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A36827 A new voyage to the Levant containing an account of the most remarkable curiosities in Germany, France, Italy, Malta, and Turkey : with historical observations relating to the present and ancient state of those countries / by the Sieur du Mont ; done into English, and adorn'd with figures.; Nouveau voyage du Levant. English Dumont, Jean, baron de Carlscroon, 1667-1727. 1696 (1696) Wing D2526; ESTC R9818 264,606 436

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that one wou'd think might have been fully decided by so many repeated Experiments for I see no reason to believe that our Country-Women are fram'd after another manner than the rest of their Sex But leaving this Controversie to be decided by others who are better acquainted with the Works of Nature I shall proceed in the Account I promis'd to give you of the most remarkable Graecian Customs among which I cannot forbear taking notice of one that seems to be peculiar to this Nation On Easter-Day and during the three following Weeks they salute one another with three Kisses one on the Mouth and one on each Cheek at the same time repeating these Words Christos anesti that is Christ is risen At other times their familiar Salutation is the same with that which is us'd by the Turks But when they design to shew a more than ordinary Respect to a Man they kiss his Hand and then lay it upon their Heads They observe the same Custom when they receive a Present if it be not either too heavy or bulky For this Ceremony of laying a Man's Hand upon their Head is a Mark both of their Respect and Gratitude When a Woman accompanies her Husband in a Visit to a Person of Quality such as a Consul whether they come to treat of Bus'ness or only out of Civility she stands directly behind her Husband and when the Visiter brings his Daughters along with him they place themselves at one another's Back behind their Mother so that the Husband standing in the Front of the File hides all his Female Train and when they intend to go out they make a half-Turn to the Right and the Daughters march out first to avoid the Indecency of appearing in a Stranger 's Presence In pursuance of the Method I propos'd to follow I shall in the next place consider their Religion I 'm oblig'd to my Friend the Archbishop for the following Account which perhaps will give you a clearer Idea of this Subject than you can draw from the Relations of others For there are some who pretend that the Greeks are only Schismaticks or bare Separatists from the Romish Church whereas others stretch the Point too far on the other side and make their Differences in matter of Doctrine appear greater and more irreconcilable than they really are They acknowledge only One visible Church of God without which there is no Salvation unless in the Case of a sudden Conversion at the Hour of Death They believe that the Apostles instituted five Patriarchs to govern the Church upon the Earth who were seated at Rome Alexandria Constantinople Antioch and Jerusalem and under them several Archbishops Bishops and inferiour Pastors All the Members of this Hierarchy have a Right to exercise a Spiritual Jurisdiction over those that are subordinate to 'em and to inflict Ecclesiastical Censures But the Patriarchs can only admonish one another and can neither be punish'd nor depos'd for their Offences but by the Sentence of a General Council Yet their Power does not extend so far as to enable 'em to introduce new Laws into the Church and they wou'd be laught at if they shou'd attempt to grant Indulgencies The Bishop of Rome is the first of the Patriarchs nor do any of the rest pretend to dispute with him for Precedency But they refuse to submit to that absolute Power he has assum'd in the West by taking Advantage of the Superstition and Simplicity of the People and the Connivance of the Princes 'T is plain that the Greek Bishops had Reason to refuse their Consent to the Introduction and Establishment of a Tyrannical Power in the Church since they cou'd not but foresee that it wou'd produce very fatal and pernicious Consequences And yet this is the only Cause that made the Pope discharge his Thunders against 'em and declare 'em Schismaticks thus violently breaking the sacred Union of the Church for the Preservation of which he ought to have spent the last Drop of his Blood For this reason the Greeks are not contented with returning the Charge of Schism upon the Roman Church but pretend that they never actually separated from the Communion of Rome since they have not establish'd a Fifth Patriarch and still acknowledge the Pope to be the first Bishop in the World and that therefore they cannot with the least Shadow of Justice be blam'd for the Fault of another or said to separate from a Church which has violently driven 'em out of her Communion I know not whether this is the Opinion of the whole Greek Church tho' I cannot reasonably decline giving Credit to a Thing which I have heard so often confirm'd with repeated Protestations by the Archbishop of Smyrna who is esteem'd one of the most learned Doctors of that Church in this Age. However I took the Liberty to ask him why they did not send their Bishops to the last Councils that were held in the West in which all their Differences might have been amicably terminated He reply'd that their Absence wou'd be easily excus'd by those who consider the Severity of the Yoak under which they groan and that the sending of Deputies to the Councils wou'd have given a terrible Umbrage to the Grand Signior who wou'd have been apt to suspect that these Bishops were sent to contrive a Rebellion against him and to plot the Ruine of his Empire and to deliver himself from the danger of a Revolt might have been easily persuaded to have put the whole Nation under Military Execution This Answer seem'd so reasonable and agreeable to the Truth that I was oblig'd to acknowledge my self intirely satisfy'd Thus I have given a short Account of the Occasion of the fatal Breach that divides the Eastern and Western Churches and of the Reasons alledg'd by the Greeks to free themselves of the Imputation of Schism I shall in the next Place examine the Points of Doctrine in which they differ from the Romans The Difference between these Churches may be reduc'd to five Articles of which only two are Fundamentals For tho' the other three are of considerable Moment they wou'd not be sufficient to excuse a Separation The first is the Procession of the Holy Ghost who in their Opinion proceeds not from the Son but only from the Father To illustrate and confirm this Doctrine the Archbishop told me that the Three Persons of the Trinity were only distinguish'd by their different Operations and Attributes That the Property of the Father was to beget without being begotten That of the Son to be eternally begotten without begetting and that of the Holy Ghost to inspire and sanctifie our Hearts I reply'd That it did not necessarily follow because the Son was begotten that he cou'd not co-operate with the Father in the Procession of the Holy Ghost But he wou'd not acknowledge the force of this Reason pretending that we cou'd not ascribe to the Son the Attribute of Generation that belongs only to the Father without overturning the Order and
as a Fugitive The Galley-Slaves are the most miserable Wretches in the World yet there are some Persons here who have so little regard to their own Happiness as to sell themselves for a hundred Crowns to the Order they continue Slaves during their whole Life without any Pay rowing naked and chain'd as the rest without any other Mark of Distinction than the Title of Bonne Vogue whereas the Turks are call'd Slaves I know there are also some of these voluntary Slaves at Venice where they are call'd Gallioti and even the Republick finds less Difficulty in levying 'em than in raising Soldiers but they are only engag'd to serve three Years on the Galleys whereas the Bonne Vogue at Malta are perpetual Slaves without the least hope of recovering their Liberty There are only seven Galleys belonging to the Order which are sent every Year under the Command of a General to assist the Venetians The Government is constantly employ'd about raising new Funds without which they cannot encrease the Number of their Galleys There are Three Languages spoken in the City the French Spanish and Italian The last of these is authoriz'd by the Government and us'd in publick Writings The Peasants in the Country speak a corrupt Dialect of the Arabic and 't wou'd not be an easie Task to make 'em leave it The Holy Office of the Inquisition that dreadful Tribunal famous for its Injustice and Cruelty reigns more Tyrannically here than at Rome it self I have heard a hundred remarkable Stories of its Barbarity but I 'm too much your Friend to disturb the Tranquillity of your Mind with such dismal Relations And therefore instead of entring on so Melancholic a Subject I shall only observe that Confessors who in any other Country would be burnt if they should divulge the Secrets with which they are intrusted are oblig'd here to reveal 'em as often as the Inquisition is concern'd in the Discovery 'T is true they do not own this Maxim for fear of spoiling their Trade but the Truth of it is too well known to be call'd in question In the mean time to prevent Suspicion they are sometimes silent for a Year or two after which the Inquisitor sends for the Party accus'd and asks him whether he knows the reason why he is brought before him Then must the poor Wretch call to mind all that ever he said and if he has either forgot his Fault or refuses to own it confiding in the Secrecy and Fidelity of his Confessour whom he knows to be his only Confident he 's a dead Man and must not entertain the least hope of Mercy For they strangle him in Prison and some time after tell his Relations that they may forbear sending him Provisions Happy are they who are not subject to this Yoke I saw a Church t'other day in which there is a little Grotto where 't is said S. Paul liv'd three Months But 't is so small and contriv'd in such a manner that I 'm much enclin'd to suspect the Truth of this Tradition However every one that comes carries away a piece of it as a Preservative against the biting of Serpents And they pretend that by a perpetual Miracle the Rock is never diminish'd I will not dispute the Truth of the Matter of Fact tho' I can assure you that there are visible Gaps or Notches in the Rock and that they still continue to break off Pieces of it But supposing it to be as big as ever I see no reason why we shou'd have recourse to a Miracle on this Occasion since 't is generally acknowledg'd that there are some Rocks which grow naturally till they be separated from their Roots And our Mariners who are no very able Philosophers show'd me one in our Voyage hither which is commonly call'd the Brothers and why may not S. Paul●s Grotto be of the same Nature But this is not the only Miracle in Malta They tell us that there are no Serpents in the Island and wou'd have us believe that this Privilege was the Effect of a Viper's biting the same Apostle as you may read in the Acts of the Apostles For my part I must confess I 'm as little satisfy'd with this Sotry as with the other for some Persons assure me that there are Serpents in Malta But supposing there were none I had occasion to mention another Island in my last which may boast of the same Advantage and why shou'd the Miracle be greater here than at Guernsey where t is certain there is neither Toad Scorpion nor any other Venomous Creature And which adds to the Wonder I know that the Governour who is a Curious Person having order'd some of those Animals to be brought to the Island they dy●d immediately I 'm confident if the Roman-Catholicks were Masters of that Island they wou●d make some Saint the Author of this Privilege which might perhaps be pretended with less improbability to be the effect of a supernatural Cause than at Malta since the Island of Jersey which is but seven Leagues distant from Guernsey is so extremely pester'd with Serpents and Toads that the Houses are full of 'em and none of the Peasants dare lie upon the Ground This I doubt not will seem strange to you but you will be stil● more surpriz'd when I have told you that it rains Toads in this Island If you suspect the Truth of this odd Phaenomenon you may receive a Confirmation of it from any Man that has been upon the Place Nature is so Mysterious and Unsearchable in her Operations and Men are generally so apt to admire what they cannot comprehend that their Inclination to ascribe surprizing Events to supernatural Causes may be justly reckon'd an effect of their Ignorance I 'm so fully persuaded of this Truth that I seldom or never take Notice of those Miracles that make so great a Noise in the Countreys thro' which I have occasion to pass And besides since I have reason to believe that such Stories wou'd not contribute much to your Diversion I 'm resolv'd to trouble you with none of 'em unless they be either very extraordinary or extremely ridiculous I hope my next Letter shall be dated from Constantinople for we intend to set sail to Morrow I am SIR Your c. Malta June 1690. LETTER XII SIR WE sail'd from Malta June ... and leaving Sicily on our Left-hand enter'd the Archipelago After a Voyage of fifteen Days without any remarkable Disturbance we arriv'd at the Height of Troy and our Vessel standing in to Tenedos both by reason of the contrary Wind and to take in some fresh Provisions I took this Occasion to visit the Ruines of that famous City which are at present so obscure and inconsiderable that unless a Man's Mind were full of the Idea of it he might view it all over without perceiving the least reason to conclude that ever any Town stood in that place Yet by a Curious Search an inquisitive Traveller may find enough to convince him
Waggon Boat Horses nor any other convenient Carriage If your Affairs oblige you to undertake a Journey tho' not above 100 Leagues you must wait three Months for a Caravan which after all will not Travel above four Leagues a day and carry no other Provisions but Rice Bisket and Salt Beef on which you must make a shift to live and encamp every Night till you arrive at your Journies end where if you have not the conveniency of Lodging with a particular Friend 't will be in vain to enquire for the King's-Head the White-Cross or the Golden-Lyon You must e'en creep into a Han with a hundred Wretches whose Brutishness is altogether insupportable and reckon your self happy when ye can find such a Lodging which after all is better than Encamping with the Caravan You will perhaps think it impossible to represent a more frightful Idea of Travelling but I can assure you that all these Inconveniencies are not comparable to those which they who Travel to Persia or cross the Desarts of Arabia must resolve to undergo They must Travel six Months together expos'd to all the Inconveniencies of bad Weather and for the most part in burning Sand where there is neither a Stalk of Grass nor a Spring to quench their Thirst Besides they are perpetually in danger of being surpriz'd by the Arabs who rob and kill all that come in their way But all these Incommodities may be either more easily avoided or supported than those terrible Distempers that usually seize European Travellers who are not accustom'd to such hot Climates and fatiguing Journeys I shall take this occasion to relate a Story of one of my Friends who return'd not long ago from Poland whither he went about the beginning of the last Year by the King's Order in the quality of an Interpreter with Monsieur de Chateauneuf's Chancellor call'd Beauchesne He was seiz'd by the way with a violent Fever and Looseness which brought him so low and made him so troublesome to the Caravan-Bachi or Captain of the Caravan that his Companions wou'd have left him to perish without assistance if that Officer had not been afraid to run the hazard of offending the Ambassador yet he assur'd me that all their respect to Monsieur Chateauneuf cou'd not have protected him if the Fever had seiz'd on his Head and so made him incapable of sitting on Horseback But these are not the only disadvantages which Travellers suffer in this Country they are expos'd to a thousand other vexatious Accidents and are constantly plagu'd with the Brutish Humours of the Camel-drivers We are wont to complain of the Sawciness of Carriers and Coach-men but I assure you they wou'd be reckon'd very mild and tractable in this Country where every Camel-driver is as haughty as a Lord and the poor Traveller must keep in his Post under pain of a Bastanado which he must take very patiently for if he shou'd offer to return the Blow I wou'd not ensure his Life for all the Money in the Caravan I thought my self oblig'd to give you a faithful Account of all these Inconveniencies which most Travellers study to conceal that if any of your Friends have a mind to undertake the same Voyage they may at least have the advantage of knowing what they are to expect which they cou'd not have done if I had only given you a view of the pleasant and bright side of a Traveller's Entertainment For my part I must confess I had so strong an Inclination to Travelling that I know not whether I shou'd have stopt on this side China if I had not met with so many discouraging Rubs But my Curiosity is wonderfully abated of late and I 'm so perfectly cur'd of my gadding Humor that I 'm resolv'd to confine my self hereafter to Europe and to Travel only in such Places where I may find at least a piece of Beef and a pair of clean Sheets at Night Since I had occasion to mention Beauchesne's Journey to Poland 't will not be improper to give you a short account of the cause of it The Turks being informed of the great Losses which the French sustain'd during the Campaign of 1689. and of the ill-fortune that attended His Majesty's Arms in Flanders where the Mareschal D' Humiere was unsuccessful in the only attempt he made began to give less credit to the French Ambassador's smooth Harangues and to desire a Peace with the Emperour The Grand Visier spoke of it several times to Sir William Trumbal and Monsieur Collier the English and Dutch Ambassadors and sent Orders to His Master's Envoys at Vienna to hasten the desir'd Accommodation And certainly the Grand Signior had reason to wish for a Peace for his Affairs were in a very hopeless condition At the beginning of the Campaign his Troops suffer'd a considerable disadvantage in Croatia where they lost above 2000 Men with several Ensigns and the Bassa who Commanded ' em The Prince of Baden afterwards Routed 'em thrice in three memorable Battels and they saw themselves expos'd to all the Insults of the Imperialists who talk'd of nothing less than of Besieging Constantinople Temeswaer Canissa and Waradin the only places they possest in Hungary were closely Block'd up without any hope of Relief Thus 't was plainly the Interest of the Turks to accept of the Proposals that were made by their Victorious Enemies But the King's Interest was on this occasion directly opposite to that of his Allies He dreaded the fatal consequences of such a Resolution and left no means unessay'd to prevent its taking effect He cajol'd the Grand Signior more than ever and flatter'd him with the hope of making a separate Peace with the Polanders since they had already enter'd into a Negotiation with the Tartars and had sent Deputies for that effect to Count Tekeli who was to perform the Office of a Mediator between ' em This Stratagem produc'd the desir'd effect and the Turk was the more easily deluded because he knew that not long before there happen'd a sort of Quarrel between the Courts of Poland and Vienna For the Emperor had granted his Protection to the Moldavians and on that score was to receive the same Tribute which they formerly paid to the Turks The King of Poland pretended a right to that Province as an ancient Fief of his Crown But the Emperor wou'd not give him any satisfaction and even refus'd to answer the Polish Ambassador's Remonstrances on that subject In the mean time the French and Turkish Ambassadors at the Court of Poland were not idle Spectators of so favourable a Juncture they endeavour'd to foment the difference and Beauchesne was dispatch'd thither with several Instructions both from the King his Master and from the Grand Visier But all their Negotiations were unsuccessful for they cou'd not prevail with the King of Poland to break his Confederacy with the Emperor I will not trouble you with an Apology for the length of this digression into which the way of