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A31753 The travels of Sir John Chardin into Persia and the East-Indies the first volume, containing the author's voyage from Paris to Ispahan : to which is added, The coronation of this present King of Persia, Solyman the Third. Chardin, John, Sir, 1643-1713. 1686 (1686) Wing C2043; ESTC R12885 459,130 540

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of my Journal of the Year 1675. and the two succeeding Years concludes with a Piece wholly new and unknown to Vs in Europe which is an Abridgement of the History of Persia Extracted from their own Writings And thus having informed the Reader of the Subject of my Memorials I shall mention something of the time and means which I imployed to collect them I Travel'd by Land to the East-Indies in the Year 1665 and arrived in Persia at the beginning of the Year 1666. where I stayed all that Year and a good part of the next I came back to Persia from India in the Year 1669. where I remain'd Six Months before my return to Europe This was my first Voyage And though I then provided my self of Observations and all sorts of Materials for a Relation of it in as great a Degree or perhaps greater than those that have visited those Countries before me having Learn'd many things from the Turkish and Persian Languages which have not been observ'd by any that have hitherto Writ of Persia yet I did not then think my self sufficiently instructed for the Publication of so compleat a Work as I intended But in the mean time I entertain'd the World with a little Treatise of the Coronation of Soliman which consisted of some few Curious matters of Fact whereof I was an Eye-Witness And the earnest desire I had to improve my knowledge in that vast Empire of Persia to be enabled to produce to the World useful and Ample Relations of it induced me to undertake a Second Voyage thither which I did in the Year 1671. as the same will appear in this Journal I stay'd there until the Year 1677 chiefly following the Court in its Removals but likewise I made some particular Journeys as well of Curiosity as Business to prosecute my intentions studying the Language and assiduously frequenting the most eminent and most knowing Men of the Nation the better to inform my self in all things that were Curious and New to us in Europe concerning a Country that may well be called Another World both in respect of the Distance of place it has from us and the different Manners and Maximes of it In a Word I was so solicitous to know Persia that I knew Ispahan better than Paris though I was Bred and Born there The Persian Language was as easie to me as French and I could currently Read and Write it I had often Travell'd through the whole Country in the Length and Breadth thereof and seen its Seas both the Caspian and the Ocean from one end to the other I have visited its Frontiers in Armenia Iberia and Media and Arabia also as far as the River Indus and have been so exactly inform'd of those few Places where I have not been that I am confident I could know them if I may so say upon any sudden Transportation thither which I say only to let the Reader see what Ground he may have to rely upon the Truth of the following Relations As for this Translation I shall not say much of the Expressions and Phrase used in it being no competent Judge thereof but I can aver that it was done under my Inspection and I have review'd it with Attention and Knowledge enough to affirm that it is exactly my Sense but I must not omit to mention that in my Revision of it there was scarce a Leaf where I did not discover some considerable Fault as a Parenthesis Line or Word omitted and sometimes my Thoughts imperfectly rendered though the substituted Sense was neither Incongruous nor Perplexed In brief I have Corrected many Mistakes of this sort which could not be Perceptible to any but an Author who carries the Sense of his Work Word by Word in his Head As for Example in describing the Cultivation of the Vineyards of Colchide I said That they cut their Vines there once in every four Years and my Translator had expressed it That they cut their Vines four times every Year One cannot say that this proceeded from a defect of Sense or want of Vnderstanding the French Tongue for he knows it well and is otherways a Man of Letters and has quickness of Thought and is very able for such Works but Mistakes are inevitable in long Translations And as I believe that this of my Book is nearer the Original than any Version that I have seen of other Voyages so I am convinc'd that there are no Translations wherein many Errours may not be found against the Sense of the Authors The Copper Plates are done by different Gravers which will not happen in the others of my Volumes where all of them will be Engraven by that Hand which has done the Draught of Tauris and Nine or Ten other Figures I have Written nothing of the Indies because I lived but five Years there and understood only the Vulgar Languages which are the Indian and Persian without the Knowledge of that of the Brachmans which is the proper and necessary Organ to arrive at the Knowledge of the Wisdom and Antiquity of the Indians but nevertheless I did not altogether waste my Time there in Idleness On the contrary as the Winters in that Country will not permit One to Travel I imploy'd that time in a Work which I had long in my Thoughts and which I may call My Favourite Design by the Pleasure wherewith I laboured in it and the Profit which I hope the Publique will receive thereby which is certain Notes upon very many Passages of the Holy Scriptures whereof the Explication depends on the Knowledge of the Customs of the Eastern Countries for the East is the Scene of all the Historical Facts mentioned in the Bible The Language of that Divine Book especially of the Old Testament being Oriental and very often Figurative and Hyperbolical those Parts of the Scripture which are Written in Verse and in the Prophecies are full of Figures and Hyperboles which as it is manifest cannot be well understood without a Knowledge of the Things from whence such Figures are taken which are Natural Proprieties and Particular Manners of the Countries to which they refer I discern'd this in my first Voyage to the Indies For I gradually found a greater Sense and Beauty in divers Passages of the Scriptures than I had before by having in my view the Things either Natural or Moral which explain'd them to me and in perusing the different Translations which the greatest part of the Translators of the Bible had made I observ'd that every one of them to render their Expositions as they thought more intelligible used such Expressions as would accommodate the Phrase to the Places where they Writ which did not only many times pervert the Text but often render'd the Sense obscure and sometimes absurd also In fine consulting the Commentators upon such kind of Passages I found very strange Mistakes in them and that they all along guess'd at the Sense and did but grope as in the Dark in the search of it
hast wrought thy Miracles The Crown of Gerashid is cloudy and tarnish'd before the Heron Tufft of thy Turban The Throne of Fereydon is a woodden Bench in comparison of thy Seat The Glory of Salomon who was the Glory of the Earth was a small thing in comparison of thee because it was only borrow'd of the durable Glory of thy servant Selmon The Infallibility of Predestination depends only upon thy Conduct She is so modest as never to set her Foot before thine 'T is a sin to compare thee with man for how can a lump of Earth pretend to compare with a Diamond of the clearest water Human Wit cannot find a man equal to thee but by turning toward Mahomet This is our firm and clear Faith and I say no more They cry with a loud Voice upon the Gates of Paradise to those that come to visit thy Highness You that have repented and are become good People receive your Salary entring there for ever The Tomb of Sephy the first is no less Sumptuous then that of Abas The Lamp that hangs over it is of pure Massie Gold The Tomb which is of the same Form of the same Bigness with that of Abas is a piece of rare and wonderful Workmanship The Materials of which are Ivory Ebony Brasile Camphir Lignum Aloes and other Sweet Woods The Workmanship is of several peices of rapport-work after the Mosaic manner upon a bottom of Tissue in a Feild Or. The Pieces that compose the Workmanship are thin an fasten'd together with Rivetings and Clenchings of Fine Gold The Enchasements Hooks Pins Hinges Clasps and in a word whatever joynes the Pieces one to another for the whole Work may be taken to pieces are all of pure Massie Gold The Basis that supports the Tomb is surrounded with a List in the Middle of two Frizes upon which are written in Golden Characters of Rapport-work the 62. Chapter of the Alcoran of which this is the Translation In the name of God clement and merciful Whatever is in the Heavens and upon the Earth celebrates the Grandeur of the most Holy and Wise God who is without compare in Puissance He has sent to his People of Mecca a Prophet chosen from among 'em to reveal his Testimonies to ' em The Verses of the Alcoran to purifie 'em and teach 'em the true Faith and the true Knowledge for that assuredly before that time they wander'd in manifest Errors Other men have not been favour'd with the same Graces But God who is without compare for Power and Wisdom causes his infinite Abundance to descend where he pleases himself The Example of those who carry'd the Old Testament in their Hands but never in their Works like to an Ass that carrys a Burden of Books is a fatal Example to all Impostors that have falsifi'd the Ancient Testimonies of God the Old and New Testament and they are to understand that God ne're takes upon him the Conduct of Impostors Tell 'em O you that are become Jews if you believe your selves to be more the Sons of God then other Men wish for death wish for it if you are real in your words But they have no mind to wish for it because of what their Hands have committed Now God knows the unjust Tell 'em that Death which you flee shall overtake ye then shall ye return to him that knows as well what is conceal'd as what is discover'd He shall set before ye all your Actions Oh you true Believers when they call ye to Friday Prayers run to Celebrate the Praises of God and let alone your private Affairs In this it is that reall Good consists if you have the Wit to know it When prayers are ended go where you please but never hope for the Relief of your Necessities but in the Abundance of God and always have God in your Minds perhaps you may thereby become happy As for those who drawn away in hopes of Gain or Divertisement have left thee to enjoy their Pleasures tell 'em That which is with God is far better than Gain and Pleasure and that God most assuredly is the best Provider for our Necessities The Tomb of Sephy like that of Abas is cover'd with a Pall of the rich Tyssue of Persia the richest that is made in any part of the world and another over it of fine Scarlet with a Gold Fringe round about And the second Covering was fast'ned to the Carpet below with a string that runs through Rings of Gold as in Abas's Tomb. The Lecterns or Desks which are over-against it and are made to fold one upon another are of all sweet Wood near to which in several Niches are a great number of Books of the Law put up in Bags of Tissue So that a man can hardly see any thing more Beautiful and Magnificent There is such a Neatness and Gravity mixt together with Pomp and Riches that I never saw any thing in Persia that better pleased me All the Vessels that belong to the Chappels are of Gold and Silver It consists in large Flambeau Branches of four and five hundred Ounces apiece in flat Dishes wherein they serve the Poor with Victuals in Pots to spit in in Chafing-Dishes Fire-shovels and perfuming Pans and in Boxes for Grease and sweet Odors But they never make use of the Gold Plate unless it be upon Festivals In the Evening they light up several Flambeaus in the Tombs and Galleries that burn till day-light which is also done in the middlemost Chappel and at the Entrance They also light up two very large ones which they set up upon so many Stands And eight Priests are paid and entertain'd to read the Alcoran by turns day and night Twelve more likewise perform the same Duty in Sephy's Tomb and twenty five more in the Monument of Abas Behind the Chappels and upon each side are very neat Gardens with Apartments very well furnish'd and kept in good Repair with little Gardens belonging to every one extremely pleasant and delightful upon the left hand is a large Church-Yard fifteen hundred Paces square In which Church-Yard they bring Bodies to be bury'd from all parts of Persia where it is in great Request and every where lookt upon to be Sacred Ground On the right side of the Structure there is nothing but a high Brick Wall very broad and very thick and serves for a Damm against the Inundations of the River of Com that runs at the foot of it The Persians call this famous place Massouma that is Innocent or Pure by reason of the pretended Saint that lies there enterr'd and to whom they likewise give the same Epithet For this word Massouma in the Persian Theology signifies a Person that has acquir'd a Sanctity so habitual as never to sin more There belongs to it a Revenue of three Thousand four Hundred Tomans which make eleven Thousand Pounds Sterling that is to say fifteen Hundred Tomans for Abas's Tomb a Thousand for Sephy's and seven hundred for Fathma's This
and let my Servant ride to look after ' em The Lay-Brother was also a Horseback and it rain'd as hard as it could pour after two days insomuch that the Fryer had like to have been drown'd about a League from the Castle in a deep Ditch that overflow'd its Banks into which his Horse fell and out of which with much ado we recover'd him half dead I shall not relate the Hardships I endur'd both that and the following days as being constrain'd to march afoot in a rainy season through the Woods full of Water and Mud where I went for the most part up to the Knees only in a word that 't was impossible for any Person to endure more then we did For my own part I was quite spent All that I had left was a remainder of Courage and Resolution to do and suffer whatever befel me to save those Goods that were entrusted to my Care In the Evening we arriv'd at Anarghia wet to the very Skin Anarghia being six Leagues from the Castle of Sabatar The 12th I was to have Embark'd but was prevented by the News that was spread about of several Barks of the Mingrelians and Abca's that were Cruising upon the Coasts of Mingrelia Which was very true for they had taken several Barks of the Country and one among the rest wherein I was concern'd Yet the unspeakable trouble which this delay gave me did not proceed so much from its keeping me in continual Fears and Dangers as that it seem'd to threaten me that I should never get rid of ' em The 19th Father Zampi had Intelligence that the Day before they had forc'd open the Church-Doors taken away all that was in the Church had open'd the Sepulcher and carry'd all that one of the Theatins who was left to look after the House had hid in the Tomb and that there was nothing left standing but the Wall This News put me into a terrible fright considering I had left above Seven Thousand Pistols buri'd in the Church Upon which I dispatch'd away a Messenger to my Comrade thinking to have found him at the Castle but he was already gone to the Theatins Residence to know what course we should take to repair so great a Misfortune of which he had Notice as soon as my self But he wrote me word That Thanks be to GOD they had not so much as touch'd our Money having found it in the same place where we had buri'd it VVhich good News wonderfully reviv'd my Spirits looking upon so great a Favour of the Almighty as a sign of his Attonement so that I went to encourage the Turks whose Feluke I had hir'd to set Sail with all speed The 27th I departed from Anarghia my Feluke being a Vessel of good Burthen wherein there were near Twenty Persons the one half Slaves the rest Turks which I the rather permitted the Master to take in that we might be the better able to defend our selves against the Rovers that infested the Coasts After an Hours Sailing we got into the Main Sea For the Langur which we left is very rapid and runs with a furious Stream and besides he must be a skilful Pilot that carries a laden Vessel down that River by reason of the many Flats where they stick upon the Sands I staid all Day-long near the Shoar at the request of the Master of the Shallop who expected two Slaves to be brought him that Evening While I tarry'd at Anarghia I was invited to two Christnings whither I went to observe the manner of the Mingrelian Baptism and found that Father Zampi had been very exact in his Relation For the Ceremony was no otherwise then thus perform'd in a Neighbours House adjoyning to the Lodging where I lay He sent for the Priest about Ten a Clock in the Morning who was no sooner come but he went into the Buttry where they kept the Wine and sate himself down upon a Bench without any other then his ordinary Habit and then fell a reading in a Book that was half torn about the bigness of a New Testament in Octavo Not that the Child was brought to him when he began to read for the Father and Godfather did not bring him till a quarter of an Hour after and then appear'd a little Boy of about five Years of Age at what time the Godfather brought also a little Searring Candle and three Grains of Incense The Candle the Godfather likewise lighted and fix'd it to the Door of the Cellar where though it was burnt out before the Child was Baptiz'd they did not light up another and as for the three Grains of Incense they were strew'd upon a few Embers and smoak'd away All this while the Priest read on very fast and with a low Voice and in such a careless manner as if he never minded what he did The Father and Godfather went to and agen all the time and so did the Child that did nothing but eat At length after an Hours reading there was a Bucket of warm Water got ready into which after the Priest had pour'd about a Spoonful of Oyl of Walnuts he bid the Godfather undress the Child which was done and the Child put naked into the Bucket where as he stood upon his Feet the Godfather wash'd his Body all over and when he had well wash'd him the Priest took out of a Leather Pouch that hung at his Girdle as much Myrone or Oyl of Unction as came to the weight of a Pea and gave it to the Godfather who Anointed with it almost all the parts of the Childs Body as the top of the Head the Ears Forehead Nose Cheeks Chin Shoulders Elbows Back Belly Knees and Feet All which time the Priest read on still nor did he give over till the Godfather had again drest the Child Which being done the Father brought in Wine Bread and a piece of boyl'd Pork and first gave the Child to eat then presented the Priest the Godfather the Guests and all the House and then they all sate down to the Table nor was there hardly one that was not drunk before he went I have also seen Mass perform'd in the same place which is done with the same Carelessness and Irreverence and altogether as has been related in a Treatise of the Mingrelian Religion And once it was my hap to see one very pleasantly interrupted For as I was flying with one of the Theatins we pass'd along before a Church where they were saying Mass At what time the Priest that said it understanding that we enquir'd the way of the People that stood at the Door Stay a little cry'd he from the Altar I 'll come and tell ye Immediately after he came to the Door muttering his Mass between his Teeth and after he had ask'd us whence we came and whither we went he shew'd us the way and so return'd to the Altar again The 29th betimes i' the Morning we put to Sea the weather being clear and fair and then we
because I was going upon the Kings business and therefore that I was at Liberty to go when I pleas'd that there was all manner of security within his Territories and that therefore I needed no Convoy nevertheless that he would send one of his Officers along with me if I desir'd it The Fathers told me afterwards that he had held 'em in a long discourse concerning his earnest desire that the Europeans would come and settle in Georgia to which purpose they had orders to tell me that if they would come thither for Trade he would Grant 'em all the Priviledges and Advantages they could desire That his Territories extended to the Black-Sea and that bearing a great sway in Persia and being highly esteem'd in Turkey such Europeans as design'd to the Indies could not chuse a better Road then through his Territories and that he was assur'd that when they had once travell'd it they would always make choice of it for the future I desir'd the Fathers to return my most humble Thanks to the Prince for the Kindness which he had for our Nation and to let him know That I would not fail to give to the French East-India Company Notice of his good Intentions which if he would be pleas'd to signifie in a Letter I would certainly take care to have it sent Lastly That he would do me a great Honour to grant me one of his Domestick Servants to Conduct me to the next Government of which I should not fail to give an Account to the King and his Ministers when I should be arriv'd at Ispahan The 24th the Tibilelle for so is the Bishop of Tefflis call'd as I have said already came to see me He told me That the Prince had commanded him to acquaint me That having consider'd upon what I had sent to him about Writing to the French Company for setling a Trade and a Passage through Georgia He was about to have done it to inform 'em of the Advantage they might make of a Trade into that Country but in regard he was no more then a Vassal to the King of Persia he was afraid his Majesty would look upon it as a Crime to have Written without his Order to Strangers about Business However I might assure 'em this That if they would send Factors into his Country they should find many sorts of Merchandizes that were proper for Europe very cheap besides that they should be receiv'd with all the Civility imaginable In answer to which I desir'd the Tibilelle to assure the Prince that I would faithfully discharge my Trust The Prelate staid with me about a quarter of an Hour in my Chamber and at his departure I presented him a very fair Rosary of Coral according to the Custom of Repaying the Visits of a Person of Quality Nor were the Capuchins less glad of the Visit I had receiv'd then of the manner of my Acknowledgment in regard the Bishop of Tefflis had never been at their House before The 25th the Prince sent me a Present of Wine and order'd the Messenger to tell me That he had appointed a Persian of his own Family for my Guide that he had commanded a Letter of Orders to be dispatch'd that I might set forward as soon as I pleas'd The 26th Father Raphael made me spend two Hours with an old Woman that practis'd Physick by the help of an infinite Number of Receipts Of which he caus'd me to write down some that he had heard People make the greatest Brags of in my table-Table-Book For the Dropsie ☞ half a Dram of the Juice of the Roots of Garden-Chiches and repeat the Remedy every other Day To stop a Flux of Urine Eat for three days together the inner Skins of the Gysern of a Capon rosted five every day Against the Biting of a Scorpion Take a Live-Hen pull the Feathers off the Rump and lay it upon the Wound For then the Hen sucks the Poyson into her Body and dies When the Convulsion begins to seize the Hen take another and apply her in the same manner and so another till all the Poyson be suck'd out For the Yellow Jaundise Make a Bed of Boyl'd Rice and lay the Patient well cover'd upon it or else put him into a Bath of Milk and it works the same effect For External Pains of the Joynts Take either the Decoction or the Perfume of three Drams of Hellebore For Inward Pains of what sort soever Take Potions of Mummy For all sorts of Falls Bruises and Hurts Take Mummy in Drink wrap up the Patient in a Cows Hide and let him Blood The Wound must be heal'd with the Powder of the Herb Mullein For Defluxions and Rheumes to the Head and Throat Take Perfume of Yellow Amber For the Dysentery Give the Infusion of the Leaves and Berries of Myrtle or else the Blood of a Rosted Hare infus'd in Wine For the Haemorrhoids Powder the Leaves of Plantain and strew upon the part affected For Pains in the Reins take the Decoction of the Leaves and Seed of Marsh-Mallows For Ulcers in the Reins use Milk Against a Pleuresy take two little thin Cakes of ordinary Meal and boil 'em in Water with Roch-Allum and Madder and apply 'em as hot as may be endur'd upon the side the one behind and the other before this Remedy must be dayly repeated till the Cure be perfected Against a Cough make use of the Root of the Herb call'd Hounds-Tongue or Dogs-Tongue The most usual Cure for Agues in this Country is to make Plaisters of the Fat of a Sheeps Rump Cinamon Cloves and Cardamomes and all the time of the cold fit to lay these Plaisters upon the Forehead Stomach and Feet When the hot fit is over take off those Plaisters and lay on others made of the Leaves of Cichory Plantain and the Herb call'd Solanum or Nightshade afterwards they take a Sucking-Pig cut it in two and clap it to the Feet All which time the Patient is fed with Bread and Cream of Almonds eating nothing that is boyl'd Father Raphael assur'd me that he had seen 'em in that Country cure Agues by carrying the Patient in the height of his Cold fit and plunging him over Head and Ears in the Water It is a thing hard to be beleiv'd and in Truth to me it appear'd a thing altogether Extravagant in regard it seem'd to be so Dangerous However it is observ'd that the difference of Climates and Temperaments of Countrys produces far different effects in Remedies so that the Remedy if I may so say that Kills in one Country does but only stir a Man in another In the Evening the Princes Chancellors Secretary brought me the Officer who was to conduct me to Erivan and in my presence gave him the Letter of Orders for his so doing Of which the Translation follows GOD. UNder severe Penalties the Noble Lord 1 Emin-Aga is Commanded exactly to cause to be Executed the Tenor of the Patent which the Deceas'd King who was here below the