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A07323 A declaration of the estate of clothing now vsed within this realme of England 1 The royaltie and benefit of wooll and woollen cloth. 2 The condition of the makers, being two sorts. 3 The antiquitie and power of the alneger. 4 The manner of search and searchers, now vsed. 5 The seuerall faults and abuses practised in cloth. 6 The inconuenience and hurt by the abuses. 7 The remedie to be made by the alnegers prouision. VVith an apologie for the alneger, shewing the necessarie vse of his office. Written by Iohn May, a deputie alneger. May, John, fl. 1613. 1613 (1613) STC 17710; ESTC S120174 26,796 60

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ordaine for them There was of late a mad braind felowe which came by a company of workemen that were digging vp of a well to plant a pumpe in the place hee demaunded who set them a worke they answered the parson churchwardens and maisters of the parish he replyed againe they vnderstood not themselues for thereby they should bee forced to alter their church booke wherein it was written Praise God all yee springs and wells and now it must bee Praise God all yee springs and pumps which fryuolous and vaine question of his may bee compared to their exception which will goe no farther then the word of the law and neuer looke to the true intent of the same 39. El. cap. 20. A Statute was lately made concerning the abuses of clothes wherein orders were prouided that all sorts of clothes should be truely searched and their iust contents of length and weight set vpon euerie peece with the word searched vpon paine of forfeiture This law intended the generall good and reformation of all yet in regard there was but two counties nominated or a certaine circuit expressed which did before time most offend in those points all offendors in other places would stop that lawe from going any farther 43. El. cap. 10. Wherefore the next Parliament following vnderstanding that lawe to concerne the generall good as well as vnto the former limitation did make the same act to respectiuely extend vnto all and singular woollen broad clothes halfe clothes Kersies Cottons Dozens Penistones Frizes Rugges and all other woollen clothes of what nature kind or name soeuer they bee or shall bee made and to bee made within this Realme to bee viewed sealed searched and subiected to penalties in such like manner and forme and to such purpose and intents respectiuely as was limited to those clothes prouided for in the former lawe now whether can those newe draperies flie to shroud themselues from the reach of this lawe theit new names cannot helpe them if they bee called by any name the lawe takes hold of them or of any nature to serue any purpose the law takes hold of them they canne then pleade no priuiledge to free them from this law and orders but in yeelding obedience with true obseruance finde peace and happinesse The cause of this relation is to shew that some of these old deceits are practised in the new deuised stuffe wherefore as needefull to be reformed as the other so proceede thereunto Woolles beeing an excellent commoditie of it selfe and naturally without deceit is commonly abused by mingling in diuers kinds Deceit in mingling of woolles sometime fleece wools fell wooll and lambs wooll which are contrarie one to an other are put together which makes the cloth vneuen cockley pursey baudy and rewey Then the mingling of fine floxe with long wools yet course which beeing carded together doth holde spinning and working but most deceitfull in vse and wearing The vse of short thrums is likewise so ordered which they take and shred into short length and then lay it in steepe in strong lye or liquor which openeth the threds into wooll againe then card it with other wooll which is worse than the flox by making more vneuen in the spinning This abuse hath been put in practize so intollerable that it is certainely knowne clothes haue been made with two parts floxe and thrums and but one part in wooll which hath seemed good to the eye but in the wearing such weake strength as would not endure a fourth part of time like the perfit cloth If any make question whether those flox thrums or sorts of wooll should bee cast away or not put to vse It is knowne that seuerall sorts of commodities are appointed wherein they may bee lawfully put to vse and verie vendible but they with wicked purpose conuert them to great gaine but greater hurt worse than casting drosse into fine gold which is easily found by the basenesse and may bee purified againe but this abuse is like a poyson not found till past cure Deceits in the weaning The long thrums left of broadcloth which cannot be wrought to that shortnesse of narrow cloths those are cunningly knit together mingled with other yarne of better nature making the one helpe out the other for the ease of workemanship the inconuenience whereof is verie hurtfull for by reason of the many knots in such clothes which after the scouring are most of them burled out and afterwards shut vp againe by the mill but not so helped but couered for a time when this cloth comes to wearing in short time proues full of holles and vnseruiceable in wearing In slaying of their warps they will cast the yarne to proue fine about a foot broad by the listes which is so far as commonly the merchant or buyer lookes into them nor can they hauing the clothes pleighted and bound together with threds which will suffer no farther search into them vnlesse they should cut them vp which is seldome or neuer done the rest of the cloth wrapt through with a far courser yarne verie deceiuably A common thing it is for the weauer to couer a course warpe with a fine woofe the warp beeing spon hard and small and the woofe soft and round to couer the warpe from sight which in the working may somewhat appeare but in the wearing throughly found that is a daiely practize especially on clothes sould rough Besides they haue a practize in their woofe to shut in a fine woofe at both ends of their cloth which serueth for a muster to shewe but all the rest of the cloth farre worse the same ends also are better driuen in the loome with better workemanship Deceits in the Mill. When a cloth made with flox or thrums comes to the mill who would bee a true searcher and lay the fault open if their cunning preuented it not but they preserue such cloth by extraordinarie meanes with tallowe pigges dung and vrin which keeps ni the flox and suffereth the thicking If a cloth proue slender and will not thick kindly in the mill by reason of his defects then haue they medicine to helpe it with oatmeale and such like which will remaine in the cloth and make it seeme fast and thicke in the hand vntill it come to the dressing where all that stopping vanisheth leauing it to shame by the true fight of his substance When a cloth wanteth some of his substance or allowance in yarne which would soone bee found beeing cleane scoured thicked and dried they will not scoure the same cloth cleane but leaue a bad substance of oyle and seame in it thicking it vp in the same filth which proueth noisome in vse and wearing Deceits in man king vp of clothes Whereas the vse of tenters is altogether forbidden vpon rough clothes with great penalties therevpon yet in those countries where those rough clothes are made and so to bee solde many tenters are erected and vsed vpon such