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A58159 A collection of curious travels & voyages in two tomes ... / by John Ray ... Ray, John, 1627-1705.; Rauwolf, Leonhard, ca. 1540-1596. Seer aanmerkelyke reysen na en door Syrien t́ Joodsche Land, Arabien, Mesopotamien, Babylonien, Assyrien, Armenien, &c. in t́ Jaar 1573 en vervolgens gedaan. English.; Staphorst, Nicolaus, 1679-1731.; Belon, Pierre, 1517?-1564. 1693 (1693) Wing R385; ESTC R17904 394,438 648

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Courage or no wherefore they oftentimes before they are aware of them assault the Christians with rough Words and if they find them to be affraid they laugh at them to boot but if they resist them they give over immediately as soon as they find them in earnest just like some Dogs that sooner bark then bite and esteem him afterwards the more for it and call them brave People that are fit for the War You find also in this Crowd several that are in Orders called Sacquatz which commonly are Pilgrims that have been at Mecha that go about with Skins full of Water and for Charity give to any nay even to the Christians that desire it because the Mahumetans are forbid to drink Wine in their Alcoran Wherefore you see many in their peculiar Habits moved thereunto by Devotion that go all day long among the People to exercise a Work of Love and Charity to those that are thirsty They have in one hand a fine gilded Cup whereinto they power the Water out of their Skins wherein they have commonly laid Chalcedonicks Jaspirs c. Sometimes also delicate tasted Fruit to keep the Water fresh and to recreate the People When they give you to Drink out of it they reach you also a Looking-glass with this Admonition That you shall look your self in it and remember that you are Mortal and must die For this Service they desire nothing of you but if you give them any thing they take it and thank you and spout into your Face and Beard to shew their thankfulness some fragrant Water which they have in Glasses in a great Pouch tip'd with many Brass Clasps The Turks and Arabians also esteem it to be a great Charity and Love if they let their Marble Troughs or great Pots that stand everywhere about their Doors be filled up with fresh Water every day that Travellers or any that are dry may quench their Thirst as they pass by in it hang little Kettles to drink out of If one goes to it others that see him go also and drink rather for Companies sake then to quench their Thirst So you find often a whole Multitude about a Pot. If you have a mind to eat something or to drink other Liquors there is commonly an open Shop near it where you sit down upon the Ground or Carpets and drink together Among the rest they have a very good Drink by them called Chaube Coffee that is almost as black as Ink and very good in illness chiefly that of the Stomach of this they drink in the Morning early in open places before every body without any fear or regard out of China Cups as hot as they can they put it often to their Lips but drink but little at a time and let it go round as they sit In this same Water they take a Fruit called Bunru which in its Bigness Shape and Colour is almost like unto a Bay-berry with two thin Shells surrounded which as they informed me are brought from the Indies but as these in themselves are and have within them two yellowish Grains in two distinct Cells and besides being they agree in their Virtue Figure Looks and Name with the Buncho of Avicen and Bancha of Rasis ad Almans exactly therefore I take them to be the same until I am better informed by the Learned This Liquor is very common among them wherefore there are a great many of them that sell it and others that sell the Berries everywhere in their Batzars They esteem it as highly as we do in our Country Wormwood Wine or that that is prepared with several Herbs and Drugs yet they love Wine better if their Law would allow them to drink it as we have seen in the Reign of the Emperour Selymo when he gave them leave to drink it that they met together daily in Drinking-houses and drunk to one another not only two or three Glasses of strong Wine not mixed with Water but four or five of such as came from Venice to them so quickly one after another with such eagerness as I have often seen it that they would not allow themselves to eat a Morcel or two between it and so as you may easily guess they become to be sordid presently and so Hoggish that they excel all other Nations in it But after Selymus was dead and his Son Amurath succeeded him in his right he immediately forbad them to drink Wine in the very beginning of his Reign and looked after it with such severity that any body that did but smell of Wine was Imprisoned immediately put out of his place and a great Fine put upon him according to his capacity or for want of it punished severely with many Blows under his Soals During this Prohibition it happened that when the Bashaw of Halepo had a mind to go abroad and met in the Court-yard one of his men that was Drunk and perceived it by his staggering he drew his Scimeter and cut off his Head and so left him dead upon the place But yet notwithstanding all this Severity and be it never so peremptorily forbid they do not only not mind such Prohibition chiefly the Renegadoes being very much used to it but long and linger the sooner after it with that eagerness that in the Summer time they use to carry in privately just like the Ants great quantities of Wine and lay up good Stores that they may meet at Night and drink together until they have their Bellies full and so rest after it all Night that they might not smell of Wine the next Day In that time when they were prohibited to drink Wine we Christians fared very well and bought our Wine very cheap until afterwards they had leave to drink it again Their Wines are generally red very good and pleasant they keep it in Skins they are brought to Halepo from several places but chiefly from a famous Town called Nisis which lieth two days Journey distant from it upon the Borders of Armenia The use of Skins is still very great with them as it was in former Ages as we may see by the similitude of Christ when in St. Matthew Chap. 9. Vers 17. he says No man put new wine into c. Seeing that the Christians have leave to drink Wine therefore they sell and buy most of it they also plant it and have whole Villages in their Possessions with abundance of Vineyards But the Turks not being allowed to drink Wine by their Laws do not keep or cultivate many Vineyards and if they do they press the Grapes after several ways for some they make into Cibebs chiefly these People that live in and about Damascus where indeed the best groweth others boyl the Juice of the Grapes up to the consistence of Honey which they call Pachmatz chiefly these that live at Andeb a Town between Bi r and Nisib They have two sorts of this rob one very thick and the other somewhat thinner the former is the best wherefore they put
therefore is also this Worldly Mount Zion together with its strong Building and Fortification which was rather a Type of the true Rock in Zion Christ our Lord and his Heavenly Kingdom and Holy Church that was built thereon so ruined and desolated that the greatest and highest part thereof before the Town except a Turkish Mosche some Tile Houses and a few Acres of it lieth quite like a Desart covered with Rocks and Stones So it is come to pass what Micah in his Third Chapter and the Twelfth Verse predicted Therefore shall Zion for your sake be plowed as a field and Jerusalem shall become heaps and the mountain of the house as the high places of the forest And Jeremiah in his Lamentations Cap. 5. Verse 18. saith The mountain of Zion which is desolate the foxes walk upon it And Isaiah in his Thirty second Chapter Verse 14. The Palaces shall be forsaken the multitude of the City shall be left the forts and towers shall be dens for ever a joy of wild asses a pasture of flocks The great Castle of the Turks is situated at the top of the inward part of the Mount towards the West Side near the Fishgate which is also newly built and very well surrounded with Walls and Ditches under the Gate are several great Guns to frighten the Christians that come thither in great Flocks chiefly against great Feasts from all Nations Armenians Georgians Abyssins Latinists c. for they fear that else the Town might be taken from them again Within the Fort near the Fishgate is still a strong high Tower built up with great Free-stone which is quite black through Age wherefore some say that it did anciently belong to the Fort and was built by one of the Kings of Juda. So much I thought convenient to mention of Mount Zion concerning other famous places that are to be seen upon and about it I will only mention the chiefest thereof First as you go out of the New Gate of Mount Zion there is a long Street wherein on the Left Hand is an ancient Church of the holy Apostle James the Greater Brother of John which Helena the Mother of Constantine the Emperor as also many more did build on the Market Place of the upper City where he was beheaded The Armenians that have possession thereof did conduct us into it shewed us the Building and the place where the holy Apostle was beheaded with the Sword as you read in the Acts of the Apostles the 12th Chapter by Order of Herod Agrippa to whom he was delivered out of spite as a seditious person by the High Priest Abiathar Then we came to the place of the Habitation of Hannas whereto Christ our Lord was first of all brought a prisoner and bound or fetter'd wherein was nothing observable only a large Court and in it an old Chapel called the Angels which we soon left and went out of the Gate of Mount Zion to the Habitation of Cayaphas where we saw an Orange-tree planted in the place where the holy Apostle Peter did warm himself when he denied our Saviour the third time further within a Chapel called St. Salvators where in former Ages was the Place of the High Priest where Christ was severely accused by Cayaphas and by his Servants mocked spit upon and beaten wherein is an Altar whereon the great Stone of the Grave still lieth that stopped the Door of the Sepulchre which is very like unto the Rock of the Grave in its breaking That the Habitation of the High Priest was in the upper City Josephus does testifie in the Seventeenth Chapter of his Second Book of the Desolation of Jerusalem where he saith thus When the rebellious Jews that had the lower Town in possession with the Temple did undertake to possess themselves also of the upper Town they did assault it with all might and power and at last take it then they drove out the Soldiers which had the Chief Priests and Men in power with them out of the upper Town set the Habitation of Ananias the High Priest on fire and burnt it Before this on the top of the Mount stands on the Plain a large Church which the Franciscan Monks had not long ago in possession and lived in it wherefore their Father did call himself a Guardian of the holy Mount Zion But after that the Turks did about Twenty years agon possess themselves of it and kept it to themselves and made a Mahumetan Mosche of it the Monks were forced to flie and take the Habitation where they now live instead thereof Of this Church or Mosche we saw only the outside of the Habitation of Caiaphas for no Christian is allowed to go into it It was built many years agon by Helena Mother of Constantin the Emperor as Nicephorus testifieth in the Thirtieth Chapter of his Eighth Book wherein is also included the Habitation the Disciples were locked up in for fear of the Jews and also the paved Dining-Room or Hall wherein Christ with his Disciples did eat the Passover where he also washed their Feet and sent the Holy Ghost after his Ascension to them where also James the Lesser was Elected Overseer and first Bishop of Jerusalem In this Temple which is above a thousand paces distant from Golgotha or the place of a Scull was for some time kept the Stone-Pillar whereto Christ our Lord and Saviour was tied and whipped Near unto this in the place of the Palace of Caiaphas the same Queen Helena ordered a Church to be built for the Holy Apostle Peter and many more whereof mention is made at large in the above quoted place This Mount extendeth its self towards the South out before the City and hath on the other side where it is highest other higher ones about it distinguished with Ditches and Valleys viz. towards the West Mount Gihon at the bottom whereof Solomon was anointed King by the Priest Zadock and the Prophet Nathan as we read in the First Chapter of thr First Book of Kings upon this at the top towards the Road of Bethlehem lieth the Field of Blood in their Language called Hakeldemas that was bought for 30 Silver Pieces to bury the Pilgrims there where you see still to this day here and there large and deep holes and one among the rest very big one wherein are still to be seen several whole Bodies lying by one another A deep Valley separates this Mount from Mount Zion which beginneth at the Fish-gate and goeth down to the Brook Cedron in it is a Conduit by the upper Pool called Asuia in the Third Chapter of Nehemiah which is pretty large yet without any Water which receiveth its Water from the high Spring of Gihon this was covered by King Hezekias and laid down to the Town of David as we read in the Second Book of Chronicles Chap. 32. The holy Prophet Isaiah Chap. 7. Verse 3. mentioneth it when she Lord said to him Go forth now to meet Ahaz thou and Shear-jashub
got towards Night upon the Balls to stand Centinel it being my turn so when I saw one with a Mug full of Water I desired him to give me some to drink which he was willing to do and reached me the Mug I going to take it trod by chance upon a Fiddle of one of the Turks and broke it Although he had had great occasion to be angry with me for this yet understanding that I had Giue enough to mend it he was presently quieted and well contented The next Morning we sat together and mended the Fiddle as well as we could when the Dervis saw us busy about the Fiddle he was very angry that we did not help to spread out the Merchandices which we had done already before we began so he took the Fiddle broke it and flung it into the River then he came back and pretended to bang us thinking to have the same Success with this as he had with the Wine But the Turk seeing this took up a good Cudgel that was thrown up by the River and struck him several times over his Head and Limbs that the Blood ran down his Ears and Face and at length he grew so angry that he went to draw his Scymeter but before he could we stept in between them got them asunder mitigated the business and appeased them So this Saint of theirs looked very dismal in his long and lank black Hair and had besides on his Body here and there several Scars viz. on his Head and Breast and above all upon his Arms which he had cut or burnt himself which is usual to that Order and other Turks to do which set often on their Flesh burning and red glowing Spangs or instead of them Linen Rags about an Inch thick twisted very hard together broad below and pointed on the top tapering just like unto a Pyramid which they set on Fire and let it burn out with a great deal of Patience upon their bare Skin so long until it is quite consumed and brought to Ashes then they tie it up with Cotton they also do the same sometimes in Rheums of the Head and Eyes c. to dry them up or to turn them and to draw them into another place So I have seen several which have had at least Twenty Scars about them but chiefly on their Arms whereof-some were of the bigness of a Shilling besides Wounds and Scratches they had But from whence they received this inhumane way to wound and torment themselves I do not know except they had it anciently from the Priests of Baal which used to wound themselves with Knives and Lances as we read in the 18th Chapter of the 3d of the Kings until the Blood followed These Holy Scars and Tokens of their Zeal I could soon see and observe on this Moor for according to his Order which is a very great one he was to wear no Cloths upon his Body neither Winter nor Summer only a little Scarf to cover his Privy Members withal Instead of them they put Sheep Skins about them whereon they lie also at Night and so they serve them for Cloaths Bed and Cover And so they pretend by their exteriour Apparel and Behaviour to great Vertue and Patience as if they were dead to the World and to a peculiar Holiness in praying fasting watching c. whereas they are full of Roguery and Knavery so that you shall hardly find any like them With this came also several other Religious Men of several Orders which were all in several distinct Habits as they are in our Country among them was a very strong well set young Man of the Order of the Geomaliers as they call it which are rather Secular than Clergy-men they are generally Tschelebys that is Gentlemen and rich Persons which take great delight in travelling in their young Days under pretence of Holiness like Pilgrims at other Peoples Costs through several Countries and Kingdoms to see and learn and to get Experience This had only a blue Coat on that covered his Body tied about with a Sash and Shooes of Sheeps Skins such as the Arabians in the Desarts use to wear There went along with us Two more whereof one had a great Ring in each Ear about the thickness of a Finger and so heavy that it stretched down his ear-laps to his very Shoulders These are of the Order called the Calendriers which lead a sober and abstemious Life before People wherefore they separate themselves from the People and walk about like Hermits into Desarts where-ever they can to pray there ardently and to cry out the hours whereof they have Five every Day as the Priests do from the Steeples wherefore this Man did separate himself as often as he had an Opportunity far from us that the Beasts could rather see and hear him than we that were in the Ship When he had done this he came to us again and looked so devoutly as if he had been in a Rapture or Ecstasie The other was a Dervis whereof I have made mention before which also kept to a very strict Order for he prayed devoutly and ardently chiefly at Night after Sun set at what time two or three more used to come to him and among them sometimes some of our Merchants they did stand together in a circle and so began to pray as I heard often first very lowly then by degrees louder but when they came to the Leila Hillalla c. they were so loud that you might hear them afar of and then they repeated only these Words very often and every time they repeated them they turned their Head from one side to the other as if they looked upon one another by turns to shew their great Love one to another so they repeat these words very often and every time quicker and quicker until they abbreviate them at last and say only Lahu Huhu By this pratling or jabbering and moving of their Heads they became at length so giddy and weary that the cold Sweat ran down them But this their Saint did not pronounce the words of their Prayers with the rest but struck on his Breast with his Fist upon his Heart which gave instead thereof so strange a Tune as if he had been hallow within much like unto the Noise that a Turky-Cock uses to make when he is very angry so that it would have frighted any Man chiefly if he had been alone with him and he would with his terrible Face rather have taken him to be an Apparition than a Man These above-mentioned Words he repeateth so often and so long until he fainteth away and falls down and there he lieth as if he were dead Then the others cover him let him lie and go their ways After he hath lain thus a good while as if he had been ravished in his Prayers or had seen a peculiar Vision he cometh to himself riseth and appeareth again All these Saints although they practise their Religion after a peculiar manner which according
a Voice spake to him from Heaven saying If thou chusest the Fatt with Wine thou and thy People shall perish if thou chusest the Fatt with Milk thou shalt also perish but if thou chusest the Fatt of Water thou and thy People shall be saved eternally These and many more insipid Lies of their Mahomet which are very ridiculous and silly Fables are believed to be as true as the Gospel by the Turks Moors and Arabians c. They also certainly believe chiefly these that live at Jerusalem as the Pilgrims know that on the last day their Mahomet is to come and seat himself on the Rock of the Temple of M●ria and Christ on the other side of the Valley of Josaphat on the Mount of Olives over against him Then when all the People of the Earth shall appear before the Lord of Judicature he shall ask Mahomet who the rest are meaning the Christians that have been under the Yoak of the Turkish Emperor then shall Mahomet answer and say They are these that have served me faithfully whereupon Christ shall let them pass into Paradise and eternal Felicity which they believe to consist in gratifying Fleshly Lusts and Desires in Eating and Drinking Fine Cloaths costly Jewels Gold Silver Pearls pleasant Spring-Gardens beautiful and cleanly Women Therefore the Temple is so highly esteemed by the Turks and others of the same Faith and believed to be so holy that they go into it on their bare Feet with great Devotion and come twice a year thither in Pilgrimage in great Caravans from all places moved thereunto by the great Zeal they have towards their Mahomet but chiefly these Pilgrims that have been at Madina-Talnabi and Mecha that is Three Days Journey farther who return by the way of Jerusalem which is now by them caled Chutz to say also their Prayers there and are of opinion that if they should do otherwise than to come thither their Peregrination would not be acceptable to God Amongst these are a good many Renegado Christians that go with them to Mecha to get by their Devotion into greater preferment and Wealth wherefore they are esteemed by them as holy and creditable ones altho they are full of Knavery and Roguery as these that come from Mahomets own Blood they keep them very honorably and pray for them as their Victors and endue them with great great and peculiar Privileges so that their single Witness is as valueable as three four six ten of others according as they have been oftener in these places And that every body may know them they put upon their Turbans on their Heads their Mahomet's green Colours as those of their Priests do which esteem themselves to be his Relations which are only permitted as the Persians wear their red Colour to wear such Turbants Wherefore the Turks believe it to be a sin to cover those Members which Nature hath made secret with that Colour which their Prophet did bear on his Head When the before-mentioned Renegado Christians are come to this degree they are bought by every Body for Money to bear witness before the Cady or any other Turkish Magistrate and that even in Causes whereof they have not the least knowledge So it happens daily that those that give larger Bribes to the Magistrate and do exceed their Adversaries in number of Witnesses make their lost and foul cause good and of this they make no Conscience because their Alcoran teacheth them that God doth not impute to them perjury but only if they do not invoke him so that it is full Satisfaction if they feed ten poor ones for this Transgression or if they cloath them or if they redeem one prisoner but if they are not substantial enough to do this they fast for it three times This is of a very ill consequence because they are not afraid to be Perjured and to cheat others And although these and other the like Sins are very common amongst the Turks Viz. Robbing and to break their Faith c. which are directly against God yet for all that these because they have lost all remembrance of Confession Penitence or mending of their Lives exceed them in this by far Besides all this they do not let the Christians know who or what they are but rather study to their utmost Power to abuse and hurt them as often as they find an opportunity nay they would not spare their very Lives if they dare do it for fear of the Turkish Magistrates In this they are very like unto the Abyssins which in former Ages were subject unto the Soldans of Aegypt and did live on the south side of Mount Libanus which as Defenders and Protectors of their own Religion were set out before other Saracens to Murder and Kill clandestinly all those that did oppose their Mahometan Laws and Religion But after the Turkish Emperor did beat the Soldan and took his Dominions from him the Fury of these Assassinators was also soon quelled For the Great Turk doth not allow in any of his Provinces of Murthers as the Saracens did but punisheth them severely and keepeth very strict Laws that no Body may hurt the other which you may Conclude by this that if one doth but fetch Blood from the other in the least he is not only mulcted in one or two Ducats but sometimes in Forty Fifty Nay sometimes in a Hundred according to the Hainousness of the Crime and the Ability of the Offender and so he keepeth his Subjects in Peace and Quietness Besides these Pilgrims that go to Mecha there are many others in their great Caravans that rather like unto Pedlers endeavour to get thither with small Charges by the help of their Carvatscharas or Inns and Hospitals to make good Profit there by Buying and Selling then out of Devotion to wait on their Mahomet and amongst them there are also sometimes Christians but at their Arrival they must not Visit the Holy Places much less touch them Wherefore they buy before hand all sorts of Merchandises chiefly at Cayro from whence to Jerusalem it's ten days Journey to sell or swap them at Mecha and other places Which custom we need not think to be strange among the Turks seeing that a great many are found among the Roman Pilgrims that pretend to be good Christians that go Pilgrimages to Rome St. Jacob Jerusalem c. not only to get his Holinesses Absolution and Indulgences but rather to make good● profit of Goods they buy for that purpose Or which is more they pass over their Estates during their Absence into the Hands of others to reap the Benefit thereof with this Condition that if they return home from these places where they Vowed to go they shall have them restored again with great profit Now as among all these Pilgrims chiefly these that have been oftnest at Mecha are by the Turks in greatest esteem and that Green Colour which only belongeth to the Priests to wear is the sooner allowed them whereby they may be known as