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A07323 A declaration of the estate of clothing now vsed within this realme of England 1 The royaltie and benefit of wooll and woollen cloth. 2 The condition of the makers, being two sorts. 3 The antiquitie and power of the alneger. 4 The manner of search and searchers, now vsed. 5 The seuerall faults and abuses practised in cloth. 6 The inconuenience and hurt by the abuses. 7 The remedie to be made by the alnegers prouision. VVith an apologie for the alneger, shewing the necessarie vse of his office. Written by Iohn May, a deputie alneger. May, John, fl. 1613. 1613 (1613) STC 17710; ESTC S120174 26,796 60

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sale there he must giue credit to those hee neuer saw and such as neither liue in his religion nor Law he must abide to answer all defects found where our owne Laws shal be alledged to punish them who before was not priuie to the offence If they escape confiscation yet shall they be sure of intollerable abatements with bad words and shamefull reproches they must stand to the honesty of their factors which often proue false and the daunger of the Countrie often subject to change These and many other casualties causeth cares to abridge his rest and keepes him waking when others sleepe euerie stormie wind breedes his feare and euerie flying report makes him doubtfull and not without great cause seeing so many fall so lainly to the vtter ouerthrow not onely of themselues but diuers other depending vpon them like to the fall of a mightie Tree which crusheth downe the vnder shrubs about him so farre as his fall did reach Therefore the chiefe remedie to preuent much of this mischiefe is to deale in loyall and perfect commodities which will with credit abide his time for Market when the other by long lying looseth still both in goodnes and credit procuring hastie bargains that brings after repentance In Prouinces beyond the bounds of Christendome God is blasphemed our Religion reuiled and our people mistearmed in beastly manner when a Turke or Infidell brusheth his garment bare that he may number the threeds and find it to haue feeling fence to runne in at a wet showre or a hot Iron then our Christian profession is called in question by those prophane people who measure our faith by our works In kingdomes nere vs these abuses haue been found so odious and their people so much wronged that they haue made lawes and edicts to banish our cloth out of their coūtries rather desiring our wools wherewith they can make true commodities This hath set diuers coūtries on work in making of cloth which serueth those places of traffike where we did vse to commerce diuers workemen haue gone out of this Land to make vse of their practise and liuing there where they are intertained and daily increase In our owne Countrie where much of our Wooll may bee vented the falshood of clothing is so common that euerie one striueth to weare any thing rather than cloth if a gentleman make a liuerie for his man in the first showre of raine it may fit his Page for bignesse and for the colours and other conditions in it after a moneths wearing it will looke like a souldiers coat which hath line sixe moneths out of garrison It hath bin knowne that a poore man getting so much money together with care and trauell as would buy him a suit of cloth and taking his Taylor with him who seeing the cloth hath justly told him how much would serue to make his Ierkin and breeches which he hath bought accordingly afterwards counceld by that Taylor to cast his Cloth in the water to make it more seruiceable which he so doing hath quite lost his Ierkin and hauing no more money was forced to goe cold all winter in his vpper parts this in some degree may be accounted sacriledge to rob the poore what are the inconueniences that are drawne on by these meanes first indignitie to our king whose seale is fixt on this cloth iniurie to our nation that workes abuse on this cloth infamie to our selues that weare some part of this Cloth and vtter ruine of all benefits which should arise by this cloth It is high time to looke out when the fire hath caught hold of the house end if it be not preuented by quenching it will soone consume to the ground and it is doubtfull whether these enormities are incurable or no the plant of falshood is grown so great and antient that it may be supposed rather to breake than bend but extraordinarie means and paines must be applied to the cause which may be recouered by good industrie CHAP. VII The remedie to be made by the Alnegers prouision AS this full growne euill hath now procured a daungerous hurt so hath it verie happily falne out in a time which can afford an especiall remedie When this kingdome was diuided amongst seuen kings it was vnder a strange gouernement when there was twise seuen Alnegers in the realme there was neither law nor order obserued amongst thē but all they sought was gaine and how to intrude into each others benefit if a Clothier or offender were interrupted in his falshood within one Countie he could freely exercise the same in another where he should be willingly receiued because he augmented that Alnegers profit But now thankes be to God wee liue vnder one gratious Prince who ordaines no diuersitie of Lawes but hath prouided one order of gouernement for all So that ill diuided office of Alnage which ran to ruine in many hands is now reduced into one worthie mans hands which hath not only power to command but also will to performe all meanes and courses which may tend to the reformation of this grieuous enormitie In this busines many hands must bee imployed whose worke may seeme harsh to those which shall be put out of their wonted course But it is not their content that is sought vnto a generall good euerie perticular help must bee applied heere must bee more paines in the Alneger more care and truth in the workman and more trouble to the clothier but all to a good and profitable end The first thing to bee looked vnto is the condition of the clothiers and makers of cloth stuffes and commodities belonging to this gouernment which at this time is much differing from law or order many of them vnexperienced and vsurpers of the trade who not being masters thereof through want of knowledge commit most of these abuses And whereas the law prouides that none which professe those trades should bee admitted vnder seuen yeares seruice in apprentiship diuers do come into the same with a moneths practize and cloies the Kingdome with defectiue commodities beggering themselues and hurting those which should liue by the same These people for the most part dwelling in obscure places neuer bringing their commodities to search or seale nor yeelding any duetie liue rather like outlawes than subiects There is a petition vnto the Kings Maiestie extant from the best clothiers and makers in diuers parts to this purpose who craue a corporation for the amendment of this which were pittie but it should be graunted confidering how many inferiour trades enioies such priuiledge that gouerne their companies in good sort and order If this were accomplished the better halfe of this great taske were finished and great hope that our generall Alneger will procure it beeing so good an assistance to worke the reformation which lies on his charge The dispersing of clothiers and makers is a principall cause to breed these defects whereas the lawe ordaines that clothing shall not bee vsed but in a citie borough or market