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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A49620	The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant.	Lassels, Richard, 1603?-1668.; S. W. (Simon Wilson)	1670 (1670)	Wing L465; ESTC R2418	265,097	737

each hand both which are full of curious bookes both manuscripts and printed bookes diuers of which were showne me with great ciuility by Monsignor Holstenius then keeper of this Library whom I had formerly knowne The chief of these bookes were these A vast Hebrew Bible too heauy for any man to lift vp An ancient copie of the Septuagints translation in Greek after which the Bible hath been printed both in Rome and London The Acts of the Apostles in Greek curiously written in golden letters The Ghospel written by S. Chrysostoms owne hand An Hebrew Bible written in sheets of parchment pasted to one another and rowled vp hence the word Volumen for a booke A little booke written in barke of trees hence the word folium for a leaf in a booke Certain old Roman Table bookes A China Tablebooke of wood in which they wrote with a pointed steele A curious China booke all in Hieroglyphs and folded vp in many folds our Purchas in his curious nauigations hath both printed and deciphered it Polidor Virgils history of England written with his owne hand An old booke of Sermons in Latin in whose margin S. Thomas of Aquin had made notes with his owne hand An old Virgil with the pictures of the history in old painting An old Terence written twelue hundred yeares a goe and the ancientest that euer Politian saw as he testifyeth vnder his owne hand in the inside of the couer of this booke Baronnius his Annals in his owne hand writeing The rare quotations out of the ancient Fathers painfully and faithfully collected out of the best copies by learned Cardinal Sirleto in the time of the Council of Trent and sent by him weekly by the Poste from Rome to the Fathers in the Council who proceeded to their definitions by the ancient tradition of the Church found so plainly and vnanimously in those Fathers Those quotations make six Volumes in folio and this was it which out aduersaryes call the sending downe of the Holy Ghost to Trent in a cloak-bag when it was onely the seding downe of these faithfull testimonies of the Tradition of the Church gathered out of the most ancient and authentick copies The letters of Henry the VIII of England to Anne Bolen his mistresse then in his owne hand writeing Some in English some in French but all amatory It is easy to imagine them written by him if you compare the hand-writing of these letters with those two Verses written by the Kings owne hand in the frontispice of the following Booke to wit The booke which the sayd Henry wrotte against Martin Luther and dedicated it by a couple of Latin verses written with is owne hand in the Frontispice of it to Pope Leo the tenth which booke purchased to King Henry the honorable title of defender of the faith Then I was showne the Library of the Duke of Vrbin who dyeing without heires male bequeathed his Library to the Vatican Library here In this I saw many rare manuscripts written in parchment and painted in miniature especialy that booke in whose margins are painted by a rare hand and wonderfull diligence all the insects in nature in their liuely colours and true resemblance Ouer against this Library they shewed me in the same roome the Library of Heidelberg sent to Rome by the Duke of Bauaria after he had dispossessed the Elector Frederick Prince Palatin of Rhein of his country as well as of the kingdome of Bohemia which he had seazed on at the instigation of Bethleem Gabor and others See the Mercure François They shewed me here among diuers other bookes the booke of designes of the sayd Prince Elector Palatin which he had designed being yong Happy Prince if he had not designed to himself an other mans crowne In the great roome of this Library there is an iron dore which leteth you into a more secret roome where the Registers of the Church of Rome are kept the keeper of which Registers was anciently called Chartularius an office much like to that in the Greek Church called Cartophylax In fine I was showne here diuers letters of great persons and Princes written with their owne hands as of S. Charles Boromaeus to Cardinal Sirleto who had had a hand in his education of Queen mary of England of King Philip the second of Spayne hir husbād stileing himselfe King of Spayne England and France of Francis the First of France of Margaret of Parma that Gouerned Flanders when it reuolted of President Vargas a Spaniard and a great statesman in Flanders but no great Latinist as it appeared by his answer to the Doctors of Louain petitioning him in Latin for their priuiledges when he se sayd Non curamus vostros priuilegios Mali faxerunt templa boni nihil faxerunt contra ergo debent omnes patibulari the tearmes of the expostulation being as harsh as the Conclusion of it and some old polite Orators had rather haue been hangd indeed then threatened in such bad Latin A little before I went out of this Library I sawe neere the dore the Statue of Hippolitus Bishop of Portua who liued 1400 yeares ago sitting in a chair of stone vpon which is cut in Greek letters the ancient Canon Paschalis vpon which Scaliger and others haue written It s a curious peece of learned antiquity and worthy to he taken notice of 16. Hauing seen the Library we were led on by the long Gallery mentioned before vnto the Beluedere were we descended into the Popes priuate garden full of orange trees fine walkes and fountains Here are three or four vnauoidable wetting places to those that are not acquainted with them Henc you goe downe to see the rare fountain of the iron ship In this garden I saw the Pineapple of brasse guilt which is as great as three men can fathom about and twice as high as the tallest man can reach Here also stand by it the two great Peacocks of brasse guilt which stood anciently vpon Scipio Affricanus his tombe and are some three or four yeards long 17. From hence we were led hard by to see the Beluedere of the Maschere which Michel Angelo called his Studie It s a squar Court sett with Orange trees in whose walls are great Niches with leaues to them of wood where the choyce statues of the world are conserued vnder lock and key and free from ill weather The chief statues here are these that of the riuer Nilus and that of Tyber both in cumbent postures That of Antinous minion of the Emperor Adrian it s of pure oriental marble and rarely cut that of Cleopatra that of Venus comeing out of a bath that of Commodus the Emperor that of Laocoon and his sonns inuolued about with serpents This statue of Laocoon is the master peece of sculpture That in the middle of the Court of Hercules without armes leggs or head is so rare a trunck that Michel Angelo professed

Arsenal I confesse heretofore they were strong enough to offend others For they made warre against the Pisani and worsted them They set also vpon the Iland of Corsica distant from Genua about a hundred miles and tooke it This Iland gaue the Republike of Genua more honour then profit for it being once a Kingdome giues still to Genua the title of Serenissima and a Close Regal Crowne ouer its Coat of Armes In fine the Genuesi were strong enough heretofore to lend great succours to Godfrey of Bullen in his holy conquest of Hierusalem Hence vpon the very Arca of the Holy Sepulcher in Hierusalem are written these words Praepotens Genuensium praesidium As for their Interest it seemed to mee to be farre more Spanish then French by reason of the great profit they draw from Spayne which corresponds with the rich State of Milan in men and monyes by meanes of the Gennesi yet they are well with all Christian Princes except with the Duke of Sauoye who pretends to Sauona As for the Learned men of this towne I find them not to be so many The rich Banquier is more esteemed here then the learned Diuine Yet I finde here also some famous for learning to wit Baptista Fregosus or Fulgosus who for his singular parts being chosen Doge of Genua and by his owne disloyal kinred chased from Gouerment and country comforted himself in his studdyes and haueing obserued many particular things in history he reduced them to heads and left vs a iust volume of Memorable sayings and Deeds of the ancients for which work he is stiled by Alberto Leandro the Valerius Maximus of Italy He wrote in Italian and dedicated his booke to his Sonn The other learned men of this towne are Iustinianus Balus Mascardi and Christopher Columbus Genua also hath giuen to the Church three Popes Adrian the V. Innocent the IV and Innocent the VIII Here is an Academy of Wits called the Adormentati which together with the other Academyes of the like nature in all the townes of Italy I would wish my Traueller to visit particularly that he may see how farr the Jtalians excell vs in passing their time well and how it s much better to spend the week in making of Orations and Verses then in drinking of Ale and smoaking of Tobacco He that desires to know more of Genua let him read Augustinus Iustinianus of the History of Geuua Hauing spent six dayes in Genua we agreed with an honest Vetturino to conduct vs to Milan which is about four little dayes iourney from hence In another voyage I went from Genua to Turin by Monferat and saw in my way Noui of which by and by Trino Cassale one of the strongest places of Italy hauing a strong Cittadelle a strong Casile strong towne-walls and ditches and Alexandria della paglia a strong towne standing vpon the Po. But now at this time leaving Genua and intending for Milan we rid through San Pietro d'Arena by the Carthusians Monastery ouer the Apenniu Hills and in a day and a half came to Noui. Noui is a little strong towne belonging to the Genuesi and Frontier to the Milanesi It s some twelue miles distant from Tortona the first frontier towne of the State of Milan and because these Frontiers were then pestered with Bandits a noble man of Genua who was in our company beggd of the Gouernour of Noui a Couuoy for himself and vs to secure vs to Tortona The Gouernour presently granted vs a Conuoye of eight or ten horsemen but those very men he gaue vs for our Conuoye were Bandits themselues who being banished from the State and towne of Genua for their misdemenours had two months a yeare allowed them to come freely into frontier townes and negotiate with the State These men were thought by the Gouernour to be our safest gards in danger who were the onely men that caused danger Hauing been thus conuoyed safely by out honest rogues past all danger we payed them some three Pistoles and feard no more danger till we should meet with such seruants as these another time I confesse it seemed at first à fearfull thing to see our selues in the hands of those who had their hands often in blood yet there is such a charme in a Gouernours parole that we thought our selues as well armed with it as if we had been shot-free and had had all the Spells of Lapland about vs. We had no sooner parted from these our guards but passing ouer a little riuer on horsback we entred into the Milanese land came at night to Tortona a strong frontier towne of the Milanese where Charles the VIII of France in his returne from the conquest of Naples beat the Venitians and the Milanesi in a battle From Tortana we went the next day to Pauia the second towne of the state of Milan and once the Seat of twelue Kings of the Longobards It stands vpon the riuer Ticinum and hence it s also called in Latin Ticinum Here 's an Vniuersity either founded or furnished at first with readers or by readers of the Vniuersity of Oxeford The Cheif Colledges are that of Pius Quintus and that of S. Charles Boromaeus The other remarkable things here are 1 The Domo in which lyeth buryed the body of a holy Bishop of this towne called Sauli who was contemporary to S. Charles Borromaeus and of the same Pastoral spirit and zeale Neare the great doore of this Church on the inside they show you a little mast of a boate which they make ignorant people beleeue for sport to haue been the Lance of Orlando Furioso 2 Neare the Domo in the Piazza stands A Brazen statue which some affirme to be the Statue of Constantin the Great others more probably of Antoninus Pius It was brought from Rauenna hither by victory and it had like to haue been carryed back againe to Rauenna by Victory For Lotrech the French general in the takeing of this towne haueing granted this Statue to a soldier of Rauenna who serued vnder him and who haueing mounted the breach first asked nothing for his recompence but that statue taken anciently from his natiue towne Yet afterwards moued with the generosity of the townsmen who hauing left all things else with some patience to the prey of the soldiers burst into tears when they heard that this statue was to be taken from them Lotrech changed his gift to the soldier left the Citizens of Pauia their deare Statue 3. I saw the Augustins Church where the body of that great Father of the Church S. Augustin lyeth buryed It was translated hither out of Sardinia by Luitprandus King of the Longobards an arme of which S. Augustin a King of England redeemed at a great rate and yet cheap too if it where his writeing arme wherewith he wrote such admirable bookes The new Tombe in the Sacristy is all of white marble most

conclaueait Fuere enim in eadem sententia non incelebres inter Reformatos Theologi adhuc vigent in hac Vrbe insignes fide pietate viri qui audierunt ex ore Camerii se istam historiam Vulgo creditam fabulosis deputare Vidi nuper scriptas literas docti vegeti senis tibique mihi amicissimi Petri Molinaei quibus idem semper sibi esse visum affirmabat Penes me sunt literae Samuelis Bocharti quibus testatur sibi esse pro comperto vanum fictitium quicquid hactenus de ea sit proditum Thus Monsieur Serrauius in a priuate letter though his sonn after his death printed his litters to a freind of the same religion And thus you see how this fable maintained highly a long time by the Aduersaries of the Roman Church expired at last as all lyes do and was carryed to its graue vpon the shoulders of four French Ministers Blondel Chamier du Moulin and Bochart If I haue been a little too long in this digression you will pardon me We are all debtors to Truth and all men ought to be glad to see themselues disabused Going out of the little back dore of this Church I went to see the Baptistery of Constantin the Great Our most Noble Countryman and the first Emperour that publickly professed Christianity This Baptistery is built round and in the center of it in a descent of four steps stands the very Font in which the sayd Emperor was baptized by Pope Syluester It s enuironed with low rayles of marble and adorned with ten or twelue great pillars of Porphyrie the fairest in Rome which beare vp the painted Vault ouer the Font so that people standin about these rayles may see conueniently the baptizeing of Jewes and Infidels in the pitt below Vpon the Walls of the round Chappel are painted in Fresco the most memorable actions of Constantin the Great as his Vision of the Crosse in the ayre with these words aboue it In hoc signo Vinces his ouercomeing the Tyrant Maxentius his baptisme here by S. Siluester his burning the Libels against Catholike Bishops preferred to him by the Arrians his kissing the wounds of those good Bishop in the Council of Nice who had either their fingars cut off or one eye put out by the Tyrants On the other side of S. Iohn Laterans Church stands the Scala Santa and the Sancta Sanctorum The Scala Santa is called from the stairs twenty eight in all vp which our Sauiour was led in this passion to Pilats house Vpon some of them you see the places where the pretious blood of our Sauiour had fallen and for that reason they are couered with little grates of brasse which let in eyes but keep of knees I say knees for none go vp these holy stairs otherwise then kneeling and this out of reuerence to him who often fell vpon his knees as he was draggd vp and downe these stairs It s painfull enough to go vp these stairs vpon your knees yet I saw it done hourly in the Iubily yeare by continual flocks of deuout people both men and women of great condition as well as of great deuotiō these holy staires were Sent from Hierusalem to Constantin the Great by his Moter Queen Helen together with many other Relicks kept in S. Iohn Laterans Church They are of whit marble and aboue six foot long At the head of these stairs stands the Chappel called Sancta Sanctorum because of the Holy things kept in it Hence ouer the Altar in this Chappel are written these words Non est in toto Sanctior Orbe Locus Vpon the Altar is kept the miraculous picture of our Sauiour it represents him about thirteen yeares old and onely his half body It s about a foot a halfe long and it s sayd to haue been begun by S. Luke but ended miraculously by an Angel Others say that S. Luke hauing onely prepared the ground and before he had drawne one stroke fell to his prayers to beg of God that he might draw his Son right and riseing vp againe he found his picture already finished Hence Domenico Magri a learned Antiquarie is of opinion that this pisture of our Sauiour is that very picture which Anastasius B●bliothecarius in the life of Steuen the II calls Achyropaeta that is made without hands Round about this picture goes a set of great iewels enriching the frame of it Vnder the Altar reposeth the body of S. Anastasius of whose head and picture I spoke aboue in the description of the Church of this Saint at the Tre Fontane Here are also kept the Heads of S. Agnes and S. Praxedes with many other pretious Relicks Anciently as the Records here mention the Holy Prepuce or Foreshin of our Sauiour was kept here too but being taken away in the sack of Rome by one of Bourbons soldiers it was left in a a country towne called Calcata some fifteen wiles distant from Rome by the same soldier who could not rest day nor night as long as he had that relick about him I once passed by that towne Calcata by chance and by the ciuilityes of the Lord of the towne Count of Anguillara at whose house we were nobly entertained all night had the happiness the next morning to see this pretious Relick through the crystal case This Count keeps one key of it and the Parish Priest the other without both which it cannot be seen Neare to the Scala Santa is seen a famous peece of Antiquity of Christian Rome called Triclinium Leonis where is seen a Mosaick picture of our Sauiour resuscitated and holding out a booke to his Disciples in which are written these words Pax vobis Peace be to you Which picture Leo caused to be made eight hundred yeares ago as an emblem of his peaceable returne againe to his seat after he had been chased out by his enemyes Vpon a pillar on the right hand is painted our Sauiour sitting vpon a Throne and giuing with one hand the Keys of the Church to S. Peter and with the other the Imperial standard to Constantin the Great Vpon the other pillar on the left hand is represented in Mosaick worke also S. Peter sitting in a Chair and with one hand giuing vnto Pope Leo the III the Papal stole and with the other the Imperial standard vnto Charlemagne who had restored this Pope Leo to his seat againe From hence passing againe by S. Iohn Lateran● Church I saw first the pallace of the Pope here built by Sixtus Quintus then the great Guglia with Egyptian Hyeroglyphes figured vpon it which had stood anciently in the Circus Maximus it s aboue 100 foot high was brought from Alexandria to Rome by Constantin the Great lastly in a low roome ioyning to the Church I saw the Statue in Bronze of Henry the IV of France set vp here by the Canons of S. Iohn Laterans

signifie that it belongs to the Canton of Berne and is Protestant and yet they liue ciuilly and neighbourly together without quarreling about Religion Passing thus a long I came to Soleur Soloturrum in Latin a neat towne and Head of a Canton They are all Catholicks here and here it is that the French Embassadours to the Swissers alwayes reside as the Spanish Embassadors do at Lucerna This towne is very ancient as the golden Letters vpon the clock testifye for those words make Soleur to be onely yonger then her Sister Treuers which as Aeneas Syluius writes was built 1300 yeares before Rome As for Soleur I find in good Cronologers that it was built 2030 years after the creation of the world From Soleur I went to Murat a little towne famous for a great battle fought hard by it by the Duke of Burgondy and the Swissers For the the Duke of Burgondy beseiging Murat the Swissers came vpon him with a great army and defeated him I was told here that the Duke seeing his army defeated and himself enuironed on one side by the Lake here and on the other side by the enemyes conquering army chose rather to trust himself to the Lake then to his ennemyes Wherevpon spurring his horse into the Lake one of his Dages to saue himself also leaped vp behind him as he tooke water The Duke out of feare either perceiued him not at first or dissembled it till he came to the other side of the Lake which is two miles broad The stout horse tugged through with them both and saued them both from drowning but not both from death For the Duke seing in what danger his page had put him stabbed the Page with his dagger Poore Prince thou mighst haue giuen an other offering of thanks giueing to God for thy escape then this nay thou mighst haue been as ciuil as thy horse and haue spaired him whom beasts and waues had saued At least by that means thou mighst haue saueed thy owne honour by saueing that poore page who offended rather out of feare of death then out of malice and thereby thou mighst haue truly sayd that thou hadst not lost all thy men in that battle But passion is a blind thing Nothing is so dangerous to man as man and as I obserued aboue we are neuer in greater danger then when we think we are past danger Thebones of the Burgundians slain in this battle are seen in a great Chappel which stands a little distant from the towne and vpon the road with an inscription vpon it touching the time and circumstances of this defeat From Murat I made towards Zuric a head towne also of a Canton It stands most sweetly vpon a Lake whose crystalin waters would delight any body else but Swissers They are all here Swinglians and when Mareshal D'Estrée the French Embassadour to Rome passed that way and lodged at the great Jnn of the Sword as he was combing his head one morning in his combing cloth with his chamber window open some of the townes men who saw him from an other opposit window putting on that combeing cloth and thinking it had been a Priest putting on the Amice and vesting himself for to say Masse before the Embassadour in his chamber began with a Dutch clamour to stirre vp the people to a mutiny about the Embassadours house and to call for the Priest that was saying of Masse The Embassadour at first not vnderstanding the cause of this vproare about his house rann downe with sword in hand and in his combeing cloth to check the first man that should darre to enter his lodgings but vnderstanding at last that his combing cloth had caused this iealousy hee laughed at their folly and retired away contented The best things to be seen in Zuric are these 1. The neat Arsenal furnished with store of fair Cannons and armes of all sortes 2. The great Library but in this much lesse esteemed by mee because a woman had the Key of it and let vs in to see it This peice of false Latin at the entrance disgusted me with all that I saw there and made me hasten out quickly Good Libraries should not fall en quenoüille 3. The Wheeles which draw vp water from the Lake of themselues and empty it into seueral Pipes so conueigh it all ouer the towne 4. The publick great drinking hall where there are a world of little tables for men of seueral corporations or trayds to meet at and either talk there of their business or make drinking their business Ouer euery table hangs the signe of each trad as a Last for shoomakers a saddle for sadlers a sword for cutlers c. There is a great Bell that rings to this meeting place euery day at two a clock and when I heard so solemne a ringing I thought it had been to some Church deuotion not to a drinking assembly From Zuric I went by water that is vpon the lake a whole dayes iourney and passed vnder a bridge of wood which crosseth quite ouer the lake for two miles It s entertained at the cost of the King of Spayne to passe the soldiers which he often rayseth in the adiacent countryes From hence I went to Coire or Cear the head towne of the Grisons The Bishop and the Clergy of the great Church with some few others liuing within the precincts of the Cloister of the great Church are Catholicks and performe their deuotions in the Church without controll the rest of the inhabitants are Swinglians and possesse the towne yet they suffer the Bishop and his Clergy to liue quietly in the midst of them They shewed me here in this Church diuers fine Relicks especially the Head enchased in syluer of our ancient Brittan King Lucius the first Christian king that euer made profession of Christian Religion and the first who helpt to plant it here The ancient Church office here relates all this as their Church bookes shewed me From the Grisons I went to the Country of the Valtaline a country subiect to the Grisons and keeping its fidelity to them euen when it would not haue wanted assistance from Spayne and Italy if it would haue been false to its Superiors the Grisons vnder the colour of Religion those of the Valtaline being all Catholicks and their souuerains the Grisons Caluinists In a little towne of the Grisons called Herberga I was shewed a cheese and giuen to taste of it too by myne hoste the Maior of the towne a Caluinist in Religion and a Venerable old man who assured me seriously that that cheese was a hundred years old a Venerable Cheese indeed and well nigh as old as his Religion Between these two countryes of the Grisons and the Valtaline stands the great Hill Berlino ouer which I passed and fell from thence upon Posciauo a little bourg and so to our Ladyes of Tirano a neat Church with a fair Inn hard by it Others to auoyd the

exquisitly carued with historical statues representing the most remarkable actions of that Doctor 4 In the same Church we were showne the Tombe of Seuerinus Boëtius author of that great little booke de Consolatione Philosophica which he wrote in his exile to comfort himself He was a Consul of Rome for dignity an other S. Denys for learning loosing his head and held a Martyr by many 5 In the Cloister of this Conuent of the Augustins lye buryed two Englishmen of note the Duke of suffolke and an English Bishop called Parker of the house of Morley I read their seueral Epitaphs vpon the wall of this Cloister neare the little doore that goes from hence into the Church but haue forgot them since 6 The Chappel where the Bones of the Frenchmen killed in the Battle of Pauia are kept and showne to strangers 7 In the Franciscans Church here lyes buryed Baldus the famous Iurisconsult 8 The long wodden Bridge couered ouer head with a perpetuall penthouse to deffend men as well from the Sun as from the rayne Of this towne were Ennodius Ticinensis and Lanfrancus Archbishop of Canterbury who wrot so learnedly against Berengarius for the Reall Presence He that desires to know the particular history of Pauia let him read Antonio Spelta and Sacco From Pauia we went to Milan same twenty miles off and in the way saw the famous Monastery of the Carthusians neare vnto which vpon S. Mathias his day a day fauorable to Charles the V seeing he was borne on that day crowned Emperour on that day and got this Victory on that day was fought that memorable battle between the sayd Emperours forces and the French King an 1525. where Francis the I. of France was taken prisoner haueing lost the day not for want of courage but conduct for he had a little before sent away halfe of his army to the conquest of Naples by which he so weakened the rest of his army here that he both lost the day and did nothing against the kingdome of Naples A great fault obserued by one that was present there to wit Monsieur Monluc Francis being thus taken prisoner was presently conducted to the Carthusians Monastery which was hard by Entering into the Church and finding the Monks singing in the third houre this verse of the Psalme Coagulatum est sicut lac cor eorum egovero legem tuam meditatus sum he struck up with them at the next verse and sung aloud with a piety as great as his losse or courage Bonum mihi quia humiliasti me vt discam iustificationes tuas that is it s well for mee that thou hast humbled me that I may learne thy iustifications After he had heard Masse here he was carryed to dinner in the Monastery and was serued by three Generals of the Spanish Army Launoy Bourbon and the Marquis of Vasti the one holding the basin the second powring water vpon his hands and the third presenting him the Towel Some say he refused to bee serued by Bourbon looking vpon him as a revolted Trayter rather then as an ennemy indeed the braue Frënch Knight Bayard surnamed the Cheualier sans peur who died in this battle being found expireing in the feild by Bourbon who sayd to him Poore Bayard I pitty thee answered him with all the courage and life that was left him No Traytor J am not to be pittyed who dye nobly seruing my King and country but thou rather art to be pittied who liuest à Traytor to thy king and country As for the King he was led prisoner into Spayne where he was kept at Madrid till he payed his ransom Hence the Spaniards brag that they had once a French king prisoner and the French had neuer any King of Spayne prisoner but the French answer that their King had not been prisoner had he fought as the Kings of Spayne do of late that is by Proxie and not in person Howeuer this Francis the first deserued better fortune being A Prince of great courage and honour and a great louer of his souldiers For not long before he had beaten the Swissers in the battle of San Donato where his souldiers fought for him with singular courage and zeale And hee had deserued it all For he was so good to his souldiers in that expedition that he would ride vp and downe the campe in the night to visit the wounded souldiers and help them to all necessaries commanding euen His owne sheets to be cut in peeces to binde vp their wound● As for the Monastery it self of the Charthusians it s one of the most stately Monasteries of Jtaly and I beleeue the second of that Order The great Cloister is all couered with lead The Church is one of the hansomest of Italy though built a la Tedesca The Frontispice of it is adorned with a world of heads and figures of white marble The Chappels within are richly adorned and painted The Tabernacle is worth fourscore thousand crownes The tombe of their founder Iohn Galeazzo Visconti Duke of Milan which stands a little without the Quire with the cumbent statues of Ludouico Moro the last Duke of Milan and his wife lyeing vnder the other is a stately Monument In the Sacristy we were showne many fine Relicks much rich Church-plate and a curious back of an Altar of Yuory cut into histories after a rare māner Passing from hence we came to Milan This towne is surnamed the Great and rightly seing it carryes full ten miles in compasse within the walls It hath ten gates to it two hundred Churches within it and three hundred thousand souls dwelling in it Hence it was anciently called Altera Roma a second Rome both because of its greatness and because of its other titles which made it looke like Rome It s the Head of the best Dutchy in Europe which is a hundred miles long from North to South and containeth four hundred townes in it It s called Milan quasi Midland being a pure Mediterranean Towne and hauing which is a wonder not so much as a riuer of its owne running by it but is onely serued by two Channels cut out of the Ticine and the Adder This towne hath heretofore suffered much by warre great townes being the fairest Markes to shoot at and Milan hath been forty times shot at by Sieges and twenty times Hit and taken haueing had the misfortune to haue been vnder diuers factions and Rulers as the Emperours the Turriani the Visconti the Sforze the French and the Spaniards who now keep it mercè al Castello which staueth of all tempts of strangers France pretends to this Dutchy as heire of Valentia Visconty who was marryed to Lewis Duke of Orleans whose house was excluded from this Dutchy by Francis Sforza who possessed himself of this State As for the things which I saw in Milan they are these 1. The store of Gentry and Nobility here which I perceiued to be very numerous

passe their time more cheerfully But for the most part they liue alone condemned to the melancholy horror of their crimes and the solitude of seauen whole weeks in Lent when vpon payne of rigorous punishments and imprisonment they dare not admitt of any customers The like rigour is vsed against them also in Aduent that dureing the space of those holy times these vnholy women may haue time to think of themselues and admit of Gods holy inspirations for their amendment Is it not a punishment to them to be obliged to enter their names publickly in the list of whores For if Tacitus obserues that the old Romans satis paenarum aduersum impudicas in ipsa professione flagitij apud Aediles credebant thought it punishment enough against vnchast women in their very profesing themselues to be such before the Aedils I cannot but think it a great punishment to Christian whores who are at least as sensible as the heathens of the horrible disgrace of haueing their name listed to be thus defamed for euer by remaining whores vpon Record Is it not a punishing of them to depriue them all their life time as long as they liue whores of the holy Sacraments and after their death of Christian Burial Is it not a punishment and a deterring of them from vice to throw their bodyes when they dye into an obscure place out of the walls of the towne as if they deserued no other Burial place then that of Asses Is it not in fine a punishment to them not to be allowed to make any Will or Testament but to leaue all their goods confiscated either to the Hospitals of poore honest girles or to the maintaining of those gards that are to watch ouer their deportments If these punishments both of body soul and honour be inflicted vpon whores in Rome as they are do not vrge any more that whores are not punished in Rome nor discountenanced But why doth not the Pope punish them home and roote them quite out by banishment This hath been attempted by diuers Popes and namely by Pius Quintus of happy memory as Thuanus in his history writes but seeing greater inconueniences and greater sinns arose vpon it prudence which is the salt that must season all moral actions thought it not fit to carry on that rigour nor yet allow of fornication neither So that all the permission of whores in Rome that can colourably be imagined is onely a not punishing of them in all rigour and euen that too for a good end and to hinder greater euils But the Pope being both a Temporal and an Ecclesiastical Superiour is bound in my mind to break through all respects and settle innocency in the world It s zealously spoken and I wish he could do it but difficilem rem optas generis humani innocentiam he wisheth a hard thing who wisheth for the innocency of mankinde sayth a wiseman And if Princes sometimes do not punish factious subiects when they see that the punishing of them would pull the whole State in peeces ouer their heads and put the whole kingdome in danger as it did in Henry the Thirds time in France vpon his causeing of the Duke of Guise to be killed in Blois If Generals of armyes take no notice of some treacherous commander who is vniuersally beloued by the soldiers least the punishing of one man loose them the affection of the whole army as we saw latey in the case of Lubemirsky how truely guilty I know not and some yeares ago I remember in the case of Walstein whose punishment had almost vndone the Emperor why may not the Pope without approueing the sinn of whores prudently waue the punishing of it with all rigour when he sees that such rigour would cause greater disorders in that hot nation and in that citie where all nations seeme to club vices as well as vertues Hence learned Abulensis a great Diuine sayth Licet leges humanae aliqua mala permittant non puniendo nullum tamen malum permittunt statuendo But the Pope should not gouerne according either to human policy or human Lawes and Examples You pretend zeale but you would do well to take her sister Prudence with her as our Sauiour did who when he heard his disciples desireing him to let them call downe fire from heauen vpon the criminal Samaritans answered them calmely you know not of what spirit you are Nay doth not God himself who being able to punish all criminal persons and roote them quite out of the world suffer both his Sun to rise and shine vpon sinners and sinners to offend in this sunshine and often by it Hence S. Thomas sayth much to my purpose Humanum regimen deriuatur a diuino regimine ipsum debet imitari Deus autem quamuis sit omnipotens ac summ● bonus permittit tamen aliqua mala fieri in vniuerso quae prohibere posset ne iis sublatis maiora bona tollerentur vel maiora mala sequerentur Humane gouerment is deriued from diuine gouerment and ought to imitate it Now God allthough he be allmighty and highly good yet he permits euils to be done in the world which he could hinder least by taking away them greater goods should be taken away or greater euils should follow But I wade too farre into this puddle yet remember who thrust me into it and you l pardon me Behinde the Church and Conuent of the foresayd Penitents stands the Church of San Syluestro in Capite so called from the picture of our Sauiours head and face which our Sauiour himself made by miracle and sent to Abagarus King of Edessa as you may read at length in Baronius and in Bosius in his rare booke called Roma Sotterranea Now this picture is kept here in this monastery and with great probability seing it was here that diuers Greek Monks driuen out of their country by Constantin Copronimus for the defence of sacred Jmages were entertained by the Pope Paul the First and it s very likely that these good men brought with them this famous picture of our Sauiour to saue it from the fury of the Iconoclasts Returning from hence into the Corso againe I went to see there the Colonna d'Antonino the Great Pillar of Antoninus the Emperor It s built iust like that of Traian described aboue It was built by Marcus Aurelius Antoninus the Emperor in honour of his Father Antoninus Pius It s all of white marble engrauen without with a basso rilieuo from top to bottom containing the memorable actions of Marcus Aurilius It s 175 foot high hath in it 206 stairs which lead vp to the top of it and 56 little windows giuing light to those stairs and yet this high Pillar was made of 28 stones of marble The caruing that is vpon it contains the braue actions of Marcus Aurelius ouer che Armenians Parthians Germans Wandals and Sarmats or Polonians but age hath so defaced these

and Land Its ayre was alwayes esteemed so pure that the great men of Rome had either their Villas in Naples or hard by It s well built well paued well furnished with excellent prouisions well filled with nobility and the nobility well mounted The chief street is strada di Toledo paued with freestone and flanckt with noble Pallaces and houses We entered into some of them and others we saw which had not recouered their embonpoint since they had been sick of Mazaniellos disease Their very looks shewd vs that their sickness had been Conuultion-Fitts The chief Pallaces are these The stately Pallace of the Viceroy that of Grauina Caraffa Vrsino Sulmone Toledo c. Most of the houses of Naples are made flat at top to walk vpon a most conuenient thing to breath vpon in the fresh Euenings and easy to be imitated by other countryes I saw here also the seueral publick places of Assemblyes of the nobility according to their seueral rancks These places are like open walking places rayld about with high iron rayles and painted within Then the Molo running a quarter of a mile into the Sea 〈…〉 and affording great refreshment to the townes men who walk here in the euenings in sommer where they are sure to coole their lungs with a sweet fresco At the end of the Molo stands mounted the high Lanterne to direct ships home safe in the night and a fine fountain of fresh water As for the Churches here they yeeld to none in Italy The Domo is ancient and therefore out of the mode a little yet it hath a moderne Chappel which is very beautifull and is one of the finest in Europe both for brazen statues rich painting The Cupola was painted by the rare hand of Domenichino In this Chappel is the tombe of S. Ianuarius Bishop of Beneuent and now Patron of this towne whose blood being conserued in a little glasse and concrete melts and growes liquid when it s placed neare to his Head and euen bubles in the glasse A French nobleman Count of la Val was conuerted from Caluinisme to the Catholick Religion vpon sight of this wonder On the left hand of this Chappel without lyes buryed Pope Innocent the IV who ordered first that Cardinals should weare red hatts The Verses vpon his Tomb● told me this In the Sacristy are kept many pretious guifts of Princes and diuers Relicks of Saints enchased in gold and syluer The Annunciata is both neat and deuout the Cupola and roof are well painted guilt The two Infants of Bethleem with their seueral wounds one in the head the other in the body are showne here The Hospital is ioyneing to it and is of great reception It maintaines two thousand sick and decrepid in it besides aboue 800 orphans poore children Neare the great Hospital stands S. Peters Church and before it th● Altar vpon which as the Inscription sayth S. Peter sayd masse at his first comeing to Naples The Theatins Church called S. Pauls is very neat and if you saw it with its best hangings on you would think it one of the neatest Churches in Italy The roof is curiously painted and guilt Here I saw the rich Tombe of Beato Caëtano a holy man of this Order and the Tabernacle of the High Altar both very rich In the Sacristy they ha●● as rich ornaments as in any Church of Italy The Iesuits Church here is the best they haue in Italy if it be not a little too wide for its length In the Sacristy I saw the richest ornaments for the Altars and the best syluer candlesticks that I haue seen any where els It s rich in painting sculptures marble The High Altar was not yet finished but promiseth wonders The Franciscans Church called S. Maria Noua is very trim with its neat Chappels and Tombes and guilt roof Here I saw the Tombe of Lotrech who commanded so long the French forces in this kingdome His vertue in military affairs was so great that his very enemye● admireing his worth haue caused his body to be translated out of an obscure place where it lay before into this Church and Tombe I wonder they did not cause those words of Virgil to be put vpon it Si Pergama dextr● defendi possent etiam hâc defensa fuissent The Church of the Dominicans is very hansome too if you do not surprise it and take it before it be dressed I saw it once in its best attire hung with a rare sute of embrodered hangings which set it out with great aduantage I saw also here the Crucifix which spoke to S. Thomas of Aquin the Doctor of this Order and Country and sayd Benè de me scripsisti Thoma In the Sacristy of this Church are kept in seueral coffins some couered with white some with black veluet the bodyes of seueral great persons depositated here till their Tombes should be made as of Alphonso the first King of Naples and Arragon of Queen Ioanne the vnfortunate that of an Emperor of Constantinople that of Durazzo that of the Marquis of Vasti with diuers others The Church of the Oliuetan Fathers is stately here lyes buryed Alexander ab Alexandro a great antiquary whose ingenious booke Genialium dierum giues light to many bookes by the vnshelling of a world of ancient customes of the Romans In this Church also is the Tombe of braue Marchese di Piscara surnamed the Thunderbolt of warre The words vpon this Tombe are so ingenious that though I professe not to set downe many Epitaphs in this my voyage I cannot but striue to carry them into other countyes They are these Quis iacet hoc gelido sub marmore Maximus ille Piscator belli gloria pacis hon●s Nunquid hic pisces cepit Non Ergo quid Vrbes Magnanimos Reges oppida regna duces Dic quibus haec cepit Piscator retibus Alto Consilio intrepido corde alacrique manu Qui tantum rapuere ducem Duo Numina Mars Mors. Vt raperent quidnam compulit Jnuidia Nil nocuere ipsi viuit nam Fama superstes Quae Martem Mortem vincit Inuidiam The Church of S. Iohn Carbonare is considerable for it self but much more for the stately Tombe in it of King Robert In the Church of the Nunnery which stands at the foot of the hill as you go vp to the Carthusians I saw a most curious Tabernacle vpon the Altar of pretious polished stones It s one of the richest I haue seen any where but that of Florence described aboue Then we mounted vp that windeing hill to the Carthusians Church and Monastery called S. Martins It s the most sumptuous thing in all Europe for a Monastery whether you regard its situation or its fabrick It s situated vpon a high hil lvnder the wing of the Castle S. Elmo to put Castles in mind that they ought to defend and protect Religion The whole quandrangle or cloyster of this Monastery

subscribed vnto by the hands of the Pope and Cardinals on the one side and by the Emperour of Constantinople with the Patriarch of Constantinople and the Greek Bishops on the other side and authenticated by the leaden seale of the Pope and the golden seale of the sayd Emperour is kept in the Archiuiis or Registers of Bologna In this Council both the Pope of Rome Eugenius the IV. and Paleologus the Emperour of Constantinople were present with the creame of Bishops both of the Easterne and Westerne Churches and in this Councell not onely the Procession of the Holy Ghost from the Father and the Sonn was vindicated but also Purgatory was proued to the Greeks out of their owne Greek Fathers as well as out of the Latin Fathers and diuers other points of coremony and practise were asserted and made good Vnto all which the sayd Emperour and Patriarch and the other Greek Bishops except restless Marcus Ephesinus subscribed as did also the Armenians Ethiopians Georgians and Iacobites who all hereupon were admitted to Communion by the Roman Church In fine in this Church you see the statues of diuers Saints who haue been Archbishops of this towne and the Tombes of diuers famous men as of Marsilius Ficinus the Platonick Christian Philosopher of Dante the Florentin Poët whose true picture is yet to be seen here in a red gowne of Ioannes Acutius an English Knight and General anciently of the Pisani as the old Gothick letters set high vpon the wall vnder his picture on horseback told me Yet Verstegan will not haue him to haue been called S r. John Sharpe but Sr. John Haukwood But it imports little to me what his name was seing he was a braue Englishman and deserued to haue his tombe and inscription here and his picture among the other worthyes in the Dukes Gallery Here 's also in this Church the tombe of Brunelleschi or Philippus Brunaltius who made the Cupola of this Church as also the tombe of Giotto who made the Campanile or fine steeple here In fine here lyes also Cimabue the famous painter of his time It was hee that first restored painting again which had been lost for many years in Italy and taught it to Giotto Gaddi Taffi and others who carryed it on to a great height 13. Neare to the Domo stands the Campanile or high Steeple of Florence made by Giotto It s a hundred and fifty braccie or little yards high and half as deep in the ground It s flat at top and crusted all ouer with curious little polished marble stones marble pillars and statues so that as Charles the V. sayd of it if it had a case to couer it withall and hinder it from beeing seen too frequently men would flock thither at the takeing off of this couer as to see a wonder Indeed it s a kind of wonder to see that in three hundred years space not the least part of that steeple all crust●d ouer with marble is perished There are diuers good statues on all sides of it but the best of them all is that of the Zuccone or bald man made by Donatello which hee himself esteemed so much that when he would affirme any thing seriously he vsed to say Alla fe ch'io porto al mio Zuccone and the same Donatello hauing finished it spoke to it in iest and sayd Fauella horsu fauella o ti venga il ca●asangue such good conceits haue fantastical men of themselues and their owne works 14. Neare to the Domo also standes the Baptistery or round Church of S. Iohn where all the children of the towne are baptized The brazen dores of it three in all are admirable especialy that which lookes towards the Great Church of which Michel Angelo being asked his opinion answered that it was so well made that it might stand at the entrance of Paradise These dores are all of Brasse historied into figures containing the remarkable historyes of both the Testamen●s They were the worke of braue Laurentius Cion who spent fifty yeares in makeing them a long time I confesse but this is it which Apelles called aeternitati pingere to worke things that will out-last brasse and be famous for euer Within this Baptisiery I saw a statue of S. Mary Magdalen of the hand of Donatello and it s a rare peece if you consider Magdalen in her pennance Here 's also a neat Tombe of Baltassar Cossa once called Iohn the XXIIII but deposed in the Council of Constance for the peace of the Church The Tombe of this Baltassar looking something like a cradle may be called the cradle of the greatness of the Medicean Family For some writers say that Cosmus Medices surnamed afterwards Pater Patriae being heire of this Baltassar Cossa who died at Florence In the house of Iohn Medices With the money that he found belonging to him after his death did such good deeds to the people that he wonne to him self the name of Pater Patriae and to his Family that credit which got it afterwards the supreame command 15. I cannot omit here to take notice of a little round pillar in the Piazza neare this Baptistery with the figure of a tree in iron nayled to it and old words engrauen vpon it importing that in this very place stood anciently an Elmetree which being touched casualy by the hearse of S. Zenobius as they carryed it here in procession the tree presently hereupon budded forth with green leaues of sweet odour though in the month of Ianuary In memory of which miracle this pillar was set vp in the same place for a memorial 16. From thence going to the Church of S. Mark belonging to the Dominicans I saw there the Tombe of S. Antoninus Archbishop once of this towne and a Fryar of this order The Tombe is vnder the Altar in a neat Chappel on the left hand made by Iohn di Bologna In this Church also I saw a rare picture of S. Mark made by Bartholomeo del Frate it stands full in your sight as you enter into the Church and a man must be blind not to see it and dull not to like it On the left hand as you enter into the Church is the Tombe of Picus Mirandula commondly called the Phoenix of Princes with this Epitaph written vpon the side of the Wall Ioannes iacet hîc Mirandula caetera norunt Et Tagus Ganges forsan Antipodes Neare this tombe is a fine picture vpon an Altar where two Little Angels are made playing vpon Musical instruments These Angels are held to be the rarest peeces that can be seen in painting They are of the hand of Bartholomeo del Frate In the Conuent of these Fryars I saw often their still house where they make and sell excellent extractions and cordiall waters There is also a neat Library here filled with good books 17. Turning from hence on the seft hand I came presently to the Annuntiata a place of

great deuotion The pictures of Faith and Charity ouer the Arch in the Antiporto or open portch built vpon pillars are of the hand of Iacomo Pontorno being but yet nineteen years old which when Michel Angelo first saw he sayd This Iacomo if he continue thus will carry vp painting to the skies Entring into the little court that stands before the Church dore you see it painted round about in Fresco by rare hands Those peeces that Andrea del Sarto made are the best and his head in white marble is set in the wall In the cloyster ouer the dore that goes into the Church is seen a rare picture in fresco vpon the wall● of the hand of Andrea del Sarto It represents our B. Lady with our Sauiour vpon her knee and S. Ioseph in a cumbent posture leaning upon a sack full stufft and reading in a booke The picture of the Blessed Virgin is admirable for sweetness and majesty This picture is called La Madonna del Sacco it got Andrea such credit that Titian himself preferred it before all the peeces he had euer seen and vsed often to say that it grieued him that he could not often satiate his sight with the beholding of so rare a picture and Michel Angelo talking once in Rome with Raphael Vrbin concerning painters sayd thus to him There is vn huom●e●tto a little fellow in Florence meaning this Andrea who had he been employed in great matters as thou art would make thee sweat againe Virtuosi make a great dispute which of those three painters was the most excellent Raphael Vrbin Michel Angelo or Andrea del Sarto But the wisest giue euery one his particular praise or excellency Raphael was excellent in colori Michel Angelo in designe and Andrea in makeing things seeme to be of rilieuo and looke as God made them that is pulpy and riseing vp like liuing flesh Haueing thus admired the worke of Andrea we entred into the Church of the Annunciata and there saw the curious syluer Altar behind vpon the wall is kept the miraculous picture of the Annunciation which giues the name of Annunciata to this Church The little picture of our Sauiour about a foot and a half long which is seen vpon the outside of the Tabernacle is of the foresayd Andreas hand much esteemed In this Church lyeth buryed Baccio Bandinelli a famous Sculptor in a curious marble tombe with his owne and his wifes picture engrauen in marble by his owne hand Behinde the Quire lyes buryed Ioannes di Bologna a famous Sculptor also as his seueral works in Florence shew him to haue been as the Rapt of the Sabins Before the old pallace The Centaure in the streets The Chappel of S. Antoninus in S. Markes Church This Chappel in the Annunciata here and the golden horse and man spoken of aboue in the Dukes Armory do wittness 18. From hence hauing first seen the Statue of the Great Duke Ferdinand on horseback in brasse which stands in the piazza before the Annunciata I went to the Church of the Franciscans called Santa Croce This Church is of a large bulk and height but somewhat too darke The side Altars are many and cheeked with round pillars and adorned with excellent pictures The pulpit would become A Chrysostome or A Chrysologue It s of white marble in which are grauen the most notable actions of S. Francis in a basso rilieuo I neuer beheld it but I found some new graces in it Somewhat behinde it neere to a little doore is the Tombe of Michel Angelo the Trismegist of Italy being the greatest Painter the greatest Sculptor the greatest Architect of his time Hence ouer his tombe and vnder his picture are placed three women in white marble representing Architecture Painting and Sculpture holding in their hands the seueral instruments belonging to these professions If you aske me whether of the two Painting or Sculpture is to be preferred though a blind man being chosen iudge once of this question when he was giuen to vnderstand that in the smooth painting there were head armes leggs hands and feet as well as in the bulky statue which he had felt iudged presently for painting yet Michel Angelo himself preferred Sculpture before painting as the body is to be preferred before the superficies of a body But to returne againe to the Tombe of this great artist I found some words vpon the tombestone but those so dull and hard to be read in that darke corner that one in the company chose rather to make him a new Epitaphe then read that which is written there and it was this Cur indignemur mortales morte perire Ecce stupor mundi hîc Angelus ipso perit And I think the moderne Roman was of the same mind too when he chose also to make him this Epitaph Roma mihi mortem tribuit Florentia vitam Nemo aliis vellet nasci obire locis In the midst of this Church I found buryed an English Bishop called Catrick who had been Embassador here from England and likely in the time of the Council of Florence His armes were three catts argent in a sable field In fine at the very end of this Church on the left hand stands a neat chappel with a painted Cupola belonging to the family of the Nicolini in which Chappel there are excellent statues and pictures 19. Not farre from hence stands the Abbadia an Abbey of Benedictin Monks In the Church is the tombe of the Founder of this Abbey a German nobleman called Conte Hugo who commanded Toscany vnder the Emperor Otho the III. The occasion of building this Monastery and many others by this Hugo is too long to tell and perchance would not finde beleef euery where It s told publickly euery yeare vpon S. Thomas his day in high Masse time here by some one or other of the chief witts of the Academy of the Crusca and he that 's curious to know it may heare it there as I did with great satisfaction 20. From thence I went to the Church of Santa Maria Nouella belonging to the Dominicans Here it is that the Councell of Florence spoken of aboue was held There are many good pictures in this Church as also diuers neat tombes of holy men and women and others among which that of Ioseph Patriarch of Constantinople who had been the blessed occasion and instrument of reduceing the Greek Church to the right faith againe is remarkable It s on the right side of the Church 21. Returning from hence along the riuer side we came to the high pillar with the Statue of Iustice in porphyry vpon it It was erected here because it was in this very place where Cosmus the great heard the news of the reduction of Siena A witty nobleman seeing this statue of Iustice vpon so high a pillar sayd that Iustice here was too high place-ed for poore men to arriue to it An other obserued that Iustice there turnes her back to the Courts of Iustice