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A49620 The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant. Lassels, Richard, 1603?-1668.; S. W. (Simon Wilson) 1670 (1670) Wing L465; ESTC R2418 265,097 737

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Tombe in this Church aboue ground Indeed she deserues well to lye in S. Peters Church who deserued to be called S. Peters daughter and she deserued this surname for hauing defended the Church so galantly it is greatest conflict Against Henry the IV. Emp. and hauing endowed it with a good part of its Patrimony Her body was translated from Mantua hither in the yeare 1633. by the command of Pope Vrban the VIII Neare the Confession of S. Peter is an old brazen statue of S. Peter sitting with his hand vp as giuing his blessing and holding his right foot a little out to be kissed At first some wonder to see deuout people flocking thither and kissing the fotte of that statue and puting their heads vnder that foot when they haue done but when they are well informed that all this is done onely to testify that they submit themselues to the authority which was giuen by our Sauiour to S. Peter and his Successors they rest satisfyed Ouer the Holy water pot on the left hand as you enter into the Church is seen fastened to the wall an old inscription vpon a squar stone importing that that was the very stone vpon which the bodyes of S. Peter and S. Paul where diuided when half of their bodyes was buryed here and the other half in S. Pauls Church by S. Siluester As for the prime pictures that are in this Church they are these That of S. Michel in Mosaick work is of the designe of Caualier Gioseppe as also the designe of the Masaick worke in the Cupola That of S. Iohn Euangelist and S. Luke iust vnder the Cupola are of the hand of Giouanni de Vechi The picture where S. Peter cures the lame man is of the hand of Ludouico da Ciuoli That of the fall of Simon Magus is of the hand Vanni of Siena That where S. Peter is painted with Annanias dead before him is of the hand of Caualier Rancalli That of the Altar of S. Gregorie is of the hand of Andrea Sacco Romano That of the creation of the world is of Pietro Berettino de Cortona That of Medica fidei is of the hand of Lanfranco Hauing thus seen the Church I went to see the Sacristy of this Church where by expresse leaue from the Monsignor who hath the chief care as wel as the Keys of it I saw the Holy Relicks and neat Church plate belonging to this Church The Relicks are many and richly enchased in gold and syluer The Church plate is both plentifull and of great valew as many Chalices of pure gold set with iewels hugo syuer Candlestiks with a Crucifix of the same as heauy as a man can lift with a world of other such like plate But that which pleased me most here was the ancient Picture of S. Peter and S. Paul which saint Syluester shewed to Constantin the Great to confirme the truth of his Vision The Picture is very old yet the faces are perceuable and that is all It s set in a frame of syluer The history of it is both long and knowne if any man be ignorāt of it let him read it in Baronius There is also in the sayd Sacristy an other picture nayled high vpon the wall which was made by N. Carpi with his fingers insteed of a pencil Being now in the Sacristy I got leaue to go downe into the Grotte vnder this Church with a practical Clericus with a lighted torch to shew me and explicate vnto me the most considerable things that are there as the Tombe of S. Peter with an Altar ouer it at which any Bishop or priest may say Masse a world of ancient statues set in the low Chappels and in the wall of this Grotte which belonged to the old Church of S. Peter and shewing the antiquity of pictures in Churches the Tombe of the most honorable Churchman of our Nation Pope Adrian the IV the onely English Pope that euer was the Tombe of the Emperor Otho the second in a great porphiry shrine the Tombes of diuers other great Popes and Cardinals and in sine the tombestone of Charlotte of Luzignan Queen of Ierusalem Cyprus and Armenia who hauing been driuen out of her kingdome by her Bastard Brother came to Rome in Sixtus Quartus his time and there dyed She transfered before her death her right to the kingdome of Cyprus to the Duke of sauoy her brother in law which makes that Duke giue a close crowne ouer his armes and be stiled by his subjects Altezza Reale Royall Highnesse Hauing thus seen this Church both within and vnderground I was desirous to see it also aboue Ascending therefore by a fair staircase I arriued at the great terrasse ouer the Lodge and there saw the thirteen statues of our Sauiour and the twelue Apostles neare hand which seeme below little taller then the stature of our tallest men and yet here aboue are eighteen foot high There also I saw the seuerall little Cupolas which giue light to the side Chapels of this Church and looke like the yssue and spawne of the Great Cupola Then mounting a little higher I beheld the rare fabrick of the mother Cupola both within and without The staires to mount vp into it the double vault in it and stairs between the two vaults the lanterne vpon the Cupola the narrow stairs in one of the pillars of that Lanterne vp to the Ball lastly the straight neck of the passage into the Ball and the Ball it self are all worth particular obseruation as being the height of Architecture The Ball it self of brasse guilt is capable of thirty men though from below it lookes onely as big as twice a mans head We were eight in it at once and I am sure we could haue placed thrice as many more Vpon the round Ball is mounted a great Crosse of yron guilt to signifie that the Vertue of the Crosse by our Sauiours passion hath triumphed ouer the world of which this round Ball is the expresse emblem From this Cupol● we had a perfect View of Rome vnder vs and of all the Villas about it But nothing was so wonderfull as to see S. Peters Church and Pallace looke like a towne vnder vs which we knew to be but one Church and house You will wonder perchance too when you shall heare that this Church is the eight wonder of the world that the Pyramids of Egypt the walls of Babylon the Pharos Colossus c. were but heaps of stones compared to this fabrick that it hath put all antiquity to the blush and all posterity to a Non plus that its seueral parts are all incomparable Master-peeces its pictures all originals its statues perfect models That it hath a reuenue of aboue twenty thousand pounds a yeare onely for the fabrick that it hath cost till the yeare 1654 The accounts being then summed vp Forty millions of crownes that most of the Popes since Iulius the II his time and they
in coaches drawne by two Cowes yoaked together These will carry the Signora a pretty round trot vnto her Villa Ther afford her also a dish of their milk and after collation bring her home againe at night without spending a penny He that desires to know more of Piacenza let him read Vmberto Loccati Of Piacenza where Cornelius Musso Bishop of Bitonti a great Preacher and a Trent Father as also Ferrante Pallauicini Parma belongs also to the Duke of Parma of the house of Farnese This Dutchy was giuen to Pier Luigi Farnese by Paulus III vpon condition it should hold of the Pope and pay him yearly ten thowsand crownes It s worth to the Duke two hundred thousand crownes This towne of Parma is three miles in compasse hath the riuer Parma running through it ouer which is built a hāsome stone bridge The country round about the towne is most fertill and begets such credit to the Cheeses that Parmesan Cheeses are famous ouer all the world The Chief things so be seen in Parma are these The Dukes Pallace with the gardens fountains wildbeasts the admirable Theater to exhibite Operas in The exquisite Coaches of the Duke one whereof is all of beaten syluer with the Seats and crutains embrodered with gold and syluer an other so well guilt and adorned that it s almost as rich as the former lastly the stables where I saw horses sutable both in strenght and beauty to the foresayd● coaches Then I went to the Domo whose Cupola was painted by the rare hand of Corregio Lastly to The Capucins in whose Church lyes buryed my noble Heros Alexander Farnese Duke of Parma whom I cannot meet in this my voyage without a compliment He was the Third Duke of Parma but the Tenth worthy Indeed his leaping the first man into the Turks Galleys in the battle of Lepantho with Sword in hand and in the eighteenth yeare onely of his age was such a prognostik of his future worth his reduceing Flanders againe with the prodigious actions done by him at the takeing of Antweep was such a makeing good of the prognostick and his comeing into France in his slippers and Sedan to succour Rouen beseiged by Henry the IV was such a crowning of all his other actions that his history begets beleefe to Quintus Curtius and makes men beleeue that Alexanders can do any thing The Reuenues of this Prince are sayd to be six hundred thousand crownes a yeare Hee is now of the French faction and in all his territories hee can rayse 28000 men Here is an Academy of wits called the Innominati as they that had rather be wise then be talked of or famed for such This towne hath furnished Italy with two excellent Painters Corregio and Parmigiano He that would know the particular history of Parma let him read Bonauentura Arrighi From Parma we went to Regio a towne belonging to the Duke of Modena here is a neat Cathedral Church of which Church S. Prosper was Bishop Of this towne were these three learned men Guido Pancirola Cardinal Tosco and snarling Casteluetro Modena is the towne where the Duke keeps his Court. It s a hansome towne and by its high steeple shews it self to trauelers long before they come to it It hath also a strong Cittadel which lyeing flat and euen with the towne showeth the towne that indeed it can be euen with it whensoeuer in shall rebell The Pallace of the Duke hath some rooms in it as neat and ri●h as any I saw in Jtaly witness those Chambers hung round with the pictures of those of his family and wainscotted with great Looking Glasses and rich guilding This Duke is of the Family of Estè but not of the true line Wherfore for want of lawfull heirs male Ferrara and Commachio fell to the Church in Clement the VIII time and remain there euer since Of the true house of Estè was the braue Countesse Matilda the dry-Nurse as I may say of the Roman Church For it was she defended Gregory the VII against the Emperour Henry the VI and brought him to aknowlegde his fault and cry the Pope mercy It was she also that by Will and Testament left the Pope Parma Regio Mantua and Ferrara Hence Vrban the VIII out of gratitude to this Princesse caused her Statue and Tombe to be set vp S. Peters Church in Rome The will and Testament of this Princesse are kept in Lucca to his day Hard by Modena was fought the famous battle where Hirtius and Pansa being Consuls the Senate lost in them its authority Of Modena were these famous men in learning Cardinal Sadoletus Carolus Sigonius and Gabriel Falopius In Modena are made the best visards for mascarads and it s no small profit which they draw from this foolish commodity seing stultorum plena sunt omnia The Reuenues of this Duke are three hundred thousand crownes a yeare and he is now of the French faction He can rayse 30000 men From thence passing the riuer we came soone to Fort Vrban a Cittadel most regularly built by the command of Pope Vrban the VIII from whom it s called It s so strong that it is not afrayd to stand night and day alone in the fields and vpon the frontiers of the Popes Estate Passing from hence through Castel Franco anciently called Forum Gallorum we arriued betimes at Bologna Bologna is one of the greatest townes of Italy and one of the hansomest It s the second of the Popes Dominions and the Chief Vniuersity of Italy for Law Hence the Iurists say it is Musarum domus atque omnis nutricula Iuris and the very common coyne of the country tells you that Bononia docet It s named by the Common Prouerb Bologna la grassa because of the fertill foyle in which it stands to wit in the very end of Lombardy and the many springs which humect it from the Apennin hills at whose feet it stands This country was anciently called Felsina Gallia Cisalpina Gallia Togata to distinguish it from Gallia Braccata The country in France neare Narbonne And from Gallia Comata The Country in France called la Guienne In midling ages it was called Romagnola because Bologna Rauenna Cezena Forli Faenza and Imola stood constant to the Citty of Rome against the Lombards for a long time As for the towne of Bologna now it s excellently well built and for the most part vpon arches like the Couent Garden in London onely the pillars are round These Arches bring great conueniency to the inhabitants who can walk all the towne ouer coole and dry euen in Iuly and Ianuary It s fiue miles in compasse and an excellent sommer towne were it not that the ayre is not altogether so pure and the wines heating It s gouerned By a Legat a Latere sent hither by the Pope and in change it sends an Embassador