrid which Francis the Fifth caus'd to be built near the Wood of Bologn was after the Model of the King of Spain's Palace but 't is a mistake and nothing is less alike The Gardens are not suitable to the Dignity of the Place they are neither large enough nor so well improv'd as they should be the Ground as I have observ'd reaches to the very Brink of Mansanarez the whole is inclos'd with Walls and if these Gardens have any Beauty they owe it purely to Nature They work hard to get the Young Queens Apartment ready for her Reception all her Servants are nam'd and the King expects her with the greatest Impatience The Buen Retiro is a Royal House near one of the Gates of the City the Count Duke caus'd at first a little house to be built there and call'd it Galinera it was for keeping his rare Poultry in which had been presented to him and
People thought the Baiting fine they carried these two unfortunate Lovers to her unhappy Father's House they both desired to be in the same Chamber and though they had but a little time to live yet beg'd the Favour they might be married accordingly they were married and since they could not live together yet at least were they buried together in one and the same Grave The Story has mightily increased the Aversion I had already conceived against these sort of Feasts and I told Don Ferdinand so after I had thank'd him for his pains in relating it to me Hitherto I have said nothing to you concerning the Spanish Language in which I am endeavouring to make some Progress It pleases me extreamly it is expressive noble and grave Love finds it commodious for its work and can play the fool prettily enough in it The Courtiers speak more concisely than others they make use of such abstracted Comparisons and Metaphors that unless one is us'd to hear them half their meaning is lost I have learnt several Languages or at least understand the first Rudiments of them but yet in my mind it is only our own which exceeds the Spanish I come just now from seeing Ten Gallies which are arriv'd this is somewhat strange in a City that is Eighty Leagues from the Sea but these are Land Gallies for if there be Sea-horses and Dogs why not Land ones They are shap'd like a Chariot but four times longer and have six Wheels three on a side and do not go much slower than a Chariot the upper part is round and is very like a Gally they are covered with Canvas and may contain forty Persons there one sleeps and dresses victuals indeed 't is a Moving-house they put eighteen or twenty Horses to draw it the Machine is so long that it cannot be turn'd but in a field they come usually from Gallicia and Manca the country of the brave Don Quixot they set out eight ten or twelve in a Company to be helpful to one another in case of need For when one overturns it makes a great havock and the best that can happen is a broken Arm or Leg there must be above a hundred to raise it up again In it there is carried all sorts of Provisions for the Country through which they pass is so very barren that on Mountains which are fourscore Leagues broad the biggest tree one meets with is a little wild Tyme there 's in 't neither Inn nor Inn-keepers you sleep in the Gally and 't is a miserable Country for Travellers Monsieur Mollini the Popes Nuncio consecrated the Patriarch of the Indies on Trinity Sunday and the King was there I saw him come in he had a Black Suit and a gold coloured Silk Belt on and little Pearls were set round the flowers his hat was so broad which they never cock here that the Brims laid upon his shoulders and lookt ill I observed that during the Ceremony he eat of something which was held to him in a Paper they told me it was either Leeks or Shallots of which he eats very often I was too far off to see him well he did not return to Buenretiro because of Corpus Christi-day at which Ceremony he would assist In coming out of the Church I knew a French Gentleman whose Name is Juncas he is of Burdeaux where I saw him I ask'd him how long he had been here he told me but a little while and that his first Business had been to have seen me had he not been engag'd at Bayon not to lose a minute's time in the search of a very wicked Fellow which was supposed to be hid at Madrid That it was not the Curiosity to see the Patriarch of the Indies consecrated which drew him to the Hieronimites otherwise the Daughters of the Conception but that having desired to speak with one of the Nuns he was told that he could not see her till the King was gone He added that this was one of the handsomest Women in the World and hath been the cause of a great unhappiness in the Family of Monsieur De Lande I remember to have seen her as I have gone by and intreated him to tell me the matter It is says he too long and melancholy a Mischance to relate presently but if you will see the young Nun I speak of I am persuaded she 'll not be unpleasant to you I willingly accepted his Offer because I have so often been told that they have so much more wit in Monasteries then elsewhere in the world We went into a Parlour which had three such terrible Iron-doors with spikes as made me wonder How is this said I It has been told me that the Nuns in this Country are very amorous but I cannot be persuaded that Love is bold enough to venture over these long Spikes and through these little holes where one must undoubtedly perish You are deceived Madam cri'd Juncas at the Appearances of things if the Lady which is coming can spare me so much time I 'll presently tell you what I learnt of a friend of mine a Spaniard the first Journey I made hither But at the very instant Donna Isidora came into the Parlour I found her much handsomer than I had fancy'd her in my own Mind to be Monsieur De Juncas told her that I was a French Lady which had a great mind to be acquainted with her upon his report of her Merits She thankt me in a very modest manner and afterwards told us that it was very true that the Wretch after whom Enquiry was made had been lately at Madrid but that she was certain he was not now there and that he had even had the Impudence to write to her by the hands of a Man where he lodg'd that the Letter was brought to her after his Departure and that she would not receive it It seems to me said I interrupting of her that he could not be taken supposing he were yet here Sometimes says Donna Isidora Permission is obtain'd from the King There are certain Crimes for which there is no Sanctuary and that is one of them She fell a weeping notwithstanding all her endeavours to hinder her tears and added that thanks be to Heaven she could not reproach her self with any thing in the late Business but yet she could not forbear grieving extreamly that she had been the cause of it We talk'd together a good while longer and I was as much charm'd with her Wit as with her Beauty Afterwards I withdrew I am absolutly yours most dear Cousin be throughly persuaded of it From Madrid this 29 of May 1679. LETTER XI ONE must love you as mightily as I do Dear Cousin to resolve to write to you in a Season when the Weather is so excessive hot Whatever has been told me and whatever I could imagine of it is nothing in comparison to what I now feel To defend my self from the heat I leave open all my Windows all night long
and with which I sav'd my self harmless There were also brought to Table a Ham of Bacon which came from the Frontiers of Portugal and which is better than either those they boast so much of at Bayonu or those of Ments but it was spread all over with certain little Comfits which in France we call Non-pariel the Sugar of which melted in the Fat it was drawn full of Limon-peel which abated much of its goodness The Fruit was the best and the pleasantest thing one can see for whole Trees with their Fruit were Iced over with Sugar after the Italian way you 'll easily believe the Trees were not very big There were Orange Trees thus order'd with little artificial Birds fastned in them There were likewise Cherry Trees Rasberry and Goseberry Bushes and others set in little Cases of Silver We did not sit long at Table because the hour for seeing the Queen was near we were carry'd thither in Chairs though it is a pretty distance and very much up Hill for the Alcacar is built upon a Rock of a prodigious height and the Prospect is admirable Before the Gate there is a very wide Place afterwards one comes into a Court an hundred and sixty foot long and an hundred and thirty broad adorn'd with two rows of Piazza's ten rows of the Pillars which made the length were all of one entire Stone and the breadth had eight rows of Pillars and this made a fine show But that which pleases much better is the Stair-case at the bottom of the Court which is an hundred and thirty foot wide like the Court. After one has gone up some steps it parts in two and to speak the Truth I believe 't is one of the fairest in Europe We went through a great Gallery and vast Appartments but met in them so few People that it did not look as if one could have met with the Queen-Mother of Spain there she was in a great Hall whose Windows were all open and which had a Prospect to the Valleys and the River The Hangings Cushions Carpets and Canopy were all of gray Cloth the Queen was standing and leaning upon a Balcony having in her hand a great pair of Beads When she saw us she turn'd towards us and receiv'd us with a Countenance merry enough We had the Honour to kiss her Hand which is little lean and white She is very pale her Complexion pure her Face a little long and flat her Looks are agreeable and her Stature is of a middle size she was drest as all the Widdows in Spain are that is like a Nun without so much as one Hair appearing and there are many though she 's not of that number that cause all their Hair to be cut off when they lose their Husbands for a greater expression of their Grief I observ'd that her Gown was tuck'd up quite round that so it might be let down as it wears out yet I do not believe she practises this but such is the fashion of the Country She ask'd me how long I had been come from France and I gave her an account she enquir'd if they discours'd then of a Marriage between her Son and Mademoiselle d' Orleance and I told her no then she said she would show me her Picture which was drawn from that the King her Son had and she bid one of her Ladies who was an old Duenna and very ugly bring it It was drawn in water Colours in the bigness of ones hand in a Box cover'd with black Sattin and lin'd with green Velvet Do you find says she that it is like her I assur'd her that there were not any of her Features for indeed it seem'd to squint the Face was awry and nothing could less resemble a Princess so perfect as Madamoiselle She ask'd me whether she was more or else handsome than this Picture I told her that she was handsomer beyond comparison The King my Son then reply'd she will be pleasantly cheated for he believes this Picture is just like her and no body can be better satisfied than he is with her For my part her Eyes that look askew were troublesome to me but to comfort my self I consider'd that she had a great share of Wit and divers other good Qualitles Do not you remember says she to the Marchioness de Palacios to have seen my Picture in the late King's Chamber Yes Madam answer'd the Marchioness and very well remember also that as soon as we saw your Majesty we all wondred extreamly why the Painter would do you so much wrong that 's what I would have said to you reply'd she for when I arriv'd here and cast my Eyes upon that Picture which they said was made for me I in vain try'd to believe it but I could not do 't A little she Dwarf but thick as a Tun and no taller than a good big Mushroom cloth'd all in Gold and Silver Brocade with long Hair hanging dowh to her Feet came in and kneeling before the Queen ask'd her if she would please to have Supper upon which we offer'd to withdraw but she told us we might follow her and she went into a Parlour all of Marble she sat down to Table all alone and we all stood round her Her Maids of Honour with the Camera Mayor who look'd very sad came to wait on her I saw some of them which methinks were very handsome they talkt to the Marchioness de Palacios and told her that they were horribly tyr'd with that sort of Life and that they liv'd at Tolleda as if they were in a Desart These were called Damas de Palecio and they wear Patins but for the little Menines they wear Shooes quite flat the Menines are Children of the highest Quality and neither wear Cloak nor Sword There were several Dishes brought before the Queen the first were Melons cool'd with Ice and some Sallets and Milk of which she eat plentifully before she touch'd any of the Flesh which look'd ill enough She does not want a Stomach and she drank a little Wine pure saying that was to digest her Fruit When she call'd for Drink the first Menin brought her Cup cover'd upon a Salver and kneeling gave it to the Camarera who also kneel'd when the Queen took it from her Hands and on the other side a Lady of the Palace presented upon Knee a Napkin to the Queen to wipe her Mouth with She gave some dry'd Sweet-meats to Donna Mariguita de Palacios and to my Daughter in saying to them they must not eat much of such things because they spoyl'd the Teeth of young Girls She ask'd me divers times how the Most Christian Queen did and how she diverted her self She said that she had lately sent her some Boxes of Amber Pastils some Gloves and some Chocolate She was above an hour and half at Table speaking little but seem'd merry enough We desired to know her Commands for Madrid whereupon she express'd a great deal of Kindness and Civility and
While the King is gone to meet her and the whole Court is absent my Kinswoman will go into Andalousia about some business she has there I might send you a short Relation of our little Journey if I could be assur'd it would please you I most heartily embrace you From Madrid this 30th of September 1679. LETTER XV. THE whole Court is return'd and in my Memoirs you 'll find dear Cousin the particulars of the Queen's Journey The King and she were both together in one Coach and the Curtains being all open I saw her at her arrival here She was drest after the Spanish way and I did not think that she lookt less handsome in this than in her French Garbe but the King was drest a-la-Schomberg which is the Spanish habit for the Country and 't is almost like the French I have heard it told how strangely the Queen was surpris'd the first time she had the Honour to see him he had on a close body'd Coat of grey Barragon very short and wide Velvet Breeches Stockings of Pelo that is raw Silk which they work so very loose that their Skin appears through them this Silk is as small as a Hair and though they be very strait yet the King pulls them on at once and so he 'll tear sometimes twenty pair one after another He had also a very fine Cravat which the Queen sent him but it was ty'd a little too loose His Hair was put behind his Ears and he wore a grey Hat All the Journey which was very long they sat close to each other in a large Coach and seldom could understand one another but by some certain signs for the King cannot speak a word of French and the Queen could speak but very little Spanish Upon their arrival at Madrid they went to sing Te Deum at our Lady d' Atocha attended by all the Persons of Quality and a multitude of the People that made the Air resound with Acclamations of Joy Afterwards their Majesties went to Buen Retiro because the Appartments in the Palace were not yet ready and that the Queen was not to remain there till she had made her Entry This time must needs have been very tedious to her for she saw no body but the Camerera Mayor and her Ladies She 's forc'd to lead a Life so much against her Inclinations that she has need of all that Discretion and Sweetness of Temper she 's possess'd of to be able to endure it She has not so much as the Liberty to see the French Ambassador to be short 't is a perpetual Torment All the Spanish Ladies love her dearly and amongst themselves pitty her I was sometime ago at the Countess of Villambrosa's and in a great deal of Company The Marchioness de la Fuente came in there and as they are extream superstitious in this Country so she told them like one affrighted that being with the Queen who looking her self in a great Glass and laying her hand gently upon 't it crackt from top to bottom and that the Queen beheld it without being in the least mov'd but even laught at the Consternation that all the Ladies about here were in telling them it betray'd a weakness of Mind to take such notice of things and Accidents as might proceed from natural Causes They discours'd and argued a great while upon this matter and with deep sighs said that their Queen would not live long She also told us that the Queen was much more disturb'd at the incivility of the Camerera Mayor who seeing some of her Hairs out of place on her Forehead spit on her fingers to lay them smooth upon which the Queen stay'd her Arm telling her in a Majestick way that the best Essence there was not too good and that taking her Handkerchief she was a great while a cleaning that part of her Hair which this piece of Antiquity had so unhandsomly wet It is no uncommon thing here to wet ones head all over the better to smooth and make the Hair shine the first time my Head was drest after the Spanish Mode one of my Relation's Women undertook this curious piece of work she was no less than three hours tugging and pulling my Head and finding that my Hair which is naturally curling would not comply without saying a word to me she dipt a great Spunge twice in a Bason of Water and baptiz'd me so handsomly that I was laid up with a Cold for a Month. But to return to the Queen it would draw pitty from one to see how this Camerera treats her I am well assur'd that she neither suffers her to have so much as a single Hair curl'd nor to come near her Chamber Windows nor to speak to any body and yet the King loves the Queen with all his Heart and for the most part eats with her and that without Ceremony so that very often when the Maids of Honour are laying the Cloth the King and Queen will divert themselves in helping them one will lay the Cloth and t'other a Napkin The Queen has her Meat drest after the French way and the King his after the Spanish He has a Woman Cook to dress all his Victuals but the Queen endeavours to bring him to like the Ragous that are made for her but he cannot abide them But now you must not imagin that their Majesties are surrounded with their Courtiers when they are at Dinner at the most there 's only some Ladies of the Pallace a few Menins but a great many Male and Female Dwarfs The Queen made her Entry the 13th of January after all the Passages and Avenues of the great Road which leads to Buen Retiro were stopt and all Coaches forbid to come that way there was a Triumphal Arch built and the Queen painted upon 't It was also cover'd with divers Garlands and had several Emblems and other things painted it was set in the way by which the Queen must pass to go into Madrid on each side there was a sort of a Gallery which had places contriv'd in them to shew the Arms of the several Kingdoms under the Spanish Dominion joyning one to another by certain Pillars which supported some gilt Statues every one of which represented Crowns and Inscriptions which had relation to those Kingdoms This Gallery reach'd to the Triumphal Gate on the great Road which was very rich and adorn'd with several Statues where likewise there were four beautiful and young Maids drest like Nymphs waiting for the Queen and holding in their hands Baskets of Flowers ready to strow them on the Ground as she past hardly was one out of this Gate or Arch but a second appear'd and so for a great way one after another was seen These were adorn'd with the King's Council that of the Inquisition the Council of the Indies of Arragon of State of Italy of Flanders and other Places under so many gilt Statues that of Justice was higher rais'd then all the rest A little