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B22628 Acetaria a discourse of sallets / by J. E. ... Evelyn, John, 1620-1706. 1699 (1699) Wing E3480 73,713 288

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amass'd a quantity of it and kept it in the Treasury till Julius Caesar rob'd it and took this away as a thing of mighty value In a word it was of that Account that as a sacred Plant those of the Cyrenaic Africa honour'd the very Figure of it by stamping it on the Reverse of their † Spanheim De usu Praest Numis● Dissert 4to It was sometimes also the Reverse of Jupiter Hammon Coin and when they would commend a thing for its worth to the Skies 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 grew into a Proverb Battus having been the Founder of the City Cyrene near which it only grew 'T is indeed contested among the Learned Botanosophists whether this Plant was not the same with Laserpitium and the Laser it yields the odoriferous † 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Aristoph in Pluto Act. iv Sc. 3. Benzoin But doubtless had we the true and genuine Silphium for it appears to have been often sophisticated and a spurious sort brought into Italy it would soon recover its pristine Reputation and that it was not celebrated so for nothing extraordinary since besides its Medicinal Vertue it was a wonderful Corroborater of the Stomach a Restorer of lost Appetite and Masculine Vigour c. and that they made use of it almost in every thing they eat But should we now really tell the World that this precious Juice is by many thought to be no other than the † Of which some would have it a courser sort inamoeni odoris as the same Comedian names it in his Equites p. 239. and 240. Edit Basil See likewise this discuss'd together with its Properties m st copiously in Jo. Budaeus a Stapul Comment in Theophrast lib. vi cap. 1. and Bauhin Hist Plant. lib. xxvii cap. 53. Foetid Assa our nicer Sallet-Eaters who yet bestow as odious an Epithet on the vulgar Garlick would cry out upon it as intolerable and perhaps hardly believe it But as Aristophanes has brought it in and sufficiently describ'd it so the Scholiast upon the place puts it out of Controversy And that they made use both of the Leaves Stalk and Extract especially as we now do Garlick and other Hautgouts as nauseous altogether In the mean time Garcius Bontius and others assure us that the Indians at this day universally sauce their Viands with it and the Bramin's who eat no Flesh at all in rich their Sallets by constantly rubbing the Dishes with it Nor are some of our own skilful Cooks Ignorant how to condite and use it with the Applause of those who ignorant of the Secret have admir'd the richness of the Gust it has imparted when it has been substituted instead of all our Cipollati and other seasonings of that Nature And thus have we done with the various Species of all such Esculents as may properly enter the Composition of our Acetaria and cold Sallet And if I have briefly touch'd upon their Natures Degrees and primary Qualities which Intend or Remit as to the Scale of Heat Cold Driness Moisture c. which is to be understood according to the different Texture of their component Particles it has not been without what I thought necessary for the Instruction of the Gatherer and Sallet-Dresser how he ought to choose sort and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together What Care and Circumspection should attend the choice and collection of Sallet Herbs has been partly shew'd I can therefore by no means approve of that extravagant Fancy of some who tell us that a Fool is as fit to be the Gatherer of a Sallet as a Wiser Man Because say they one can hardly choose amiss provided the Plants be green young and tender where-ever they meet with them But sad experience shews how many fatal Mistakes have been committed by those who took the deadly Cicutae Hemlocks Aconits c. for Garden Persley and Parsneps the Myrrhis Sylvestris or Cow-Weed for Choerophilum Chervil Thapsia for Fennel the wild Chondrilla for Succory Dogs-Mercury instead of Spinach Papaver Corniculatum Luteum and horn'd Poppy for Eringo Oenanthe aquatica for the Palustral Apium and a world more whose dire effects have been many times sudden Death and the cause of Mortal Accidents to those who have eaten of them unwittingly But supposing some of those wild and unknown Plants should not prove so deleterious and * Vide Cardanum de usu Cibi unwholsome yet may others of them annoy the Head Brain and Genus Nervosum weaken the Eyes offend the Stomach affect the Liver torment the Bowels and discover their malignity in dangerous and dreadful Symptoms And therefore such Plants as are rather Medicinal than Nourishing and Refreshing are studiously to be rejected So highly necessary it is that what we sometimes find in old Books concerning Edules of other Countries and Climates frequently call'd by the Names of such as are wholsome in ours and among us mislead not the unskilful Gatherer to prevent which we read of divers Popes and Emperors that had sometimes Learned Physicians for their Master-Cooks I cannot therefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr. Ray * Vol. xx Transact Num. 238. who thinks it the Interest of Mankind that all Persons should be caution'd of advent'ring upon unknown Herbs and Plants to their Prejudice Of such I say with our excellent * Cowley 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Hesiod Poet a little chang'd Happy from such conceal'd if still do lie Of Roots and Herbs the unwholsome Luxury The Illustrious and Learned Columna has by observing what † Concerning this of Insects See Mr. Ray's Hist Plant. li. 1. cap. 24. Insects did usually feed on make Conjectures of the Nature of the Plants But I should not so readily adventure upon it on that account as to its wholsomness For tho' indeed one may safely eat of a Peach or Abricot after a Snail has been Taster I question whether it might be so of all other Fruits and Herbs attack'd by other Insects Nor would one conclude the Hyoscyamus harmless because the Cimex feeds upon it as the Learned Dr. Lyster has discover'd Notice should therefore be taken what Eggs of Insects are found adhering to the Leaves of Sallet-Herbs and frequently cleave so firmly to them as not easily to be wash'd off and so not being taken notice of passing for accidental and harmless Spots only may yet produce very ill effects Grillus who according to the Doctrine of Transmigration as Plutarch tells us had in his turn been a Beast discourses how much better he fed and liv'd than when he was turn'd to Man again as knowing then what Plants were best and most proper for him Whilst Men Sarcophagists Flesh-Eaters in all this time were yet to seek And 't is indeed very evident that Cattel and other 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and herbaceous Animals which feed on Plants are directed by their Smell and accordingly make election of their
most Glorious and Useful Undertakings the Unsatiable Coveting to Exhaust all that should or can be said upon every Head If such a one have any thing else to mind or do in the World let me tell him he thinks of Building too late and rarely find we any who care to superstruct upon the Foundation of another and whose Idea's are alike There ought therefore to be as many Hands and Subsidiaries to such a Design and those Masters too as there are distinct Parts of the Whole according to the subsequent Table that those who have the Means and Courage may tho' they do not undertake the Whole finish a Part at least and in time Vnite their Labours into one Intire Compleat and Consummate Work indeed Of One or Two of these I attempted only a Specimen in my SILVA and the KALENDAR Imperfect I say because they are both capable of Great Improvements It is not therefore to be expected Let me use the Words of an Old and Experienc'd Gardiner Cuncta me dicturum Columella de R. R. Lib. 5. Cap. 1. quae vastitas ejus scientiae contineret sed plurima nam illud in unius hominis prudentiam cadere non poterit neque est ulla Disciplina aut Ars quae singulari consummata sit ingenio May it then suffice aliquam partem tradidisse and that I have done my Endeavour Ju●tilis olim Ne Videar vixisse Much more might I add upon this Charming and Fruitful Subject I mean concerning Gardening But this is not a Place to Expatiate deterr'd as I have long since been from so bold an Enterprize as the Fabrick I mentioned I content my self then with an Humble Cottage and a Simple Potagere Appendant to the Calendar which Treating only and that briefly of the Culture of Moderate Gardens Nothing seems to me shou'd be more Welcome and Agreeable than whilst the Product of them is come into more Request and Use amongst us than heretofore beside what we call and distinguish by the Name of Fruit I did annex some particular Directions concerning SALLETS THE PLAN OF A Royal Garden Describing and Shewing the Amplitude and Extent of that Part of Georgicks which belongs to Horticulture In Three Books BOOK I. Chap. I. OF Principles and Elements in general Ch. II. Of the Four vulgarly reputed Elements Fire Air Water Earth Ch. III. Of the Celestial Influences and particularly of the Sun Moon and of the Climates Ch. IV. Of the Four Annual Seasons Ch. V. Of the Natural Mould and Soil of a Garden Ch. VI. Of Composts and Stercoration Repastination Dressing and Stirring the Earth and Mould of a Garden BOOK II. Chap. I. A Garden Deriv'd and Defin'd its Dignity Distinction and Sorts Ch. II. Of a Gardiner how to be qualify'd regarded and rewarded his Habitation Cloathing Diet Under Workmen and Assistants Ch. III. Of the Instruments belonging to a Gardiner their various Vses and Machanical Powers Ch. IV. Of the Terms us'd and affected by Gardiners Ch. V. Of Enclosing Fencing Platting and disposing of the Ground and of Terraces Walks Allies Malls Bowling-Greens c. Ch VI. Of a Seminary Nurseries and of Propagating Trees Plants and Flowers Planting and Transplanting c. Ch. VII Of Knots Parterres Compartiments Borders Banks and Embossments Ch. VIII Of Groves Labyrinths Dedals Cabinets Cradles Close-Walks Galleries Pavilions Portico's Lanterns and other Relievo's of Topiary and Hortulan Architecture Ch. IX Of Fountains Jetto's Cascades Rivulets Piscina's Canals Baths and other Natural and Artificial Water-works Ch. X. Of Rocks Grotts Cryptae Mounts Precipices Ventiducts Conservatories of Ice and Snow and other Hortulan Refreshments Ch. XI Of Statues Busts Obelisks Columns Inscriptions Dials Vasa's Perspectives Paintings and other Ornaments Ch. XII Of Gazon-Theatres Amphitheatres Artificial Echo's Automata and Hydraulic Musick Ch. XIII Of Aviaries Apiaries Vivaries Insects c. Ch. XIV Of Verdures Perennial Greens and Perpetual Springs Ch. XV. Of Orangeries Oporotheca's Hybernacula Stoves and Conservatories of Tender Plants and Fruits and how to order them Ch. XVI Of the Coronary Garden Flowers and Rare Plants how they are to be Raised Governed and Improved and how the Gardiner is to keep his Register Ch. XVII Of the Philosophical Medical Garden Ch. XVIII Of Stupendous and Wonderful Plants Ch. XIX Of the Hort Yard and Potagere and what Fruit-Trees Olitory and Esculent Plants may be admitted into a Garden of Pleasure Ch. XX. Of Sallets Ch. XXI Of a Vineyard and Directions concerning the making of Wine and other Vinous Liquors and of Teas Ch. XXII Of Watering Pruning Plashing Pallisading Nailing Clipping Mowing Rowling Weeding Cleansing c. Ch. XXIII Of the Enemies and Infirmities to which Gardens are obnoxious together with the Remedies Ch. XXIV Of the Gardiner's Almanack or Kalendarium Hortense directing what he is to do Monthly and what Fruits and Flowers are in prime BOOK III. Ch. I. Of Conserving Properating Retarding Multiplying Transmuting and Altering the Species Forms and reputed Substantial Qualities of Plants Fruits and Flowers Ch. II. Of the Hortulan Elaboratory and of distilling and extracting of Waters Spirits Essences Salts Colours Resuscitation of Plants with other rare Experiments and an Account of their Virtues Ch. III. Of Composing the Hortus Hyemalis and making Books of Natural Arid Plants and Flowers with several Ways of Preserving them in their Beauty Ch. IV. Of Painting of Flowers Flowers enamell'd Silk Callico's Paper Wax Guns Pasts Horns Glass Shells Feathers Moss Pietra Comessa Inlayings Embroyderies Carvings and other Artificial Representations of them Ch. V. Of Crowns Chaplets Garlands Festoons Encarpa Flower-Pots Nosegays Poesies Deckings and other Flowery Pomps Ch. VI. Of Hortulan Laws and Privileges Ch. VII Of the Hortulan Study and of a Library Authors and Books assistant to it Ch. VIII Of Hortulan Entertainments Natural Divine Moral and Political with divers Historical Passages and Solemnities to shew the Riches Beauty Wonder Plenty Delight and Universal Use of Gardens Ch. IX Of Garden Burial Ch. X. Of Paradise and of the most Famous Gardens in the World Ancient and Modern Ch. XI The Description of a Villa Ch. XII The Corollary and Conclusion Laudato ingentia rura Exiguum colito ACETARIA SALLETS in general consist of certain Esculent Plants and Herbs improv'd by Culture Industry and Art of the Gard'ner Or as others say they are a Composition of Edule Plants and Roots of several kinds to be eaten Raw or Green Blanch'd or Candied simple and per se or intermingl'd with others according to the Season The Boil'd Bak'd Pickl'd or otherwise disguis'd variously accommodated by the skilful Cooks to render them grateful to the more feminine Palat or Herbs rather for the Pot c. challenge not the name of Sallet so properly here tho' sometimes mention'd And therefore Those who Criticize not so nicely upon the Word seem to distinguish the * Olera à frigidis distinct See Spartianus in Pescennio Salmas in Jul. Capitolin Olera which were never eaten Raw from Acetaria which were
49 Augustus 32 Autumn 110. 118. 130 B. Barlaeus's Description Poetic of a Sallet Collation 175 Basil 10 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 79 Baulm 10 Beere 23 Beet 11. 122 Benzoin 79 Bile 55 Blite 12 Blood to purifie 13. 29 32. Eating it prohibited 155. 156. 158 159 160 162 c. Boletus 40 Books of Botany 84 to be read with caution where they write of Edule Plants ib. Borrage 13 Bowels 89 Brain 10. 19. 25. 60. 69. 88 Bramins 150 Brandy and Exotic Liquors pernicious 144 Bread and Sallet sufficient for Life 2. 3. 184 Made of Turnips 71 Breast 28 Broccoli 16 Brook lime 13 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 41 Broth 29. 130 Brute Animals much healthier than Men why 140 Buds 14 Buglos 13 Bulho Castanum 23 Buphthalmum 22 Burnet 54 Butter 98 C. Cabbage 15 Capsicum Indicum 52 53 Cardialgia 52 Carduus Sativus 69. 7 Cardon Spanish 10 Carnivorous Animals 138 Carrots 17 Cartel relish of their Pasture and Food 134. Vide Fowl Cauly flower 16 Cepae 47. 64 Cephalics 46. 61 Chaeriphyllum 18 Champignons 40. Vide Mushroms Chastity 18 Children chuse to eat Fruit before other Meat 146 Christians abstaining from eating Flesh 151 161 Choler 31 Church Catholics future Glory predicted 179 Cibarium 97 Cicuta 74. 83 Cinara 7 Clary 18 Claudius Caesar 41 Claver 19 Cleansing 68 Climate 124 Cochlearia 64. v. Scurvy-Grass Cooks 119. Physicians to Emperors and Popes 84. v. Heroes Collation of Sallet Extemporary 114 Cold 24 Cooling 50 Complexion 130 Composing and Composer of Sallets 110. 120 Compotation 116 Concession to eat Flesh since which Mens Lives shortned 151 Concoction 27. 46. 52. 89. 139 Condiments 99. vide Sauce Conscience 153 Consent v. Harmony Constitution of Body 89 102. 125 126 127 130 Consuls and Great Persons supt in their Garden 188 Contemplative Persons 161 Convictus facilis 182 Cordials 10. 13. 35. 66. 69. 105 Coriander 76 Corrago 14 Correctives 127 Corn what Ground most proper for it 132 Corn Sallet 19 Corroboratives 79 Corpulency 127 Cowslips 19 Cresses 19 Crithmum 61 Crudities 39. 51 Cruelty in butchering Animals for Food 151 153 Cucumber 20. 37. 77 Culture its Effects 65. 131 Custom 126. 146. 153 156. Of Sallet Herbs how great a Revenue to Rome 186 D. Daffadil 73 Daisie 22 Dandelion 23 Dapes Inemptae 180 Dauci 17 Decay in Nature none 165 Decoction 29. 130 Deobstructions 7. 28 Deorum filii 39 Distinction of Meats abrogated 145. 153 Detersives 13 Dioscoride 's Opinion of Mallows and Radish 145. 153 Dishes for Sallets 106. 121 Dissimilar Parts of Animals require Variety of Food 138 139 Diuretics 29. 46. 50. 54. 66 Dock 23 Dogs-Mercury 83 Domitian Emp. 115 Draco herba 69 Dressing of Sallets vide Sallet Dry Plants 25. 51. 52. 54. 60. 65. 70. 126 Dung 132. Sallets rais'd on it undigested 132 133 E. Earth whether much alter'd since the Flood 125. about great Cities produces rank and unwholsome Sallets 131 132 133 Earth-Nuts 23 Eggs 105. 122 Elder 24 Emollients 23 Endive 24 Epicurism 153 Eremit's vide Monks Eruca 60 Eructation 58 Eruditae gulae 119 Escalons 48 Eternity v. Patriarchs Eupeptics 89 Euphrosyne 14 Excess 112 Exhilarate 10. 13. 18. 55 Exotic Drinks and Sauces dangerous 138 139. 152 Experience 128 Eyes 10. 25. 47. 54. 60. 76. 112. v. Sight F. Fabrorum prandia 12 Fainting 72 Families enobl'd by names of Sallet Plants 31. 181 Farcings 54 Fascicule 109 Fevers 31. 125 Felicity of the Hortulan Life 191 Fennel 25 Flatulents 51 Flesh none eaten during 2000 years Flesh eaters not so ingenious as t eaters unapt for Study and Business shortens Life how all Flesh is Grass 137. 145. 149. 152. 164. 186 187. Flowers 26 Foliatorum ordo 165 Fowl relish of their Food 134 Food No Necessity of different Food 140. The simplest best 142. Man's original Food 145 Fools unfit to gather Sallets contrary to the Italian Proverb 94 Friers vide Monks Frigidae Mensae 126 Frugality of the ancient Romans c. 32. 180. 185 Fruit 116. not reckon'd among Sallets 117. 125. not degenerated since the Flood where Industry is us'd 162. 163 Fugaces fructus 114 Fungus 39. v. Mushroms Fungus reticularis 42 Furniture and Ingredients of Sallets 94 G. Galen Lover of Lettuce 32. 36 Gardiner's happy Life 176. Entertain Heroes and great Persons 179 Garlick 27. 80 Garnishing 12. 123 Gatherers of Sallets should be skilful Herbarists 109 110 Gemmae 14 v. Buds Gerkems 22. v. Cucumber Ginny-Pepper 121 122 Goats beard 18 Golden Age 154. 156. 190 Gordian Emp. 126 Gramen Amygdalosum 74 Grand Sallet 64 Grass 128 Grillus 86 Gymnosophists 150 H. Habits difficult to overcome applied to Flesh-Eaters 152 Haeredium of old 191 Halimus 56 Harmony in mixing Sallet Ingredients as Notes in Musick 92 Haugoût 119 Head 79. 83. v. 61. 112. Cephalicks Heart 62. 65. v. Cordials Heliotrop 75 Hemlock 74. 83 Herbaceous Animals know by Instinct what Herbs are proper for them better than Men 87. and excel them in most of the Senses ib. Herbals v. Books Herbs crude whether wholsome 123. 128 152. What proper for Sallets 108. Their Qualities and Vertues to be examined 127. Herby Diet most Natural 152 Heroes of old skill'd in Cookery 119 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 155 Hippocrates condemns Radish 75. That Men need only Vegetables 164 Hipposelinum 7 Holyhoc 36 Hony 22. 102 Hops 28 Horarii fructus 114 Horminum 18 19 Horses not so diseased as Men 140. Recompens'd by some Masters for long Service 141 Horse-Radish 58. 56. 121 122 Hortulan Provision most plentiful of any advantageous universal natural c. 170 171. 181. 183. 188 Hot Plants 13. 25. 28. 126 Hot Beds how unwholsome for Salleting 132 133 134 House-wife had Charge of the Kitchin Garden 185 Humours 88. 126 Hypochondria 13. 29 62 Hysop 29 I. Jack-by-the-Hedge 29 Ilander 90. obnoxious to the Scorbute ib. Indigestion 58 Ingredients 6. 108. v. Furniture Insects 43. 85 Intuba Sativa 24 John the Baptist 165 Israelites Love of Onions 49 Justin Martyr concerning the eating of Blood 158 K. Knife for cutting Sallets 105 Kitchen Garden 185 v. Potagere L. Lapathum 37 Laserpitium 79 Latet anguis in herba 179 Laws 180 Laxatives 11. 15. 19. 36. 37. 89 Leeks 30 Legumena 113 Lettuce 30. 97. 115. 116 120. 127. 13● Limon 35. 50. Liver 20. 83. 55. 69 Longaevity 126. 144. 145 Lotophagi 165 Lungs 30 Lupulus 28 Luxury 125. 138. 149. 159. 182 Lysimachia Seliquosa glabra 76 Lyster Dr. 86. 133 M. Macarons 75 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of the Patriarchs 149 Majoran 29 Mallows 35 Malvae folium sanctissimum ib. Man before the Fall knew the Vertues of Plants 128. Unbecoming his Dignity to butcher the innocent Animal for Food 145. Not by Nature carnivorous 172. Not lapsed so soon as generally thought 147 148 Marygold 29 Masculine Vigour 79 Materia medica 100 Materials for Sallets v. Furniture Maximinus an egregious Glutton Sallet-hater 188 Meats commend not to God 153 Medals of Battus with Silphium on the Reverse 78