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A75794 The ingenious and diverting letters of the Lady -- travels into Spain. Describing the devotions, nunneries, humours, customs, laws, militia, trade, diet, and recreations of that people. : intermixt with great variety of modern adventures, and surprising accidents: being the truest and best remarks extant on that court and countrey.; Relation du voyage d'Espagne. English Aulnoy, Madame d' (Marie-Catherine), 1650 or 51-1705. 1697 (1697) Wing A4217C; ESTC R223570 271,209 292

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Fountains in the midst Several Knights of St. James live in this Town and the Metropolis which is dedicated to this Saint keeps his Body It is extream stately and prodigiously rich It is pretended you hear a kind of Clattering at his Tomb as if Arms were struck one against another and this noise is only heard when the Spaniards are to undergo any great Loss His Figure is represented on the Altar and the Pilgrims thrice kiss it and put their Hats on his Head for this is the chief part of the Ceremony they have also another very singular one they ascend the top of the Church which is covered with great flat Stones In this place stands a Cross of Iron whereon the Pilgrims ever fasten some Rag or Scrap of what they wear They pass under this Cross by so strait a Passage that they are forced to crawl on their Bellies through it and those who are not slender are in danger of being bursten And there have been some so ridiculous and superstitious that having omitted to do this they have expresly return'd back again three or four hundred Leagues for you see here Pilgrims of all Nations Here is a French Chappel of which great Care is taken It is said the Kings of France have been always great Benefactors to it The Church which is under ground is a better than that above there are stately Tombs and Epitaphs of great Antiquity which exercise the Wits of Travellers The Archiepiscopal Palace is a vast Pile and its Antiquity adds to its Beauty instead of diminishing it A Man of my Acquaintance a great Searcher into Etymologies assured me the Town of Compostella was so called because St. James was to suffer Martyrdom in the place where he should see a Star appear at Compestella It is true continued he that some People pretend it to be thus but the Peoples Credulity and Superstition carries 'em further for you are shew'd at Padron near Compostella an hollow Stone and it is pretended this was the little Boat in which St. James arriv'd after he had past so many Seas in it which being of Stone must have without a signal Miracle sunk to the bottom I suppose said I to him you believe this to be most true He smiled and continued his Discourse I cannot but give you the Description of our Militia They are called together every Year in the Month of October and all the Young Men from the Age of Fifteen are oblig'd to march for should it happen that a Father or any other Relation should conceal his Son or Kinsman and those who are Officers should come to know it they would condemn him who has so offended to perpetual Imprisonment There have been some Examples of this but they are rare for the Peasants are so infinitely pleas'd to see themselves Arm'd and treated as Cavalieros de Nobles Saldados del Rey that they would not for any Consideration be wanting to shew themselves on this occasion You shall seldom see in an whole Regiment any Souldier that has more Shirts than that on his Back and the Stuff they wear seems for its Coarseness to be made of Pack-thread their Shooes are made of Cord they wear no Stockins yet every Man has his Peacock or Dunghil-Cock's Feather in his Cap which is tied up behind with a Rag about his Neck in form of a Ruff their Sword oftentimes hangs by their side tied with a bit of Cord and ordinary without a Scabbard the rest of their Arms is seldom in better Order And in this Equipage they march gravely to Tuy where is the General Rendezvouz it being a Frontier place to Portugal There are three which lie thus the above-mention'd Cindud-Rodrigo and Badajor but Tuy is the best guarded because it is over-against Valentia a considerable Town belonging to the King of Portugal and which has been carefully fortifi'd These two Towns are so near that their Cannon will reach each other and if the Portuguises have omitted nothing to put Valentia out of danger of being insulted over the Spaniards pretend Tuy is in as good a Condition to defend it self It stands on an Hill whose lower part is wash'd by the River Minhio it has good Ramparts strong Walls and good store of Artillery It is here I say where these our Champions bid Defiance to the King's Enemies and in a strutting Bravery declare they do not fear ' em Perhaps something of this may happen in time for here are form'd as good Troops as in any other part of Spain However this is a great loss to the Kingdom the whole Youth being thus taken up for the Lands for the most part lye untill'd and on the side of St. James de Compostella you wou'd think you saw a Wilderness on that of the Ocean the Country being better and more peopled yields greater Profit and all things necessary and convenient as Oranges Lemmons and Pomgranates several sorts of Fruits and excellent Fish especially Pilchards more delicate than those which come from Royan to Bordeaux One of the most remarkable things in my mind in this Kingdom is the Town of Doiense one part of which always enjoys the Sweetness of the Spring and the Fruits of Autumn by reason of several Springs of boiling Water which warm the Air by their Exhalations whil'st the other part of this same Town suffers the Rigors of the longest Winters standing as it does at the Foot of a very cold Mountain so that you find in the space of one only Season all those which compose the course of the Year You say nothing replied I to him of the marvellous Fountain call'd Louzano Who have told you of it Madam answer'd he Persons that have seen it added I. You have been then told continu'd he that on the top of the Mountain of Cerbret you find this Fountain at the Source of the River Lours which has Flux and Reflux as the Sea tho' it be at twenty Leagues distance from it that the greater the Heats are the more Water it casts that this Water is sometimes cold as Ice and sometimes as hot as if it boil'd there being no Natural Cause to be giv'n for it You learn me Particulars I was ignorant of said I to him and this is doing me a great Pleasure for I want not for Curiosity in relation to things uncommon I wish replied he 't was not so late I would give you an account of several Rarities in Spain and which perhaps you would gladly learn I leave you for to Night said I to him but I hope before we come to Madrid we shall have an opportunity of discoursing of them He very civilly made me a Promise and the Play being ended we bad one another good night When I would go to rest I was led into a Gallery full of Beds as you see in Hospitals I said this was ridiculous and that needing only four what occasion was there for shewing me forty and to put me into such an open place to starve