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A48578 The city and republick of Venice in three parts / originally written in French by Monsieur de S. Desdier. S. Desdier, Monsieur de. 1699 (1699) Wing L2306; ESTC R34981 188,059 407

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with the same which is plac'd at the top of the Steeple with the Wings spread and the hand pointing to the Wind. The Walls of this Steeple are double on the inside between which you circulate insensibly ascending without any Steps until you come to the Bells insomuch as one is apt to believe that to raise such a building upon so mean a foundation the Expence under Ground cannot be much inferiour to that above from whence is discern'd their Dominion upon Terra firma as likewise several other places beyond that Sea Of the Religious Houses and Churches of Venice IT will be a difficult matter to find any City so fill'd with Churches as this of Venice there are 72 Parishes all serv'd by ordain'd Priests above 30 Monasteries and about 35 Convents of Religious Women besides several Chappels and a great many Confraternities of Penitents which are here call'd Schools much like those that were formerly and are yet in some Provinces of France I do not know what hath been the occasion of the Veneteans affecting to dedicate their Churches to the Saints of the old Testament there being several consecrated to St. Job St. Mones St. Daniel St Jeremy St. Samuel St. Zachary as if the Book of Martyrs was not sufficiently fill'd when they begun to build their Churches The greatest part of the Parish Churches are small neither are they the richest or best adorned those of the Convents both Men and Women are the most handsome and neat but some of the great Confraternities are incomparably more magnificently Built and better Furnish'd both with Pictures and noble Services of Plate The Venetians having a greater Inclination to these particular Devotions than for their Parish Churches which do not much affect them Yet nevertheless there is not that Church in Venice in which there is not something remarkable either for Painting or Architecture Those who are well acquainted with Venice are of the opinion that she hath near upon as many excellent pieces of Painting as all the other parts of Italy together for not only the major part of the Nobles Houses but likewise other particulars are fill'd with the choicest pieces yet much more the Churches and other publick Places whose Walls and Ceilings are cover'd with the the best Drawings of the greatest Masters The School or Confraternity of St. Roch hath the precedency for Riches beauty of Architecture and for the extraordinary number of Tintoret's Works That of St. Mark is not much inferior the Front being in Basse relief of extraordinary Marble and the inside wholly painted by the hand of the same Master which hath produc'd so vast a quantity of extraordinary Works that the life of another Painter would not be sufficient to execute what he did in two Years only at the Church of St. Roch. The Church of St. Sebastian is admirable both for its beauty and great number of pieces by Paul Veronese who lies there Interr'd That of St. Mary Major hath divers Works of Bassan extreamly fine but among all the modern Churches for Architecture that of our Lady Delta Salute must be reckon'd in the first place when finished it was built upon the occasion of a Vow the Republick made in hopes of being deliver'd from a great Plague the design is particular and its scituation admirable being at the entrance of the great Canal It is a great Octagonal that incloseth one not so large whose eight Pillars at the Angles support a very handsom Cupola The great Altar is at the lower end of a great Oval inrich'd with several curious Figures of white Marble which represent the driving away of that raging Sickness by the zeal and piety of the Republick there are six more Chappels in the other six sides of the Octagone with Altars and Ballusters of Marble the Porch and outside of the building is not much less adorn'd than the Inside The Church and Convent of St George Major that solely possesseth a little Island over against the Place of St. Mark at the distance only of a Musket shot are most noble buildings here is that admirable piece of the Marriage of Cana in Galilee it wholly takes up the end of the Refactory and is esteem'd for the Master-piece of Paul Veronese This Abby is of the Order of St. Benedict the Garden is the most agreeable Spot of Venice it is encompass'd with Terrass Walks rais'd like Ramparts from whence you behold whatsoever is worthy of observation in the Lagunes The Convent of St. John and Paul in the City is remakable for the fine Dormitory the Church is one of the largest but the Piece of St Peter the Martyr done by Titian's Hand is its finest Ornament it was both the Master-piece of that great Painter and one of the four finest in the World but is at present so much abused that it is in danger of being quite gone in 20 Years more it being not only kept in a bad place but likewise the Painters that are continually copying of it have already passed their sponges so often upon the Face of the Saint that the colour is in a manner quite extinguished notwithstanding all the care that is observ'd to prevent the Copyers from approaching it too nigh as likewise to prevent their working but upon particular leave There are at Venice several small Churches of an uncommon and particular agreeableness built by the Architects Sansouin and Du Palcadio the last of these never did any thing comparable to the Church of our Saviour at La Zueca it being much like to that of our Lady De La Salute and the effect of a Vow made by the Republick as it was design'd for the Capuchins who would not accept it in that magnificence it was first intended so one must allow that Du Palladio hath dexterously deceiv'd their Eyes and acquir'd a more than ordinary beauty to the simplicity of this Structure by building it according to the most exact rules of Art and Proportion rather than by the most ostentary decorations of Artichecture which may nevertheless be there in some measure admir'd the Roof is plain and even vaulted but thought to be too much declin'd It would be very tedious to enter into the particulars of all things of this Nature at Venice I shall content my self with mentioning only the great number of Mausoleum's that are in their Churches they being Erected to the Memory of almost all their Doge's and principal Senatoss The Venetians having been ever very careful in raising noble Monuments to the Virtue and Memory of their great Men by which means Venice abounds with a mighty number of fine Marble Sepulchres amongst which the magnificence of that for the last Doge Pasaro at the Cordelier's is much Esteem'd as likewise that of their victorious General Mocenigo at the Friers Mendicawts Of the Mercery and Rialto THese two places are the Richest in Venice best Peopled and the most agreeable to the Eye next to the Place of St Mark all that part from the