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A49620 The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant. Lassels, Richard, 1603?-1668.; S. W. (Simon Wilson) 1670 (1670) Wing L465; ESTC R2418 265,097 737

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each hand both which are full of curious bookes both manuscripts and printed bookes diuers of which were showne me with great ciuility by Monsignor Holstenius then keeper of this Library whom I had formerly knowne The chief of these bookes were these A vast Hebrew Bible too heauy for any man to lift vp An ancient copie of the Septuagints translation in Greek after which the Bible hath been printed both in Rome and London The Acts of the Apostles in Greek curiously written in golden letters The Ghospel written by S. Chrysostoms owne hand An Hebrew Bible written in sheets of parchment pasted to one another and rowled vp hence the word Volumen for a booke A little booke written in barke of trees hence the word folium for a leaf in a booke Certain old Roman Table bookes A China Tablebooke of wood in which they wrote with a pointed steele A curious China booke all in Hieroglyphs and folded vp in many folds our Purchas in his curious nauigations hath both printed and deciphered it Polidor Virgils history of England written with his owne hand An old booke of Sermons in Latin in whose margin S. Thomas of Aquin had made notes with his owne hand An old Virgil with the pictures of the history in old painting An old Terence written twelue hundred yeares a goe and the ancientest that euer Politian saw as he testifyeth vnder his owne hand in the inside of the couer of this booke Baronnius his Annals in his owne hand writeing The rare quotations out of the ancient Fathers painfully and faithfully collected out of the best copies by learned Cardinal Sirleto in the time of the Council of Trent and sent by him weekly by the Poste from Rome to the Fathers in the Council who proceeded to their definitions by the ancient tradition of the Church found so plainly and vnanimously in those Fathers Those quotations make six Volumes in folio and this was it which out aduersaryes call the sending downe of the Holy Ghost to Trent in a cloak-bag when it was onely the seding downe of these faithfull testimonies of the Tradition of the Church gathered out of the most ancient and authentick copies The letters of Henry the VIII of England to Anne Bolen his mistresse then in his owne hand writeing Some in English some in French but all amatory It is easy to imagine them written by him if you compare the hand-writing of these letters with those two Verses written by the Kings owne hand in the frontispice of the following Booke to wit The booke which the sayd Henry wrotte against Martin Luther and dedicated it by a couple of Latin verses written with is owne hand in the Frontispice of it to Pope Leo the tenth which booke purchased to King Henry the honorable title of defender of the faith Then I was showne the Library of the Duke of Vrbin who dyeing without heires male bequeathed his Library to the Vatican Library here In this I saw many rare manuscripts written in parchment and painted in miniature especialy that booke in whose margins are painted by a rare hand and wonderfull diligence all the insects in nature in their liuely colours and true resemblance Ouer against this Library they shewed me in the same roome the Library of Heidelberg sent to Rome by the Duke of Bauaria after he had dispossessed the Elector Frederick Prince Palatin of Rhein of his country as well as of the kingdome of Bohemia which he had seazed on at the instigation of Bethleem Gabor and others See the Mercure François They shewed me here among diuers other bookes the booke of designes of the sayd Prince Elector Palatin which he had designed being yong Happy Prince if he had not designed to himself an other mans crowne In the great roome of this Library there is an iron dore which leteth you into a more secret roome where the Registers of the Church of Rome are kept the keeper of which Registers was anciently called Chartularius an office much like to that in the Greek Church called Cartophylax In fine I was showne here diuers letters of great persons and Princes written with their owne hands as of S. Charles Boromaeus to Cardinal Sirleto who had had a hand in his education of Queen mary of England of King Philip the second of Spayne hir husbād stileing himselfe King of Spayne England and France of Francis the First of France of Margaret of Parma that Gouerned Flanders when it reuolted of President Vargas a Spaniard and a great statesman in Flanders but no great Latinist as it appeared by his answer to the Doctors of Louain petitioning him in Latin for their priuiledges when he se sayd Non curamus vostros priuilegios Mali faxerunt templa boni nihil faxerunt contra ergo debent omnes patibulari the tearmes of the expostulation being as harsh as the Conclusion of it and some old polite Orators had rather haue been hangd indeed then threatened in such bad Latin A little before I went out of this Library I sawe neere the dore the Statue of Hippolitus Bishop of Portua who liued 1400 yeares ago sitting in a chair of stone vpon which is cut in Greek letters the ancient Canon Paschalis vpon which Scaliger and others haue written It s a curious peece of learned antiquity and worthy to he taken notice of 16. Hauing seen the Library we were led on by the long Gallery mentioned before vnto the Beluedere were we descended into the Popes priuate garden full of orange trees fine walkes and fountains Here are three or four vnauoidable wetting places to those that are not acquainted with them Henc you goe downe to see the rare fountain of the iron ship In this garden I saw the Pineapple of brasse guilt which is as great as three men can fathom about and twice as high as the tallest man can reach Here also stand by it the two great Peacocks of brasse guilt which stood anciently vpon Scipio Affricanus his tombe and are some three or four yeards long 17. From hence we were led hard by to see the Beluedere of the Maschere which Michel Angelo called his Studie It s a squar Court sett with Orange trees in whose walls are great Niches with leaues to them of wood where the choyce statues of the world are conserued vnder lock and key and free from ill weather The chief statues here are these that of the riuer Nilus and that of Tyber both in cumbent postures That of Antinous minion of the Emperor Adrian it s of pure oriental marble and rarely cut that of Cleopatra that of Venus comeing out of a bath that of Commodus the Emperor that of Laocoon and his sonns inuolued about with serpents This statue of Laocoon is the master peece of sculpture That in the middle of the Court of Hercules without armes leggs or head is so rare a trunck that Michel Angelo professed
offer me 50 crownes The honest seruant to shew his innocency shews his masters hand writeing importing 50 crownes Then your masters hand sayd she for haste out shot his intentions I asked him for 5 crownes and more in conscience I cannot take The seruant though he knew his masters generosity yet to take all scruple from the poore woman locked vp his monye and papers and desired the poore woman to go vp with him to the Cardinal againe to cleare this doubt The Cardinal hearing from his seruant the whole passage and that the poore woman was affrayd his hand had been mistaken in writeing 50 crownes instead of 5 t is true sayd he my hand was mistaken indeed and calling for his pen againe as if he would haue corrected the cypher which made the bill 50 he put in an other cypher and so made it 500 crownes reading it now a lowd to his seruant and the poore woman commanding her to bestow her daughter with that money and if it where not enough to come againe to him and he would make it vp A true Roman Charity As for those Charityes which concerne the mind if a Great King of Egypt wrote ouer his Library dore Medicina Animi Physick for the mind here in Rome I finde store of such Physick in Libraryes Colledges Monasteries and deuout companies And first for Libraries you shall finde here beside the Libraries of euery Religious house the incomparable Library of the Vatican of which more below those also of Cardinal Barberin of the Duke of Altemps that of the Sapienza and that of the Augustin● the last two being open to all men euery day with a courteous gentleman to reach you any booke and a learned Manuscript in folio adressing you to the authors that treat of any subiect you desire to be informed of which affords great help to the painfull student Then the Colledges and Seminaries of almost all nations where youths are both fed and bred vp in learning for nothing Adde to this the Variety of Monasterys and Conuents both of men and women where they may hide themselues securely donectranseat iniquitas Then the taking away of yong girles at ten or twelue yeares old from their poore suspected mothers and the bringing them vp vertuously vnder carefull matrons of knowne Vertue till they either choose the Nuptial Flammeum or the sacred Velum Then the Remedies for ill marryed women whose vnaduised choyce marriages being often made for Interest or incompatible humours force to a corporal separation and least such vnfortunate women should either liue incontinently indeed or giue suspicion of it they are prouided here with a house where they liue retiredly vnder Lock and Key till they either reconcile themselues againe to their husbands or vpon iust occasions leaue them for euer Ouer the dore of this house is written Per le donne mal maritate Then the Conuent of Penitent whores that none may perish in Rome who haue a mind to be saued called Sancta Maria Magdalena in Corso where many of those poore Magdelens haue led such penetential liues as the bloody walls of their Celles caused by their frequent disciplining shewed to all Rome in a conflagration of that monastery that Paulus Quintus himself being informed of it would needs be carryed thither to see those bloody chambers from the street and hauing seen them wept for ioye and I can scarce hold from cryeing out O foelix culpa What shall I say of the Congregregation of Aduocats and Attorneis instituted in Rome where they meet once a week to examin poore mens law sutes and either dehort them from proceeding in bad causes or prosecute good causes for them at the cost of this Congregation What shall I say of seueral pious Clergy men especially the good Priests of the Oratory happy in this employment who make it their taske to reconcile disagreeing families and with great zeale and piety exhorte first the one then the other of the partyes interuene between them speake well of the one to the other cleare and take away iealous misvnderstandings and in fine peece againe broken neighbors What shall I say of the four Sermons dayly in the Chiesa noua by the most learned and good Priest of the Oratory who being most of them learned men as Baronius Bosius Iustinianus Renaldus c and able to flye high yet in their sermons stoup to a low pitch and a popular facile way which aymes rather at conuersion then ostentation and doth great good though it make little noyse Dominus in le●i aura What shall I say of the weekly sermon to the Iewes vpon Saturday where they are bound to be present to the number of three hundred and where the Pope entertains a learned Preacher to conuince them out of their owne scriptures and those that are conuerted are prouided for in the Hospital of the Catechumens till they be throughly instructed I haue seen diuers of them baptized What shall I say of the Scholae piae in Rome a company of good Religious men who looke like Iesuits saue onely that they go barefoot in sandals These good Fathers make a profession to teach poore boyes gratis their first grammar radiments and to make them fit to bee sent to the Jesuits schools and hauing thaught them thus in the schools they accompany them home in the streets least they should either learne waggery as they go home or practise it Nay these humble men make it their profession not to teach higher schools where there might be some profit and honour at least some satisfaction and pleasure but they content themselues to go bare foot and teach onely the lower schools and first rudiments by which they neither grow wiser nor richer A strange mortifyed trade But Beati pauperes spiritu What shall I say of the Fathers of the Agonizants whose vocation is to be the Seconds of those who f●ght against death in self that is whose profession is to assist those that are in the agonie of death and to help them to make then those pious Acts which Christians should most of all then rouze themselues vp to What can be sayd more yes Rome not content to haue fed to haue bred to haue conuerted baptized reconciled the liuing and assisted the dyeing she extends her charity euen beyond death it self and hath institued a pious Confraternity called La Compagnia de' Morti whose office is to bury the dead and to visit those that are condemned and by praying with them exhorting them and accompanying them to the execution help them to dye penitently and bury them being dead and pray for their souls being buryed After which charity can do no more to man and therefore I will conclude that seing such singular acts of charity both for body and minde are practised no where so much as in Rome its true which I assumed aboue that Rome deserues to be called The
Santo stands the Statue of the Veronica vnder the peece of the Holy Crosse the statue of S. Helen Vnder the top of the lance the Statue of Longinus vnder the Head of S. Andrew The statue of S. Andrew These statues are of Colossean greatness and made by masters as great as themselues In the midst of the Crosse of this Church and perpendiculary vnder the very Cupola stands the High Altar of this Church This Altar may well be called the High Altar Altare quasi alta Ara or the Altare mains being the noblest Altar in the world both for matter and forme The Altar it self stands ouer the Tombe S. Peter half of whose body together with half of S. Pauls lyes buryed here and the other half of their bodyes in S. Pauls Church Ouer this Altar four stately pillars of brasse beare vp a Canopie of the same mettal wrought about the edge like a Canopie indeed with Valances and a guilt fringe yet all of brasse Ouer the corners of this Canopie stand four great Angels of brasse guilt and in the midst of it is mounted high a round ball of brasse guilt and a faire Crosse vpon it of the same mettal These four pillars are as great in compase I speak by experience hauing taken the measure of them vpon their model as three ordinary men are thick Their forme is is serpentine wreathed about with vinetrees and leaues but all of brasse as also adorned with little Angels of brasse clambering vp those leaues and branches and with Bees here and there also relating to Pope Vrbans armes who made them These pillars are fifty foot high from the ground Euery on of them weigheth fiue and twenty thousand pound weight and all of them together make this Altar The Altar antonomastically as this Church is The Church of the world So that if the Climax be true as ●rue it is that Churches are for Altars Altars for Priests Priests for God I know no Religion which payeth such honorable Tributs of worship to God as the Roman Catholik religion doth which hath the noblest Church the noblest Altar the noblest Priest the noblest Sacrifice and all this to the noblest God Deus Deorum Dominus Hence the Pope may say with Salomon Domus quam aedificare cupio magna est magnus est enim Dominus noster super omnes Deos. Behind this Altar not in respect of him that comes into the Church by the great dore but in respect of him that stands at the Altar stands the Confession of S. Peter so called because that in the primitiue times the place where the bodyes of Saints and Martyrs where kept was called Confessio and in the Greek Church Martyrium For in ancient writers the word Confessor was taken often for a martyr who had confessed Christ so farre as euen to dye for him so that martyrs were sometimes called Confessors and Confessors Martyrs though they did not actually dye in tormens as you may see plainly in the Anotations of learned Pamelius vpon Tertullians booke ad Martyres Now this place because it conserues the body at least half of the body of S. Peter is called the Confession of Peter As for this Confession it s made like a hollow caue open aboue and rayled about with low rayles so that the people kneeling may looke downe to the iron dore and grate behinde which the Tombe of S. Peter stands vnder the Altar for these rayles fetch in a demi-circle from one corner of the Altar to the other There are also a double pair of open stairs of some twelue steps a peece for those to descend by who officiate and there are two little half dores which let them in to those stairs And I conceiue at the bottom of these little dores the Limina Apostolorum to bee For though I know its generally held that to visit the Limina Apostolorum which Bishops by the Canon law are obliged vnto is to visit S. Peters Church and that diuers learned Authors think the Limina Apostolorum to be the very steps of the entrance of the great dore of the Church yet I am of opinion that these little half dores and the steps about the Altar are most properly the Limina Apostolorum because I found these very words written in golden letters in the bottom of the like little dores which stand about the High Altar in S. Pauls Church where the other half of the bodyes of S. Peter and S. Paul are intombed Round about this Church stand side Chappels some six and twenty in all called ancienly Cubicula and those whom we call Chaplains were anciently called Cubicularii hence the title of Cubicularius S. Petri. Now these Chappels haue for the most part some remarkable thing in them In one of them is alwayes reserued the B. Sacrament for the dayly vse of Pilgrims that desire to communicate in S. Peters Church and other deuout people In that of S. Gregory Nazianzen is the body of that Saint translated hither out of the Church of the Nunns of Campo Marzo In the Chappel of the Canons reposeth the body of S. Chrysostome In the Chappel called the Clementina reposeth the body of S. Gregory the great who being Pope of Rome and moued by Godly instinction as Iohn Stow sayth sent Augustin Iustus Melitus and other Monks liuing in the feare of God to conuert the Angles or English to the faith of Christ and therfore I tooke particular notice often of his tombe as being as Venerable Bede calls him our Apostle In a Chappel at the very further end of the Church is set vp the Chair of S. Peter held vp by four Doctors of the Church all cast in brasse in a stately posture This Chair is of wood but much spent with old age and therfore Pope Alexander the VII caused it to be set vp here and enchased curiously to preserue it I once saw it neere at hand being exposed to publick view in the middle of the Church vpon the Feast day of S. Peters Chair in Rome In an other Chappel is the Crucifix made three hundred yeares ago by rare Pietro Caualino In an other Chappel you see cut in white marble the history of S. Leo's meeting Attila out of Rome and his deturning him from comeing any nearer to the City As for the Relicks and bodies of Saints which are in this Church besides those mentioned already there are the bodyes of SS Simon and Iude of S. Petronilla of SS Processus and Martinianus of ten first Popes after S. Peter with a world of other precious Relicks Kept in the Sacristy As for the Tombes which are in this Church aboue ground they are these That of Sixtus IV. of Paulus III of Vrban the VIII of Leo the XI of Innocent the VIII of Gregory the XIII of Innocent the X and lastly that of the Countesse Matilde the onely secular person that I finde to haue a