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A16659 The English gentlevvoman, drawne out to the full body expressing, what habilliments doe best attire her, what ornaments doe best adorne her, what complements doe best accomplish her. By Richard Brathvvait Esq. Brathwaite, Richard, 1588?-1673.; Marshall, William, fl. 1617-1650, engraver. 1631 (1631) STC 3565; ESTC S122488 147,901 276

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mee towards him that Coniugall duty mixt with all affability may winne him Againe is he old His age shall beget in mee more reuerence his words shall be as so many aged and time-improued precepts to informe me his actions as so many directions to guide me his rebukes as so many friendly admonitions to reclaime mee his bed I will honour no vnchaste though● shall defile it his Counsell I will keepe no forraine brest shall partake it I will bee a staffe to him in his age to support him an eye to direct him an hand to help him his Substance I will not scatter on a youthfull Louer but serue him still whom I haue vow'd to honour Againe is he rich Much good may it doe him this shall not make me proud my desire shall be he may imploy it for his best aduantage I will moue him to communicate vnto the needy that his riches may make him truly happy It is a miserable state that starues the owner I will perswade him to enioy his owne and so auoyd basenesse to reserue a prouident care for his owne and shunne profusenesse Againe is hee poore His pouerty shall make me rich there is no want where there wants no content This I shall enioy in him and with him which the world could not afford mee liu'd I without him It hath beene an old Maxime that as pouerty goes in at one doore loue goes out at the other but this rule shall neuer direct my thoughts should pouerty enthrall me it shall neuer appall me my affection shall counterpoize all affliction No aduersity can d●uide mee from him to whom my vowed faith hath indiuidually ti'd me In a word is hee wise He shall be my Thales Is he follish I will by all meanes couer his weakenesse as I am now made one with him so will I haue mine equall share in any aspersion that shall be throwne on him Thus if you expostulate your Christian constant resolues shall make you truly fortunate Your Fancy is on deliberation grounded which promiseth such success● as your Marriage-dayes shall neuer feare the bitter encounter of vntimely repentance nor the curelesse anguish of an afflicted Conscience THe selfe-same rule which Augustus was said to obserue in his choice and constant retention of friends Fancy is to be with constancy retained are you Gentlewomen to apply to your selues in the choice of your second-selues He was slow in entertaining but most constant in retaining Fauorites are not to be worne like fauours now in your hat or about your wrist and presently out of request Which to preuent entertaine none to lodge neere your heart that may harbor in his brest ought worthy your hate Those two Motto's I would haue you incessantly to remember for the vsefull application of them may highly conduce to your honour The one is that of Caia Tranquilla which she euer vsed to her royall Spouse Caius Tarquinius Priscus Where th●● art Caius I am Caia The other that of Ruth vnto Naomi Whither thou goest I will goe and where thou dwellest I will dwell There is no greater argument of lightnesse then to affect the acquaintance of strangers and to entertaine variety of Suiters These as they distract the eye so they infect the heart Constant you cannot be where you professe so long as you affect change Vowes deliberately aduised and religiously grounded are not to be dispenc'd with But say you neuer vowed haue you made outward professions of loue and entertained a good opinion of that obiect in your heart Againe are you resolued that his affection is reall towards you That his protests though deliuered by his mouth are engrauen in his heart Let not so much good loue be lost insult not ouer him whom vnfained affection hath vow'd your seruan Let Wolues and beasts be cruell in their kindes But Women meeke and haue relenting mindes It were too much incredulity in you to distrust where you neuer found iust cause of distaste Yea but you will againe obiect we are already by your owne Obseruations sn●ficiently instructed that Fancy is to be with ●eliberation grounded that loue lightly laid on lasts not long Should we then affect before we finde ground of respect Should wee entertaine a Rhetoricall Louer whose protests are formal Complements and whose promises are gilded pills which couer much bitternesse No I would not haue you so credulous lest your Nuptiall day become ominous Make true triall and experiment of his Constancy who tenders his seruice to you Sift him if you can finde any branne in him Taske him before you take him Yet let these be sweetly tempred with lenity Let them not be Taskes of insuperable difficulty This were to tyrannize where you should loue This was Ompha●es fault to make her faithfull seruant a seruile slaue Alas shall hee fare the worse because hee loues you This would induce others who take notice of your cruelty to loath you And make your discarded louer surprized with an amorous distemper to reply as Absal●m to Hushai Is this thy kindnesse to thy friend My counsell is that as it will be vsefull for you to deliberate before you take so much as the least Notions of an affectionate Seruant yea and to second that deliberation with some probable proofe or triall that hee is truly constant so it will be a gratefull office in you to retaine him in your fauour with a gracious respect to countenance the improuement of his constancy with a cheerefull and amiable aspect to banish all clowds of seeming discontent and to giue him some modest expressions of the increase of your good Conceit towards him Let this be done till Hymen make you indiuidually one Then and neuer till then may Loue enioy her full freedome She stands priuiledg'd by a sacred rite to taste that fruit which before was forbidden Mutuall respects like so many diametrall lines pointing all to one Centre are then directed to one exquisite obiect the purity of loue which produceth this admirable effect it makes one soule rule two hearts and one heart dwell in two bodies Now I would haue you when your desires are drawne to this period to become so taken with the loue of your choyce as to interpret whatsoeuer hee shall doe euer to the best sense It were little enough that you retained a good opinion of him who stands in so many seuerall ingagements obliged for you Should your riot bring him into debt his restraint must make you free D●rance must be his suit while better stuffe makes you a Coate Yea what Conscience is there in it but hee should receiue an affable and amiable respect from you seeing if your Consci●nce be no Conformalist he must pay for you These respects should perpetually tye you to honour him who becomes so legally ty'd for you Requite these then with constancy and retaine this ensuing Example euer in your memory Theogena wife to Agathocles shew'd admirable constancy in her husbands greatest misery shewing her selfe most his
little scantling this moment shorter than nothing in too curiously attiring of vanity but in meditating of your owne frailty and redeeming the time you haue lost in security As Apparell was ordained for necessity vse it with Christian ciuility In obseruing this you make the vse good which shall hereafter redound to your greater gaine O But the misery and leuity of this age is such The Abuse of Apparell as that becomes generally least aff●cted which adornes vs most that valued most which beseemes vs least Time was indeed and may that time once re-shine vpon vs when the onely flower to beloued of women was a natiue red which was shamefastnesse The face knew not then what painting was whose adulterate shape takes now acquaintance from the Shop Then were such women matter of scan●dall to Christian eyes which vsed painting their skinne powdring their hayre darting their eye Our Commerce with forraine Nations was not for fashions feathers and follies There was distinction in our attires differences of ranks and qualities a ciuill obseruance of decent habits which conferred no lesse glory on our Ile at home than victorious mannagements by the prowesse of our Inhabitants did abroad If we reflect on them wee must of necessity blush at our selues seeing what wee haue receiued for vse we haue conuerted to abuse That distinction which decency found out for habits vi●ile and feminine what commixture hath it found in latter times What neare resemblance and relation hath womans to mans suting their light feminine skirts with manlike doublets Semiramis that victorious Princesse commanded all to weare Tyres vpon their heads and to put vpon them womans apparell without distinction that shee might reigne securely without exception Thus the comely habit of modesty became a pretended vaile to an vsurped Soueraignty But these succeeding times haue tyred our women with tyres translating them to a plume of Feathers Fashion is now euer vnder saile the Inuention euer teeming Phantasticke Wits euer breeding More time spent how to abuse time and corrupt licentious youth than how to addresse employment for the one or to rectifie the distempers of the other Take a suruey of all degrees and tell me what vniformity you finde in this particular And to make instance in three seuerall places for to these all others may haue proper relation take a more precise and punctuall perusall of City Court and Countrey and returne me a briefe of your Suruey In the first you shall finde many graue Matrons modest Maids deuout Widdowes but are these all No with these you shall finde a strangely mixt generation Some affecting nothing more than what is most nouell and phantasticke Others enuying what they disdainfully see in others which fashion rather than they will misse they will not sticke to set their honour at sale All or most true Biantines carrying all their wealth about them For the second you shall find amongst many other plants of promising growth and excellent proficience sundry sweet-sented sprigs of Cynnamon whose rinde is worth all the body No discourse can rellish their formall palate but fashion if Eues Kirtle should be now showne them how they would geere their Grandam For the last though it be long ere they creepe into forme hauing once attain'd it they can take vpon them as vnbeseeming a State in a Countrey Pew as if they were Ladies for that yeare and had beene bred in the Art of mincing since their childhood But what are these but such whose expence of time is scarcely valued Sacrificing more houres to their Looking-glasse than they reserue minutes to lament their defects Such whose vertuous thoughts neuer harbour the least conceit that may betray their honour or depraue those more noble parts wherewith they are indowed scorne to drowne their better part in these dregs of sensuality Vertue is their attendant Honour their obiect all inferiour delights their lowest subiects Day by day haue these their taske imposed that the poyson of sloath may be better auoyded No day passeth without a line no action without a limit obseruing the course of that vertuous Mirror of whom it is said In distinct houres she did diuide the day To walke to worke to meditate and pray Much different from this pious resolution was that Libertines impious conclusion who held that none could bee frequently deuout in prayer and fashionably decent in attire Shee bestowed too much time on her Glasse to reserue any for her Lampe Pride had exiled her zeale delicacy of habit sanctity of heart Her day might be easily diuided Shee bestowed the forenoone on her skinne the afternoone on a Play clozing her Euening Lecture with a reere supper and this was her Christian Taske Miserable is the condition of that Creature who so her skin be sleake cares not if her soule be rough So her outward habit be pure and without blemish values little her inward garnish Such an one hath made a firme Contract with vanity clozing her contemptuous age with a fearefull Catastrophe Thus farre haue we discoursed of the effect or abuse it selfe wee are now to treat of those two sources from whence these abuses properly arise to wit Delicacy in being more curious in our Choyce of Apparell than necessity or decency doth require secondly Superfluity in storing more variety and change of rayments than either nature needs or reason would admit were shee not transported with a sensuall affection by giuing way to what vnbounded appetite requires IN the search of any Minerall How the vse of Apparell may be inuerted to abuse we are first to digge for the veine and in the curing of any maleuolent effect we are duely and seriously to inquire the producing cause that by stopping the Spring or source wee may stay the violence of the streame We are then to insist of those two precedent means by which the vse may bee inuerted to abuse and that which of it selfe is approueable if obserued with decency becomes iustly reprehensible by corrupting so necessary and consequent an vse either by delicacy which weakens and effeminates the spirit or by Superfluity which euer darkens the beameling of reason with the Cloud of sense Reproofe touching Apparell may bee occasioned from foure respects First when any one weareth Apparell aboue their degree exceeding their estate in precious attire Whence it is that Gregory saith there be some who are of opinion that the weare of precious or sump●tuous Apparell is no sinne Which if it were no fault the diuine Word would neuer haue so punctually expressed nor historically related how the Rich man who was tormented in hell was cloathed with Purple and Silke Whence we may note that touching the matter or subiect of attire humane curiosity auaileth highly The first stuffe or substance of our garments was very meane to wit Skinne with Wooll Whence it is we read that God made Adam and his wife Coats of Skinnes that is of the Skinnes of dead beasts Afterwards see the gradation of this vanity deriued
friends though torne with extrememe torments would not reueale her partners but bit in sunder her owne tongue and spit it in the Tyrants face Or to instance you in subiects lesse Tragicall but for constancy euery way equall Armenia a noble Lady being bidden to King Cyrus wedding went thither with her husband At night when they were returned home her husband asked her how shee liked the Bridegroome whether shee thought him to bee a faire and beautifull Prince or no Truth sayes shee I know not for all the while I was forth I cast mine eyes vpon none other but thyselfe An excellent Commandresse was this Lady of her affections and no lesse imitable was shee whom we are to instance next for her modest and bashfull couering of her husbands infirmities One of Hiero's enemies reproaching him with a stinking breath went home and questioned his wife why shee told him not thereof who answered She thought all men had the same sauour Without question there is nothing that addes more true glory to a woman or better preserues her esteeme than to retaine a constancy in the quality or disposition of her estate Be she young or old let her fame liue euer fresh and like greene Baye● most flourishing when the winter of ●duersi●y is most nipping Vertue cannot exercise her owne strength nor expresse her owne worth without an Opposite Spices send forth the sweetest smell when they are most bruised and Palmes spread the broadest when they are soarest pressed Resolution without an assailant would in time become effeminate Yet I must tell you it is dangerous to tempt either youth or age with motiues of fancy or to giue least way to a promising opportunity You shall finde secret assacinates enough to vndermine you you need little to become your owne betrayers I haue heard of a noble Lady in my time whose descent and desert equally proclaime her worth so tender of the esteeme of her honour as shee held it scarce safe to receiue any Letter from a great Personage whose reputation was touched by rumour This was the way to preserue her honour impregnably and to reare it aboue the reach of Calumny Neither are you to be cautelous onely of your Estimation in subiects of loue and affection but euen in your domesticke affaires which trench vpon your prouidence or expence Your discretions in these are brought to the Stage Let not profusenesse draw you to spend where honest prouidence bids you ●pare nor nigg●rdlinesse cause you to spare where reputation bids you spend She deserues not to be gouernesse of an house who wants discretion to moderate her expence Let her reflect vpon her progeny intend her charge and prouide for her family A good wife is compared to a wise Merchant who brings his trafficke from a farre Now a wise Merchant will not haue his Oare in euery mans Boate but will seriously addresse his care to his owne Busie women would make ill S●ayles and worse housewiues straglers will neuer become good house-keepers To cloze this branch so compose your affections at home and abroad as prouidence may expresse your care and charge in the one a graue and reserued reuerence preserue your esteeme in the other As your liues are liues of direction to your selues so should they be arguments of instruction vnto others Be you planted in what state soeuer let your good report be your greatest stake for euer so may you reape what your vertues haue deserued and keepe your Estimation impregnably preserued NOne can preserue what he loues How Estimation may be irreparably lost by mixing it with the society of that he loathes The Iuye while it windes and wreathes it selfe about the Plant with an enuious consumption dec●yes the sappe If you be companions to Ostridges you shall sauour of the wildernesse Socrates called Enuy an impostume of the soule so may euery corrupt affection be properly tearmed Vices loue neighbourhood which like infectious maladies do euer most hurt when they draw nearest the heart There is nothing Gentlewomen that brings your Honour to a more desperate hazard then giuing reines to your owne desires These must you subdue to the soueraignty of reason if you expect rest in your inward mansion What better fruits then ignominy may carnall liberty produce When you make the Theatre your chiefest place of repose phantasticke gallants who neuer yet conuerst with vertue your choisest consorts delicious viands seruants to your liquorish appetites what conclusion may wee expect from such dangerous premises when modesty puts off her vaile and vanity begins to ruffle it in sinne when chaste desires are chac'd out a breath and lightnesse pleads prescription when vermillion h 'as laid so deepe a colour on an impudent skinne as it cannot blush with sense of her owne shame when Estimation becomes a word of Complement or carelesly worne like some ouer-cast raiment valued as painted Pageants doe guilded Puppets onely for shew What prodegy fuller of wonder then to see a woman thus transform'd from nature Her face is not her owne note her complexion her eye is not her owne note her straid motion her habit is not her owne eye her strange fashion Whilest loose weares imply light workes and thin cobwebbe couers promise free admittance to all sensuall louers Yea which is more she holds it no shame to glory in sinne nor to court vice in her owne liuery all which she maintaines to be complements of gentility Thus vice is euer in fashion and keepes her gradation till she aspire to the height of her building She begins with conceit seconds it with consent strengthens it with delight and incorporates it with custome One of this ranke haue I oft-times obserued tracing the streets of this flourishing City who as one weary of her sexe forbore not to vnwoman her selfe by assuming not onely a virile habit but a virago's heart Quarrels she would not sticke to binde vpon any fresh-water Souldier whose late induction to the siedge of Gallants had not sufficiently inform'd him in that posture Nothing desir'd she more then to ●iue ●●●ronts in publike places which she did with that contempt as the disgrace she aspers'd on others was her sole content Places of frequent were her Rendeuon where her imperious tongue runne descant on euery subiect ministred her selfe she vsually ingaged for a Second vpon least occasion offred Now could these courses any way choose but cause that to be irreparably lost which by any modest woman should be incomparably lou'd Tell me were not his spirit armou● of proofe who durst encounter with so couragious an Amazon or enter nuptiall lists with such a feminine Myrmidon Surely these as they labour to purchase them opinion of esteeme by their vnwomanly expressions of valour so they eclypse their owne fame and by these irregular affronts detract high●y from their e●●entialst honour Such may gaine them obs●ruance but neuer esteeme Take heede then lest publique rumour brand you Scandall is more apt to disperse what is ill then