diuertissement here to throw a halfpenny loaf into the moat among the Carps and to see how they will mumble and iumble it to and fro how others will puff and snuff and take it ill not to haue part of it and how in fine they will plainly fall to blowes and fight for it You would wonder how such hoat passions should be found in cold water but euery thing that liues will fight for that which makes it liue its Vittails Hauing seen Fontainbelleau I saw on extraordinary thing in the rest of the way to Lyons but an old Inscription in letters of gold vpon a woodden Fabrick a mile before I came to Montargis importing that the English being encamped here had been forced to rayse their Seige before Montargis by reason of great raynes and suddain inundations Some of the French historians will haue it that it was the Count de Dunois that forced the English to rayse the Seige here but I had rather beleeue publick inscriptions then priuate flattery and it was more honourable for the English to be ouercome by God then by men From hence I passed through Montargis a neat pleasant towne in the great Hall of whose Castle is painted the history of the dog that fought a Duel with the Murderer of his Master and it is not strange that the Dog that had put on humanity ouercame him that had put it of to espouse the deuouring humour of a Dog This is the chief towne of the Gastinois From hence I went to Briare where I saw the cut channel that ioynes Loire and Sene together in trafick whose bedds oftherwise stand wide from one another in situation From thence to Cosne la Charité Pougues famous for wholesome stincking waters Neuers famous for glasse houses Moulins famous for kniues and Cizars la Palisse where they make excellent winter bootes Roanne where Loire beginns to be nauigable and so ouer Terrara hills to Lyons Lyons is one of the greatest and richest townes in France It stands vpon the riuers Saone and Rhosne Araris and Rhodanus and intercepting all the merchandize of Burgondy Germany and Italy It licks its fingers notably and thriues by it It expresseth this in its looks for here you haue hansome people noble houses great jollity frequent balls and much brauery all markes of a good towne and could it but intercept either the Parlament of Aix or Grenoble it would be as noble as its name or as its Catedral Chapter whose Deane and Prebends are all counts and noble of four descents they got the title of counts thus A great contest arriseing between the Chapter of S. Iohns Church and the Count de Forests called Guigo for some rights ouer the towne of Lyons which they both pretended to at last anno 1166. they came to an agreement vpon this condition that the Count should leaue to the Chapter his County of Forests which he did and so euer since the Decane and Prebends haue been called Counts of S. Iohn The cheif things to be seen in Lyons are these 1. The great Church or Cathedral called Iohns Church It s the Seat of an Archbishop who is Primat of Gaule S. Irenaeus was a great ornament of this Church as was also Eucherius Vpon solemne dayes the Canons officiate in Miters like Bishops They sing here all the office by heart and without booke as also without pricksong musick organs or other instrumens vseing onely the ancient plainsong The High Altar is like those of Italy that is open on all sides with a Crucifixe and two little candlestiks vpon it I neuer saw any hangings in this Church not vpon the greatest dayes but Venerable old walls The clock here is much cryed vp for a rare peice 2. The stately new Towne house of pure white freestone able to matche that of Amsterdam and indeed they seemed to me to be twinns for I saw them both in the same yeare as they were in building The curious stair-case and Hall aboue are the things most worthy taking notice of the owne for its contriuanc the other for its painting 3. The Jesuits Colledge and fair Library 4. The Carthusians Monastery vpon a high Hill 5. The Minimes Sachristy well painted 6. The rests of the old Aqueduct vpon the Hill 7. The Mail and the sweet place of Belle Cour. 8. The Heart of saint Francis de Sales in the Church of the Visitation in Belle Cour. 9. The Charité where all the poore are kept at worke with admirable oeconomy It looks like a little towne haueing in it nine courts all built up with lodgeings for the poore who are about fifteen hundred and diuided into seueral Classes with their seueral Refectories and Chappels 10. The Head of S. Bonauenture in the Cordeliers Church 11. The Castle of Pierre Ancise built vpon a rock 12. Nostre Dame de Fouruier standing vpon a high hill from whence you haue a perfect view of Lyons 13. Lastly the rare Cabinet of Monsieur Seruier a most ingenious gentleman where I saw most rare experiments in Mathematiks and Mechanicks all made by his owne hand as the sympatheticall balls one springing vp at the approach of the other held vp a pretty distance off the demonstration of a quick way how to passe an army ouer a riuer with one boat and a woodden bridge easily to be foulded vp vpon one cart the mouse dyall where a little thing like a mouse by her insensible motion markes the houres of the day The Lizard Dyal is much like the former onely the mouse moues vpon a plain frame of wood which hath the houres marked on it and the Lizard creeps vpward from houre to houre The night dyall shewing by a lighted lamp set behinde it the houres of the night which are painted in colours vpon oyled Paper and turne about as the time goes The Tortoise dyall where a peice of cork cut like a Tortoise being put into a puter dish of water which hath the twelue houres of the day marked upon its brims goeth vp and downe the water a while seeking out the houre of the day that is then and there fixeing it self without stirring The Rare engine teaching how to throw Grenados into beseiged townes and into any precise place without fayling The way how to set vp a watch-tower with a man in it to looke into a towne from without and see how they are drawne vp within the towne a way how to change dineing Roomes three or four times with their tables the Seats and ghests being by the turning of a wheele transported sitting out of one Roome into another and so into three or four more Roomes variously hung with tables couered The Desk dyall which throwes vp a little ball of yuory without rest and thereby marketh the houre of the day and sheweth what a clock it is the Dyall of the Planets representing the dayes of the week by seueral figures in iuory of the planets the
countryes with other rich stones all aboue marble and all so neatly polished and shining that the Art here exceeds the materials This Chappel is round and round about are to by fixed within the walls as high as a man can reach the Tombes of all the Great Dukes of Florence in a most gallant manner and of most exquisit polished stones with a great cushen of some richer stone and a Ducal crowne of pretious stones reposeing vpon that cushen Ouer these Tombes the Statues of all the Great â—ukes at full length and in their Ducal habits all of brasse guilt are to be placed in Niches round about the Chappel The roof is to Vaulted all ouer with an ouercrusting of Lapis Lazuli a blew pretious stone with vaines of gold in it which will make it looke like heauen it self Between each tombe are inlayd in the walls the armes or Scutchions of the seueral townes of the Great Dukes dominions all blazoned according to their seueral colours in herauldry by seueral pretious stones which compose them and these are not made in little but are fair great Scutchions made purposely of a larg sise for to fill vp the voyd places between the Tombes The townes are these Florence Siena Pisa Liuorno Volterra Arezzo Pistoia Cortona Monte Pulciano c. which contributed I suppose something each of them to this costly Fabrick in fine this Chappel is so rich within with its owne shining bare walls that it scorns all hangings painting guilding mosaick work and such like helpers off of bare walls because it can find nothing richer and hansomer then its owne pretious walls It s now aboue threescore years since it was begun and there are ordinarily threescore men at work dayly here and yet ther 's onely the Tombe of Ferdinand the Second perfectly finished The very Cushen which lyeth vpon his Tombe cost threescore thousand crownes by which you may gesse at the rest indeed these stately Tombes make almost death it self looke louely and dead mens ashes grow proud againe As for the Altar and Tabernacle of this Chappel I will speak of them by and by when I describe the Gallery of the Great Duke where they are kept till the Chappel be finished 2. The Church of S. Laurence which belongs to this Chappel or rather to which this chappel belongs is a very hansom church designed by Brunellischi himself The things that grace this church are the neat double row of round pillars which hold vp the roof of this Fabrick The picture ouer the Quire painted in the roof representing the genaral judgement It s a bold peece and of Pontorno The two Brazen pulpits wrought into hystorys by rare Donatello The curious designed picture of S. Anne and our Blessed Lady in chiaro e oscuro by Fra Bartolomeo commonly called Del Frate is so wel a designed peece that a Duke of Mantua haueing seen it offered to buy it at any rate but was refused The new Sacristy made to serue the fine Chappel described aboue deserues to be carefully visited because of the bodyes of the Princes of the Family of Medices which are depositated here till the Chappel mentioned aboue be finished In this new Sacristy also are seen the four statues made by Michael Angelo representing The Day the Night Aurora and the Euening the four parts which compose Time by which all men are brought to their Graues That which represents Night is a rare statue and hugely cryed vp by all Sculptors and Virtuosi See also in the Wall of the old Sacristy the neat Tombe of Iohn and Peter Medices sonns of Cosmus surnamed Pater Patriae It s the worke of Andrea Varochio In the midst of this Church before the High Altar lyes buryed Cosmus Pater Patriae the Rayser of the Medicean family In the Cloister ioyning to this Church is erected the Statue of Paulus Iouius the Historian and neare to this statue you mount vp a pair of stairs to the rare Library of Manuscripts called Bibliotheca Laurentiana the Catalogue of whose bookes is printed at Amsterdame an 1622 in octauo 3. The Gallery of the old Pallace This is that Gallery so famous and so frequently Visited by all Strangers At your entrance into this Gallery you see a Vast long roome made like an L on the left hand of this Gallery there runns a perpetual glasse window on the other side are set a row of pictures in great of those of the Medicean Family vnder the windowes and also vnder the sayd Pictures stand a row of curious Marble statues ancient ones all and of prime hands Ouer the sayd windowes and Pictures runns a close row of lesse Pictures representing to the life the most famous men of later times for learning and Armes the soldiers being on the right hand and the schollers on the left The statues aforesayd are well nigh a hundred in all but all rare ones Some whereof I yet remember and they are these That of Leda of Diana of Bacchus of Hercules of the Gladiator standing on his gard of Scipio Africanus in brasse shewing the ancient habit and dresse of the old Romans farre different from our modes that of a little yong youth in brasse with his sword in his hand that of a little boy sleeping vpon a touchstone The head of Cicero in marble that of Seneca the Head of Michael Angelo Bonarota in brasse of his owne hand makeing in fine the head of Brutus one of Caesars murderers It was begun in marble by Michael Angelo but informedly and so left by him If you will know the reason why he finished it not read the distick written in brasse vnder this head by the sayd sculptor himself thus M. Dum Bruti effigiem Sculptor A. de marmore ducit B. In mentem sceleris Venit F. abstinuit The four corner letters signifying that Michael Angelus Bonarota Fecit Among the pictures I tooke particular notice of these Souldiers of Hannibal that frighted Rome of Scipio that tooke Carthage and vanquished Hannibal of Pyrrhus that made the Romans glad to make peace with him of Scanderbeg that made the Great Turk afrayd to fight with him of Venerius that helpt to winn the battle of Lepento of Alexander Farnese that neuer lost battle of Cortesius that found out new countryes of Magellanus that found out new Seas of Andrea D'Oria who beat the French by Sea of Gaston de Foix who had beat the Spaniards by land if he had but knowne how to vse his Victory of the Duke of Alua who onely lamented deying that he had neuer fought a pitchd battle with the Turks of Anne de Montmorency who dyeing was glad to dye in a pitchd batle against the Hugonots of Eccelino the Paduan Tyrant of whom no man can Speak any good of Castrucio of whom no man can speake any ill with a world of other braue Heros with whose true lookes I was very glad to be acquainted Among the pictures of the learned men
passe their time more cheerfully But for the most part they liue alone condemned to the melancholy horror of their crimes and the solitude of seauen whole weeks in Lent when vpon payne of rigorous punishments and imprisonment they dare not admitt of any customers The like rigour is vsed against them also in Aduent that dureing the space of those holy times these vnholy women may haue time to think of themselues and admit of Gods holy inspirations for their amendment Is it not a punishment to them to be obliged to enter their names publickly in the list of whores For if Tacitus obserues that the old Romans satis paenarum aduersum impudicas in ipsa professione flagitij apud Aediles credebant thought it punishment enough against vnchast women in their very profesing themselues to be such before the Aedils I cannot but think it a great punishment to Christian whores who are at least as sensible as the heathens of the horrible disgrace of haueing their name listed to be thus defamed for euer by remaining whores vpon Record Is it not a punishing of them to depriue them all their life time as long as they liue whores of the holy Sacraments and after their death of Christian Burial Is it not a punishment and a deterring of them from vice to throw their bodyes when they dye into an obscure place out of the walls of the towne as if they deserued no other Burial place then that of Asses Is it not in fine a punishment to them not to be allowed to make any Will or Testament but to leaue all their goods confiscated either to the Hospitals of poore honest girles or to the maintaining of those gards that are to watch ouer their deportments If these punishments both of body soul and honour be inflicted vpon whores in Rome as they are do not vrge any more that whores are not punished in Rome nor discountenanced But why doth not the Pope punish them home and roote them quite out by banishment This hath been attempted by diuers Popes and namely by Pius Quintus of happy memory as Thuanus in his history writes but seeing greater inconueniences and greater sinns arose vpon it prudence which is the salt that must season all moral actions thought it not fit to carry on that rigour nor yet allow of fornication neither So that all the permission of whores in Rome that can colourably be imagined is onely a not punishing of them in all rigour and euen that too for a good end and to hinder greater euils But the Pope being both a Temporal and an Ecclesiastical Superiour is bound in my mind to break through all respects and settle innocency in the world It s zealously spoken and I wish he could do it but difficilem rem optas generis humani innocentiam he wisheth a hard thing who wisheth for the innocency of mankinde sayth a wiseman And if Princes sometimes do not punish factious subiects when they see that the punishing of them would pull the whole State in peeces ouer their heads and put the whole kingdome in danger as it did in Henry the Thirds time in France vpon his causeing of the Duke of Guise to be killed in Blois If Generals of armyes take no notice of some treacherous commander who is vniuersally beloued by the soldiers least the punishing of one man loose them the affection of the whole army as we saw latey in the case of Lubemirsky how truely guilty I know not and some yeares ago I remember in the case of Walstein whose punishment had almost vndone the Emperor why may not the Pope without approueing the sinn of whores prudently waue the punishing of it with all rigour when he sees that such rigour would cause greater disorders in that hot nation and in that citie where all nations seeme to club vices as well as vertues Hence learned Abulensis a great Diuine sayth Licet leges humanae aliqua mala permittant non puniendo nullum tamen malum permittunt statuendo But the Pope should not gouerne according either to human policy or human Lawes and Examples You pretend zeale but you would do well to take her sister Prudence with her as our Sauiour did who when he heard his disciples desireing him to let them call downe fire from heauen vpon the criminal Samaritans answered them calmely you know not of what spirit you are Nay doth not God himself who being able to punish all criminal persons and roote them quite out of the world suffer both his Sun to rise and shine vpon sinners and sinners to offend in this sunshine and often by it Hence S. Thomas sayth much to my purpose Humanum regimen deriuatur a diuino regimine ipsum debet imitari Deus autem quamuis sit omnipotens ac summâ— bonus permittit tamen aliqua mala fieri in vniuerso quae prohibere posset ne iis sublatis maiora bona tollerentur vel maiora mala sequerentur Humane gouerment is deriued from diuine gouerment and ought to imitate it Now God allthough he be allmighty and highly good yet he permits euils to be done in the world which he could hinder least by taking away them greater goods should be taken away or greater euils should follow But I wade too farre into this puddle yet remember who thrust me into it and you l pardon me Behinde the Church and Conuent of the foresayd Penitents stands the Church of San Syluestro in Capite so called from the picture of our Sauiours head and face which our Sauiour himself made by miracle and sent to Abagarus King of Edessa as you may read at length in Baronius and in Bosius in his rare booke called Roma Sotterranea Now this picture is kept here in this monastery and with great probability seing it was here that diuers Greek Monks driuen out of their country by Constantin Copronimus for the defence of sacred Jmages were entertained by the Pope Paul the First and it s very likely that these good men brought with them this famous picture of our Sauiour to saue it from the fury of the Iconoclasts Returning from hence into the Corso againe I went to see there the Colonna d'Antonino the Great Pillar of Antoninus the Emperor It s built iust like that of Traian described aboue It was built by Marcus Aurelius Antoninus the Emperor in honour of his Father Antoninus Pius It s all of white marble engrauen without with a basso rilieuo from top to bottom containing the memorable actions of Marcus Aurilius It s 175 foot high hath in it 206 stairs which lead vp to the top of it and 56 little windows giuing light to those stairs and yet this high Pillar was made of 28 stones of marble The caruing that is vpon it contains the braue actions of Marcus Aurelius ouer che Armenians Parthians Germans Wandals and Sarmats or Polonians but age hath so defaced these
will say I change stile often and sometimes ruâ—n smoothly sometimes joltingly Truâ—â—raueled not allwayes vpon smooth ground and paceing horses Swisserlande and Sauoye are much different from Campania and Lombardy and its one thing to describe a Pleasant garden an other thing to describe a Venerable Cathedrall and if in the one and the other we haue seueral lookes much more ought we to haue seueral words in describing them Others will say I affect a world of exotick words not yet naturalized in England No I affect them not I cannot auoyd them For who can speak of Statues but he must speak of Niches or of Churches Wrought Tombes or inlayd Tables but hee must speak of Coupolas of bassi rilieui and of pietre commesse If any man vnderstand them not it s his fault not mine Others will say I hunt too much after Ceremonies and Church antiquityes No I onely meet them And as a man cannot speak of Hercules but he must speak of clubbs of combats of Labours and victories so I cannot speak of Rome the Christian but I must speake of Relicks Ceremonies and Religion Yet I beleeue I giue my Reader a full drought toâ— of prophane antiquityes Mascarades Shews dressings and passetimes Others in fine will say that I do but a thing done allready seeing two others haue written of this subiect in English Well if others haue written vpon this subiect why may not I They did the best they could I beleeue but they drew not vp the ladder after them The one writes much of Italy and says little the other writes little and leaueth out much which I impute to the ones writing out of old Geographers long after he had been there and to the others short stay in Italy when he was there And if these ingenious gentlemen haue painted out Italy in busto onely and profile why may not I paint her out at full face and at her full length If they like ancient Statuaryes haue represented Italy vnto vs like a naked statue I haue set her out in all her best Attire and Iewels And thus much for my owne sake For my countryes sake To read to my countrymen two profitable Lessons The first of the Profit of traueling The second of Traueling with profit 1. For the first to wit the Profit of Traueling its certain that if this world be a great booke as S. Augustin calls it none studdy this great Booke so much as the Traueler They that neuer stirr from home read onely one page of this booke and like the dull follow in Pliny who could neuer learne to count further then fiue they dwell allwayes vpon one lesson They are like an acquaintance of mine who had alwayes a booke indeed lyeing open upon a deske but it was obserued that it lay allwayes open at one and the same place and by long custome could lye open no where else He then that will know much out of this great booke the world must read much in it and as Vlysses is setforth by Homer as the wisest of all the Grecians because he had traueled much and had seen multorum hominum mores Vrbes the Cittyes and customes of many men so his sonn Telemachus is held for a very shallow witted man and Homer giues the reason because his mother Penelope instead of sending him abroad to see forrain countryes had allwayes kept him at home and so made him a meere Onocephalus and a homeling Mammacuth So true is the saying of Seneca that Imperitum est animal homo sine magna experientia rerum si circumscribatur Natalis soli sui fine 2 Traueling preserues my yong nobleman from surfeiting of his parents and weanes him from the dangerous fondness of his mother It teacheth him wholesome hardship to lye in beds that are none of his acquaintance to speak to men he neuer saw before to trauel in the morning before day and in the euening after day to endure any horse and weather as well as any meat and drink Whereas my country gentleman that neuer traueled can scarce go to London without makeing his Will at least without wetting his handkercher And what generous mother will not say to her sonn with that ancient Malo tibi malè esse quà m molliter I had rather thou shouldst be sick then soft Indeed the coral-tree is neither hard nor red till taken out of the Sea its natiue home And I haue read that many of the old Romans put out their children to be nurced abroad by Lacedemonian nurces till they were three yeares old then they put them to their Vncles till seauen or tenn then they sent them into Toscany to be instructed in Religion and at last into Greece to studdy Philosophy 3. Traueling takes my yong nobleman four notches lower in his self-conceit and pride For wheras the country Lord that neuer saw any body but his Fathers tennants and M. Parson and neuer read any thing but Iohn Stow and Speed thinks the Lands-end to be the Worlds-end and that all solid greatness next vnto a great Pasty consists in a great Fire and a great estate Wheras my traueling yong Lord who hath seen so many greater men and Estats then his owne comes home farre more modest and ciuil to his inferiours and farre lesse pufft vp with the empty conceit of his owne greatness Indeed nothing cured Alcibiades his pride so much as to see in a Map shewd him for the nonce by Socrates that his house and lands of which he was so prowd either appeared there not at all or onely a little spot or dab and nemo in pusillo magnus 4. Traueling takes off in some sort that aboriginal curse which was layd vpon mankind euen allmost at the beginning of the world I meane the confusion of tongues which is such a curse indeed that it makes men who are of one kind and made to be sociable so strangely to fly one an other that as great S. Austin sayth A man had rather be with his dog then with a man whose language he vnderstands not Nay this diuersity of language makes the wisest man passe for a foole in a strange country and the best man for an excommunicated person whose conuersation all men auoyd Now traueling takes off this curse and this moral excommunication by making vs learne many languages and conuerse freely with people of other countryes 5. Traueling makes vs acquainted with a world of our kinred we neuer saw before For seing we are all comne from one man at first and consequently all akinn to one another it s but a reasonable thing that a man should once at least in his life time make a journey into forrain countries to see his Relations and visit this kinred haueing allwayes this saying of young Joseph in his mouth quaero fratres meos 6. Traueling enables a man much for his countryes seruice It makes the merchant rich by shewing him what abounds wantes in other countryes that so he
Santo stands the Statue of the Veronica vnder the peece of the Holy Crosse the statue of S. Helen Vnder the top of the lance the Statue of Longinus vnder the Head of S. Andrew The statue of S. Andrew These statues are of Colossean greatness and made by masters as great as themselues In the midst of the Crosse of this Church and perpendiculary vnder the very Cupola stands the High Altar of this Church This Altar may well be called the High Altar Altare quasi alta Ara or the Altare mains being the noblest Altar in the world both for matter and forme The Altar it self stands ouer the Tombe S. Peter half of whose body together with half of S. Pauls lyes buryed here and the other half of their bodyes in S. Pauls Church Ouer this Altar four stately pillars of brasse beare vp a Canopie of the same mettal wrought about the edge like a Canopie indeed with Valances and a guilt fringe yet all of brasse Ouer the corners of this Canopie stand four great Angels of brasse guilt and in the midst of it is mounted high a round ball of brasse guilt and a faire Crosse vpon it of the same mettal These four pillars are as great in compase I speak by experience hauing taken the measure of them vpon their model as three ordinary men are thick Their forme is is serpentine wreathed about with vinetrees and leaues but all of brasse as also adorned with little Angels of brasse clambering vp those leaues and branches and with Bees here and there also relating to Pope Vrbans armes who made them These pillars are fifty foot high from the ground Euery on of them weigheth fiue and twenty thousand pound weight and all of them together make this Altar The Altar antonomastically as this Church is The Church of the world So that if the Climax be true as â—rue it is that Churches are for Altars Altars for Priests Priests for God I know no Religion which payeth such honorable Tributs of worship to God as the Roman Catholik religion doth which hath the noblest Church the noblest Altar the noblest Priest the noblest Sacrifice and all this to the noblest God Deus Deorum Dominus Hence the Pope may say with Salomon Domus quam aedificare cupio magna est magnus est enim Dominus noster super omnes Deos. Behind this Altar not in respect of him that comes into the Church by the great dore but in respect of him that stands at the Altar stands the Confession of S. Peter so called because that in the primitiue times the place where the bodyes of Saints and Martyrs where kept was called Confessio and in the Greek Church Martyrium For in ancient writers the word Confessor was taken often for a martyr who had confessed Christ so farre as euen to dye for him so that martyrs were sometimes called Confessors and Confessors Martyrs though they did not actually dye in tormens as you may see plainly in the Anotations of learned Pamelius vpon Tertullians booke ad Martyres Now this place because it conserues the body at least half of the body of S. Peter is called the Confession of Peter As for this Confession it s made like a hollow caue open aboue and rayled about with low rayles so that the people kneeling may looke downe to the iron dore and grate behinde which the Tombe of S. Peter stands vnder the Altar for these rayles fetch in a demi-circle from one corner of the Altar to the other There are also a double pair of open stairs of some twelue steps a peece for those to descend by who officiate and there are two little half dores which let them in to those stairs And I conceiue at the bottom of these little dores the Limina Apostolorum to bee For though I know its generally held that to visit the Limina Apostolorum which Bishops by the Canon law are obliged vnto is to visit S. Peters Church and that diuers learned Authors think the Limina Apostolorum to be the very steps of the entrance of the great dore of the Church yet I am of opinion that these little half dores and the steps about the Altar are most properly the Limina Apostolorum because I found these very words written in golden letters in the bottom of the like little dores which stand about the High Altar in S. Pauls Church where the other half of the bodyes of S. Peter and S. Paul are intombed Round about this Church stand side Chappels some six and twenty in all called ancienly Cubicula and those whom we call Chaplains were anciently called Cubicularii hence the title of Cubicularius S. Petri. Now these Chappels haue for the most part some remarkable thing in them In one of them is alwayes reserued the B. Sacrament for the dayly vse of Pilgrims that desire to communicate in S. Peters Church and other deuout people In that of S. Gregory Nazianzen is the body of that Saint translated hither out of the Church of the Nunns of Campo Marzo In the Chappel of the Canons reposeth the body of S. Chrysostome In the Chappel called the Clementina reposeth the body of S. Gregory the great who being Pope of Rome and moued by Godly instinction as Iohn Stow sayth sent Augustin Iustus Melitus and other Monks liuing in the feare of God to conuert the Angles or English to the faith of Christ and therfore I tooke particular notice often of his tombe as being as Venerable Bede calls him our Apostle In a Chappel at the very further end of the Church is set vp the Chair of S. Peter held vp by four Doctors of the Church all cast in brasse in a stately posture This Chair is of wood but much spent with old age and therfore Pope Alexander the VII caused it to be set vp here and enchased curiously to preserue it I once saw it neere at hand being exposed to publick view in the middle of the Church vpon the Feast day of S. Peters Chair in Rome In an other Chappel is the Crucifix made three hundred yeares ago by rare Pietro Caualino In an other Chappel you see cut in white marble the history of S. Leo's meeting Attila out of Rome and his deturning him from comeing any nearer to the City As for the Relicks and bodies of Saints which are in this Church besides those mentioned already there are the bodyes of SS Simon and Iude of S. Petronilla of SS Processus and Martinianus of ten first Popes after S. Peter with a world of other precious Relicks Kept in the Sacristy As for the Tombes which are in this Church aboue ground they are these That of Sixtus IV. of Paulus III of Vrban the VIII of Leo the XI of Innocent the VIII of Gregory the XIII of Innocent the X and lastly that of the Countesse Matilde the onely secular person that I finde to haue a
haue been twenty three in all haue hartened and aduanced this work that the prime Architects of the world Sangalla Bramante Baldassere Buonarota Giacomo della Porta Giouani Fontana Carlo Maderno and now Caualiero Bernino haue brought it on to this perfection that the whole Church it self is nothing but the Quintessence of wit and wealth strained into a religious designe of making a hansome house to God and of fulfilling the diuine oracle which promised that magna erit gloria domus istius nouissimae plusquam primae Going at last out of this Church and summing vp in my thoughts all the rarityes I had seen in it I began to think of Ammonius a holy primitiue Saint and afterwards Bishop in the Council of Sardis of whom it s written that comeing to Rome with S. Athanasius he desired to see nothing there but S. Peters Church and knew not the way to any place els I think that if this good man had seen S. Peters Church as it is now he would neuer haue cared for seing any thing els in the world and would euen haue forgot his way home too Neare to the Church of S. Peter stands the Vatican Pallace where the Popes use to winter To describe it to you all at length would take me vp too much time nor indeed is it fit for me to dwell there I will therefore passe through it quickly and rather point you out what 's to be seen there then paint you out in words what I saw there 1. From the Church of S. Peter you ascend into this Pallace by an easy stately pair of stairs capable of ten men a brest These stairs render you vp at the great Hall called Sala Regia because the Pope receiueth here Embassadors of Kings in their Embassies of state It is beautifyed with rare pictures in a great volume as that of the Emperour Frederick kissing the Popes foot of the hand of Gioseppe del Saluiati Garfagnino That of the Ligue in France that of Coligni that of the Pope condemning heresy That of the Pope returning from Auignon are all of the hand of Georgio Vassari That of the Emperour Charles the Great signing the Brief of the donation is of the hand of Thadeo Zuccari that of the battle of Lepanto with the picture of Fayth at the side of it is of the hand of Donato Formello 2. This great Hall stands between two Chappels the Paulina and the Sista In the Paulina is seen a rare picture of the crucifying of S. Peter by Michel Angelo The roof of it also was rarely painted by Federico Zuccari but the smoke of the candles vpon Manday Thursday when this Chappel serues for the Sepulcher hath so defaced these pictures that a farre worse hand would haue serued there 3. The Chappel of Sisto is that in which the Pope holds Capella vpon certain dayes and were all the Cardinals interuene In the end of this Chappel vpon the wall is painted the last Iudgement by Michel Angelo a peece famous ouer all the world The green garments of S. Katharine and the â—ead of S. Biagio are of the painting of Daniel of Volterra who was presently set a worke to make those garments when the Pope had giuen expresse order that this rare picture should be defaced because of some nakedneess in it Vpon great dayes this Chappel is hung with a rare sute of hangings of the designe of Raphael Vrbin wrought with gold and silk containing the Acts of S. Peter and S. Paul 4. Beinde this Chappel stands the Popes Sacristy a place scarce knowne to strangers and therefore seldome seen by them though very well wroth the seeing It s kept alwayes by a Prelat who is alwayes an Augustin Fryar and a Bishop and called Monsignor Sacrista In authors of high times we finde mention of this officer vnder the name of Cimiliarcha or chief Sacristan Here I saw rare Church ornaments for the Popes vse These in particular I cannot let passe without mentioning The cope of saint Syluester Pope thirteen hundred yeares a goe The neat Chasuble of cloth of tyssue with the pictures of the ministring the seauen Sacrements all embrodered in it in silk and gold so rarely that the late Lord Mareshal of England Tho. Earle of Arundel got leaue to haue it painted out and so much the more willingly because it had been giuen to the Pope by King Henry the VIII a little before his Schisme Then the incomparable sutes of ornaments for Priest Deacon and Subdeacon to be vsed in high Masse which were giuen by King Sebastian of Portugal and set all ouer with pearle and these pearles were the first that came out of the Indyes and were in all eight hundred pound weight of pearle The other rare things here were the Head of S. Laurence which I saw neare at hand through a crystal a peece of the spunge in which the Jewes gaue our Sauiour gall to drink the Camisia of S. Prisca a primitiue Saint martyred in it 1400 yeares ago the Crucifix in which is set vnder a crystal a peece of the Holy Crosse carued with the passion of our Sauiour in it a thorne of our Sauiours crowne of thornes which belongd to Pius Quintus a crosse set with Diamans and Pearles which the Pope wears at his brest in great functions a great ring which he also weareth in such functions it s set with a fair Saphir and four great pearles a fair Crucifix enameld and beset with store of pearle and Iewels the Popes Pallium which he wears in great functions the fistula or pipe of gold wherwith the Pope receiues the consecrated blood of our Sauiour in the Chalice vpon great dayes the rare Chalices of gold set with pearle and yet more pretious for their workmanship then for their matter the great Chalice of gold into which the Cardinals put their written Votes in chuseing the Pope by scrutiny the fiue triple crownes called Regni four wereof are set thick with pretious stones and pearle of great value and therfore ordinarily kept in the Castle Angelo two miters of the same richness the chrystal Pixe in which the Blessed Sacrament is kept in the Sepulcher vpon Manday Thursday in fine the booke of the Ghospels painted in miniature by the famous Giulio Glorio for whose first picture here of the last Iudgement Paulus Tertius sent him fifteen hundred pistols as Monsignor Sacrista assured me 5. Passing from hence through the Sala Regia againe I was led into the great roome hard by where the Pope washeth the feet of thirteen Pilgrims vpon Manday Thursday and then giueth euery one of then a great Meddal of Gold with four pistols and an other of syluer 6. Thence I was led into the open gallerie which looketh vpon the court I meane the second lodge for there are three such open galleries where the histories of the Bible are painted most curiously in the roof of it by prime masters That of Adam and the
Creation that where Adam sowes that where the sheep drink that were Jacob saw the ladder that of the last Supper of Christ with his Apostles that where Moyses shews the Laws are all of the hand of Raphael Vrbin That of the Deluge of the adoration of the golden Calf are of the hand of Raphael dal Borgo That where Josue commands the Sun to stop that of Bersabee and the like are of the hand of Pierino del Vago That of the Chariot and some others are of the hand of Carauagio That of Moyses strikeing the Rock that of the iudgement of Salomon and some others are of the hand of Iulio Romano That of the Baptisme of Christ with other such like are of the hand of Pellegrino da Modena Yet because in all these pictures Raphael Vrbin giue either the designe or some touches this Gallery is called Raphaels Gallery indeed nothing but the diuine history it self can be finer then this painting of Diuine Raphael And it belongs onely to Rome to haue the Bible set out thus in its owne colours and if pictures be the best bookes for ignorant people who can say that the Bible is kept from the people here seing its painted and printed here in the most Vulgar tongue and knowne language pictures In a word Raphaels colours seemed to me to illustrate the text very much and to be an excellent Comment vpon the Holy scripture 7. From this gallery I was led into the great chamber where Constantins Victory ouer Maxentius is so rarely painted vpon the walls by Raphaels owne hand that this painting serues this chamber not onely for a rich Tapistry but also for an eternal Trophee to that Emperour The seueral postures here of men and horses all in confusion yet all in such due proportion make this picture in the judgement of Monsieur Poussin a famous painter the rarest thing in the world for designe In the other fellowing rooms there are diuers other rare peeces of the same hand as that of Attila and Pope Leo that of S. Peter in prison a peece much admired for the perspectiue of it That of the B. Sacrament that of the burning of the Borgo that of Aeneas carrying his Father Anchises out of the flames are of Raphaels hand The history of HoHeliodorus ouer the chimney is of the hand of Iulio Romano Raphaels scholler 8. Going vp from hence into the highest open gallerie you l finde it painted with Geographical Maps of the hand of Antonio da Varese The roof of it is also well painted by Pomerancio Paris Romano and Bronzini excellent painters all 9. Then comeing downe I saw the Sala Clamentina a noble roome The rare perspectiues in the roof and in one of the corners both of them expressing the armes of Clement the VIII are worth your attentiue consideration 10. Then the diuers Chambers of his Holyness hung all with Damask hangings in sommer and veluet hangings in winter are very neat In the Popes bed chamber I saw the graue picture of our Lady with her Sonne in her armes called Saint Mary Maior it s painted curiously vpon a white transparent stone three fingers thick and yet shewing the picture on both sides if held before the sun 11. The great roome guilt ouer-head where the Pope treats at dinner great Princes when they come to Rome 12. The old appartament of Pius Quintus with the great wodden bed or rather the little wodden chamber of Paulus Quintus 13. The rare peece of perspectiue ouer the dore of the long roome leading to the Gallery of Maps At the first looking vpon it you see nothing but certain types or figures of the Blessed Sacrament out of the old Testament but being placed directly vnder it and looking vpwards you see all the foresayd types contracted into the forme of a Calice and an hoast ouer it so shew that those old types and shadowes prefigured onely the body and blood of our Sauiour in the holy Sacrifice of the Altar 14. The long gallery of the Maps of Italy painted vpon the walls on both sides by Paulus Brillus a Flemming and others and that so distinctly that you see plainly euery State Prouince City Riuer Village Castle highway of Italy and where any famous battle was fought either in the Romans time or since A Gallery which I wish I had spent as many houres in as I spent dayes in going vp to Rome Diuers other Galleries there are in this house which I passe ouer in silence 14. But I cannot passe euer so the long Gallerie leading to the Beluedere in which is kept the Conclaue of all Popes in this one great roome fifty or thresecore Cardinals lodg and haue euery one two chambers one for himself and the other for his Conclauist Ex vngue Leonem you may judge by this what the whole house is or els by this what they assure you when they tell you that there are fiue thousand Chambers in that Pallace 15. From the middle of the foresayd Gallery you enter into the Vatican Library famous all the learned world ouer for hauing in it besides the Registers of the Roman Church the choycest manuscripts of rhe world in holy languages This Baronnius found who drew from hence notable succour for the maintaining of this Ecclesiasticall history against the Centuriators of Magdebourg who wanting these assured aymes and being otherwise wrongly biassed made faults in their history as many as their Centuries and as great as their Volumes The description of this Library hath been made by learned Angelus Rocca in Latin and by Mutius Pansa in Jtalian yet for the sactisfaction of my curious countrymen I shall say something of it First the roome is a vast long roome speading it self in the furter end into two wings of building which are all full of presses where the manuscripts are kept carefully from mice and rats and moist weather At the entrance into this Library you are let into a fair chamber full of desks for a dozen of writers who haue good stipends to copie out bookes in all languages and they are bound to be writeing so many houres in a morning Round-about this roome hang the Pictures of all the Cardinals that haue been Bibliothecarii since Sixtus Quintus his time Then entrâ—ng into the Library it self I saw the vast wide roome supported like a Church by great squar pillars about which are as many cupbord were the manuscripts are conserued On the wall on the right hand are painted in Fresco the General Councils of the Church with the Bible in the midst laying open vpon a stately throne and with the order and place of precedency obserued in them as also some notable accidents in Ecclesiastical history On the left hand are painted all the famous Libraryes anciently mentioned by authors and vpon the great pillars are painted the first Inuentors and promotors of learning This long roome spreads it self at last into two wings on
Pope Honorius the First A courteous Father of S. Bernards Order here did me the fauour to shew me neare the high Altar this Head and this Picture These two are most authentical things for the attestation of them is in the very Acts of the second Concil of Nice held an 789 where to prooue the lawfullness of sacred Images against the Iconoclasts â—â—e sacred Council cites a miracle wrought by this very picture of S. Anastasius and Baronius quotes diuers others wrought by the same picture In the second Church here to wit the little round Church on the righâ— hand there is a famous picture of S. Bernards Extasis Vnder this Church I was led into a Vault where many of the bodyes of the foresayd ten thousand Christians who were martyred with S. Zeno are buryed This vault goes a mile vnder-ground In the third place stands the little Church of the Tre Fontane so called because S. Paul was here beheaded and where his head iumpt thrice three fountains gushed out Vpon an Altar on the left hand is an excellent Picture of S. Peters crucifixion of the hand of Guido Rheni On the other side is seen a little block within an yron grate vpon which they say S. Pauls head was cut off Going from hence I went ouer the fields to the Church of the Annuntiata one of the nine Churches of Rome visited by Pilgrims and from thenc to S. Sebastians S Sebastians Church is one of the seauen Churches and of great deuotion by reason of the Catacombes which are vnder it Here I saw the Tombe of S. Sebastian vnder an altar on the left hand many relicks kept ouer an altar on the right hand and the Vault vnderneath where Pope Steuen was beheaded in his owne Seat of stone and where S. Peters and S. Pauls bodyes were hidden many yeares Thenc I was let into the Catacombes which are vnder this Church and which from thenc running many miles vnder ground made anciently a Christian Rome vnder the Heathen There were divers of these Catacombes in the primitiue times and they were called diuersly Arenaria Cryptae Areae Concilia Martyrum Poliandria but most frequently Caemeteria that is dormitoria because here reposed the bodyes of the holy Martyrs and Saints qui obdormiuerunt in Domino But the greatest of all these Caemeteria was this of Calixtus In these Catacombes dureing the persecutions raysed against the Christians by ten Heathen Emperors the faithfull beleeuers together with their Popes and Pastors vsed priuatly to meet to excercice their Religion and steale their deuotions that is to heare Masse in little round Chappels painted ouer head poorely Minister the Sacraments bury the dead Martyrs and Confessors in the walls of the long alleys preach hold conferences and euen celebrate Councils too sometimes I descended seueral times into seueral parts of these Catacombes with a good experienced guide which you must besure of and with waxe lights torches being too stifeling and wandered them vp and downe with extraordinary satisfaction of minde The streets vnder ground are cut out with mens hands and mattocks They are as high as a man for the most part no broader then for two men to meet All the way long the sides of these Alleys are full of holes as long as a man and sometimes there are three rowes one ouer an other in which they had buryed their Martyrs and Confessors and that posterity might afterwards know which were Martyrs which Confessors they engraued vpon the stone which mur'd them vp or vpon one of the bricks a Palme branch in signe of a Martyr and a Pro Christo in Cyphers for a Confessor It s recorded that during the forsayd persecutions a hundred seauenty four thousand Martyrs were buryed here in this Cametery of Calixtus among whom were nineteen Popes Martyrs Hence these Catacombes haue alwayes been esteemed as a place of great deuotion and much frequented by deuout persons The words ouer the dore as you descend into them from the Church of S. Sebastian tell you how S. Hierome confesseth that he vsed euery Sunday and Holyday during his stay in Rome to go to these Catacombes And a picture hung ouer the same dore sheweth how S. Philip Neri vsed to frequent these holy places in the night and from whence I beleeue he sucked that true spirit of the primitiue Church which reigned in him and still reigneth in the breasts of his most vertuous children the pious Priests of the Oratory of Rome whom I must alwayes prayse wheresouer I find them because I alwayes find them either writeing holy things or liuing them that is either writeing books fit to be liued or liuing liues fit to be written Indeed its incredible how much the presence of these Holy Martyrs bodyes hath sanctifyed this place in so much that no man enters into the catacombes but he comes better out then he went in Catholicks come out farre more willing to dye for that faith for which so many of their ancesters haue dyed before them The Aduersaryes of the Roman Church come out more staggered in their fayth and more milde towards the Catholick Religion to see what piety there is euen in the bowels of Rome Atheists come out with that beleef that surely there is a God seing so many thousands of Martyrs haue testifyed it with their blood From S. Sebastians I went to the place hard by called Capo di Boue standing vpon the Via Appia It is a great building faced about with marble stones It was the Sepulcher of Metella wife of rich Crassus It s now called Capo di Boue because of the oxe heads cut in marble which compose the cornice that runns about the top of this Moles Entering into it you will wonder at the thickness of the walls which are aboue eight ells thick It was begun to be pulled downe especialy the great marble stones on the outside of it to make vp the Fontana di Treui but Cardinal Barberino would not suffer it to be so defaced Close by stand the ruines of the Pretorium the Quarters of the Pretorian Bands which the Emperours lodged here a little out of the throng of the towne that they might not occasion so easily tumults and that they might exercise themselues often in the Circo of Caracalla which was hard by This Circus was made by the Emperor Caracalla and is the most entire of all the Circos that were in Rome You see where the Carceres or starting place was where the Meta where the Guglia were You see how long it was and the walls yet show you what compasse it carryed In the midst of it stood that Guglia which now stands in the midst of Piazza Nauona I saw it lye here broken in three peeces and neglected quite till the Earle of Arundel our late Lord Mareshal Offering to buy it hauing already depositated threescore crownes in earnest for it made the
picture of our Sauiour in the very Tribuno or Abside was the first picture that appeared publickly in Rome and which was miraculously coÌ„serued in the burning of this church There are diuers in others pictures in that Vaulted Tribun in Masaick worke and some simbolical figures relating to our Sauiours life and passion which were much vsed anciently in Churches as you may see in many other Churches and in the rare booke called Roma Soterranea 4. The High Altar here within which is shut vp the Woodden Altar which S. Peter and the primitiue Popes made vse of in saying Masse vpon it during the persecutions and before they had any setled Churches S. Syluester in the dedication of this Church fixed it here and none can say Masse at this Altar but the Pope or dureing the Popes indisposition some Cardinal with a particular dispensation or Apostolical Brief which must be fastened to one of the four pillars of the Altar during the Cardinals saying Masse there Ouer this Altar stands a great Tabernacle of Marble borne vp by four pillars not onely seruing for a Canopy to the Altar but also for an Arca to the Heads of S. Peter and S. Paul which are kept within it and showne there to the people vpon great dayes through an iron grate which enuirons them 5. The Altar of the B. Sacrament adorned by the cost of Clement the VIII With a curious and pretious Tabernacle of rich polished stones and with four pillars of brasse guilt about fifteen foot high Ouer this Altar is the Table it self vpon which our Sauiour eat the Paschal Lambe before his Passion and then presently instituted the Holy Sacrament of which the Paschal Lambe was but a figure 6. The brasen Tombe of Martin the V of the house of Colonna who was chosen Pope in the Council of Constance 7. The Tombe of Alexander the III of the house of Bandinelli in Siena neatly adorned by Pope Alexander the VII who tooke his name of Alexander from him 8. The Tombe of Laurentius Valla a learned Roman and Chanon of this Church of whom as the restorer of pure Latin language after Gotick Barbarousness Latonius sung thus Romulus est Vrbis Valla est idiomatis author Hic reparat primus primus vt ille strâ—it 9. In old Gotick Letters vpon the Architraue of the portch of this Church you read these Leonine verses Dogmate Papali datur ac simul Jmperiali Quòd sim Cunctarum Mater Caput Ecclesiarum 10. In the Cloister of this Church I saw the Chaire of Porphiry which vseth to be placed neare to the Great dore of the Church on that day the Pope taketh possession of his charge in this Church in which Chaire the Pope is placed a while and at his riseing from it againe the Quire sings this verse of the 112 Psalme Suscitat de puluere egenum de stercore eregit pauperem and this Ceremony and pierced Chair are onely to put the Pope in minde of his humane infirmityes amidst His glorious exaltations and the peoples applauses For so also the Greek Emperors on the day of their coronation had a great many marble stones of seueral colours presented to them to choose which of them they would to make their Tombe of This was to put them in mind of their mortality admidst those great honours But it s strange to see how the enemies of the Popes giue out maliciously that this Chair whose vse we see so plainly in the vety Ceremonial of Rome was onely intended ad explorandum sexum and to hinder the inconueniency of another Pope Ioanne For this reason I think it not amisse to examin a little this fable of a shee Pope or of a Pope Ioanne I am not affrayd at all to call this a fable both for the vnlikelinesse of it in generall as also for the suspected authority of its first broachers the contrarietyes in the story and the little credit giuen vnto it by the learnedest aduersaryes of the Roman Church First what can be more vnlikely then that a woman should surprise such a wise nation as the Italians are and so grossely what more vnlikely then that a woman should passe her youth in those seuere studyes which are required in Popes without being knowne to have wrongd or discouered her sexe and that she must just do it when she was in a declineing age at which age Popes ordinarily are chosen What more vnlikely then that a woman findeing her self great with child should venture to go so farre a foot in a procession What more vnlikely then that if there had been such a shee Pope the Greek Church which then was at odds with the Roman Church should haue passed it ouer in silence and not haue obraided her with such a disgracefull Pastor especially seing the Roman Church had obraided the Greek Church with hauing an Eunuch for her chief Patriarch What in fine more vnlikely then that there should haue been such a shee Pope so publikly conuinced to haue been a woman that Anastasius Bibliothecarius who worte the liues of the Popes some thirty yeares after that pretended time and who must haue liued in her time speaks nothing of any such woman or any such strange accident Secondly the first broachers of this story make it Very much suspected seing Martinus Polonus and some others of the Emperors faction then at Variâ—nce with the Popes are the first that mentioned this fable and Platina who quotes no higher authors for it grounds a story of this consequence vpon no better authority then a weake si dice us fayd Thirdly the apparent contradictions in the Tale conuince it of falsity as that this Ioanne was an English woman borne in Mentz which all men know to be a Rhenish towne in Germany and that she had studyed at Athenes in Greece which long before this time had been destroyed Fourthly the little credit giuen to it by the learnedest aduersaryes of the Roman Church to wit four prime Ministers of France who take this history for a meere fable proues sufficiently that its worse then an old wifes tale For M. Blondel a French Minister whom I knew in Paris aboue twenty yeares ago and a man of that account there that he was chosen to answer the learned booke of Cardinal Peron this Blondel I say made a booke in French printed at Amsterdam by Bleau Anno 1647 in octauo On purpose to shew that this story of a shee Pope called Joanne was a meere fable And that we may not think that Blondel alone of all Protestant Ministers held this for a Fable Monsieur Serrauius a great Caluinist and Counselor of the Parlament of Paris in a letter of his to Salmasius hauing mentioned to him this booke of Blondel addeth these words Noli autem credere primum aut solum è nostris Blondellum ita sensisse quamuis Fortassis nemo vnquam fortius pressius istud solum
conclaueait Fuere enim in eadem sententia non incelebres inter Reformatos Theologi adhuc vigent in hac Vrbe insignes fide pietate viri qui audierunt ex ore Camerii se istam historiam Vulgo creditam fabulosis deputare Vidi nuper scriptas literas docti vegeti senis tibique mihi amicissimi Petri Molinaei quibus idem semper sibi esse visum affirmabat Penes me sunt literae Samuelis Bocharti quibus testatur sibi esse pro comperto vanum fictitium quicquid hactenus de ea sit proditum Thus Monsieur Serrauius in a priuate letter though his sonn after his death printed his litters to a freind of the same religion And thus you see how this fable maintained highly a long time by the Aduersaries of the Roman Church expired at last as all lyes do and was carryed to its graue vpon the shoulders of four French Ministers Blondel Chamier du Moulin and Bochart If I haue been a little too long in this digression you will pardon me We are all debtors to Truth and all men ought to be glad to see themselues disabused Going out of the little back dore of this Church I went to see the Baptistery of Constantin the Great Our most Noble Countryman and the first Emperour that publickly professed Christianity This Baptistery is built round and in the center of it in a descent of four steps stands the very Font in which the sayd Emperor was baptized by Pope Syluester It s enuironed with low rayles of marble and adorned with ten or twelue great pillars of Porphyrie the fairest in Rome which beare vp the painted Vault ouer the Font so that people standin about these rayles may see conueniently the baptizeing of Jewes and Infidels in the pitt below Vpon the Walls of the round Chappel are painted in Fresco the most memorable actions of Constantin the Great as his Vision of the Crosse in the ayre with these words aboue it In hoc signo Vinces his ouercomeing the Tyrant Maxentius his baptisme here by S. Siluester his burning the Libels against Catholike Bishops preferred to him by the Arrians his kissing the wounds of those good Bishop in the Council of Nice who had either their fingars cut off or one eye put out by the Tyrants On the other side of S. Iohn Laterans Church stands the Scala Santa and the Sancta Sanctorum The Scala Santa is called from the stairs twenty eight in all vp which our Sauiour was led in this passion to Pilats house Vpon some of them you see the places where the pretious blood of our Sauiour had fallen and for that reason they are couered with little grates of brasse which let in eyes but keep of knees I say knees for none go vp these holy stairs otherwise then kneeling and this out of reuerence to him who often fell vpon his knees as he was draggd vp and downe these stairs It s painfull enough to go vp these stairs vpon your knees yet I saw it done hourly in the Iubily yeare by continual flocks of deuout people both men and women of great condition as well as of great deuotioÌ„ these holy staires were Sent from Hierusalem to Constantin the Great by his Moter Queen Helen together with many other Relicks kept in S. Iohn Laterans Church They are of whit marble and aboue six foot long At the head of these stairs stands the Chappel called Sancta Sanctorum because of the Holy things kept in it Hence ouer the Altar in this Chappel are written these words Non est in toto Sanctior Orbe Locus Vpon the Altar is kept the miraculous picture of our Sauiour it represents him about thirteen yeares old and onely his half body It s about a foot a halfe long and it s sayd to haue been begun by S. Luke but ended miraculously by an Angel Others say that S. Luke hauing onely prepared the ground and before he had drawne one stroke fell to his prayers to beg of God that he might draw his Son right and riseing vp againe he found his picture already finished Hence Domenico Magri a learned Antiquarie is of opinion that this pisture of our Sauiour is that very picture which Anastasius Bâ—bliothecarius in the life of Steuen the II calls Achyropaeta that is made without hands Round about this picture goes a set of great iewels enriching the frame of it Vnder the Altar reposeth the body of S. Anastasius of whose head and picture I spoke aboue in the description of the Church of this Saint at the Tre Fontane Here are also kept the Heads of S. Agnes and S. Praxedes with many other pretious Relicks Anciently as the Records here mention the Holy Prepuce or Foreshin of our Sauiour was kept here too but being taken away in the sack of Rome by one of Bourbons soldiers it was left in a a country towne called Calcata some fifteen wiles distant from Rome by the same soldier who could not rest day nor night as long as he had that relick about him I once passed by that towne Calcata by chance and by the ciuilityes of the Lord of the towne Count of Anguillara at whose house we were nobly entertained all night had the happiness the next morning to see this pretious Relick through the crystal case This Count keeps one key of it and the Parish Priest the other without both which it cannot be seen Neare to the Scala Santa is seen a famous peece of Antiquity of Christian Rome called Triclinium Leonis where is seen a Mosaick picture of our Sauiour resuscitated and holding out a booke to his Disciples in which are written these words Pax vobis Peace be to you Which picture Leo caused to be made eight hundred yeares ago as an emblem of his peaceable returne againe to his seat after he had been chased out by his enemyes Vpon a pillar on the right hand is painted our Sauiour sitting vpon a Throne and giuing with one hand the Keys of the Church to S. Peter and with the other the Imperial standard to Constantin the Great Vpon the other pillar on the left hand is represented in Mosaick worke also S. Peter sitting in a Chair and with one hand giuing vnto Pope Leo the III the Papal stole and with the other the Imperial standard vnto Charlemagne who had restored this Pope Leo to his seat againe From hence passing againe by S. Iohn Lateranâ— Church I saw first the pallace of the Pope here built by Sixtus Quintus then the great Guglia with Egyptian Hyeroglyphes figured vpon it which had stood anciently in the Circus Maximus it s aboue 100 foot high was brought from Alexandria to Rome by Constantin the Great lastly in a low roome ioyning to the Church I saw the Statue in Bronze of Henry the IV of France set vp here by the Canons of S. Iohn Laterans
adorne S. Peters High Altar And though the People and Pasquin two equaly sensless things murmured much at the takeing away of this brasse yet seing the Pantheon receiued no damage therby and seing it was improued to that height that it became Ecclesiae Ornamentum Vrbi Munimentum the wiser sort of men thought it well employed and let the people and malice talke I had almost forgot to tell you that this Temple was made by Agrippa who had been thrice Consul as the words in the Architraue of the porch yet shew From hence I went through the Campo Marzo vnto the Church of S. Lorenzo in Lucina which is serued by Cherici Regolari Minori It s an ancient Church neatly repaired of late and the greatest Parish Church in Rome From hence I went to see the Pallace of Burghesi which is hard by This is one of the noblest Pallaces in Rome It giues you a faire broad-side of windowes three storyes one ouer another and its lenght is prodigious Mounting vp to the Chambers J found a fair open Gallery built vpon arches and pillars round about the Court This Gallery lets you into seueral appartiments and on that side which ouerlooks the Piazza J saw a row often or twelue great Chambers through which I looked at once In these chambers and the other roomes I obserued these things 1. Rich hangings and ouer them rare painting made by a Capucin Lay-brother The history of the Queen of Sabas comeing to visit Salomons Court and the rapt of the Sabines which make this Fregiâ— ouer the hangings are so rarely well done that Raphael and Michel Angelo would not haue mended them for colours 2. A great Cabinet of Ebeny set with historyes cast in gold and set with rich pretious stones it s valuâ—d at threescore thousand crownes 3. A rare picture of Hercules and Anteus 4. Raphaels owne picture 5. The last supper by Titian 6. The Terrasse and garden with boxe kotts and fountains of water all at the very top of the house and ouer looking the street riuer meadows and S. Peters 7. The little back gallery of pictures where among others I was showne the pictures of Martin Luther Nicolas Macchiauel and Caesar Borgia There great Corruptors of Religion Polioy and Manners 8. The low coole gallery full of statues and pictures especially of the Borghesian Family That of Paulus Quintus in a small Mosaick worke is scarce to be discouered from painting as also the Assumption of our Lady in the same worke There I saw also Titians owne picture and the rare Crucifix made by Michel Angelo so to life that some men haue fabulously giuen out that he drew it after a crucifyed man From hence I went to see the Mausoleum Augusti or the Tombe of Augustus Caesar standing neere S. Rocks Church in a priuate place hard to be found out It was once one of the neatest structures in Rome And it was but fitting that the first of the Emperours should haue an honorable tombe and that hee who hauing found Rome built of brick onely had left it all of marble should haue a marble monument erected to him after his death Vrbem Lateritiam inueni marmoriam relinquo sayd Augustus The Mausoleum was a round building of white marble going vp with four storyes set round with pillars and each story growing lesser and lesser with green trees set abâ—â—t euery story hauing at the top of â—ll the brazen statue of Augustus It was two hundred and fifty cubits high But how it s much defaced and we see something of the greatness of it but little of its beauty Going from hence to the Church of S. Antony of Padua belonging to the Portughesi I saw the Tombe of the Great Canonist and Casuist Nauarre or Martin Aspelcuita with his statue in busto ouer it This good man hearing how his great friend Caranza was called to Rome to answer for himself in points of doctrine which he was falsely accused of followed him thither of his owne accord to deffend his cause and cleare his innocency and hauing done it died here Neare to this Church stands the Church and Conuent of the Austîn Friers In the Church I saw the Tombe of S. Monica mother to S. Augustin Here also lyes buryed Onufrius Panuinus a Fryer of this Conuent learned in sacred antiquityes and in the Hebrew tongue In the Conuent I often saw the neat Library called Bibliotheca Angelica becâ—se Angelus Rocca a Bishop and Master of the Popes Sacristy gaue it at his death to his Conuent with an obligation of letting it be open in the mornings Among many curious bookes I remember to haue seen there the Prophecies of Joachim where among other things he sayth that the Turks shall be ouercomne and ruined by three nations by the French propter bonos equos by the English propter bonos marinarios and by the Venetians propter bonum consilium These are his very words Neare to the forsayd Church stands the Church of S. Apollinaris and the GermaÌ„ Colledge Here the best singers of Rome meet constantly Ouer against this Church stands the Pallace of the Duke of Altemps In which I saw the great Hall and in it the Triumph of Bacchus in a basso rilieuo cut in marble with exquisit arte I saw also here the representation of a Towne cut in wood an ancient and curious peece The picture of our B. Lady with her son in her armes valued at fiue thousand pistols it is of Raphaels hand The neat Library full of diuers good manuscripts and other books In fine the noble Chappel with the Tombe of S. Anaclet Pope vnder the Altar with the head of this Saint in the Sacristy enchased in syluer and set thick with rich stones The rich ornaments here for the Church seruice cost the Duke a hundred and twenty thousand crownes From hence in fine I went to S. Iohn Florentins a neat Church belonging to the Florentins at whose cost it was built Here is in one of the Chappels the picture of our Sauiours Resurrection made by Lanfranc a rare peece And being lodged neare this Church I found that I had wandered ouer all Rome and was now come againe to the Bridg of S. Angelo were I began my first dayes iourney through Rome But seing that in such townes as this there is alwayes something to be seen after all I made many irregular excursions vp and downe Rome to view many things which I had not taken in my direct way before as some pallaces some rare fountains diuers antiquities studies of virtuosi and the like which I haue been forced for methods sake to passe ouer yet because there are whole bookes of all the pallaces fountains statues and antiquityes set forth in cutts and pictures I remit my Reader to them while I aske one question Where are now those rare peeces of antiquity which historyes rather mention then we finde now in Rome as the Cymboum
then before Then it flamed and cast out a cloud of ashes which had the wind stood toward the Citie had couered all Naples and buryed it in those ashes Then it began to roare as if Madame Nature her self had been in labour Thunder was but pistolcrack to this noyse and the mouth of a Cannon a full mile wide must needs giue a great report It bellowed and thundered againe Naples trembled the ground swelled The Sea it self shiuered for feare when the hill tearing its entrals with huge violence was brought to bed of a world of vast stones and a fludd of Sulphurious matter which ran from the top of the mountain into the Sea for the space of three miles All this he tould me and this he shewed me afterward in a publick inscription vpon a fair marble stone erected hard by And all this made me but the more desirous of seeing this mountain Wherefore spurring on we came soone after to the foot of the hill where leauing our horses we began to crawle vp that step hill for a good mile together to the midlegg in ashes At last with much a doe we got to the top of the hill and peeping fearfully remembring Plinyes accident into the great hellow from the brinck of it found it to be like a Vast Kettle farre greater then those Hell Kettles near Deslington in the Bishoprick of Durham made by earthquakes For the orifice of this Kettle is a mile or two wide and very nigh as deep In the bottom of it is a new little hill riseing out of the hollow of the old and fumeing perpetually with a thick smoke as if it also would play tricks too in its turne Hauing gazed a while at this Chimney of Hell for Tertullian calls Aetna and Vesuuius Fumariola inferni we came faster downe then we went vp Hee that is not content with this my short description of the burning of this Hill let him read Iulius Caesar Recupitus who hath made a little booke alone of it called De Vesuniano incendio Nuntius Hauing recouered our horses againe we came back to Naples and the next morning takeing a new guide we went to see the wonders of Nature about Baiae and Puzzuâ—lo Horseing then againe betimes in the morneing we passed by the Castle Vouo and soone after to Margelino to see the Tombe of Sannazarîus the Poët who lyes buryed in the Church of Santa Maria del Parto which was once Sannazarius his owne house which dyeing he left to be made a Church of vnder that title so that in his Testament he wrote de Virginis partu as well as in his booke and he might as well haue written vpon the Frontispice of this Church as vpon the Frontispice of his Booke opera Sannazarij de Virginis parâ—u His Tombe here is adorned with marble figures and with this ingenious Epitaph made of him by Cardinal Bembo Da sacro cineri flores Hic ille Maroni Sincerus Musâ proximus vt tumulo His name was Iacobus Sannazarius but he changed his name for that of Sincerus at the request of Pontanus who also changed his name too and caused himself to be called Iouianus as Iouius in Elogiis virorum Doctorum sayth Not farr of this place nor farr from the entrance of the Grotte of Pausilipus in the Gardens of S. Seuerino stands Virgils tombe couered almost ouer with Laurel or Baâ—-trees as yf that Poëts Laurel were growne into a Shadybower to make a whole tombe of Laurel for the Prince of Poëts From thence we returned againe into our way and presently came to the entrance of the Grotte of Pausilipus this Mountain lyeing at the very back of Naples and rendering the passage to Naples extreamly inconuenient for carriages it was thought fit to cut a cart way vnder ground quite through the mountain some say it was Lucullus that caused it to be thus boared others say it was Cocceius Nerua Certain it is that it is ancient seing Seneca makes mention of it Entring into the Grotte of Paulisipus we found it to be about forty foot high and broad enough for two carts laden to meet with ease They say here that it is a full mile long but I thought it scarce so much We rid some forty paces by the light of the wide entrance but that Vanishing we were left in the darke a good while till we came to the halfway where there hangs a burning Lamp before the picture of our Sauiour in the B. Virgins armes The light of this Lamp was very gratefull vnto vs and I am confident a Puritan himself were he here would be glad to see this Lampe and Picture and loue them better for it euer after All the way of this Grotta is very euen and Leuel but hugely dusty as a roome must be that hath not been sweept these sixteen hundred yeares The people of the country meeting here in the darke know how to auoyd one another by going from Naples on the right hand and returning on the left that is by keeping on the moutain side going and returning on the Sea side and this they expresse by cryeing out often A la Montagna or a la Marina To the mountain side or to the Sea side to giue notice whether they come or go Our guide vnderstood the word and he giuing it vnto mee and I to my next man it rann through our whole Brigade which consisted of a dozen horsemen in all Almost all the way we rid in it we shut our eyes haueing little vse of them and our mouths and noses too for feare of being choked with the dust so that our exteriour senses being thus shut vp our interiour begaÌ„ to worke more freely and to think of this odd place My thoughts comeing newly from Sannazarius and Virgils tombes fell presently vpon Poetry for all this country is a Poetical country and I began to think whether this were not Polyphemus his den because Homer makes it to haue been neare the Seaside as this is and capable of holding great heards of sheep as this also is Sometimes I thought that it might haue been here that Iupiter was hidden from his deuouring Father Saturne who came into Italy for certain as also because Sophocles makes mention of Iupiter Pausilipus But at last I concluded that this was the place where the merry Gods and Goddesses after their iouial suppers playd at hide and seek without being hood-winckt By this time we began to see the otheâ— end of the Grotte a farre off by a little light which grew greater and greater till at last we came to the yssue of it Being got out of this Cymmeran rode we began to open our eyes againe to see if we could find one an other and our mouths too to discourse vpon this exotick place Thus we rid discourseing vpon this wonder till we came to the Grotta del Cane a new wonder Arriueing there we presently had a dog ready though for the most
pictures of all the Dukes of Ferrara â—ere the Popes Legate lyeth 5. The Diamand Pallace as they call it is of white marble without whose stones are all cut diamant wise into sharp points Hauing seen it without I longd to see it within hopeing that a diamant pallace without would be all carbuncle and Pearle within But I was deceived for entring in I found nothing worth the paynes of going vp the vgly stairs and the poore woman that kept the house told me as much as well as the cold kitchen I wonder the master of this house doth not keep it alwayes lockt vp that strangers might value it by its outside onely which is admirable indeed 6. The Monastery of the Benedictins is stately in whose church I found the Tombe of Ariosto author of the long Poëme called Orlando Furioso He was esteemed in his life time a great Poët and as such was crowned Laureat Poët by the Emperor Charles the V. but he was oftentimes seen euen in the streets to be too much transported with Poëtick fury and to become Ariosto furioso while he was penning his Orlando He had a rich Vaine but a poore purse and while his head was crowned with Laurel his breeches were often out behinde as well as those of Torquato Tasso of whom Balzac sayth that though he were a good Poët yet he had des fort mauuaises chauses 7. The Carthusians church is neat full of good Pictures 8. The Church and Conuent of the Carmelits is also neat in whose Library I saw a Manuscript of Iohn Bacon and an other of learned Thomas Waldensis both Englishmen and both Learnedmen Here 's an Academy of Wits called Gli Elevati of this towne was Hieronymus Sauâ—narola author of the Triumphus Crucis and Baptista Guarini author of the Pastor Fido. He that desires to know the history of Ferrara let him read GioGiouanni Baptista Pigna who hath written of it ex professâ— From Ferrara we went to Padua in two dayes the season being good and dry otherwise in winter it s too deep a way to go by Land therefore most men embarke at Ferrara and go by boate to Venice The first day Passing ouer the Po in boat at Francalino We reached Ruigo the first towne of the Venetian State This towne is built neare where Adria from whence the Adriatick Sea is called once stood and almost vpon its ruines It s gouerned by a Podesta and a Capitano Grande as the other townes of S. Mark are Of this towne was Coelius Rodiginus a man of Various learning as his books shew and Bonifacius Bonifacij an other learned humanist From Ruigo we arriued at Padua betimes but the desire of seing Venice made vs hasten away the next day deferring to see Padua till our returne from Venice Embarking then betimes in the morning at Padua in a Piâ—tta a neat little barge taken to our selues and much more honorable then to go in the great tiltboate where all sortes of loosy ruffians and idle people throng you vp we saw a world of stately Pallaces and gardens standing vpon the bankes of the riuer Brenta and sewing vs that we were approching to a great towne indeed Some fiue miles short of Venice we left the riuer and the horses that drew vs and â—owed through the Shallow Sea which enuironeth Venice on all sides for aboue fiue miles space This low Sea is called here La Laguna and the water is so shallow that no great ships can come to Venice little vessels come by certain channels which are well fortifyed with castles forts chaynes so that no man can come to Venice but with Leaue or knocks We arriued there betimes and all the way we admired to see such a stately Citie lyeing as it were at anchor in the midst of the Sea and standing fixed where euery thing els floats Venice at first was nothing but a company of little dry spots of ground which held vp their heads in a Shallow Sea furnished by Saeuen riuers Piaua Sila Liuenza Po Adige Brenta and Tagliamento Which runn into it To these little dry spots of ground fisher men repayred anciently for their fishing and built little cottages vpon them But afterwards Italy being one runn by Goths Huns and Vicegoths diuers rich men from seueral parts of Italy as well as from Padua fled hither with the best of their goods to saue them and them selues in these poore cottages vnknowne to those Barbarous nations and findeing by experience this to be a safer place then any else they began to prouide against those frequent disasters of barbarous incursions by building good houses here This many men did made at last a fine towne here and greater then her mother Padua This happened twelue hundred years agoe which makes Venice glory that she is the ancientest Republick in Europe To which purpose I cannot omit to tell here a pretty story which was told me in Paris of à Venetian Embassador who resideing in the Court of France and finding himself in a visite where there were many Ladyes was seriously asked by a graue old Lady who heard him speak much of the Seignorie of Venice Whether the Seignorie of Venice were fair or no yes Madame sayd hee one of the fairest in Europe Is she great sayd the Lady again yes Madame sayd the Embassador she is great enough Is she riche sayd the Lady 〈◊〉 worth millions replyed the Embassador Me thinks then sayd the Lady she would be a good match for Monsieur the Kings Brother yes Madame replyed hee againe but that she is a little too old Why how old is she I pray you sayd the Lady Madame answered the Embassador she is about twelue hundred years old At which the company smileing the good Lady perceiued her errour with blushing and Monsieur was vnmarryed for that present Indeed Cosmography and Topography are hard words and as the old saying is aliud sceptrum aliud plectrum a looking glasse is not the same thing with a Map As for Venice now it s one of the fairest Cities in Europe and called by the Proverbial Epithete Venetia la Ricca Venice the Rich. It s well nigh eight miles in compasse and in forme something like a Lute It hath no walls about it to defend it but a mote of water that is fiue miles broad which surrounds it It hath no suburbs but a world of little Ilands close by it The Streets of Venice are all full of water and for this reason they vse no câ—aches here but visit in boats These boats they call here Gondolas and there are aboue twenty thousand of them For besides that euery noble Venetian or rich man hath two or there of his owne there are alwayes a world of them standing together at seueral publick wharfs so that you need but cry out Gondola and you haue them lanch out presently to you these Gondolas are pretty neat
in any towne It runns from the Sea side vp along the Pallace to the Church of S. Mark and from thence turning on the left hand it spreads it self into a more large and longer open place most beautifull to behold for the whole piazza euen from the Sea side to the further end is all built vpon arches and marble pillars and raysed vp with beautifull lodgeings fit to lodge all the Procuratori of S. Mark all the rich forrain merchants a world of persons of condition the Mint and the famous Library In that part of the piazza which lyes vnder the Pallace the Nobili Venetiani walke altogether twice a day to conferre about business of State This meeting here of the Noblemen is called the Broglio And in the end of it close by the Sea side stand two great pillars of rich marble the one bearing vpon it the Image of S. Theodorus the other the Lyon of S. Mark these two Saints S. Mark and S. Theodore being the two Patrons of this City These two pillars were erected here by a Lombard who required no other recompence for his paynes then that it might be lawfull for dice-players to play at dice between these two pillars without being punished or molested nay though they playd false play Here also between these two pillars they execute malefactors to shew that they deserue not the protection of those two patrons who break the orders of that towne which is vnder their protection It s pitty that the Lombard himself was not whiped here at least for makeing himself the Protector of idle rogues there where the Saints are Patrons of honestmen Ouer against the Pallace stands the Mint in a place called La Zeccha and from hence the gold coyned here is called Zecchino a peéce of gold worth some seauen shillings fixpence of our mony Hard by it stands the Library famous both for the quantity and quality of the bookes that are in it Petrark once Canon of the Church of Padua gaue his Library to it and Bessarion a Greek Cardinal of great Learning and worth gaue as many Greek Manuscripts vnto it as cost him thirty thousand crownes and yet by this Legacy Bessarion was but euen with the Venetians who honored him in such a particular manner as to send out the Bucentauro it self to bring him into Venice being sent thither Legat by the Pope 8. Going from hence into the other part of the Piazza which stands before the Church I espyed vpon the very out corner of the wall of the Church as you come out of the Pallace four Porphiry Statues of four marchants embraceing one another Haueing enquired what those Statues were set for there I was told by a graue old gentleman of Venice that those whom these Statues represent were four marchants and strangers who brought hither most of the Iewels mentioned aboue in the Treasury and that afterwards poysoning one another out of couetousness left this State heire of all Iust before the Church stand three tall masts of ships vpon curiously wrought Piedestals of Brasse and each mast bearing vpon great dayes a stately flag and streamers These three mastâ— signify the three noblest parts of the Venetians dominions to wit the kingdomes of Cyprus and of Candy and the State of Venice In this Piazza I found alwayes a world of strangers perpetually walking and talking of bargains and traffick as Greeks Armenians Albanians Slauonians Polonians Iewes and euen Turks themselues all in their seueral habits but all conspireing in this one thing to sell deare and buy cheape Here also they haue euery night in sommer a world of Montibancks ciarlatani and such stuff who together with their drudges and remedyes striue to please the people with their little comedies puppet playes songs musick storyes and such like buffonnerie It s strange to see how they finde dayly either new fooling or new fooles not onely to heare them but euen the throw them money too for such poore contentments In this Piazza also stands the Campanile or High steeple of Venice distant some fifty paces from the Church of S. Mark It s built forty foot squar on all sides and two hundred and thirty six high The top of it is couered with guilt tiles which in a sunshine day appeare gloriously a farre off The foundation of it is almost as deep vnder-ground as the top of it is high aboue ground a wonder if you consider rhat it stands in Venice From the top of this Campanile we had a perfect view of Venice vnder us and of all its neighboring Ilands Forts Sea and Townes about it as also of the outside of S. Marks Church its Frontispice its Cupolas and the four horses of brasse guilt which stand ouer the Frontispice These horses came out of the shop not out of the stable of Lisippus a famous statuary in Greece and were giuen to Nero by Tiridates King of Armenia They were carryed by Constantin the Great from Rome to Constantinople and from thence they were transported hither In fine from the top of this steeple we saw the compasse of the great Arsenal of Venice which looked like a little towne in our sight Indeed some make it three miles about but I cannot allow it so much The sight of this Magazin of warre a farre off made vs hasten downe from the steeple to go see it nearer hand 9. Takeing therefore a Gondola we went to the Arsenal Where after the ordinary formalityes of leauing our swords at the dore and paying the Porters fees we were admitted and led through this great Shop of Mars It s so well seated neare the Sea side and so well built that it might serue the Venetian Senators for a Castle in time of danger and in it there is a Well of fresh water not to be poysoned because of two peéces of Vnicornes horne set fast in the bottom of it I confesse I neuer saw any where such Oeconomie as is here obserued Fifteen hundred men are dayly employed here and duely payed at the weeks end according to their seueral employments and works The expences of these workemen amount to a thousand Ducats euery day in the yeare so that they make accompt that they spend in this Arsenal four hundred thirty thousand crownes a yeare Enough almost to maintain a pretty army constantly Euery workeman here hath wine twice a day and that very good too but that it is a little mingled with water We were led through all the vast rooms of this Magazin rooms like vast Churches In one of them I saw nothing but great â—ares for Gallyes seauen men going to one oare In another nothing but vast sternes In another nothing but vast nayles for Gallyes and ships In another they were making nothing but Salpeeter for gunpowder In another they were casting great Cannons Morter peéces and Chambers In an other they had nothing but a pair of vast Scales to weigh Cannons with In another Masts for Gallyes and ships of a