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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A29826	A brief account of some travels in divers parts of Europe viz Hungaria, Servia, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Thessaly, Austria, Styria, Carinthia, Carniola, and Friuli : through a great part of Germany, and the Low-Countries : through Marca Trevisana, and Lombardy on both sides of the Po : with some observations on the gold, silver, copper, quick-silver mines, and the baths and mineral waters in those parts : as also, the description of many antiquities, habits, fortifications and remarkable places / by Edward Brown.	Brown, Edward, 1644-1708.	1685 (1685)	Wing B5111; ESTC R7514	234,342	240

would be much surprized to find such a notable one here as may compare with them especially upon the extreme Borders of the Learned part of Europe The number and nobleness of the Books doth much exceed the receptacle or place which contains them as making no fair shew at the entrance and somewhat wanting light But as for the number and value of the Books they are of opinion here that it yields unto none but rather excels any other Library in Europe There was a place designed for the building of a fit receptacle for them but I know not how a Theatre for Comedies is now built in that place It is divided into eight Chambers or Rooms which are so well filled that many Books are fain to lie upon the Floor and the Shelves stand so close that there is but just room to pass between them The Manuscripts stand distinct from the printed Books according to their Languages being divided into six Classes Theological Juridical Medical Philosophical Historical Philological There can scarce be a more admirable Collection than the Manuscripts in part of the first Chamber of Hebrew Syriack Arabick Turkish Armenian Aethiopick and Chinese Books It was begun at least the Books began to be placed in this receptacle by Maximilian the First but hath been much encreased by succeeding Emperors most of them since Rodolphus the First being much addicted unto Learning there having been large accessions from many noble Libraries and most upon the cost of the Emperors The choicest Books in the famous Library of Buda of King Matthias Corvinus Son unto Huniades are now in it The notable Library of Wolfgangus Lazius who was Library-Keeper was brought hither and Three thousand Books of Johannes Sambucus are now in this Repository Augerius Bushequius sometime Library-Keeper hereof added much unto it and in his two Turkish Embassies procured a great number of noble Greek Manuscripts at Constantinople which are inscribed with his own hand Aug. de Busbeck emit Constantinopoli A great many were added from the Library of the Learned Johannes Cuspinianus Library Keeper and Councellor unto the Emperor The notable Libraries and Mathematical Instruments of Tycho Brahe Kepler and Gassendus were purchased for it But the largest accession was made by the noble Library of Count Fugger which consisting of sixteen thousand Volumes was purchased by Ferdinand the Third Many were brought some few years past from the Ambrasian Library by Inspruck by the Learned Petrus Lambecius Library-keeper Historiographer and Councellor unto the present Emperor who hath also an excellent Library which is like to be added unto the Imperial He then reckoned the Volumes in this great Library to amount at least to Fourscore thousand and by this time that number may be increased for he adds some yearly And the number might almost be endless if they would make use of their privilege for the Emperor ● at h a right to have two Books of all that are printed in Germany They have also a great advantage at Vienna to acquire good Manuscripts from the Turkish Dominions for the Emperor is obliged to have a Resident with the Grand Sei●nior wheresoever he moves or orders him to be even at the last fight of St. Godart the Emperor 's Resident was in the Turkish Camp And when I was at Larissa in Thessaly the Resident Signor de Casa Nova was inquisitive after Books to be found among the Greeks in Monasteries and other places And this Emperor like his Father will spare no cost toward such Acquiries By the especial favour of my noble Friend Lambecius I went many times into this Library and he was so courteous as to let me have what Books I desired unto my private Lodging He would shew me divers Books upon what Subject I required and offered me a sight of what Books he thought rare and estimable and amongst others I could not but take notice of these following A Letter of the present Emperor of China in the Chinese and Tartarian Languages unto the present Emperor of Germany weaved in a very fine Roll. Another old Roll written in unknown Letters yet a little resembling the Greek A Book in the Runick Language A very fair Manuscript of Ptolomy with the Maps drawn in Colours The oldest Manuscript and true Exemplar of Livy in large Letters without distinction of Words or Sentences very uneasie to be read a thousand years old and brought not many years since from the Library near Inspruck An old fair Greek Manuscript of Dioscorides written eleven hundred years since in very large Letters without distance of Words or Accents wherein all the Plants are lively painted also the Pictures of Dioscorides Galen Pamphilus Cratevas and other ancient Physicians bought of a Jew at Constantinople for an hundred Ducats by Busbequius A Book of Geometrical Propositions demonstrated in the China Language Another fair one in the China Tongue with Pictures A noble old Greek Manuscript in great uncial Letters without stops points or distance of words An ancient Greek Manuscript of the Book of Genesis in large Letters without distance or accents thirteen hundred years ago wherein are Forty eight Pictures or Draughts in Miniature or Water-colours much conducing to the knowledge of ancient Habits the manner of Feasting postures at Meals waiting of Servants and Musical Instruments Wherein I could not but take notice of the Golden Spot upon Joseph's breast and the manner of the Execution of Pharaoh's Baker his head being put through a forked piece of wood and his Hands tyed behind him A fair Book of Albert Durer wherein are many fine Paintings in Miniature or Limning as also a Sphere and within it a Globe carved and painted by him A fair Book of Michael Angelo wherein besides many rare things in Architecture are all the paintings and designs of the Belvedere in little A fair Alcoran in Arabick interlined with the Turkish to explain it The Bible in the Coptick and Persian Languages Luther's own Bible marked with his own Hand and interlined by him with Notes in many places A fair Greek Manuscript of the New Testament fifteen hundred years ago written in Letters of Gold upon Purple There was also a Magical Glass obtained by the Emperor Rodolphus whereby to see Appariti●ns and converse with Spirits which some conceive to be the same or of the like nature with that used by Kelly Of ancient Greek Roman and Gothick Medals and Coyns in Gold Silver and Copper to the number of sixteen thousand Among the Copper Coyns they pretend to have two of the Emperor Marcus Otho I let fall some Drops into this Ocean adding some Coyns Intaglia's and Inscriptions not to be found in that large work of Gruterus which having found in the Emperors further Dominions and Turkish parts long out of his possession where there had been no great enquiry after them were shewed unto his Imperial Majesty by Petrus Lambecius and so well accepted by him that he said I might have the use of what Books

and particularly because the famous Hippocrates the Father of Physicians lived and practised here as may be collected from the Oration of his Son Thessalus and the Narration of his Life by Soranus annexed to his Works wherein it is delivered That he lived in Thessaly and was warned by a Dream to abide in that Country That the Princes and Rulers of the Barbarous Nations about Illyria and Paeonia sent hither to him as also the King of Macedonia That he dyed in or about Larissa That he was buried between Larissa and Gyrton and it may be observed in the Epidemies or Books of Hippocrates wherein he sets down the Particulars of the Diseases of his Patients together with their Names and Places of Habitation That a great number of his Patients were of the City of Larissa Many famous Battles have been fought in the Plains of Thessaly and a greater than any there might have been if the Graecians had accepted of the Challenge of Mardonius the Persian General when he sent unto them to come out of their fast Places and fight with them in Thessaly where there were Plains and open Places enough wherein to show their Valour The Thessalians are an handsom race of People having black Hair black Eyes and their Faces of a fresh and florid sanguine much like our fresh Complexions in England so that Strangers much admired the Women and spoke often of the bel sangue de' Greci or fair blood of the Graecians The Macedonians who live in hilly Countries are of a coarser Complexion and the Moreans or Peloponnesians who live more South-ward incline unto a swarthiness They have always had the name of good Horse-men and the Country still abounds in good Horses They have also great Buffalo's esteemed the largest in Greece except those of Santa Maura in Epyrus There are also large and well-coloured Tortoises of a fine yellow and black and esteemed very good meat But the Turks laughed at the Christians for feeding on such Food where they might have Mutton Pullets and Partridges The Country produces very large fair and delicious Figs Water-melons the largest and most pleasant I have tasted which were very refreshing unto us as also fair and delicate Pomegranates Orainges Limons and Citrons Vines which are low like those about Montpellier and not supported but the Branches and Clusters great and the Grapes as big as good Damasens and of a delicious taste The Wine of the Country is rich but much thereof hath a resinous taste or tang of the Boracho They plant Tabaco and esteem it better than what is brought from other Parts as being more strong and pungent The Fields are spread with Sesamum and Cotton Trees but the Trees grow low yet make a fair show The Country abounds in Almonds and Olives and the Greeks delight most in the ripe Olive pickled as we in the green The Gourdes in the Hedges with their large yellow Flowers and the many sorts of green Thorns and ever-green Oaks make the ways pleasant The Ilex coccifera and Chermes-berry or the Excretion serving for dying and making the Confection of Alchermes grows plentifully in these Countries and with this Aegeus in old Time tinged the Sails which he presented to Theseus upon his Voyage to Crete ordering him if he overcame the Minotaure and returned fortunately to make use of these Sails beautifully coloured in token of Victory Upon the high Hills grow Asclepias and Helleborus in the stony Plains Carduas globosus Cystus Lavender Marjoram Rosemary and other sweet smelling Plants The Platanus or Plain-tree grows most sair large and well spread in Macedonia affording a refreshing shade so that it is less to be wondred at that Hippocrates found Democritus sitting under a Plain-tree at Abdera in Macedonia Some of the seeds and tusts I brought with me into England They use much Garlick in most of their Dishes and their Onions are extraordinary as large as two or three fair ones with us and of a far better taste being sharp quick and pleasantly pungent and without any offensive smell Though I were no lover of Onions before yet I found these exceeding pleasant and comfortable to the Stomach They are used at most Collations and eaten with B●ead in good quantity I asked a Chiaus then with us who had travelled through most of the Turkish Dominions whether he had any where met with so good Onions as these of Thessaly who answered me that the Onions of Aegypt were better which was the first time I sensibly understood the expression in Scripture and ceased to wonder why the Israelites lingred after the Onions of that Country They have a Fruit which they call Patlejan or Melanzan between a Melon and a Cucumber out of which they make a very pleasant Dish by taking out the middle or seeds of it and filling it up with the meat of Sawsages and then pare it and boyl it Of the Agents of foreign Countries there attended on the Grand Seignior the Resident of the Emperor of Germany the Ambassador of Ragusi and another of Wallachia which are Ambassadors of the Confines the Ambassadors for Trade residing about Constantinople and not obliged to keep close unto the Sultan Larissa being full and pestered with People the Emperor 's Resident desired of the Sultan leave to abide in some Neighbour Town who bade him to make choice of any Place or any House he liked which concession moved him to cast his Eye upon Tornovo a large and pleasant City of Thessaly about ten Miles West-ward from Larissa and seated near the Hills where most of the Inhabitants are Christians there being only three Moschea's but eighteen Churches of the Greeks whereof the chiefst which I observed were these the Cathedral Church of St. John the Church of St. Demetrius of Cosmus and Damianus of the Nativity of the blessed Virgin of St. Elias this is the Habit of their Monks where there is also an adjoyning Monastery seated on the side of the Hill of St. Anastasius of the twelve Apostles of St. Nicholas with a Convent also and of St. Anthony the Hermite The Bishop hereof is under the Arch-bishop of Larissa A Greecian Monke pag 42 A Greek monastary at Alessone p. 66 The monastary of St Elias by Tornodo And I could not but take notice how these Eastern Parts of Europe abounded with Christians of the Greek Church beyond my expectation and since they are thus to be found in many large Countries In Graecia and the Greek Islands in the Turkish Parts of Dalmatia and Croatia in Rascia Bosnia Servia Thracia Sagora Bulgaria Sirfia Bessarabia Cossackia Podolia Moldavia and Wallachia and the vast Dominions of the Emperor of Russia they must needs make a notable part of Christendom and put me more sensibly in mind of an Expression of a learned Writer If we should collect and put together all the Christian Regions in Europe which are of the Greek Communion and compare them with the Parts professing the Roman Religion in

to conduct us and that no man could or ought to stop him whereupon the Cadih said the Chiaus must not be hindred in his journey nor the Post-master be unconsidered and so presently called for the Post-masters Book and with his pen made of a reed set down a Sultanine to be allowed him in his accounts to the Tefterdar and bade us good morrow and wished us a good journey In the European Turkish Dominions which I passed I could not but take notice of the great number of Christians for excepting great Cities or where the Souldiery reside they are generally all Christians whereof the great body is of the Greek Church who live patiently under the Turkish toleration If there should happen any considerable commotion among the Turkish powers it is highly probable they would sit still and be little active and if any Forces of the Latine Church should attempt the Conquests of these parts in all probability they would find very little assistance from them and I fear they would rather adhere unto their Turkish Masters Though Augustus thought it a point of wisdom to put some limit unto the Roman Empire yet I do not find the Turks are of his judgment but still endeavour to enlarge their Dominions and when I consider that people their hardy education sober course of life and obedience to their Superiors that no Bassa can easily intend a revolt but some others will discover him in hope to obtain his place or some great preferment and that they so punctually observe the duty of their Charges I am apt to think or fear if he who puts bounds to the Sea and saith hither thou shalt come and no further doth not out of his great mer●y put a stop to their further incursions they may probably obtain and conserve a far larger Empire and even all Europe unto the Western Ocean Certain it is that they are unsatisfied with their present bounds and look beyond Hungaria and I have heard them say we must in due time come to Beatch for so they call Vienna and try our fortunes again At this day the Star and Half-moon are above the Cross upon the Steeple of the Cathedral Church of St. Stephen in the Emperor of Germany his Imperial City of Vienna and it grieved me to see in all the Con●ines a sort of Cross which our Heralds do not dream of which is a Cross Lunated after this manner whereby the Inhabitants as they testifie their Christianity so they acknowledge the Turkish power A Cross with Half-moons set over the Churches in the Country which payeth contribution to the Turks in Hungary The Star and Half-moon upon the Steeple of St. Stephen's Church at Vienna Le●pold stadt pag●● A JOURNEY FROM KOMARA OR GOMORA TO THE MINE-TOVVNS IN HUNGARY AND FROM THENCE TO VIENNA BEING at Komara and having satisfied my curiosity as far that way as the Christian Dominions extended I pursued my intention of seeilng the Copper Silver and Gold Mines in Hungary and being unwilling to return again to Presburg so far about to get into the road towards them I attempted a nearer passage although there be few who go that way And therefore I travelled along the North shoar of the Island of Schut till I came to the Confluence of the River Waag and Danube and then passed over to a Fortification raised since the last War called Gutta it lies in a Marish ground between a branch of the Danube the Waag and the Swartz within a mile of Newheusel which we plainly saw from the Steeple of the Church at Gutta and could distinguish the buildings within it as the Bassa's Pala●e formerly belonging to the Arch Bishop of Presburg The Church in the middle of the Town the Tower to the Moske and others But this nearness to Newheusel proved not only dangerous but destructive to it in the beginning of the year 1685. after that the Turks had sent great Recruits from Buda ●or the Count of Zabor having burnt the Suburbs of Newheusel and taken several Prisoners the Turks to revenge it made an excursion and burnt the Town of Gutta and put all the Inhabitants to the Sword Their Boats here are of one piece of wood in which notwithstanding they venture themselves and pass the greatest Rivers with them in this Fort were 130 men commanded by Captain Matthias Fruhwurdt From hence by Forchatz we came to Schella where there is another Fort built to hinder the Turks from passing the River Waag for hereabouts th● Tartars broke over burned and ruined the whole Country about in the late war in such manner that it remains still desolate at half a miles distance from this place is a hole in the Earth which burns like Solfaterra by Naples From hence we went to Schinta a large Fort and built long since to command the River and the Country about There is a Tower in the middle four Bastions and many good pieces of Cannon At the entrance there hanges a great Rib a Thigh-bone and a Tooth which I judged to be of an Elephant having seen the Skeleton of one and also such bones as these hang up before the Emperor's House at Laxambourg those bearing the name of the bones of a great Heathen Virgin and these of a Gyant We came afterwards to Leopolstadt a noble regular Fortification with six Bastions where the Young Count de Souches commanded to whom I delivered Letters and received many favours from him Afterwards I passed the River and came to Freistat a large sair Town but lately burned by the Turk Count Forchatz hath a handsome Castle here and a large House in the Town whereof I took the draught The Lutherans had also a School or College here but ruined with the rest of the Buildings They are Tributaries to the Turk paying yearly eight Hungarische almost four pence of our money for every head whether of Man Woman Children Sheep Oxen or Horses The Children are educated to hardship and the Women seldom marry twice They bathe much and use sweating naked in Stoves holding their feet in warm water They use Cupping-glasses also very much and scarifications In the Convent of the Franciscans were onely twelve Friars left and the Roman Christians in these parts have few other Priests but Monks Two Hungarian miles from Friestat lies Banca where in a low ground near the River are fifteen Baths into three of which the River-water is now entred the River Waag continually wearing out its banks by reason of its rapid course Twenty years since there were also hot Baths on the other side of the River but are now covered with the cold stream These Baths leave a white sediment in all places and tinge Copper and Silver immediately as black as Ink Hard by these Baths is a Quarry of Stone and some Veins of Chalk which were very pleasing to behold the Chalk being of all colours except green and the colours so finely mixed as a painting or marble Paper doth not equal it We being

have been made by Earth-quakes but it is more probable that this hath been from all Antiquity and according to the best conjectures this is the Lugea Palus of Strabo and therefore more strange that the Ancients are silent in this remarkable account The nearest Sea unto this Lake is the Sinus Tergestinus and Sinus Flanaticus the Gulf of Trieste and the Gulf of Quevero And not many miles from hence are the Heads of divers considerable Rivers as that of Labach the Corcoras or Gurk the Colapis or Culp which run into the Savus The Vipao or amnis frigdus which runs into Lysonso by Goritia and divers more but whither these Rivers arise where the Lake falls I could not learn The Ground not far from this Lake is very hollow and full of Caverns and I observed many Caverns and deep holes in other parts of Carniola somewhat like unto Elden hole in Darbyshire and I was informed by the most considerable persons at Zirchnitz that the Prince of Eckenberg had the curiosity to go into one of them and came out again upon the side of an Hill I was upon consideration whether I should go from hence unto Tergestum now Trieste a Port-Town of the Emperor 's in the Adriatick-Sea and then by Ship to Venice but having been in many Mines before I had a desire also to see the famous Quick silver Mine at Idria in the County of Goritia and parting from Zirchnitz I passed by Lovecq and travelled over Mountainous parts till I came to Idria which is encompassed with Hills on all sides and a River of the same name runs by it which although Leandro Alberti terms superbissimo fiume d'Idria yet I found it small and shallow at the time when I was there upon plentiful rains howsoever it proves sufficient to convey down the Firr-trees and other wood required in the building of the Mines and also for fuel necessary in the service of them and to this end there is an handsome work of Piles made slopeing a-thwart the River after the same manner as I observed at Newsol in upper Hungary cross the River Gran to stop the Trees which are cut down and cast into the River above this place What is chiefly considerable in this Town are the Quick-silver Mines very well known to the neighbouring parts and exceeding useful to many at greater distance The entrance into these Mines is not high or upon an Hill but in the Town it self whereby they are somewhat the more troubled with water against which they are provided with many excellent Engines and Devices as at other deep Mines the deepest part of the Mine from the entrance is between one hundred and twenty and one hundred and thirty fathoms Of the Quick-silver of this Mine they have two sorts the one called Jungfraw that is virgin Quick-silver the other plain Quick-silver virgin Mercury they call that which discovers it self without the help of fire and is either plainly to be seen in the Earth or Ore or falls down in little drops in the Mine and sometimes streams out in good quantity as about seven years ago it ran out of the Earth at first in a stream as small as a thred and afterwards as big as a Pack-thred but ceas'd in three or four days That also is accounted virgin Quick-silver which having no need to pass the fire is separated by water first in a Sieve and afterwards in a long Trough having very small holes at one end so that there is in a manner two sorts of Virgin Mercury the one running out and discovering it self without labour the other requiring some way of extraction and separation though not so high an one as by fire Plain Quick-silver they name that which is not at first perceived by the eye or falls from the Ore but is forced out by fire and this they obtain out of the Ore or out of the natural Cinnabar of Mercury which they dig out of this Mine The Ore is of a dark colour mixed with red but the best is a hard Stone which they commit not presently to the fire but powder it grosly and work it by the sieve that so if any Virgin Quick-silver be found in it it may be separated in this manner and what doth not pass the sieve may be separated by fire in Iron Furnaces fifty of them in a fire The Quick-silver-Ore of this Mine is the richest of all Ores I have yet seen for ordinarily it contains in it half Quick-silver and in two parts of Ore one part of Quick-silver and sometimes in three parts of Ore two parts of Quick-silver I went into the Mine by the Pit of St. Agatha and came up again by that of St. Barbara descending and ascending by Ladders I ascended at one of six hundred and thirty nine staves or eighty nine fathoms Siserus in K●rcher's Mundus subterraneus makes such a dreadful description of this Mine that it might discourage any from attempting the descent which makes me doubt whether he had been in any other Mine especially where the descent is made by Ladders In a Laboratory where the Quick-silver is separated by fire I saw an heap of sixteen thousand retorts of Iron every one of which costs a Crown at the best hand from the Iron Furnaces in Carinthia herein are also at one time eight hundred retorts and as many recipients employed together in drawing over the Quick-silver in sixteen Furnaces fifty in each Furnace twenty five of a side twelve above and thirteen below of each side June 12. 1669. When I was there they carried out forty saumes of Quick-silver into Foreign parts each saume containing three hundred and fifteen pound weight to the value of four thousand Ducats of Gold though the conveyance be not easie for it is carried upon Horses backs two small Barrels upon each Horse yet some is sent as far as Chremnitz in Hungary for the use of the Gold Mine and some into Sweden and other remote parts In the Castle I saw three thousand saumes of Quick-silver together in Barrels the Quick-silver being first made up in double Leather and in another House as much rich Ore as can be destilled in two years except they have great plenty of rain to bring down the wood but the Hills being high about them it snows at the tops of them oftner than it rains Those Strangers who come into the Castle of Idria have their names set down in a register-Register-Book with the Country of which they are Natives and the Catalogue is large but of English men there are few of late years onely Mr. Evelyn and Dr. Pope with their Company of whose observations there is an handsome account in the Philosophical Transactions some time since This place is the more grateful to Strangers in respect that it being a Frontier Town and bordering upon divers Nations many Languages are understood here and I observed that there were five spoken freely by the Officers and better sort of People besides French which

Main to difference it from Franckford upon the River Oder which is an University It is a large Town divided into two parts by the River the lesser called Saxonhausen or Saxon-houses united to the other by a Stone-bridge over the Main of twelve or thirteen Arches It is a place of good Trade and well seated for it as having the advantage of the River Main which passes by Bamberg Schweinfurt Wurtzburg Guemund or Gaudia mundi and also the Tauber and other Rivers running into it affords conveniency for Commerce with the remoter parts of Franconia and the Main running into the Rhine makes a large communication both up and down that Stream But this place is most remarkable for the Election of the Emperor which by the Laws of the G lden Bull should be in this City as also for two great Marts or Fairs kept in March and September at which times there is an extraordinary concourse of people from remote parts in order to buying and selling of several Commodities especially for Books as well printed here as in other parts whereof they afford two Catalogues every year and have no small dealings that way by the Factors of the Germans Hollanders Italians French and English although at other times their trading in Books seems not great for when I was there out of the time of the Mart the Stationers Shops being shut up made but a dull show Here are also a great number of good Horses bought and sold and on the North-side of the City there is a spacious place for a Horse-Fair The City is strong and well fortified and most part of the Town are Lutherans In the German Wars the King of Sweden having taken Hanaw sent a Messenger to Franckfort to know whether the City would peaceably and speedily set open their Gates unto him and accept fairly of a Garrison or stand to the hazard of a Siege And although they were unwilling to yield yet for fear of the worst they consented That the King should have free passage for his Army through the City and that for the better assurance of it six hundred of his men should be received for a Garrison into Saxonhausen and also that the Magistrates and People should take an Oath unto his Majesty So that upon the 17 th of November 1631. the King's Army passed through Saxonhausen over the Bridge quite through the Town Colonel Vitzthumb was left Governour in Saxonhausen and the King himself rode bare headed through the Streets and by his obliging behaviour did generally win the affections of the beholders and three days after returned thither again with the Landtgrave of Hessen-Cassell and the Landtgrave of Hessen-Darmstadt where they met the Seventeen Earls of the Wetteraw or Veteravia and were feasted in the same room where the Emperors at their Coronation use to be entertained In Saxonhausen there is a House anciently belonging unto the Knights of the Teutonick Order which hath the privilege of a Sanctuary for Man-slayers and Bankrupts but it is a security but for fourteen days Upon this side th●re is the largest portion of Land belonging to Franckfort on the other side very little This being a trading place it is no wonder that there are so many Jews in it for a distinction they wear great Ruffs their Sons Bonnets and their Wives a peculiar dress of their Head The Collegiate Church of St. Bartholomew where many of the Emperors have been crowned is large hath a high Steeple and is built of a red stone There are divers handsome Fountains in the Town and good Houses in one of the best of which live Monsieur Pierre Neufville a great Merchant and a civil worthy person well known in most places of Commerce who obliged me with Letters to Venice and other places From Franckfort I continued my Journey through the Bergstraes passing by Darmstadt which belongs to one of the Brothers of the House of Hessen commonly known by the name of the Landtgrave of Hessen Darmstadt and afterwards through a fruitful plain Country in the sight of Hills and sometimes near them the whole Country planted with Walnut-trees Vines Corn and in some places with Tabaco till I arrived at Heidellerg In coming into this Town we passed over the River Neccar Nicer or Necarus upon a Bridge covered over from one end to another with a large Roof of Wood in the same manner is the long Bridge covered at the entrance of the City of Alessandria della paglia in Italy The River Neccar arises near the Sylva Martiana now Swartzwald or Black Forest and passing through the Territories of the Duke of Wittenberg runs into the Rhine at Manheim This though none of the greatest yet is a considerable River of Germany and hath divers good Towns upon it and near it as Sultz Tubingen Wirtingen Essingen Stutgard Canstat Lauffen Hallbrun Heidelberg There being Wars at that time when I was in this Country between the Elector Palatine and the Duke of Lorrain The Elector resided for the most part at Frankendale to be near his Forces Heidelberg is seated on the South-side of the River Neccar between it and a ridge of high Hills so as it cannot well admit of a modern Fortification or hope to be extraordinary strong as being over-looked by the adjacent Mountains It lies most at length from East to West It hath been an University since the year 134● at which time it was begun by Rupertus Count Palatine and at present is much frequented In the great Church was kept the famous Library which after that the Spaniards had taken this Town 1620. was carried to Rome and added to the Vatican where I saw it in the year 1664. being placed upon one side of a very long Gallery belonging to the Vatican Library and the Duke of Vrbin's Library placed on the otherside over against it both which made a notable addition to the Papal Library In this Church and the Church also of St. Peter are divers Monuments of Princes of the Palatine Family and of Learned and Famous Men. The French have a Church here and the present Elector is of the Order of the Holy-Ghost and his Son a Mareschal of France and good French and High-dutch are both generally spoken here The Lutherans have also a Church in this Town by the favour of the present Elector although he himself be a Calvinist and to express his generous kindness the higher in this point the first Stone was laid by himself and his Son and it is called the Church of Providence according to the Elector's Motto Dominus Providebit Upon the Town-house is a Clock with divers Motions and when the Clock strikes the figure of an Old man pulls off his hat a Cock crows and shakes his wings Souldiers fight with one another and the like The Prince's Stables for above a hundred Horses are seated upon the River very conveniently but were fairer formerly above half thereof having been ruined by the Imperalists as also

part of the Hercinian Forest The Bohemians are a strong stout and hardy People make good Souldiers and have made wars both at home and abroad and Histories are full of their warlike Exploits The chief Magazine of the King is at Egra a strong City accounted the Second of Bohemia The Country affords also lusty and strong Horses The common sort of People are boysterous rough and quarrelsome especially in drink whereto they are too much addicted The Nobility and Gentry are civil and kind unto Strangers There are many great Families of t●e Nobility among which that of Rosenberg and Popel is ancient and of high esteem Since the unhappy accepting of the Crown by Frederick Count Palatine and the ill success upon it there hath been a great alteration in this Country both as to People and their Manners for thereupon many thousands left the Kingdom and many who remained turned their Religion And the Emperors have used the like severity upon others in their Hereditary Dominions The next considerable place we came unto was Dresden in Misnia as well worth the seeing as almost any Town in Germany Dresden is the S●at and Residence of the Elector of Saxony seated upon the River Elbe over which there is a very noble Stone-bridge of Seventeen Arches The City is very well fortified after the Modern way the Bastions covered or lined with Brick and in each Bastion a Cavallier It hath also a large Trench or Ditch about it in some places double and the River Elbe adds unto its strength The Walls are very strong and they say that when the first Stone was laid to build them there was placed in the Earth a Silver Cup gilded a Book of the Laws and another of Coyns and three Glasses filled with Wine It hath also three Gates The places most worth the seeing are these The Italian Garden in the Suburbs the Hunters House in the old Town beyond the River the Electors Palace his House for wild Beasts his Stable-house and Arsenal of which I shall set down some things observable in their kind In the Electors Palace the Hall is very large and handsomly painted with Cities Gyants and the Habits of several Nations and set out with seven large branched Candlesticks But that which affords the greatest delight is his Kunstkammer Art-Chamber or Collection of Rareties both of Art and Nature In the first Partition are to be seen all manner of well made Instruments belonging to most Trades as Joyners Turners Barbers Smiths Chirurgeons and other Artificers Instruments to force open Doors Chests c. In the other Chambers these and the like are observable A Tube-glass four Ells long A large blew Turkish-glass Variety of Coral and artificial Works of it Fowls made out of Mother of Pearl Drinking Cups in the shape of Dragons Elephants c. Castles of Gold and Mother of Pearl Many Fowls and Cups made out of Nautili and other Shells and out of Oestrich-eggs A fine Oestrich made out of its Egg with the Feathers of Gold A Cup made out of the Ball taken out of an Oxes Stomach richly set about a foot long A Stone as big as my fist like a Bezoar-stone taken out of a Horse A Purse made out of the Linum Incombustible Silver Ore from the Mines of Freiberg almost pure in strings and shoots A Natural Cross of Silver Ore One hundred and twenty one Heads carved on the outside of a Cherry-stone A Religious Man or Friar of Japan carved in Box. A Chrystal Cabinet sold by Oliver Cromwell wherein is kept a Ring which hath Stones in it in the shape of a Castle His Majesty King Charles the Second on Horse-back carved out of Iron A Head of King Charles the First A Glass Organ Topazes unpolished ten Inches in Diameter A Cup out of a Topaze Emeralds an inch in Diameter as they grow in the Rock resembling the Vitrio●um Nativum as I saw it in Paradise-hill by Schemnitz in Hungary Stones named Thunder-stones smelling of Fire Rocks made out of all sorts of Ore and the names of the places written upon them from whence they were digged The Figures of Fishes in Stones out of Mansfield the Stones are dark-coloured but the Fishes of a Gold or Copper colour All sorts of Stones which are to be found about Saxony and Misnia polished Two large pieces of pure Virgin Gold out of the Mine A Cabinet of all sorts of Apothecaries Instruments and chief Druggs A Hart with a Cabinet made in his side containing all Medicines taken from a Hart. A white Hart as big as the Life made out of the shavings and filings of Harts-horn and looking like Plaister Figures printed in Trees A Spur in part of a Tree Horns in Trees A Chamber of all manner of Mathematical Instruments and Charts A good Library of Mathematical Books An Vnicorns-horn which they will have to be of a Land Vnicorn being neither wreathed nor hollow A Dart of Vnicorns-horn Among the Pictures in the same Chambers these seemed remarkable A Picture by Colier of the Siege of Jerusalem with great number of Figures and highly esteemed Four Heads of the Elements made out of the Creatures which belong to them in Caricatura A painting of Merchants Letters stuck behind green Tap● A Storm by Rubens Two Nuns by Lucas van Leyden A Picture of Dr. Luther in the Cloyster in his Gown and after his Death There is also great variety of excellent Clockwork and an attempt for a perpetual motion by a rowling bullet A Cuckow sings by Clockwork a Horseman rids a Ship sails an old Woman walks a Centaur runs and shoots a Crab creeps upon a Table so well as to amaze and delight but among all the Crab seems to be most naturally imitated In the Stable-house besides the extraordinary noble Stable of Horses wherein every Horse eats out of a Rack of Iron and Manger of Copper and on a Pillar by him his Comb Bridle and Saddle and other Necessaries hang besides a handsome Window with a Curtain before him There are observable a very fair Fountain and pond set about with handsome Ballisters where the Horses are watered A long walk arched and painted with Horses over which is a Gallery with the Pictures of all the Dukes and Electors of Saxony both in their Military and Electoral Habits Two Beds of Marble Drinking Cups which seem not great yet so co●trived as to hold divers quarts A Spring which causes a Horseman in Silver to come riding in bringing a Cup of Wine in his hand A pair of noble Pistols with all the Stories of the New and Old Testament upon them A Glass Gun A Gun which shoots off Forty times without charging again A Piece which shews the manner of the first invention of striking Fire in Guns A Lock without a cock A Chamber of rich Sleds for Horses made use of in Jollity and pompous Courses upon the Snow A white Bears skin stuffed Tigers and Lyons Skins A Cassowares Skin Good Armour for

I desired and at my return into England he gave me a formal Pass in Latin for my safe Travel and that my Trunks or Goods might not be searched which takes off a great deal of trouble in passing so many Principalites and free Cities Commanding all in his own Dominions and Requesting all Princes in Germany to favour me and permit me to pass freely without molestation It was thus Subscribed Leopoldus Leopoldus Gulielmus Comes in Kinigseggs Ad mandatum Sacr. Caes Majestatis proprium Beüer In the first Cupboard or Case were many noble Vessels turned and shaped out of Ivory a Cup turned by the Emperors own Hand another turned by Ferdinandus the Third Gallant Cups of Amber Spoons and Vessels of Mother of Pearl many noble works in Coral a fine Galley in Ivory and Cups made out of Rhinocerot's horn in the second An Elephant of Ivory with a Castle upon his back and over the Castle a Ship with much other fine work in the same piece Two fair Pillars of Ivory good Basso Relievo in Ivory a fair Cranium or Deaths-head and much other variety of Ivory work A Picture in Oyl of Ganymede by Corregio In the third A fine Picture of an old Man's head in Oyl by Albert Durer great Variety of Watches and Clock-work in Silver a fine Centaur in Silver which is a curious Watch. In the fourth More Watches and Clock-work a gallant Ship of Silver a Triumphal Chariot a Turk riding and attended a Globe and a Sphere in Silver a curious Landskip in Oyl by Corregio a Cupid by the same hand with a fine Copy of it In the fifth A curious Filegrane Handkerchief and two fair Filegrane Plates brought out of Spain by the Empress Margarita an Indian Basket of an Indian sort of Filegrane mixed with Birds a Bason of Agate finely wrought with silver Craw-fishes in it In the sixth Is contained a strange Collection of Intaglie and old Roman Stones admirable for their work and largeness A large Agate whereon is wrought the History of that Victory which Augustus Caesar obtained over the Dalmatians and Pannonians in the ninth year of our Lord about five inches long and four broad highly valued An exact Cut of which is here inserted An Onyx with the Head of Alexander and Olympia A Shell with a Battel carved in it A Chain with the Heads of all the Austrian Family A Dog in a very large Sardonyx In the seventh A noble Head in Oyl by Hans van Ach. The Head of Maximilianus the First in Plaister with a lock of his own Hair Mother of Pearl in many shapes Fine Baskets and the twelve Caesar's Heads In the eight most of Crystal A noble Vessel about a yard and half high made out of one piece of Crystal An Vrne The Head of the Empress A fair Dragon The Head of the Queen-Mother of France A Chrystal in which the Picture of our Saviour may be seen thrice one way and once another way The ninth of Crystal also A noble Ewer A fair Vessel of very clear Crystal lately bought A large Head Fair Crosses and other Varieties The tenth of Gold and precious Stones Five Crowns The Imperial Crown rich in Jewels and hath a very large blew Saphir on the top A Model of that Crown with which the Emperor is crowned much richer than the Original A Paragon Diamond of seventeen Carats and a half Very large Rubies A Scepter of Vnicorns horn set with rich Stones A Locket of the greatest Diamonds A magnificent Scepter Globe Cross and Crown which cost seven hundred thousand Crowns An Opal bigger than my hand as it was taken out of the Mine and many other fair Opals A very large Emerald A Ship in an Emerald A fair Ring-Dial The eleventh of Gold A noble Bason used at the Baptism of the Austrian Family Scepters Scimeters Knives and other rich Presents from the Turk Three rich Dog-Collar's sent by King Charles the Second with three Dogs out of England with this Mark on them OCOC A large lump of pure Gold as it was taken out of the Mine as broad as my hand A fair piece of Gold Ore wherein the pure Gold shooteth upon a white Stone Divers great Basons of Gold and Coral In the twelfth Vessels of Jaspis Agate Lapis Lazuli Oriental Granates Cups of Onyx Sardonyx Large ones of Lapis Nephriticus and a great one of an Amethyst In the thirteenth A large high Vessel of Bohemian Topaz Flowers well made out of precious Stones A Cup of an Hungarian Diamond A piece of Ambergriece as big as a mans head sent from the Grand Seignior A noble Jaspis-stone A large Stone of Agate on the outside and a bed of large Amethysts naturally in it in the middle which is an extraordinary and pleasant Rarely In the rest Noble Chrysolites Jacynths Crien'al Granates Beryls or Aquamarines The notable rich Smaragdus or Emerald or a Cup out of that Stone Three great ones having been already taken out valued at three hundred thousand Crowns A Picture in Oyl of the little King Vladisllaus Lokeli King of Hun ary Ten rich Turkish Saddles with Furnitures for Horses set with fair Turcois Stones A great number of Gold Vessels and fine Figures in Coral Turkish Knives Gauntlets and Table men of Gold Delicate Pictures in Wax Very large Bezoar stones Indian gold Cards and Counters A vast Medal of the Emperor's Arms weighing two thousand two hundred Ducats or a thousand pounds English A Cup out of Solomon's Temple Fair Amber Rare Inlaying in Wood. Bacchus and other Statua's out of a very high Rhinocerot's horn A fine Picture of the Mountain Vesuvius Jewels with black Feathers given by the Turkish Ambassadors A notable Picture of a lean Skeleton Priest who lived so four years A notable Cabinet-clock with large motions A fair Bason and Ewer of carved Ivory King Philip the Second of Spain in Diamond Armour set in Gold A neat Picture of an old Man courting a young Woman with this Motto Arctum Annulum nè gestáto A Knife swallowed by a Peasant near Prague which was nine months in his Stomach and safely cut out 1602. The like happened also to a person in Prussia of which Daniel Becker hath written a peculiar Tract under this Title De Cultrivoro Prussiaco A fair Crucifix of Pearl Indian Pictures made of Feathers The King of Adolphus's Buff-coat in which he was killed at the Battel of Tilly's Sword An Angel in Ivory with Hair and Clothes of Filegrane of Gold A neat Crucifix of Wood by Albertus Durer Two very large Looking-glasses with the Frames of Silver All the Gospels written and painted Many brave Statua's and Pictures every where The Haed of Charles the first King of England in white Marble A Ped stal of Amber over which a Cross The Head of St. Valerius Bishop of Triers The Picture of St. Catherine of Sienna drawn by Sigismund King of Poland A Picture of the Emperor as he gives Audience to be looked upon through a little