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A29631 Travels over England, Scotland and Wales giving a true and exact description of the chiefest cities, towns, and corporations, together with the antiquities of divers other places, with the most famous cathedrals and other eminent structures, of several remarkable caves and wells, with many other divertive passages never before published / by James Brome ... ; the design of the said travels being for the information of the two eldest sons, of that eminent merchant Mr. Van-Ackar. Brome, James, d. 1719. 1700 (1700) Wing B4861; ESTC R19908 191,954 310

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Ships are under Sail dancing along the proud Billows of the Ocean After we had travelled some few Miles from hence we came in little time within the Liberties of the Bishoprick of Durham Bishoprick of Durham a County very rich in its Mountains which are inlayed with Iron Lead and Coals and very fruitful in its Valleys with Grass and Corn. It was formerly the Patrimony of St. Cuthbert who being Bishop of Lindisferne and afterward Patron of the Church of Durham led a Life of such wonderful Piety and Holiness that he was Canonized for a Saint and Invocated by some of the Kings and Princes of this Nation as their Tutelary Saint and Protector against the Picts and Scots who formerly did grievously infest these Parts upon which account upon him and his Successors was not only conferred and setled all the County between the Tees and the Tine while he lived but after his Death came divers Princes and other Potentates with the greatest Devotion imaginable in Pilgrimage to visit his Body and offered at his Shrine an inestimable Mass of Treasure To which many other great Privileges and Immunities being daily added at the coming in of the Norman Conqueror the Bishop was reputed for a Count Palatine and did ingrave upon his Seal an Armed Knight holding a naked Sword in one hand and the Bishops Arms in the other Nay it was once adjudged in Law that this Bishop was to have Forfeitures and Escheats within the Liberties as the King had without in short the Bishops hereof have had the Royalties of Princes having their own Courts of Judicature both for Civil and Criminal Causes and Coining their own Coins But these Royalties have been since taken off in a great measure and reannexed to the Crown However the Bishop is still Earl of Sadberg a place in this Bishoprick and takes place in the Episcopal College next to the Bishop of London but he is subordinate to the Arch-Bishop of York Darlington We took up our first Station at Darlington on the Skerne over which it hath a Stone-Bridge 'T is a Market-Town of good resort which Seir an English-Saxon the Son of Vlph having obtained leave of King Ethelred gave unto the Church of Durham and Hugh Pudsey adorned it with a fair Church and other Edifices Here was also formerly a College for a Dean and six Prebendaries In the Precincts of this place are to be seen three Pits full of Water of a wonderful depth called by the common People Hell-Kettles Hell-Kettles concerning which Sir Richard Baker in his Chronicle gives us this following Account That in the 24th Year of King Henry the Second the Earth in this place lifted up it self in the manner of a high Tower and so remained immovable from Morning until Evening and then fell with so horrible a noise that it afrighted all the Inhabitants thereabouts and the Earth swallowing it up made there a deep Pit which is still to be seen to this day That these Pits have Passages under Ground was first experimented they say by Bishop Tunstall who to satisfie his Curiosity herein marked a Goose and let her down into them which very Goose he found afterwards in the River Tees which runs along not far from this place Bishop-Aukland From hence we bent our course to Bishop-Aukland upon the Ware over which it has a Bridge 't is a Town pleasantly seated in a good Air upon the side of a Hill and as it was formerly adorned with a Collegiate Church dedicated to St. Andrew Founded by Anthony Beck Bishop of Durham for twelve Prebendaries so is it likewise graced with the Bishop's Palace built at first by the same Bishop Beck with divers Pillars of Black and White Marble and re-edified since by that Munificent Prelate Dr. Cosins one of the Miracles of our Age for his great and unbounded Works of Charity He likewise rebuilt the Chapel and very gloriously adorned it with the most costly Habiliments that are any way befitting so Sacred a place and the Plate which was bestowed upon it by him for religious Uses was of a great value Nor was his Charity confined at home but dispersed and diffused it self as liberally abroad having erected here an Alms-House as he did likewise another at Durham for divers poor People for whom he hath allotted a comfortable subsistence He erected at Durham a Library very spacious and uniform to which he bequeathed several Volumes of choice Books he raised there a new Structure for the use of the Country in which are held the Assizes and Sessions he made the Castle formerly built by William the Conqueror which was quite gone to Ruin very useful again and magnificent besides all this he gave some new Fellowships and Exhibitions to St. Peter's-College in Cambrige where himself had been Master He expended vast Sums of Money in publick Benevolences to the King in redeeming Christian Captives at Algiers in relieving the distressed Loyal Subjects and in many other publick and pious Uses So that both the City and Country have sufficient reason gratefully to remember him and to wish that such Prelates may continually succeed him who may approve themselves such Worthy Fathers of the Church such Noble Patrons to their Country and such Glorious Pillars of Religion Some three or four Miles distance from this Place is Binchester Binchester now a small Village of little repute save for its relicts of old Walls and pieces of Roman Coin often digged up here called Binchester Pennies by which it appears to have been formerly an eminent Station of the Romans though now 't is nothing but a rude heap of Rubbish And about the same distance from Binchester stands Durham the most flourishing and principal City of this Province Durham is a City whose Situation is upon Hills and bottoms of Hills Durham and all surrounded with Hills but the lower parts watered by the River Ware which encircles the best part of it and over which there are two Stone Bridges so that it is a Peninsula which Dunholme a name by which it was formerly called doth denote for the Saxons called an Hill Dun and a River-Island Holme from whence the Latins have made Dunelmum the Normans Duresme and the Commonalty corruptly Durham The Town is pretty large but of no great Beauty nor seems to bear any considerable stamp of Antiquity but to have received its first Original from the distressed Monks of Lindisferne who being driven thence by the Fury of the Danes came hither with the Body of St. Cuthbert which they preserved with great care and honoured with the greatest Veneration imaginable at which time the See being removed hither by Bishop Aldwin A. D. 995. he built a small Oratory of wreathen Wands and Hurdles over the Body of St. Cuthbert on the South-side of the City which continued for some time till William de Careleph pulling down that began a new Foundation which was afterward finished by Ralph his Successor after this
part by the Fruitfulness of the other if in one place 't is craggy and mountainous in another 't is as Rich in Corn and Pasture and where the Woods do not shade in Summer and make some provision for its Inhabitants against the Winter she provides other kind of Fuel for them within the Bowels of the Earth and by dispersing such varieties all over it renders it a very grateful and delectable Country Ouse and Humber The Rivers which water it are many but the chief are Ouse and Humber the first of which lodging many Rivolets within itself dischargeth both them and itself into the Humber who carries them all away as Tributaries to the Ocean This River hath a very broad current and rapid Stream it riseth very high when the Tide flows in upon it and when it ebbs the Sea returns back with such a forcible violences that the passage thereby becomes no less rough than dangerous Kingston upon Hull Upon the mouth of this stands Hull so called from the River Hull that runs along by it into the Humber This Town hath been of no long date for King King Edward the First was the Founder of it who viewing well and considering the conveniency of this Place how safe a Harbour it might prove for Ships to ride in made it first an Haven and Borough and granted to the Inhabitants great Privileges and Immunities from whence it received the name of Kingston or King's-Town so that in few Years it arose to that degree of Dignity that for stately buildings for strong Block-houses for well rigged Ships for store of Merchants and abundance of all other necessaries it became the most famous and renowned Town in all these parts Sir Michael Dela-Pole whose Father a most Eminent Merchant was the first Mayor of this place being a great favourite of King Richard the Second's after he was created * This same Nobleman founded here a Carthusian Priory A. D. 1378. as did Walter Shirlane Bishop of Durham a College of Prebendaries A. D. 1400. Mr. Tanner Not. Mon. Earl of Suffolk did prevail with that King to enlarge their Charter and the Inhabitants themselves being very industrious and much addicted to trade for Fish into the Northen Islands did at last heap together in a common Stock so great a Treasure that it enabled them not only to fence the Town with a strong Brick Wall but to strengthen it likewise with Towers and Bulwarks where it was not defended by the River and further brought such quantities of Cobblestones for Ballast to their Ships that therewith they paved all the Streets of the Town which added much comeliness and beauty to its strength and ever since it hath been reputed one of the strongest and most impregnable places in this Nation for 't is not only fortified with a Castle and Block-house to command the Sea but is likewise environed with a double Wall betwixt each of which are large Trenches and hath several great Sluces so conveniently contrived that the Flood-gates being once pulled up they can drown all the Country which lies within the compass of three or four Miles In the late Civil Wars the Hothams being deputed Governors of this place kept this Garrison for the Pretended Parliament's Service nor could all the importunity of the King or his Friends prevail with them to surrender it to his Majesty till at last too late recanting their Actions and giving their own Party some cause to suspect their fidelity towards them and their inclinations to be more favourable to the Royal Party Vengeance laid hold upon both Sir John and his Son and being summoned up above when they least thought of Death were sentenc'd to die by their own Friends who having set them on work pay'd them very justly the Wages which they deserved to have received from their injured Sovereign This place of great consequence is now under the Government of his Grace the Duke of Leeds and the Inhabitants are still great Traders to Newfoundland for Fish and Oil and in their Trinity-House which is an Hospital for poor and impotent Persons they shew a little Boat with the Effigies of a Wild Man who they say was found therein many Leagues off at Sea with a huge Jaw bone of a mighty Whale both which they brought with them from the Northern Seas After we had pleased our selves with the various Diversions of this place Beverly we withdrew from hence to a neighbouring Town called Beverly supposed by Cambden to be the Petuaria Parisiorum and is about seven or eight Miles further into tho Country where John de Beverly first of Hexham afterward Arch-Bishop of York a Man of great Learning and Piety having resigned up his Bishoprick came and ended his Life in Solitariness and Contemplation The Memorial of this Holy Man was so reverend and sacred to many Kings of this Island especially to King Athelstan who honoured him as his Tutelary Saint after the greatest Conquest he had obtained over the Danes that for his sake they endowed it with great and singular Privileges and Immunities which it seems Athelstan did afterward enlarge who came hither and offered his Knife at his Tomb For in the Church which is an ancient and goodly Structure built Cathedral-wise is still to be read this Inscription engraven upon the West end of the Quire in old Characters All 's free make I thee As hert may think Or eyh may see On each side of which are placed the Pictures both of King Athelstan and St. John Nor were there only Privileges granted to the Town but even Foreigners did reap great Benefit hereby by reason of an Asylum or Sanctuary which was appointed for Persons who had committed any capital Crime for here formerly stood an old Chair of Stone which by its description did declare as much Haeo sedes lapidea Freed-Stool dicitur i. e. Pacis Cathedra ad quam Reus fugiendo perveniens omnimodam habet Securitatem That is This Chair of Stone is called Freed-Stool that is the Chair of Peace unto which whatsoever Offender fleeth or cometh hath all manner of Security In this Church there are some Monuments of great Note particularly those which are erected in Honour of the Earl of Northumberland who was slain at Chivy Chase in the Conflict with Lord Douglas and of his Lady the Countess over whom is placed on one side the Image of our Saviour Baptizing an Infant and on the other two Angels with our Lord in the middle one of which holds the Cross the Nails and the Hammer which were the cruel Instruments of his Bloody Crucifixion On the East side of the Town was a House of the Trinity belonging to the Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem saith the Notitia Monastica The conflux of Foreigners was not formerly more remarkable here to promote the Merchandize of Rome than it is now by reason of great Fairs and Markets which have been granted to the Town and especially for the great