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A29825 An account of several travels through a great part of Germany in four journeys ... : illustrated with sculptures / by Edward Brown ... Brown, Edward, 1644-1708. 1677 (1677) Wing B5109; ESTC R19778 106,877 188

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Correspondence and printed their Observations at Leipsick And since my Return into England I have been solicited from Cassovia in Upper Hungary to send the Transactions into those Parts During my stay at Vienna I went unto a publick Anato my of a Woman that was beheaded the Lecture lasted so long that the Body was Nineteen days unburied It was performed by a Learned Physician Dr. Wolfstregel who read in Latin to the satisfaction of all persons What I most particularly observed therein was this The Pyramidal Muscles very plain and large the Uterus larger than is usually observed the Cartilago Ensiformis double the Lungs very black the Eye was very well shown he produced an artificial Eye of Ivory and another large one of Pastboard and Paper contrived and made by himself the Muscles of the Pharynx Larynx Os Hyoides and the Tongue after their dissection he reduced very handsomely into their proper places again to shew their natural situation and position The Anatomy-Theatre was of capacity to receive above an hundred persons and according to the custome of other places to avoid impertinent Spectators a piece of Mony was given for admission Of Anatomy-Theatres until of late there have been few in Germany or none And when I was in the Anatomy-School at Altorff near Nurenburg that learned and civil Professor Dr. Mauritius Hoffmannus told me that the same was the First in Germany Paulus de Sorbait Prime Professor Physician unto Eleonora the Empress Dowager and Knight of Hungary was the Rector Magnificus Zwelfer who writ Animadversions upon the Dispensatory of Ausburg was in great repute in Vienna and had built for himself a noble House in the City but he died some time before my coming thither In fine the University is noble their Advancements considerable their Priviledges great and they have the power of life and death from ancient and latter Concessions of their Dukes and Emperours But the greatest lustre unto Vienna is the Residence of the present Emperour Leopoldus he was born in the year 1638. he was Son unto the Emperour Ferdinand the Third he was baptized by the Names of Leopoldus Ignatius Franciscus Balthazar Josephus Felicianus His eldest Brother Ferdinand King of the Romans died of the Small Pox in his Fathers time His Brother Carolus Josephus Master of the Teutonick Order dyed 1662. He married Margareta Infanta of Spain daughter unto King Philip the Fourth whose Children died Infants a vertuous affable grave and worthy Prince and seemed to me to live very happily here in the love and honour of his People Souldiers and Clergy His Person is grave and graceful he hath the Austrian Lip remarkably his Chin long which is taken for a good Physiognomical mark and a sign of a constant placid and little troubled mind He is conceived to carry in his Face the lineaments of four of his Predecessours that is of Rudolphus the First of Maximilian the First of Charles the Fifth and Ferdinand the First He was very affectionate unto his Empress who though but young was a modest grave Princess had a good aspect was zealous in her Religion and an Enemy unto the Jews He shewed also great respect and observance unto the Empress Dowager Eleonora who was a sober and prudent Princess well skilled in all kind of curious Works and delighted sometimes to shoot at Deer from a Stand or at other Game out of her Coach He was also very loving unto his Sisters beautiful and good Ladies whereof one the eldest was since married unto that Noble Prince Michael Wisnowitzski King of Poland He speaks four Languages German Italian Spanish and Latin He is a great countenancer of Learned Men and delighteth to read and when occasion permitteth will pass some hours at it The worthy Petrus Lambecius his Library Keeper and who is in great esteem with him will usually find out some Books for him which he conceiveth may be acceptable While I was there he recommended a Translation of Religio Medici unto him wherewith the Emperour was exceedingly pleased and spake very much of it unto Lambecius insomuch that Lambecius asked me whether I knew the Author he being of my own name and whether he were living And when he understood my near Relation to him he became more kind and courteous than ever and desired me to send him that Book in the Original English which he would put into the Emperours Library and presented me with a neat little Latin Book called Princeps in Compendio written by the Emperours Father Ferdinandus the Third He is also skilful in Musick composeth well and delighted much in it both at his Palace and the Church which makes so many Musicians in Vienna for no place abounds more with them and in the Evening we seldom failed of Musick in the Streets and at our Windows And the Emperours delight herein makes the Church-men take the greater care to set off their Church-musick for he goeth often to Church and not to one but divers especially the best Conventual Churches and in his own Chappel some of his own Compositions are often play'd He hath also excellent Musick in his Palace both Vocal and Instrumental and his private Chappel is well served where besides the excellent Musick there are always eight or ten Counts Pages to the Emperour who serve at the Altar with white wax Torches in their hands and after the manner of the Italian Princes divers Eunuchs to sing For his Recreations abroad he delighteth much in Hunting especially of the wild Boar in due seasons I have known him bring home six Boars in a morning Some stout persons particularly Count Nicholas Serini would encounter a wild Boar alone but at last he unfortunately perished by one which hath made others more wary since and therefore when the Boar is at a Bay the Huntsmen so stand about him that the Emperour or other great persons may more safely make use of their Boar-spears upon him Surely there are great numbers of them about the Country for they are no unusual or extraordinary Dish in the City though of a delicious and pleasing taste They feed upon Acorns Beech-mast and Chesnuts upon the spring or sprout of Broom Juniper and Shrubs and upon the roots of Fern and will range into Corn-fields and come out of Forrests into Vineyards The Huntsmen are notably versed and skilful in that Game for though they see it not they will distinguish a wild from a common Swine and ghess whether that which they hunt be Male or Female old or young large or small fat or lean and this they chiefly conjecture from their tread or foot and the casting their hindfeet out of the track of their forefeet The Emperour being so good a Huntsman it is the less wonder that he is esteemed a good Horsman Certain it is that he hath a very noble Stable of Horses procured from all parts Turkish Tartarian Polonian Transylvanian Saxon Bohemian Hungarian Naples c. and they are well managed and they ride them
how a Theatre for Comedies is now built in that place It is divided into eight Chambers or Rooms which are so well filled that many Books are fain to lye upon the Floor and the Shelves stand so close that there is but just room to pass between them The Manuscripts stand distinct from the printed Books according to their Languages being divided into six Classes Theological Juridical Medical Philosophical Historical Philological There can scarce be a more admirable Collection than the Manuscripts in part of the first Chamber of Hebrew Syriack Arabick Turkish Armenian Aethiopick and Chinese Books It was begun at least the Books began to be placed in this receptacle by Maximilian the First but hath been much encreased by succeeding Emperours most of them since Rodolphus the First being much addicted unto Learning there having been large accessions from many noble Libraries and most upon the cost of the Emperours The choicest Books in the famous Library of Buda of King Matthias Corvinus Son unto Huniades are now in it The notable Library of Wolfgangus Lazius who was Library-Keeper was brought hither and Three thousand Books of Johannes Sambucus are now in this Repository Augerius Busbequius sometime Library-Keeper hereof added much unto it and in his two Turkish Embassies procured great number of noble Greek Manuscripts at Constantinople which are inscribed with his own hand Aug. de Busbeck emit Constantinopoli A great many were added from the Library of the Learned Johannes Cuspinianus Library Keeper and Counsellor unto the Emperour The notable Libraries and Mathematical Instruments of Tycho Brahe Kepler and Gassendus were purchased for it But the largest accession was made by the noble Library of Count Fugger which consisting of sixteen thousand Volumes was purchased by Ferdinand the Third Many were brought some few years past from the Ambrasian Library by Inspruck by the Learned Petrus Lambecius Library Keeper Historiographer and Counsellor unto the present Emperour who hath also an excellent Library which is like to be added unto the Imperial He then reckoned the Volumes in this great Library to amount at least to Fourscore thousand and by this time that number may be increased for he addeth some yearly And the number might almost be endless if they would make use of their priviledge for the Emperour hath a right to have two Books of all that are printed in Germany They have also a great advantage at Vienna to acquire good Manuscripts from the Turkish Dominions for the Emperour is obliged to have a Resident with the Grand Signor wheresoever he moveth or ordereth him to be even at the last sight of St. Godart the Emperour 's Resident was in the Turkish Camp And when I was at Larissa in Thessaly the Resident Signor di Casa Nova was inquisitive after Books to be found among the Greeks in Monasteries and other places And this Emperour like his Father will spare no cost toward such Acquiries By the especial favour of my noble Friend Lambecius I went many times into this Library and he was so courteous as to let me have what Books I desired unto my private Lodging He would shew me divers Books upon what Subject I required and offered me a sight of what Books he thought rare and estimable and amongst others I could not but take notice of these following A Letter of the present Emperour of China in the Chinese and Tartarian Languages unto the present Emperour of Germany weaved in a very fine Roll. Another old Roll written in unknown Letters yet a little resembling the Greek A Book in the Runick Language A very fair Manuscript of Ptolomy with the Mapps drawn in Colours The oldest Manuscript and true Exemplar of Livie in large Letters without distinction of Words or Sentences very uneasie to be read a thousand years old and brought not many years since from the Library near Inspruck An old fair Greek Manuscript of Dioscorides written eleven hundred years since in very large Letters without distance of Words or Accents wherein all the Plants are lively painted also the Pictures of Dioscorides Galen Pamphilus Cratevas and other ancient Physicians bought of a Jew at Constantinople for an hundred Ducats by Busbequius A Book of Geometrical Propositions demonstrated in the China Language Another fair one in the China Tongue with Pictures A noble old Greek Manuscript in great uncial Letters without stops points or distance of words An ancient Greek Manuscript of the Book of Genesis in large Letters without distance or accents thirteen hundred years ago wherein are Forty eight Pictures or Draughts in Miniature or Water colours much conducing to the knowledge of ancient Habits the manner of Feasting postures at Meals waiting of Servants and Musical Instruments Wherein I could not but take notice of the Golden Spot upon Josephs breast and the manner of the Execution of Pharaoh's Baker his Head being put through a forked piece of wood and his Hands tyed behind him A fair Book of Albert Durer wherein are many fine Paintings in Miniature or Limning as also a Sphere and within it a Globe carved and painted by him A fair Book of Michael Angelo wherein besides many rare things in Architecture are all the paintings and designs of the Belvedere in little A fair Alcoran in Arabick interlined with the Turkish to explain it The Bible in the Coptick and Persian Languages Luther's own Bible marked with his own Hand and interlined by him with Notes in many places A fair Greek Manuscript of the New Testament fifteen hundred years ago written in Letters of Gold upon Purple There was also a Magical Glass obtained by the Emperour Rodolphus whereby to see Apparitions and converse with Spirits which some conceive to be the same or of the like nature with that used by Kelly Of ancient Greek Roman and Gothick Medals and Coyns in Gold Silver and Copper to the number of sixteen thousand Among the Copper Coyns they pretend to have two of the Emperour Marcus Otho I let fall some Drops into this Ocean adding some Coyns Intaglia's and Inscriptions not to be found in that large work of Gruterus which having found in the Emperours furthest Dominions and Turkish parts long out of his possession where there had been no great enquiry after them were shewed unto his Imperial Majesty by Petrus Lambecius and so well accepted by him that he said I might have the use of what Books I desired and at my return into England he gave me a formal Pass in Latin for my safe Travel and that my Trunks or Goods might not be searched which takes off a great deal of trouble in passing so many Principalities and free Cities Commanding all in his own Dominions and Requesting all Princes in Germany to favour me and permit me to pass freely without molestation It was thus Subscribed Leopoldus Leopoldus Gulielmus Comes in Kinigseggs Ad mandatum Sacr. Caes Majestatis proprium Beüer The Rarities of the great Duke of Tuscany The Treasure of Loretto
to the satisfaction of the Beholders Having seen the Arsenal at Venice the Stores at Chatham and the Naval Provisions at Amsterdam I am not like to admire any other especially so far from the Sea and looked for nothing of that nature in this place Notwithstanding I found an Arsenal and place for Naval Vessels to be set out upon occasion and some thereof were employed in the last Turkish war when they attempted to destroy the Bridge of Boats which the Turks had made over the Danube a little above Gran and Barehan They are built somewhat like Galleys carry great Guns and a good number of Souldiers and will make a sight upon the broad deep stream of the Danube and may be handsomely brought into the Town behind one of the Bastions when the River is high and hereof there are some at Rab and Komora as I have declared elsewhere The Emperour hath many Counsellors great Souldiers and Courtiers about him among which these seemed of greatest Note Eusebius Wenceslaus Duke de Sagan Prince Lobkowitz Pirme Counsellor Hoff-meister of the Order of the Golden Fleece a person of a grave and sober Aspect somewhat blunt in conversation but of a generous temper and free from all covetousness who spent his Revenues nobly and unto his great reputation He was chief Favorite unto the Emperour and though some had no great opinion of his Abilities yet he was the first that discovered the last Hungarian defection and revolt whereby those Noble Persons Count Peter Serini and Nadasti whom I saw at Vienna were brought unto their ends Henricus Gulielmus Count of Stahrenberg Ober-hoff-Mareschal or Lord Marshal of the Court. Johannes Maximilianus Count of Lamburg Oberst-Kammer-Herr or Chief of the Chamber a Person of great esteem The Gentlemen of the Bed-chamber are numerous and many are in extraordinary there may be an hundred of them all Barons and Counts Every one of them wears a Golden Key before his Breast and the Grooms of the Bed-chamber wear one of Steel Two of each attend every Night Gundakerus Count Dietrichstein Oberst-Stall-Meister or Chief Master of the Horse These are the Chief These following are also considerable Count Sinzendorff Oberste-Jag-Meister Grand Veneur or Hunts-Master a Person in good favour with the Emperour who very much delighteth in Hunting as have most of his Predecessors The Count of Aversberg Oberst Falken-Meister Chief Falconer who hath twelve Falconers under him The Count of Paar Chief Master of the Emperours Post Leopoldus Wilhelmus Marquiss of Baden Captain of an hundred Hartshires who are the Horse-guard and ride with Pistols and Carabines out of the City but within Vienna they cary Launces and Javelins with broad points Franciscus Augustinus Count of Wallensteyn Captain of an hundred of the Foot-guard of a good Personage and well esteemed of by the Emperour Sixty or more Pages for the number is uncertain and not limited most of them Counts and Barons Raymundus Count de Montecuculi was his General President of the Council of War Governour of Rab and the Confines about it and of the Order of the Golden Fleece a tall Person somewhat lean but hath a spirit in his look he is one of the oldest Commanders in Europe and performed good Service in Poland Hungary Germany in many places and is esteemed a prudent valiant and successful Commander The Count de Souches was also a Commander of great Fame and in high esteem with the Emperour He was a Native of Rochelle he first served the Swedes in the German wars and was a Colonel but upon some disgust he forsook the Swedes and served the Imperialists and was made Governour of Brin the second Town in Moravia After the taking of Crembs in Austria General Torstenson besieged Brin and sent word unto the Governour de Souches That if he refused to deliver up the Town he would give him no quarter Who answered him That he would not ask any and also give none and defended the place with such resolution that after many Assaults Underminings and Attempts by Granado's Torstenson was forced to rise after a Siege of four months which was so advantagious unto Austria and the Imperial affairs that the Emperour took especial notice of him made him a Baron and of his Privy Council He commanded also all the Forces in Vienna and did notable Service in the last Turkish wars He took the City of Nitra or Nitria not far from Strigonium or Gran and took and slew six thousand Turks which were sent by the Vizier of Buda against him a worthy Person and of a good Aspect Count Souches the younger his Son an Heroick Commander is Governour of the strong fortified place Leopoldstadt by Freistadt a Person of great Civility unto whom I was much obliged Count Lesly Nephew unto Count Lesly who was sent Ambassadour to Constantinople to the Sultan from the Emperour is a Commander worthy of that esteem he hath with the Emperour a Person of great Courage Civility and Humanity which I must ever acknowledge The Courts of the Empress and of the Empress Dowager are filled with Persons of Note and there are a great number of Souldiers in this place of great Fame as the Marquiss Pio Spork Cops and many more Many of the Clergy and Men of Learning are in good esteem with the Emperour but the Jesuites Milner and Boccabella are his near Favorites Many Strangers both Souldiers and Scholars have built their Fortunes here And surely Strangers of parts and industry so they be of the Roman Church are not like to raise their Fortunes any where better than in these parts Though the Emperour goeth not to war in Person yet hath he been successful in his wars especially in the last Battel with the Turks at St. Godart where the business was handsomly and actively managed to set upon the body of the Turks which had passed the River Rab before the whole Forces of the Vizier could come over to the great slaughter of the Janisaries and Turks who fought stoutly and were first put to a Retreat by the French Cavalry For at first the Turks seemed to prevail and had slain a great part of two Regiments of the Auxiliaries which came out of Franconia and after their custome had cut off their Heads Among the many notable things in Vienna the Imperial Library is very remarkable He who hath seen the Bodleian Library at Oxford and the Vatican at Rome would be much surprised to find such a notable one here as may compare with them especially upon the extreme Borders of the Learned part of Europe The number and nobleness of the Books doth much exceed the receptacle or place which containeth them as making no fair shew at the entrance and somewhat wanting light But as for the number and value of the Books they are of opinion here that it yieldeth unto none but rather excelleth any other Library in Europe There was a place designed for the building of a fit receptacle for them but I know not
Furnace where the Litharge is driven off agreeth better with the Figure of it in Agricola than those of Hungary some of the Litharge is green Their Buck-work and their Engines which pound the Ore the Coal and Clay are also very neat Much of their Ore is washed especially the poorest and that which is mixed with stones quarts or sparrs This is peculiar in their working that they burn the pounded and washed Ore in the Roasthearth before they melt it in the Smeltzoven or melting Furnace At these Mines of Hungary where I was they used not the Virgula divina or forked Hazel to find out Silver Ore or hidden Treasure in the Earth and I should little depend thereon but here they have an esteem of it And I observed the use thereof and the manner how they did it But I shall omit the Description of it because it is set down in divers Books and it cannot be so well described as shown to the Eye I saw also another Mine called Auff der Halsbrucker about eighty of our Fathoms deep and much worked They have divers sorts of Ore but they contain either Silver and Copper Silver and Lead or all three but they work them only for Silver They have divers damps in these Mines where it is deep The Mines are cold where the outward Air comes in but where not warm The greatest trouble they have is by dust which spoileth their Lungs and Stomachs and frets their Skins But they are not so much troubled with water and have very good Engins to draw the water out The Sulphur or Brimstone Ore which is found here is also rich it is hard and stony as other Ores are that which hath red spots is accounted the best They use a peculiar Furnace to melt the Brimstone from the Ore some whereof yieldeth three pounds of Sulphur out of an hundred weight of Ore which as it melteth runneth out of the Furnace into water or the Exhalations from the Ore near or in the Fire are condensed into Brimstone by the Surface of the Water placed to receive it this is once again melted and purified Some of the Brimstone Ore containeth Silver some Copper and some both in a small proportion Two Miners in their habits Virgula Divina The figure of an Iron retort such as are vsed at the quicksilver worke at Idria The other use and which is more considerable is for the making of Vitriol or Copperose in this manner They take the Ore out of which the Brimstone hath been already melted and burn it once again or let it still burn in the open Air then putting it into a large Fatt they pour water upon it so as to imbibe and drink in the Vitriol this Water is afterwards boyled to a sufficient height and let out into the Coolers where sticks are set in it as in the making of Sugar Candy The purest Chrystallized Vitriol sticks unto the wood the rest to the sides and bottom Thus the Sulphur Ore after the Sulphur is taken out of it still worketh upon the Silver Ore and openeth the Body of it in the Fire but when this Ore is also deprived of its Vitriol it worketh no more upon Metals Friberg is a round well-walled City hath handsome Streets a Piazza the Elector's Castle and five Gates the Church of St. Peter is fair where many of the Dukes and Ducal Family have been buried and have fair Monuments especially Duke Mauritius Elector of Saxony whose Monument in black Marble is raised three piles high adorned with many fair Statua's in Alabaster and white Marble and esteemed one of the noblest if not the best in Germany And when this Town was surrendred unto Holck and Gallas Octob. 5. 1632. the Duke of Saxony paid 80000 Dollars to save the Monuments of his Predecessours from being ransacked and defaced it being the fashion of divers German Princes to be buried in their Robes with their Ensigns of Honour Rings Jewels and the like which would have been booty and probably have run the same fortune as the Cloister of Haibron within twelve English miles of Nurenberg where some of the Marquisses of Onspach who are of the Electoral House of Brandenburg lye entombed where Tillie's Souldiers brake open the Vault and robbed the dead Corpses of the Marquisses George Frederick and Joachim Ernest of the Jewels Rings and other rich Ornaments with which they were entombed There are some Vaults and Subterraneous Cavities in the City by which there are passages into the Mines This place was formerly streightly besieged by the Emperour Adolphus for the space of a year and a month and at last betrayed by a Fugitive who let in a party of the Emperours into the Town by a Subterraneous Passage near St. Donats Gate and upon the continual Batteries made at the Town and concussion of the Earth about it the Earth sunk down in many places and swallowed great numbers of the Emperours Army These Mines afford great benefit unto the City and also unto the Elector They are said to have been found out in the year 1180. But there have been other Silver Mines discovered since as at Schneeberg at Anneberg and at Joachims Dale 1526. Having passed some time at Friberg I ordered my Journey for Leipsick and travelling by Waltheim and Coldick came unto it Leipsick is seated upon the River Elster which arising in Vortland or Terra Advocatorum passeth by it and afterwards runneth into the River Sala It is a rich and great trading City hath three Marts in the year and great resort unto it from many parts It is well-built and divers Houses are seven stories high The Castle is strictly guarded and hath in it a strong white Town But the Works about the Town are not very considerable although they might be made strong The Church of St. Nicholas is well adorned and hath the name to be the fairest within side of any Lutheran Church in Germany they have also a remarkable Burial-place or Godtsaker walled about and cloystered near the Wall wherein the better sort are buried as the rest in the middle and open part Which put me in mind of that noble Burial-place which I saw at Pisa in Tuscany called Il campo Santo because the Earth which the Emperour Frederick Barbarossa brought from the Holy Land for the Ballast of his Ships was laid upon that Ground Leipsick is famous for two great Battels fought near unto it in the last Swedish wars one between Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden and Count Tilly General of the Imperialists 1631. wherein the Swedes obtained a great Victory Tilly was wounded fled and lived not long after Another some years after in the same place wherein Leonard Torstenson the Swede overcame Archduke Leopoldus Gulielmus and Octavio Piccolomini Generals of the Imperial Army And about a mile and a half from hence at Lutzen another great Battel was fought 1632. between the King of Sweden and the Imperial Army commanded by Albert Wallensteyn Duke of Friedland